airborne2.4

My eyes are on this for the DLE 30
http://www.aero-works.net/store/detail.aspx?ID=442

mschulz531

Yeah, that's a nice plane...wish I could afford one.
I'm going to build a kit version of the Edge 540 instead.

ed42d-RCU

My Feedback: (13)

'I'm going to build a kit version of the Edge 540 instead'

Which kit is that? Could be a nice winter project.

mschulz531

The Edge 540 kit from D&L Designs: http://www.dldesigns.net/edge.htm
The web site says it requires a 30cc to 50cc engine, so I'm not totally sure the DLE-30 will be enough, but I like the idea of a building a larger plane from a kit instead of buying an ARF. If the DLE-30 won't be enough, perhaps I'll have to get the DLE-50...just not sure yet.
<g>
</g>If anyone knows other kits that would be a good fit for the DLE-30, please let me know.

<g>I notice you are in Buffalo Grove...do you fly at Deer Grove or somewhere else?
My club field is in Ringwood but I fly at Deer Grove from time to time, usually on my way to/from work in Deerfield.
-Mike

</g>

ed42d-RCU

My Feedback: (13)

Yes, I fly at Deer Grove. I'm in Blue Max Flying Club and usually fly weekends in the morning.

airborne2.4

Have a look at these
http://www.redwingrc.com/planes/sbach.html
http://www.redwingrc.com/planes/mx2.html

darkith

I picked up my Seagull Extra 260 1.80 for pretty cheap on a "grand opening" sale. Think it was $170 CDN or so, so about the same in USD. Shipping made it more expensive, but S&H in the US tends to be cheaper. Good match with the DLE-30.

If you don't have your heart set on building, I bet if you watched for a holiday sale over the next few months (Black Friday, Pre-Xmas, Boxing Day, Post-Xmas, New Years, etc) you might be able to pickup a deal on something similar. Peakmodel.com is another good source for big planes, espc if you get the combo with the DLE30. One of our club members has gotten several 25%+ airframes from there and been really happy with them.

D.

mschulz531

Yes, Peak Models has some really good deals...if I buy instead of build, their Edge and the DLE-30 would be my first choice.

mschulz531

These are nice ARF's...Peak Models also have some good ARF's...however, I was specifically looking for kits.

airborne2.4

I love ARF's......if I ever build a kit, I don't think I'll fly it

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

That's my problem with a 25% Nosen Citabria and a 33% ACE Pitts currently occupying a huge amount of my limited space. 20 years ago, when I built them, I had the confidence to fly them on big Super Tigers. Today, they'd make super gas conversions......but I plain don't have the guts! Someday maybe.

Capt Cash

My Feedback: (1)

Piston head carbon build up? As a newbie to gassers I was just wanting to clarify that this is normal with a new engine? With the plug out I can see that a significant amount of hard carbon is builtupon the piston head. So I can only assume there is much more that I can't see too, maybealsoin the ring grooves as well?

It's a new DLE-30 with aNGK CM-6 plug. I now have 2 gal through it using Lawnboy ashless oil at 32:1 as the manual recommends. After periodically checking the plug I could see it was running a little wet, and black with some build up, so this probably indicates a little rich. It also spit black crud forever but is subsiding now.As this is expected after breaking in some, I'venow leaned it a little and it's giving me 7100 or soon a 19x8 Xoar. The plug is now running a dry light brown color. Engine runs great in all phases. I guess the Lawnboy oil could also cause a little build up too. I'm planning to switch to the Stihl Ultra HP next.

I assume all engines get carbon build up to a certain degree in these areas even if not running rich. Just wondering if I should ever worry about cleaning itdown the road or just leaving it be.

cmptrguy

My Feedback: (19)

As posted several times earlier in the thread-lots of people including me have always used or switched to Stihl Ultra in lieu of Lawnboy. Lawnboy does tend to carbon up the engine as does Amsoil.

Capt Cash

My Feedback: (1)

I agree andam planning on switching to the Stihl synthetic after the break-in period. I understand that some people do break-in with the synthetic oil, it just takes longer. I don't know which is best so I just followed the manual and noticed the carbon build up. I guess it's normal and will remain there indefinetly even after switching to synthetic oil.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Lawnboy is proclaimed to be ashless which should eliminate the gummed up rings?

