dale691

I'm hoping to put a canister muffler on mine now and was wondering if you guys know, will the mufflers that suit the DA/DL fit on the RCGF 50cc?

Mr.FiberOptic

did you see the RCGF canister muffler.

http://www.zrcgf.com/store/Results.cfm?category=6

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

They should fit, the RCGF can fits the DL/DA so the opposite should work as well.[8D]

dale691

Thanks for that guys, the canister from RCGF looks like the ticket

Cheers

Mr.FiberOptic

i wonder if they have it on the australian rcgf distributor site?

what was your site again aussiesteve and do you have the cannister listed?

cool, looks like my RCGF 62cc is on it's way. can't wait. got my ZOAR 22x8 prop from TBM today and the spinner from TBM will be here shortly.

aussiesteve

yes, I don't have them on the site (Need to add a lot of the products) but I do have them.

[link]http://www.ydmodels.com.au[/link]

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Please don't ask our vendors about their current on hand inventory or prices. They are not allowed to use the forums for this and it is tempting for them to want to be helpful when people ask instead of either contracting them via PMs or clicking on their websites.

Mr.FiberOptic

sorry for getting you in trouble Steve

aussiesteve

Mei Wen Ti - Su Bian na xie (La Ji jian su qi)

AKA - No Worries Mate - up to them.

VeeAte

Got a question about mounting the EI unit.

Is it possible to dismantle the plug lead so that the electronic ignition unit can be mounted inside the fuse? So I can thread the lead through a hole in the fuse then re-assemble the plug boot etc. Dont want to cut a huge hole in the fuse to fit the boot etc through.

Or is it better to mount the unit on the firewall for cooling or other purposes?

I run a 2.4Ghz system so from what I have read I shouldnt have a problem with interference with the EI inside the fuse. I will still keep it as far away from the RX as I can.

Also I dont have a tacho. Can the engine still be run in without one?
Or am I better buying one so I can maintain 2,500rpm as stated in the manual. For 2 hours! Might have to rig up a 5L container of fuel for that mission

Or is there a better way to run these engines in?
The topic of running in glow engines has been discussed many times here on RCU. Most people having their own method of running glow engines in it would seem.
Just wondered if it was the same with the gassers?

HELLFIRE989

Does anyone know the dimensions of the new rear carb 20cc ... I have one ordered for my Corsair but just curious if it would fit well in the Top Flight P-51 .60 I have coming. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Where did you order it from? I dont see it on their web site.
Edwin

Mr.FiberOptic

on this part of your question i think just running a few tanks in it to equal a total of 2 hours accumulated might do. some of the breakin is done in the air i think.

you probably want to run at the low rpm and just increase rpm for a short time and lower it again for a bit then increase for a short time then back to low rpm. just dont keep it at high rpm for long while breakin.

glow engines need break in on the ground first gasser's can do a short break in on ground for 20 minutes at 2,500 rpm and finish break-in in flight about 2 gallons of fuel should do it.

go here and read the manual for the gasser you have http://www.zrcgf.com/pages/manuals.cfm

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Tune it on the ground an go fly. It's senseless to do extended ground or bench running for a break in. As for a tach, can you tell if the plane is idling low enough not to roll away and if it sounds like peak rpm at full throttle? I bet you could with a glow engine so what makes a gasser any different?

The last time you bought a gas lawn mower, edger, weed eater, roto tiller, or chain saw did you do a prolonged break in with a special oil before you did the yard work? Plane engines aren't any different except you have to tune them.

You newbies are treating these things like they're a delicate scientific instrument or something. It's just an engine for crissakes.

Mr.FiberOptic

right, i will just warm it up for 20 minutes and fly it.

VeeAte

Thanks for the input Tired Old Man and MrFibreOptic.

All the guys at our club who run 4 stroke glow engines do just what you said TOM.
Tune it on the ground and fly it.
They all say to take it easy for a few tanks and run it on the rich side. After a gallon or two they lean them for max performance.

I was hoping I could do the same with the gasser.

My weed eater was worked hard from day one and I never had a problem with it

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Don't run a gasser "on the rich side". If you peak it and then come down (okay a bit rich ) only about 100 rpm that's all the more rich you should get.

