gringopete

Gregg

acerc

Post deleted by me.

acerc

Gregg, justre readthe above post where you answered my question. Is it to late to go back or just stay the course?

gringopete

Probably the Stihl oil is bottled for them.Stihl has great products so I would think that their oil is of veryhigh quality. I'm always interested to know who is the company private labeling,who is the source of the oil ?
It would be a great thread if someone could compile a list of lubricants for our hobby. List the type oil, weight, viscosity, thermal properties, ect. It would take a lot of research but all would benefit.
Who's up for the task?


Gregg

CannonFodder

My Feedback: (23)

That work has all been done and its posted here on RCU I just need to find it again and re-post the link.

gringopete

Thanks Mark

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

The source packager wouldn't be much help. I sold lube oil and gasoline blending equipment for many years to companies like Exxon, etc. and I can tell you the products they package for others typically are not the same as the stuff they sell under their own label. Each company has it's own formulations (and additives) and it's extremely easy for a producer to make dozens of custom blends for their customers, so you wouldn't gain anything by knowing the source. This is true for virtually all petroleum based blends including asphalt, jet fuel, gasoline, all lube products including greases, etc., etc.

CannonFodder

My Feedback: (23)

Okay for all interested here is the thread on oil test. Sthil ultra has been noted as one of the top 5 oils for our sport, I am still trying to find the other thread that gave information on this and ratings for oil. If I remember correctly Ultra is made by "Casteroil" for Sthil. I'll keep looking.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_26..._1/key_/tm.htm

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

I think you mean "Castrol"

CannonFodder

My Feedback: (23)

I knew that wasn't right. In another thread I was reading people really use caster oil mixed with 87 octane gas (not methanol) to run in their engines. My brain works in funny ways, glad you caught that.

acerc

Engine is doing great. Rpm's are slowly coming up. First run 6900 to today at 7250. Currently running a Xoar 17x8 thrust at 8lbs at 7250 rpm's, put on a 18x6 and thrust dropped to 7.5lbs with no niticeable change in rpm's. Which way prop wise do I go to get a little more thrust, not worried about top speed just how well it get's there.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Acerc

Hi when I got my 26 21/2 years ago I just used an ashless oil I had, don't remember the brand but had used it for years in my chain saw, anyway after the first gallon and a bit at 32/1 and std pump gass switxced to Klots and ave/gass 100, 50 to 1, as that is what I run in all of my G-62's and G-38 engine now has about 3 gallons thru it and I am turnning a 17 X 8 plastic thingy only becouse I had it, and it is turnning right at 8 K I did half to lean the Low needle about 1/16 of a trun. All I can say this is a sweet little engine and a real miser on fuel

Cheeers Bob T

acerc

Thought I'd share an event that took place over the weekend,
Got in a conversation with a fellow about the quality of my RCGF over his DA. After several minutes back and forth of his is a better quality than mine because they just cant make a engine that cheap and be good.My final coment was Hey " You go to home depot and buy a weed eater for a hundred bucks, run it wide open for several years before something goes and you throw it away and buy another. And you want to tell me they can't make a quality engine for less than 3-4 hundred bucks. Nothing else was said.


Maybe not word for word but you get the idea! And with the weed eater you get more than just the engine, Ha.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The RCGF quality debate has been active for a long time. Personally, I would not have another, and I've had 3. There are other products with higher levels of reliability and longevity for similar cost.

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

And ...... how high up on the wall did each of you reach in the pi**ing contest?

goirish

What brand would you get now.

acerc

My last piss on the pissing pole is this, I have DA, I have DLE and I have RCGF. As a certified small engine repairman I can see no difference in the three in regards to quality of manufacturing. All seem to use quality metals, quality cnc,quality ignitions and quality bearings. The only difference between them is more than likely operator error. Improper prop sizes creating to much load or overreving due to to little load. Improper oil/fuel ratios. Too lean and so on. I can tear up the so called best just as quick as the so called worst. And I can preserve the so called worst just as long as the so called best. It's all in perception, care and proper usage.

I'm done!

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I'm not partial to brand, only quality for the money spent. I believe in having something I can always depend on (I like to hover so that's kind of important) and it needs to last awhile. A long while.

So for me it's engines like DLE, DA, 3w, BME, MVVS, ZDZ, Taurus, Zenoah,and most all the older Sachs and Husky based engines. The only one on the list that I would consider "cheap" is the DLE and that's a comparitive term, not descriptive. All of the above easily manage to come out costing less in the long run than the ultra low dollar engines. I don't ever lose planes to engine flame outs, prop hub failures, crank failures, cylinder cracks, broken piston skirts, bearing failures, siezed engines, etc.

Pakratt

Perfectly put.... I respect this statement very highly..... I feel the same way.....

I've got homelite &, poulan self conversions, rcgf & crrc pro engines here, and I've had my bugs with any brand of engine...
sometimes *stuff* just happends....and then we work the bugs out and things go smooth......
after all, the inside of an engine is an absolute torture chamber.....

Now, as to the topic of this thread, RCGF engines.....

I have #2- 50cc's, a 62cc, and a 32cc all RCGF.... not one lick of trouble out of the engines
theirselves yet..... only had one ignition go bad after being about a year old... that was on the 62cc.....
but fixed that up with a new RCxl unit, and then back in action again.....

mesaflyer

Just a follow up to my engine. After I thought I had the reed valve problem fixed, the engine started to quit again. So I contacted Joe (captmicom) and sent him the engine. He can tell you what he found and what he did to the engine. I'm just going to say that I took it up for a couple flights yesterday, and it ran great, I think better than it ever did. Thanks Joe

Captmicom

You are welcome....!

acerc

Well after numerous test of different props, I'm settling on an 18x8. It has the best thrust at an appropriate rpm.
Close to 10lbs of thrust @ 7050rpm's. 87 octane with 40-1 synthetic oil. I'll keep it that way till I feel it's completely broke inthen go to 90 oct with 50-1 synthetic. Love this engine!

mesaflyer

What type/brand of prop are you using? I'm running a MAS 16x8 because I like the looks of it on the plane, and it (or me) has a tendency to nose over on landings, so the MAS lasts a lot longer than wood. I don't have thrust numbers, but it's turning at about 7400 rpm's. The plane fly's pretty fast, just takes about half a minute to get to full speed.

acerc

I'm useing a Xoar. The 16x8 had the thrust but at to high of an rpm. What I do is take the mfg's max rpm subtract 10%, my way of accounting for load, and prop for blade performance at that rpm. In my case top rpm is 8000,minus 10%= loaded rpm of 7200, with a small prop such as the 16x8 the rpm was 7600. In the air unloaded prop rpm would exceed max rpm which is'nt good for the engine.
Of course that's jost my opinion. Others may/will differ.

mesaflyer

Ok thanks.