SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
#5052
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I also ordered the new muffler approximately 3 weeks ago and it was delivered this past Thursday. Looks to be very well made. My engine starts up without trouble and has great transition. Hopefully the new muffler will resolve the loosening issue. I have to say Syssa is not the only engine I know of that has this issue. The muffler on my DLE 55 has been a challenge as of late as is the one on a DLE 111 a friend of mine has. The new muffler should be easier to tighten and I am optomistic. While I can sympathize with the frustration expressed by some here, I have to say that over the last 2 plus years, Todd has serviced my engine at least 3 times without charge, while providing a new muffler on each occassion, in addition to other free upgrades, even though some of the issues have been due to landing gear failure/pilot error. I am sure I am not the only one who still holds him in high regard. Hopefully he will be able to resolve the concerns recently noted.
#5053
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady
I also ordered the new muffler approximately 3 weeks ago and it was delivered this past Thursday. Looks to be very well made. My engine starts up without trouble and has great transition. Hopefully the new muffler will resolve the loosening issue. I have to say Syssa is not the only engine I know of that has this issue. The muffler on my DLE 55 has been a challenge as of late as is the one on a DLE 111 a friend of mine has. The new muffler should be easier to tighten and I am optomistic. While I can sympathize with the frustration expressed by some here, I have to say that over the last 2 plus years, Todd has serviced my engine at least 3 times without charge, while providing a new muffler on each occassion, in addition to other free upgrades, even though some of the issues have been due to landing gear failure/pilot error. I am sure I am not the only one who still holds him in high regard. Hopefully he will be able to resolve the concerns recently noted.
I also ordered the new muffler approximately 3 weeks ago and it was delivered this past Thursday. Looks to be very well made. My engine starts up without trouble and has great transition. Hopefully the new muffler will resolve the loosening issue. I have to say Syssa is not the only engine I know of that has this issue. The muffler on my DLE 55 has been a challenge as of late as is the one on a DLE 111 a friend of mine has. The new muffler should be easier to tighten and I am optomistic. While I can sympathize with the frustration expressed by some here, I have to say that over the last 2 plus years, Todd has serviced my engine at least 3 times without charge, while providing a new muffler on each occassion, in addition to other free upgrades, even though some of the issues have been due to landing gear failure/pilot error. I am sure I am not the only one who still holds him in high regard. Hopefully he will be able to resolve the concerns recently noted.
#5055
Senior Member
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Speedy-Gonzales
BTW....I have switched to AVGAS A100 and will not go back to pump gas. Stricter quality standards with controlled moisture content and no ethanol. There is a noticeable difference from my observations.
BTW....I have switched to AVGAS A100 and will not go back to pump gas. Stricter quality standards with controlled moisture content and no ethanol. There is a noticeable difference from my observations.
I encountered two small problems, both handled quickly by Todd....engine one had a cranky carb originally; it was replaced, free. Also engine one had a front bearing leak at 122 flights; it was replaced, free. Very early on, I also experienced loose headers (piped set-up). Once I started adding NordLoc washers under the exhaust bolts and sealed with Ultra Copper, that problem went away...........Al in all, a terrific little engine!!
#5057
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: bigwes1962
can anyone tell me the thread size on the syssa so i can get a spinner nut.....thanks
can anyone tell me the thread size on the syssa so i can get a spinner nut.....thanks
#5061
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: bipeflr
Got E mail Sat. said he thought he had shipped my eng. Received E mail this morning with tracking # Maybe squeaky gets the oil....Jim
Got E mail Sat. said he thought he had shipped my eng. Received E mail this morning with tracking # Maybe squeaky gets the oil....Jim
#5063
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: bipeflr
And Then...And Then.... MY ENGINE WAS IN THE AFTERNOON MAIL......Jim
And Then...And Then.... MY ENGINE WAS IN THE AFTERNOON MAIL......Jim
Hope your engine break-in goes well.
I have reallyenjoyed having this engine, after all the hours I have on it now, it does not look like a work of art anymore, but it sure runs great.
#5064
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: SIMCO
Pair of Syssa's right out of the box with little run in time and quick tune. Turning 16x10 MAS.
Pair of Syssa's right out of the box with little run in time and quick tune. Turning 16x10 MAS.
We live in the same city, but I don't recognize the flying field. I fly from GSWAM, where do you fly from?
#5067
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
No, Steve I havent I dont have a test stand but I'm going to hobby shop this afternoon to purchase a Rascal 110. This is the plane I want and wasnt going to buy plane until I had the engine. Didn't want to cut up the cowl to fit another engine. I have a 1/4 scale Stampe bipe but ruined the appearance by chopping the side out of the cowl for the muffler on a DLE 30.......Jim
#5068
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: hobby_man
I read the manual did all this, will not start very well. Will some times run a few reves after spinning it with an electric starter, once it does start, cant get it to run good enough to fly it, unit will not idle
my weed trimmer, chain saw and leaf blower on their worst days perform better that this motor.