AJsToyz

I better get the leaf blower off the break in bench...... [X(] that was a waste of a gallon of gas.....

lill will

you know i was woundering that too. i just bought a brandnew huskavana chainsaw and i ask the guy what do you run the mix at and how long before i can go and chop some big trees down he look at me strange and said, man you get it cranking and rip the bark of any tree you want. so my question is why if this are weed eater to the third power motors do we have to break them him so gently?

VeeAte

I am not sure. But guessing its because a chainsaw usually runs flat out its entire life. Perhaps running in the 2 stroke gassers as we do makes them transition better and perhaps longer engine life?

Someone will correct me I am sure

flatspinjim

My Feedback: (3)

Funny thing too, my chainsaw has never had a midrange burble!

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Quite a thread here. I have read through most of the 94 pages and it look like the RCGF engines are quite good for the price.
It still leaves me somewhat confused:

1. There seem to be different models (RCGF - Aerovate, etc)? Where does this fit in?
2. I'm going to try out one of those engines in my Seagull Super Decathlon 78.7" span, 4.8Hg weight (11 lbs). The kit calls for a 120 four stroke. Would the 20cc or the 26cc be the better option?

Wolf_Pack

Hi gents
Ive installed the engine and ignition (20cc) on the plane , im not sure about the throttle arm on the engine. The spring seems to be to stiff for the servo. It moving alright but im getting alot of buzzing from the servo. Am i missing something else I should know. I pretty much have the same set up as Pit ( thank you) except fot tha ball links , pick them up tommrow when HS opens. The push rod is clear no rubbing. Thanks

buck1856

My Feedback: (49)

Because the engine manufacturers want to make sure you dont hurt them any for the first gallon.Theyd have to replace a lot of engines if they just said to lean em out and go fly.There would be a lot of new peolpe burning up engines real fast.
Heres a little story.I was at an echo dealer picking up some parts for my conversion engine.So im standing there waiting for my parts.
In comes a customer with a brand new trimmer in the box,bought from somewhere else.
Asks the mechanic how to break it in or would he do it.
The mechanic says he will do it for $40.00 service charge.
The guy says ok.So mechanic pulls trimmer out of box.Looks around for gas can.[None specialy marked for breakin.]Fills it up.
Choke,pull start,fires up.Runs it up to full throttle,then back down,then up,ect...
Shuts down,walsk away,gets soda,bull&^%$s with customer,ect...
Picks up trimmer,starts up,revs up.Now its starting to pick up speed as the engine is breaking in.Gooses it a couple more times,ect...
Turns off,sets down,and tells the customer its broke in.Then asks for his $40.00.[for 10 minutes of work].
NOW,dont go do this to your brand new engine,burn it up,then say i said its ok.
I just had to say this because i thought it was ammusing at the time because im a mechanic.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Yard tool engines have a fan built onto the front of the engine (at the magneto) that directs an adequate amount of air all the time over the engine. We do not. We depend on the propeller to force air through the engine, which it really does not do very well. Engine baffling does a much better job of airflow when we've paid attention to hot air exhaust area and low pressure creation to draw air through the engine. Most of you will fail to do any of that. Especially those that are looking to maintain a tightly cowled engine. You will know who those people are by the way their engines start and run on the ground nicely but afyter a few minutes of level flight seem to lose power and have weak compression after a few dozen flights.

Yard tool engines also usually have carb needles set on the rich side of power settings, running a little extra cool fuel through the engine at 32-1 mix ratios. We typically are not running at 32-1.

What's good for any gas engines is a nice process that both seats the rings and melds the metalurgy of the original metal casting process. The heating and cooling cycles of normal flying handles all of this if attention is paid to avoiding a lot of long duration vertical flying, along with avoiding hovering and torque rolling the first few tanks of gas. Over heating is terrible on an engine and it's very easy for some of us to do using props that may be large enough to inflict a greater load on an engine that a comparable yard cutting implement would have presented.

Break in requires that nothing special be done to execute the process other than avoiding over working/heating the engine. Good fun flying breaks an engine in about the safest and fastest way around. If the engine is sized appropriately to the airframe it will likely not require that it be run at more than 50 or 60% power most of the time unless pulling for altitude. Most 3d stuff would be done at less that 1/2 throttle. So the engines are never working hard.