Howard

My Feedback: (55)

I am somewhat confused by the new pinned prop hub on the SAP 180. I just received my new SAP180 that is now mounted on the front of a Giant Super Sportster and it has the new hub. There are no pins in the hub and no pins were included with the engine. I also just received Todd's email indicating that the new hub drill guide is now available but, I still don't see any pins. I am guessing that you screw the pins into the threaded holes in the hub, slide the newly drilled prop onto the shaft and into the pins (which do not protrude through the top of the prop), add the prop washer and then tighten the prop nut. If I am correct (actually I am asking if I am correct) then how or where do you get the pins that thread into the hub? Will someone please set me on the right path - are the pins helpful to the sport flyer?

You should see how slick the SAP 180 looks mounted to the front of the Giant Super Sportster. A flying buddy of mine visited my shop (part of my garage) the other day before the engine was mated to the plane. He picked it up and started looking at all of the external features and it reminded me of someone looking at an art object in a museum. I cannot wait to get this one to the field.

Howard

50%plane

My Feedback: (5)

Just got an awesome email:

Digital Tachometers and 18.5x5.5 Vess Props will be shipping to customers this Wednesday. We have a limited supply of the special cut 18.5x5.5 Vess props!

Here's a link to the page to see the details:

http://www.syssaaircraft.com/cart/pc...?idCategory=11

Hope the summer stretches out a little more!

Thanks and take care,
Todd Syssa

jdeltano

I received that mail also

While at the website I see that he sells Carbon fiber Spinners along with the Dave Brown adapter nut, washer and retaining screw. My Pilot RC Extra came with a Carbon spinner, does any one know what size Dave Brown adapter nut is correct for the Syssa?

Syssa Aircraft

We can get you the Dave Brown adapter nut, washer and 10-32 screw that is correct for the 3" spinner.
The problem might be the center hole in the spinner backplate. Check yours to make sure it fits nicely on the crankshaft.

We have the backplates here and CNC machine them here with the SAP180HP drive pin hole pattern and correct center hole right in there.

If the center hole is correct you can use the drill tool to put the pattern in.

The drill tool comes with the pins. The drivepins come with the drill tool kit as it is not an easy task to drill the holes manually into your prop or spinner backplate.

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

Todd,

Are the drive pins needed for sport flying?

Howard

Syssa Aircraft

If you use an aluminum spinner that has a good knurl on it you probably will not need it. If you notice the prop, spinner, or backplate ever "creep" in relation to one another or the crankshaft position it (the drive pin system) will solve that.

You will notice possibly if you go to start the engine at some point and the prop is not in the correct position.

cmoulder

Your observation is absolutely correct. It is a matter of physics, not opinion.

It is pretty simple: Cold air is denser and therefore alters the fuel:air ratio which determines tuning. More (denser) air requires more (richer) fuel. This is why engine performance improves so dramatically in cold weather.

When I maidened my first Syssa last January it was 10 degF and the performance was insane. Performance since then has always been excellent, but never better than in very cold weather.

I think guys sometimes get away with lean running simply because it is cold, which tends to keep the cylinder head temperature down if there is good airflow.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Life is good.

~ Jim ~

JohnB96041

The spring on the throttle arm of the SAP180HP seems a little strong to me. Should I leave it in place or remove it? It would seem that a constant load is placed on the throttle servo if the spring is there causing a lot of battery drain. Also, how do you keep the choke on while flipping the prop? It is also spring loaded.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I keep mine in the last hole out to minimize the spring tension. Any regular servo can do the rest.

I run a linkage wire through a tight hole in a piece of wood for the choke. I'll look for the photo I just posted that shows it and list the post #......

The first photo is somebody else's, the second one is mine. You can see the wire through the wood. One the first one, it's not finshed by whoever's it was.


~ Jim ~

JohnB96041

Good pics. I was a little concerned because none of my 4 stroke Saitos have a spring on the throttle. However, I guess this is a safety measure so if the throttle linkage comes loose the throttle will automatically close?

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I routed my choke using a Goldenrod through a piece of fuel line and it works perfectly:

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

That's the theory behind it, and return springs usually come stock on the carbs of small gasoline engines. I'm going to take this as a good sign, that you now have your Syssa in your hot little hands? If so, congratulations! Mine is supposed to ship in the next few days, I have been told. I'm doing this build on video, and it'll be good to have the engine handy.

~ Jim ~

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Is that carbon fiber rod you're using to run your throttle, Ghoffman? Well, I guess it'll hold!

Don't you get gas-splash inside your fuse with the carb inside like that?

~ Jim ~

bcchi

I have two USL the big one,with DL 30s.I had to put the servoes in the tail. Mounted the two ele servoes in the stab,and the rudder servo just ahead of the fin. Balence came out OK then. I am rebuilding one now and shortened the nose 1.1/2 inches.I do not remember who wrecked it but outer 1/3 of one wing was gone.
Just scarfed onto it.
BCCHI

DamonR

I finally put together my Extreme Flight Extra with my second Syssa 30cc.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYimoP6icHc[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxNqcXOVtYY[/youtube]

It's balancing about an inch beyond the range, toward the tail, so I need to figure out how much weight I need and add it to the nose. I have the battery and everything possible moved forward, so will have to gain weight. It weighs 11.5 lbs without balance weight.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I have a couple of suggestions if I may:
1) Put a washer (larger in diameter than the ball) through the bolt on the servo arm side, so if the ball comes out of the rod end, you will not lose control.
2) Use a 3200 Life battery and mount it to the engine box, opposite the ignition, to shift some weight forward. I have mine there with the identical setup and it fly's great there.

Brownie433

I have not made it through all 140 pages yet, so if this has been asked I apologize in advance.


Looking at this motor for a 72" 3D Hobby Shop Extra 330SC, should weigh in around 10 1/2 lbs when complete. I'm more into 3D and moderate aerobatics. I'm looking for 3D type grunt with lots of on/off throttle and a wide torque curve. Anyone doing this type of flying and running a bigger prop than the 18x6? It seems this plane and 3D work really well with the DLE 30 on a 20x6 Xoar (some are flying 19x8 Xoar). Seems the DLE swings a bigger prop well and grunts really well with on/off throttle transitions for hovering, blasting out of hovering, and other high-alpha type flying. I'm really interested in the engine, the quality looks off the hook and the weight is right there.

Now I could be reading things very wrong, but it seems to me that this engine likes a smaller prop and higher rpms.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

JohnB96041

The SAP180 manual says it can use a 16 x 10 to a 20 x 6.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

You might want to talk with Todd regarding some special cut props he's been messing with. They're 18.5x5.5

I like the APC 18x6w, but they're a little heavy for the on again/off again thing...

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I've had good luck with heavier planes (15 pounds) and Xoar or Zinger 18 X 6, you might be able to (might even need to) go larger (19 X 6 or 20 X 6) with such a light plane as you're talking about.

I've just mounted mine on a 14-pound Giant Super Sportster, but I haven't had time to get it in the air and evaluate it.

~ Jim ~

JohnB96041

OK...I have probably ask this question before, but can not find it or an answer. I am having trouble finding the correct oil for the oil/gas mixture. The SAP 180hp manual says a non-synthetic oil for the first 15 minutes mixed at 40:1. I have a bottle of Briggs & Stratton 2 cycle oil and a bottle of Valvoline Marine 2 cycle oil that is NMMA certified. Can I use this oil for break in?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The B&S would be better than the Valvoline Marine

cmoulder

Don't use the marine oil.

Look on the label for the designation "TCP-1". That's what you want to use.

JohnB96041

Thanks, All. I will use the B&S at 40:1 for break-in.