hyflyer9

Hi Folks
I see that Syssa has finally come out with a new muffler set up for the 30cc fully cnc machined and a good deal for replacing the old one .see the Syssa web site link below.
www.syssaaircraft.net/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp

Joystick TX

Thanks for the notice on the new muffler; good to know.

I know it seems like it took a long time to get this muffler out, but there is a lot of blood, sweat, and tears that goes into getting a product from design to production. The last thing you want to do is to release a product that creates more problems. Been there, done that.

Makes a great engine even better. Good job Todd!

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

I see it says "This muffler is $21 if replacing a "uncrashed" stock muffler." Does the old one have to be sent back???

Joystick TX

It sounds like it. (No pun intended.)

I hear the new mufflersounds a little quieter. (Pun intended.)

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I was hoping for something a little more conventional - one you wouldn't have to R&R all those backing plate screws, and try to keep that plate sealed? I'm pretty dissappointed actually.

I think I'll just convert the one I have.... unless I can find a different manf's muffler with a similar bolt pattern.

Slow and Steady

I tried to order one, but could not complete the check out and it wouldn't acknowledge the discount code. I guess the Syssa engine and Funtana will be sitting on the bench for a while yet. To bad; it was a nice combination when it was working.

MsgtRob

Just do the Jostick muffler mod, It's not hard to do and still holding tight. Although.... I feel those of us with the originals should have them replaced at no charge....I'll most likely just mod the other two and save myself $42.

Good luck

JohnB96041

Placed my order earlier this evening and it went through like a dream. My muffler is not loose yet, so ordered a new one just to have on hand.

Slow and Steady

My order also went through on the second attempt and I look forward to trying it out. It looks like it is very well made.

Joystick TX

Good news, I hope. If you want to use the tone inserts from your old muffler, they will fit in the new one. You can can also use standard "C-Clips", you don't need the special ones like on the old style muffer.

JohnB96041

Question: I have never removed the tone inserts on my engine. What can I expect if they are removed? I know it will be louder.

Joystick TX

You may get a slight (up to 300 rpm) increase on the old style muffler if you remove the tone inserts.

JohnB96041

OK....don't need more rpm's. SAP 180 is on a Funtana 125. Normally fly at half throttle. Only full throttle on up lines, loops etc. I will leave them in for now.
Thanks.

opjose

I'm seeing closer to 600 rpm ( which IMHO is not slight ), but then I did tune the engine without the inserts in place.... so you may do better if you did the opposite.

Joystick TX

I'm not sure what you mean. It sounds like you had the inserts in, but did not tune the engine. Then you took them out, tuned the engine and got a 600 rpm increase.

What I am talking about is to have the tone inserts in place, tune the engine for max rpm, then take them out and re-tune the engine for max rpm.

hyflyer9

Hi Folks.
I am just wondering how i can check the engine timing to make sure it is correct. a couple of daysago i wanted to get it upand running and get it tuned a little better and also to give it a little more run time andthe engine seemed to take a while to get up to full throttle and top RPM and it also started to surge up and down a lotat idle and i could not get it to run properly and after i did some checking i found that the stater or pick up screw's had vibrated loose . I was able to get them tight again while adding some lock tight to make sure they don't come loose again but i am a little worried that the timing may be out a little .
Thanks a bunch.

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

what spark plug are people using in this motor, Todd has many on his site, which on eis the correct plug?
Mine runs like crap, I got it new/used so it laid on the bench for 26 month b4 I got it, should I rebuild the carb?
I can not get it to idle
klotz oil 50:1 reg. gas

opjose

Re: Plug - CM-6 if I remember correctly.

Remember that the idle is NOT controlled by either needle valve.

It is controlled by the float needle inside the carb itself, and this is not adjustable.

If you are having idling problems and have eliminated everything else, then a rebuild of the carb may help.

Get a carb rebuild kit, and pay attention to the state of the imbedded fuel filter. If it is full of debris it may affect idle.

Given that the engine laid on the bench the carb is probablly gummed up and the rubber bits deteriorated too... also leading to a rebuild.

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

good points. I belive it was kept dry (no fuel) in it on the self. I know its 2 years old by the serial number.
I had to wet the carb to get it to prime with the use of a hobbico torq. master 180/4 cell lipo
the elec starter is the only way I can get it to start.

when starting it runs for 3 seconds and quits, I choke it, it will not pop, off choke it wil pop and quit and then start again it will run 3 seconds. over and over
3/4 throttle the carb and it will start and run real ruff until it burns the excess fuel.
I have the low speed at 1.25 turns out, any more out than that it will not start and floods

opjose

This will help you out...

[link=http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm]Tune Up Instructions[/link]

hobby_man

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks, I know all of this already.

1 key point I read and I argue this with the club members, this article says to tune the WARM engine WHILE RUNNING, I agree, the guys in the club say to turn a screw and then try running it, this will take until H freezes.

If I turn H screw it effect L screw! its that simple, the motor has to be running in order to tune it! I do not tune my hedge trimmer, chains saw, ice drill, leaf blower, snowmobile, by adjusting the carb and then starting it.

opjose

In your case you have a bigger problem with the idle that needs to be taken care of with the rebuild FIRST...

As the article says and I mentioned, the cause of most idle problems is debris in the imbedded fuel filter, that you'll end up cleaning during the rebuild.

I've "fixed" engines by doing nothing more than cleaning out that filter.

Once you have the engine starting and idling you can adjust the HS needle and the LS needle for optimal speed and transitions.

If you can safely tune while the engine is running, so much the better.

On many planes I'm forced to set the needles to factory settings, warm up the engine, then shut off, adjust, restart, adjust, etc... tedious... but due to safety/cowling constraints.

On my Syssa I fortunately did NOT have to resort to that because the carb was accessible...

Syssa Pilot

My Feedback: (7)

I also have an Eindecker Syssa. Crashes second flight, too navese heavy. Just finished rebuilding it.

opjose

Mine is actually the Giant Big Stik with a faux cowl.

I had to add weight to the nose by putting all of my battery packs forward.

I put a 3800mAH flight pack and a 2400mAh ignition pack, plus the CDI, etc... just aft of the firewall.

It flies great and the Syssa gives it plenty of power.

Yours look quite scale and nice!

Slow and Steady

Has anyone tried a DLE 30 carb on the Syssa?