MsgtRob

I ordered my stand offs on the short side knowing I could always add spacers to meet the final dimensions. You may switch airframes eventually and it is better to be too short vs. too long on the stand offs. If you saw the engine run video I posted you'll notice I have the machined spacers from "PSP" at the firewall side. They gave me the dimensions I needed and a little extra cooling....They do have one ground run and three good flights on them and outlasted the engine thus far...

I use Spektrum DX7 2.4ghz and only have glitching if I hold the radio antenna very close to the fuselage/transmitter. (with digital servos) was your radio in your hand and close to the ignition switch when you had gliching? I can reproduce it on demand if I point the radio at the receiver/switches within 12 inches. I've never had a problem when range checking or flying. Scared the @#^$% out of me first time it happened, then I quickly realized my radio was powered on and in my left hand, too close to the electronics.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The radiation from the antenna is least off the end.

If you point the antenna at the model, the RF from the ignition source has a greater chance of overcoming the normal stabilization and causing the jitters

MTK

Bob and Hog,

The Tech Aero Designs IBEC is quite a neat device. I am using the original prototype in my set-up and the designer is good friend, Ed Alt who owns Tech Aero. I also have had a hand in testing the device with a multitude of radios, on 72 Mhz, FM/PPM, PCM and the latest 2.4 gig DSS and FASST. Current radios work very well with no practical loss in range.

We also tested several older radios, older than 5 years old. Futaba's and JR's top of the line radios from back then also worked fine. But some middle of the road Futaba radios were more susceptible to ignition noise losing as much as 20% in range and in Hitec's case, lost about 50% in range. JR's ABC&W RXs were more immune to such noise. Keep in mind though that without the filtering built into the IBEC, these radios would have lost most if not all of the range they normally would have in a glow application

Ed has explained his electronics to me and they make very good sense to me. The Tech Aero device depends on electronic filtering the return noise (rather than depending on long, twisted wiring with choked ends to provide iffy filtering) from the ignition and practically eliminates it from the circuit. Some Older radio RXs are not quite as immune because even the tiniest of RFI caused them to glitch. Ed tweeked the voltage output from the IBEC to the module such that the module will see about 4.6 V at full load (full revs). He tweeked components using superior electronics to only drop about 0.3V across the IBEC. This all equates to minimizing the amount of current drawn from the battery to power the CDI module. It may very well be the most tested IBEC on the market today, but neither Ed nor I lay claim to such a thing.

The device is very light at around half ounce or so, with the bulk of the weight coming from the wire connectors. Keeping these as short as practical enables minimal weight. I know this is a sport flyers thread and minimizing weight doesn't hold the same stature as it does in competitive circles. In pattern for example, where we have a limit on airborne weight, it's normal to think in terms of 75$ per ounce to lose that ounce from the airframe, when one gets close to the limit

Ed doesn't subscribe to this thread so I took the liberty to discuss this at his behalf

MattK

Hog78

My Feedback: (36)

I am using the Zues I havnt weighed it but it seems only a few oz's I use spectrum 7000 and 9303 for tx all that packed into my Sig Mayhem and not a single glitch (and it is tight in there). Cant wait for the Nall!!!

craigteffe

My Feedback: (24)

The Zues weighs 1.73 Oz.

Joystick TX

The spacers being too long would not be a problem, I have a pretty good shop. The diameter is the problem. I don't want to try to stack two or three different diameter "cylinders" on a bolt due to the radial loads involved.

GLRogers

My Feedback: (2)

Joystick
What number was your engine?
Gary

MsgtRob

The PSP spacers I used are the same diameter as the Syssa standoff at the fire wall side. I used a threaded aluminum sleeve internally to take up the space around the4-40 bolt. (local hardware store for the sleeve) I'll post a picture when I get home..

Congrats on getting the engine!

Joystick TX

My order number was 391 from 8 Jan. If you are trying to calculate how long it takes to get the engine after you order it like a lot of us did, the engine was actually ready about three weeks ago and I had Todd hold up the shipment because I was on the road.

The engine SN 0900336.

Joystick TX

Your installation looks great, that is what I had in mind.

The engine is so light, I found that I need to have 7 3/4" hub to firewall distance to prevent (hopefully) from having to add lead in the nose.

Any word on your engine yet?

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Did Todd figure out what went wrong with yours yet?

MsgtRob

Thanks,
PSP manufacturing has some good stuff and they ship fast. I used longer stainless steel machine bolts at the fire wall. (A little more weight) I too hate adding lead weight to any plane.

I emailed Todd for status. Thursday he wrotethat he intended to run my engine that day and ship it back. He confirmed the hub key was sheared. I mailed back asking for shipping notification when it ships and summary of maintenance accomplished. I havn't heard anything back.

GLRogers

My Feedback: (2)

Patience has never been one of my strong points and I have nothing to complain about. It seems that Syssa is catching up with their backlog. I am order number 412 from 1/24 so it is getting closer. I plan to put it in a HiFly Giles 202. Thanks for the response.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Looks nice, where did you get it?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

[img]{akamaiimageforum}/Upfiles/235030/Up47570.jpg[/img]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Looking at the diagrams which came from early on in this thread -

The stand - offs in the diagram appear to be 1 3/4" plus a washer

Looks like it would take a 2" stand - off distance for the carb to clear the fire wall and have a little breathing room?

Edit:
In the post (two below) his dimension is 1.906" to the rear of the carb from the face of the prop flange

GLRogers

My Feedback: (2)

I got it through:
http://swrcengines.com/default.aspx
But it was shipped direct from:
http://www.hiflymodels.com/product-2...tid1=2&rid=224
I have not assembled it yet. It is primarily an Aerobatic plane with full 3D and Pattern capabilities. For pattern, is allows you to move the wing up to 2" from front to back. I must admit I do not understand the dynamics of that?

Joystick TX

w8ye,

Thanks for the diagrams.

I noticed that the dimension that I needed, length from the hub to the back of the carb screws, was not on the side view.

The distance from the front of the carb to the back of the screws is 1.906. That plus the distance from the hub to the back of the engine (3.919") is 5.825", or about 5-13/16".

affas

Hello,

I did know that I had to wait some time when I ordered but I have asked for updates twice and I am not getting any information. Any idea when the Invoicenumer 383 will be shipped?
It would be nice to have it installed by the summerseason

Joystick TX

w8ye,

In your edit, 1.906" should be the distance from the front of the carb to the back of the screws on the carb. That was a major missing dimension from the original drawing.

Another useful, but minor, missing dimension is the distance the carb screws stick out from the rear of the carb, which is 0.360”. The standoffs, with washer?, would be 1.768".

The distance from the front of the hub to the rear of the carb screws comes out to 5.825”.

I am using 2.300” standoffs; the 2” standoffs don’t give much breathing room for my installation because I don’t have a hole in the firewall directly behind the carb.

BTW - I may be off a few thousandths of an inch. My equipment is not all that state of the art.

MikeAndersonCA

Break-in and Manual

Hey gang just wanted to double-check on a couple things. I've searched this thread for two issues and came up unclear:

1) The only "manual" available for the SAP 180HP is the RCExel ignition sheets, right? There's no engine manual yet right?

2) There is no "special" oil ratio recommended for break-in. Seems like running at a conventional 40:1 ratio of conventional oil (mineral or synthetic) to (regular) gas is all that is expected, right? If true can anyone see a technical problem with running premium gas?

Thanks . . .

MsgtRob

The engine manual is in my post #1710 read and heed.

MikeAndersonCA

Ok so how does one jump to a specific post# in a thread? (Just searched RCU help and got nowhere)