I have a XYZ 26cc on EI and The install puts the ignition module on the outside on the the firewall. The battery is located inside but is forward of the receiver by 9-10 inches. The only thing that even comes close to the ignition battery is the throttle servo. The throttle linkage is non-conductive save for the metal threaded ends on the ny-rod. With this installation I should not get any interefernce but when I crank up I am okay at idle but anything above idle the throttle servo starts glitching. The control surfaces are not affected and operate normally. I have changed out the throttle servo but still get the same results. The sparkplug is a NGK CM6 and is a resistor plug. The plug wire comes shielded and is not touching anything else metal going up to the plug. I've thought about relocating the throttle servo further back in the fuse, or shielding the ignition battery and wires with wrap-around shileding but don't have a clue if that will work. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

Happy Flying!

Loopman

If you have metal ends on the Nyrod you might be getting RF from the connection at the carb.....the rubing (friction) of the metal on the carb arm can cause RF

Any vibration can cause interference . Check the prop balance and check the muffler for tightness . Dont use a gasket on the muffler use high temp sealer and be sure to use locktite on the bolts . If no balance or looseness issues are found replace the servo extension lead with a heavier gauge extension . If still no success replace the servo itself . Sometimes the pots get sensitive and will cause the servo to chatter .

AirWizard
Nope, I have a nylon ball link at the carb end.
Loopman

Had the same problem with a set up I had, Moved the throttle servo back 4" and the problem went away, Still don't know why ??

Milton

I think your prolly getting a direct hit off the ign battery to your throttle servo, so the obvious thing is to move one or the other. Before going to alot of work to remount the servo, just remove the battery and use a longer extension and see if that helps. Don't forget the switch charge jacks either , if they cross paths it can cause all sorts of trouble, providing you have a ign switch.

Check to be sure your plug cap is firmly and completely into position on the plug. A poorly grounded ignition would be a very likely cause for this. Some caps can become damaged from several poor installs/uninstalls....we start up the engines at night, and kill the lights to make sure the spark is only going where its supposed to, instead of anywhere that is visible around the cap...

The CM-6 is NOT A RESISTOR PLUG.
Make sure that the cap is fitting tight and is past the hex of the plug.

WOW I thought the NGK's were resistor type plugs, my mistake. Is there a resistor type for this engine that would be the equivalent of the NGK?

Your XYZ engine comes with a shielded ignition so no need for a resistor type plug, the NGK CM6 will do just fine. Just ensure as TKG and Chad advised that the plug cap is pushed ALL the way on.

Karol