AGNI 5

Thanks guys. Tried 18*x6 wood and APC and did not like. I am running a Hawk C1.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

I use the Vess 18.5 x 5.5 from Syssa on 3 of my engines. One of them is on a Super Sportster, one on a MXS-R and another on a scratch built Giant Tiger 2. I have a Mezlik 18x10 carbon prop on an RCGuys Cessna 150 and it really hauls the mail. It may be a little heavy, but it sure flies that plane with authority and I've not had any heating problems even with the enclosed cowl.

captinjohn

RiverLarry, this is one bad winter here in Mich. Should be in Florida......

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

We have some frost here and there this morning, but it will likely be 70 this afternoon. Terrible I say, just terrible!

Joystick TX

We have all sorts of weather here in TX. I flew Friday AM, winds were 1-2 mph, temp was 80 degrees, then the temp took a drop of almost 60 degrees. Today, winds are 19-25, temp is 29. I'm hibernating for a couple of days. Should be back to spring like weather next week. The good part is that we can fly all year long, just not every day.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

I was having a problem with one of my engines drawing fuel. Couldn't figure it out. Took the carb off, stripped it down, cleaned all the orifices, and the screen and blew it out with WD-40 and then compressed air. Clean as it can be. Still no luck. Re-worked the entire fuel system - changed the filter, replaced the lines inside the tank (where I did find a problem), Still no luck. As I was replacing the carb the 3rd time, I noticed that there is small groove cut into the body of the bolt that holds the carb to the manifold. The choke plate is supposed to fit in that groove when it's closed. hmmmmmm. Mounted the engine back in the plane hooked everything up and stuck my finger behind the carb and pushed the choke plate into the groove. Guess what?!?! draws fuel with only 2 flips of the prop. Outside the groove, nothing. Now I'm contemplating a modification to the bolt. I want to cut the groove about 1/32 deeper than it is now, and then machine a 45 degree angle cut that extends about 1/16th of an inch into the body of the bolt to act as a guide for the choke plate to follow. Any thoughts about this??
SS

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Any change that would hold the Syssa improvised choke plate firmly closed would be an improvement. When I had a Syssa, I changed the carb out for one that had a real choke plate ... problem solved.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

That was my first choice, but not being able to source one locally, I think I'm going to try this mod.

JeffinTD

I'd say to for it. I had to dink with my linkage to keep it from pulling the choke shudder away from the carb body. Anything that could make that choke plate stay flat and tight against the carb would be a plus.

JohnB96041

I ordered a replacement carb from SYSSA Aircraft Performance via the internet and had it in 2 weeks. It has the butterfly choke plate and works great. Fast order. Total was $34.00 including shipping.

RCAddiction

My Feedback: (87)

I did the same and am now able to hand start my Syssa. The Tillotson replacement carb works fine and is a drop in replacement for the original Walbro with the sliding plate choke.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

I just emailed Todd. I had sent him one of my engines that has the old muffler to be updated. I mentioned how bad I hated the choke and how much trouble I was having with it. Changing all 4 carbs. Problem about to be resolved. BTW, I cut the groove a little deeper in the bolt. Doesn't help that much. If the choke plate gets in the groove it has a better seal, but still doesn't work right. Channing the carb seems to be the best solution. AND, FINALLY, I can't say enough about the improved customer service. Several of us have commented in the past about the lack of customer support. I think its appropriate now to comment on how much improved it is. Thank you, Todd!!

Murphey

My Feedback: (11)

I agree with Red Raider. The service I received was superb. I purchased a SAP180 back when this thread was started. I have read about the mechanical issues some were having, but I never experienced any trouble. The engine performed perfectly. At about 53 hours run time, however, I did notice an unusual noise...turns out the con rod bearing was a bit loose. Called Todd (and he answered the phone), told him the issues and he said send it in. I was concerned that it would be out all flying season but he said he would turn it around in 2-3 days...so off it went. He received the engine on Tuesday, Joe called me on Wednesday morning, told me what they had done to the engine (V2 crank case, all new bearings, new piston/conn rod, new Tillotson carb and V2 muffler) and all for a VERY reasonable price. But better than the price, it was shipping that day for 2 day delivery...I had the engine on Friday. How could anyone ask for better service than that.