The oil brand belongs to the Toro lawn equipment Company and is manufactured and canned by Citgo. So it is a name band substance with a pedigree .

Starting back 30 years ago, I used it 32:1 for many years in my chain saws, weed whackers, and model engines and never experienced any engine problem related to oil or the fuel.

I have not used it in the last ten years though.

No comment about Amsoil.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

if your against the electronic kill switch you can spend about 10bucks and get a dubro kill switch .it can be servo activated and is likely as easy as they can get,

not too many years ago I had one on my giant stinger with a 3w 60.worked fine.

summerwind

2 more questions about setting this engine up and then i'm off and running
in first picture i see this little mod to the cover plate in some threads, so is this something i need to do?

the second picture shows the carb as posted by w8ye and the small hole in the choke plate.......should this be soldered up to give the choke more effect?

captinjohn

Another way...install a servo to shut your switch off to the ignition...via a unused channel on theTX. You could mark it On & Off Just may be too easy....you would not need to bend over to turn your ignition on. Ha!...............

cmoulder

The first picture shows a "static line" on the ambient pressure reference diaphragm cover. If you're flying an aerobatic model where the model will be flown inverted or knife edge or with outside (negative) maneuvers you may well need it because of pressure changes within the cowl that make the engine run badly, sag or quit outright. A lot of guys "chase the needles around" when this is the solution to their problem. Simply solder a nipple into the hole in the plate, clean up the back side of the plate to make sure it's smooth, then run an open-ended tygon tube into the fuse where the air pressure is constant.

I never had a problem choking with the hole in the plate. I don't understand the need for the hole, but Walbro makes a lot of carbs and has a reason for it... perhaps to help prevent flooding, or some such, but that is a total guess on my part.

summerwind

thx for clarifying that Bob.

SuperCub Man

FYI - I installed a 2300Mah A123 battery from WrongWay R/C in my Super Cub, with JR leads for both the RCVR and the Ignition Module. Now instead of two charge ports I have a quality three wire switch for the RCVR inside the cabin and an HD charge/switch for the Ignit. module mounted on the fuse aft of the cowl through which I charge/balance. On my first flight I spent 1/2 hour trying to start the engine before I realized I had accidently pushed the choke lever the wrong way!! Finally I woke up and she started beautifully. A little cold outside so I had to tweak the low end. Flew around for a few minutes before I remembered to turn on the XMTTR timer and then flew for 10 minutes (boy that seemed a long time!) - doing what-ever you can do with a big Cub. Having started with a battery that I had charged up a couple of week ago, I then re-charged it at the field and after all that messing around it still only took 137Mah!! - according to my new FMA Cell Pro Multi4. WOW!

Well this sells me on just one battery for my RCVR and Ignition with a 2.4G radio. It charges up in 15 minutes or less and I have enough capacity to fly a full day - at least! I can charge up and leave the model sitting for a few weeks and still be ready to just grab her and go flying without having to "top it up"! Now just one battery - less weight - less fuss - LOVE IT!

FentonFlyer

My Feedback: (11)

Is there any reason to shy away from a NIB 30 with the side carb?

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

there are people swearing they have never encountered a problem.I know a person flying his with a side unit and likes it.but I think the majority of dle30 users are rear carb inducted and evidence suggests it does work better.I ended up with a rear carb and its fine.I had another gasser with a side carb a while back and frankly had no issues but it wasnt a dle..speak with jody at valleyview and he will give you a honest answer!great person to deal with.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

summerwind the walbro is sensitive to atomsheric pressure and its the float diaphragm under the cover plate that can cause some issues when the air pressure outside the plane flucates significantly.plugging the hole is a good thing and using a film capsule stored inside your fuse can stablize the pressure. there is an excellent tutorial on the web site "Thunderboldt R-C".not only can they explain the situation but they show you how to resolve it very easy and inexpensively.they even have a cheap kit you can buy if your not up making one yourself.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I wouldn't hesitate to pick up on a good deal on one? Worst case, you just convert it....