ORIGINAL: JohnB96041
From the manual:1. To Set the low needle:
A. Start at 1.5 turns out
B. Run engine at idle
C. Lean needle until engine stumbles on acceleration
D. Richen needle 1/8 turn.
2. To Set the high needle:
A. Start at 2 turns out.
B. Run engine to full throttle
C. Lean high needle until engine reaches peak rpm
D. Richen needle max of 1/8 turn (when ambient
temperature is warmer than 85F (29.5 C) degrees
richen up to ¼ turn past peak if necessary
3. To Test adjustments:
A. Run engine at idle for 10 seconds
B. Check throttle response – if engine sags or
stalls upon acceleration, richen low needle
C. Run engine at full throttle for 5 seconds – if
engine “sags†(rpm decreases), richen high needle
From the manual:1. To Set the low needle:
A. Start at 1.5 turns out
B. Run engine at idle
C. Lean needle until engine stumbles on acceleration
D. Richen needle 1/8 turn.
2. To Set the high needle:
A. Start at 2 turns out.
B. Run engine to full throttle
C. Lean high needle until engine reaches peak rpm
D. Richen needle max of 1/8 turn (when ambient
temperature is warmer than 85F (29.5 C) degrees
richen up to ¼ turn past peak if necessary
3. To Test adjustments:
A. Run engine at idle for 10 seconds
B. Check throttle response – if engine sags or
stalls upon acceleration, richen low needle
C. Run engine at full throttle for 5 seconds – if
engine “sags†(rpm decreases), richen high needle
I read the manual did all this, will not start very well. Will some times run a few reves after spinning it with an electric starter, once it does start, cant get it to run good enough to fly it, unit will not idle
my weed trimmer, chain saw and leaf blower on their worst days perform better that this motor.
Plane runs great in the garage.
Took the plane to the field, it ran great on the ground.
In the air high speed was good, low speed was a nightmare, it would not idle down and keep running, spit sputter, rev up rev down, the motor shut down and I dead stick landed it in the beans.
Got the plane back to the pits and readjusted the L in out until I was back to the original setting. Taxied the plane all over the runway and back and forth, runs great.
Refuel the plane and take off, motor is running good at high and low speeds, after 15 minutes of flying, time to land, throttle the engine down, it burps spits sputters , shuts down while turning base.
plane tip stalls in the 15 mph wind, spins into the ground, wing hits first and the Nemisis is doing cartwheel's over the beans, end of plane! Brand new plane this year, it was my winter project.
I have 6 months into trying to get this motor to run, who wants it? I'm moving on.
#5070
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: hobby_man
[/quote]
I'm confused, it sounds like you bought a new carb and put it on the engine, before you checked filter screen on theold carb. The carb filter screen being blocked is one of the major problems with gas engines, all brands,and it is usally the first thing to be checked if an engine is running badly and won't respond to adjustments. Also, did you check the filter screen on the new carb after it shut down? It sounds like you may just have problems with fuel contamination, especially since the engine ran okay on the ground and also in the air for a while.
#5071
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
My Rascal 110 wont be in for a week or so. Hobby shop had to order it so I mounted the engine in my hanger 9 extra 260. It stqarted and idels fine and after about 15 min. of 2500 to 5000 rpm I ran it up to 7800 and havent adjusted the needels yet. After getting rascal I will fly it easy for a while. I'm using a Xoar 18/6 and it seems to respond to throttle great.......Jim
#5072
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Those initial needle adjustments are designed to be close enough to start it. Beyond that, if it's running the way you like, it's because you're lucky. It's not a fair assumption to believe that engine has been tuned to YOUR needs. You need to do that yourself.
#5073
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
correct, I got a NEW carb before I even looked at the old carb. I do not have the tool for setting the arm on the needle assemble and I do not have the pressure gauge for checking the pop off pressure. These Walbro carbs are simple and they are delicate to adjust.
Since I had to remove the carb to clean it I had Syssa sell me a new carb.
I have a fuel filer before the engine and 2 filters on my 1 gallon gas can, 1 in the can and one at the end of the fill hose.
I think the cowl is creating positive pressure and this is messing with the diaphram on the carb.
I do have the engine mounted sideways, so the H and L secrew are on the bottom of the plane, would this mounting effect it?
I will mount the engine on a stand and run it or send it back to Syssa, maybe they can use the parts. I lost a plane over the engine, I got 13 flights on it and not once did I land the plane with the engine running.
Since I had to remove the carb to clean it I had Syssa sell me a new carb.
I have a fuel filer before the engine and 2 filters on my 1 gallon gas can, 1 in the can and one at the end of the fill hose.
I think the cowl is creating positive pressure and this is messing with the diaphram on the carb.
I do have the engine mounted sideways, so the H and L secrew are on the bottom of the plane, would this mounting effect it?
I will mount the engine on a stand and run it or send it back to Syssa, maybe they can use the parts. I lost a plane over the engine, I got 13 flights on it and not once did I land the plane with the engine running.
#5074
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I would still check the filter screenin the carb. That is quick and easy to do. That carb filter cantrap things the others miss.
If you have had that many deadstick landings there is something wrong for sure. It could be pressure in the cowl or not enough cooling air. Both of those are easy to fix.It is a good idea toleave the cowl off and see how the engine runs.
The engine should run okay in any position.
You should not need to adjust the arm on the carb or check the pop off pressure, problems with those are way down on the list of probable causes. It would be best to leave those adjustments to an expert.
If you have had that many deadstick landings there is something wrong for sure. It could be pressure in the cowl or not enough cooling air. Both of those are easy to fix.It is a good idea toleave the cowl off and see how the engine runs.
The engine should run okay in any position.
You should not need to adjust the arm on the carb or check the pop off pressure, problems with those are way down on the list of probable causes. It would be best to leave those adjustments to an expert.
#5075
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Some things my dad taught me. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Fix one problem at a time so you can stop fixing when it is fixed and you don't break anything else while you're fixing what broke.