I originally purchased the engine that had basically no track record primarily for 2 reasons...made in the USA and I could speak directly to Todd...seems after all this time...that's still the case! So kudos to Todd and his crew!

I am a happy customer!

M

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

I'm a happy customer too. Buy American every chance you get.

FlymoreRC

Here's an update on getting RPM signal feed from Syssa Ignition to Spectrum TM1000 telemetry.

Evolution has come out with an electronic connection for their engines, that works with the Syssa engine. It is EVOA107, and sells on HH for about $18.
Bench testing shows that it works fine.

As a side note, if you have a DLE engine, you can run a single wire lead from the ignition tachometer lead sensor wire to the TM1000.

Michael

AGNI 5

New type muffler and not able to keep on the engine even for one flight . One last try.Copper filled sealant, nord locks, and safety wire the bolts . That does not work then the engine will be retired. Yes the prop is balanced. I will be using the old again this time. and I paid for the the new muffler.

JohnB96041

Really strange. I have the original muffler on my Syssa 30cc engine and it is five years old with many, many hours of running. Got the new style of carb this summer. Did not remove the original muffler for the replacement of the carb. Still tight and no leaks. It is on a Funtana 125.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

I took my Tiger III out this weekend and couldn't get the engine to run. I just got it back with the new Tillotson carb on it. Anyone know what the initial settings are for this carb??

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

Originally I bought Todd sap ultra ibec for a new wildhare 260 I bought using a dle 30ci finally am getting to fly it and was just visiting my buddy back home who recommended the ibex in the first place.he was using a dual switch and 2 batteries.now i am unsure or clear as to which way to go.I am using a futaba super 8 tx.my plane has split elevators so my ports get filled up fast.i say this because one open channel is for my ibec.i would likely have to y harness something to open a second battery for the redundancy.intially I thought I had a good simple set up as the ibec has a built in regulator for the life batteries I plan to use.can I use a second battery with the ibec already installed? Should I get another igntion with onto kill switch and go with a miracle 2 switch install for redunancy.i am totally confused at this point. I am gathering that with the ibec should the igntion quit it isolates the rx so it can function? can someone help me understand as i am afraid to fly .

JeffinTD

Having two reciever batteries and two switches isn't a bad idea IMHO. It could be done with a heavy duty Y on the ignition kill, or whatever, if you don't have an extra port.

If you run an IBEC, or if you don't and run a seperate ignition battery and switch, I'd still want two batteries and switches on the reciever, and I'd still want a way to kill the ignition from the transmitter (opto kill)... So to me things are just simpler with an IBEC and no ignition battery to deal with.

IMHO there is no one right way, and reasonable minds can differ, though.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Re: the second switch/battery?

There's an easy way to get the redundancy of dual switches, as well as extra amperage for HD digital servos. You can use a second battery if you like, or use a second lead coming from a single (A123) battery. Second lead/battery power runs through the second switch to a Y harness located on the rudder servo. This supplies the switch redundancy a lot of us are looking for, limits the number of required channels as much as possible, supplies a straight shot to the battery for rudder servo power (extra amperage), and can back feed the entire receiver buss with power/extra amperage as necessary. The extra weight of a Y harness and extra switch has so many upsides to it, I run this setup on all my gassers, right down to the Evo 10.

JeffinTD

Yeah, the above suggestion makes a lot of sense, especially for a 30cc aerobat.

IMHO today's batteries are extremely reliable and the switch and wiring are more likely to be a problem, as could trying to feed the reciever buss and multiple fairly high torque digital servos through a single 22 ga wire and servo type connector.

bob418

My Feedback: (4)

Anyone looking for a used Syssa? http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...itemId=1030559

flyalot

My Feedback: (63)

Syssa where are you? Your web page is gone!

opjose

I was wondering the same thing.

I thought that maybe my DNS queries were not resolving correctly, but if you see the same thing... that doesn't bode well.