YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
12-09-2009, 04:48 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
ORIGINAL: jedijody
For the record, one of the manufacturers at best only writes in a form of broken engrish, this I know for a fact.
For the record, one of the manufacturers at best only writes in a form of broken engrish, this I know for a fact.
And I am the manufacturer of the other brand.
12-09-2009, 05:24 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
ORIGINAL: aussiesteve
It must have been DL that wrote it because I sure as hell didn't.
And I am the manufacturer of the other brand.
ORIGINAL: jedijody
For the record, one of the manufacturers at best only writes in a form of broken engrish, this I know for a fact.
For the record, one of the manufacturers at best only writes in a form of broken engrish, this I know for a fact.
And I am the manufacturer of the other brand.
12-09-2009, 05:48 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
Take a look a the RCGF 52cc twin. I just put one in a GP 1/3 scale Pitts. It fits great! I have one of these engines running in a 1/3 scale spacewalker and it has preformed super.
12-09-2009, 06:02 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
This is a great thread I am looking at Both of these eng for my next project the AW Sport Cub S2 AW shows the DA 50R in there add but the price of the DLE and the YD-A have my attention.
I do have an RCGF 26 that I have some problems with, I called Henry about my issues and even though ( I DID NOT PURCHASE THIS ENG FROM HIM ) Henry went out of his way to make sure I was taken care of, He told me to contact his service Dept (Bill Jensen) I believe and tell him my issues and he would take care of me WELL He did no questions, no hassles, and No Charge what so ever not even Shipping on the part.
This kind of cust service is very much appreciated. I am awaiting the results of the run test.
Even if the YD-A comes in 2nd for power I have experienced 1st PLACE Service from them and that goes a long way, I am hoping the reliability and ease of use is as good and the Service with the YD-A
I do have an RCGF 26 that I have some problems with, I called Henry about my issues and even though ( I DID NOT PURCHASE THIS ENG FROM HIM ) Henry went out of his way to make sure I was taken care of, He told me to contact his service Dept (Bill Jensen) I believe and tell him my issues and he would take care of me WELL He did no questions, no hassles, and No Charge what so ever not even Shipping on the part.
This kind of cust service is very much appreciated. I am awaiting the results of the run test.
Even if the YD-A comes in 2nd for power I have experienced 1st PLACE Service from them and that goes a long way, I am hoping the reliability and ease of use is as good and the Service with the YD-A
12-09-2009, 06:04 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
ORIGINAL: Piston
Hey All
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I63tonjpnrM]YD-A 56 Flying a 35 pound DH-4M2 @ half throttle[/link]
The engine reviewer is Dick Petitt... He has reviewed many dozens of engines professionally. He reviews engines for RC ONLINE.
He is flying the YD-A 56cc power plant turning a Vess 25A prop pulling 6000 RPM.
The plane is a quarter scale Balsa USA de Havilland DH-4M2 that has 4300 square inches of wing area and weighs 35 pounds. 99% of this flight was done at half throttle.
His comment...''Enough power? I think so....''
Cheers
Henry
Hey All
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I63tonjpnrM]YD-A 56 Flying a 35 pound DH-4M2 @ half throttle[/link]
The engine reviewer is Dick Petitt... He has reviewed many dozens of engines professionally. He reviews engines for RC ONLINE.
He is flying the YD-A 56cc power plant turning a Vess 25A prop pulling 6000 RPM.
The plane is a quarter scale Balsa USA de Havilland DH-4M2 that has 4300 square inches of wing area and weighs 35 pounds. 99% of this flight was done at half throttle.
His comment...''Enough power? I think so....''
Cheers
Henry
12-09-2009, 06:16 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
OK, Please lets not worry about who I quoted...
So I disassembled both engines last night just to do a little exploring...
I did not remove the crank from the front half of the case, as this is a pressed fit, and I didn't want to play in that arena, because it really isn't all that important. Both engines have (visually) comparable NSK brand bearings (China &Japan). I did notice that the DLE had brown seals on the bearings as opposed to the black seals on the YD-A. I don't know what the difference is, so I wont go any further into that.
Things that I noticed with the YD-A:
*Nicely machined crank case pieces, but no alignment means, so if you split the case, you'd better have a fixture to re-assemble or you will fight with all sorts of problems!
*The cylinder has nice smooth ports (compared to the DLE(rough ports) but, the ports are just open channels(the DLE has deeper porting with a bridge, I assume this is for strength and support)
*The con-rod bearings are fairly loose, so you will hear a "rattle" when flipping it. I didn't hear a rattle with it running, but the exhaust is pretty loud...The con-rod is supported on pin bearings top, and bottom. The wrist pin has added brass thrust washers that I was told was to combat a potential problem with the pistons…It appears to be a good fix to the problem, and I appreciate them stepping up to avoid future problems.
*I really don't care for the reed block ass'y. It is a plastic block, with pinned metal reeds(basically, small plastic molded pins hold the reeds in place, and on my first engine, the reeds were slide up the pins causing small burrs to build under the reed material causing a lack of surface contact hence, a bad seal) There is a rubber block that slides over the reeds, to hold them against the plastic block, than the carb isolator holds the rubber block firmly. The problem is the pressure from the carb (as you tighten the mounting bolts) is against the thin plastic flange against the rubber block, so a slight over tightening results in a cracked reed block flange.(personal experience) My experiences are that the reeds don't seal very well, as I have filled the inside of my plane with fuel spray after a few flights.
The main things that I noticed with the DLE:
*Cast lower crank case halves, but very nicely machined where it matters. There is actually a flange/lip that overlaps the other half to help seal, and align the two halves, as well as guide pins, so re-assembly is a snap! And there is no need for gaskets (between case halves) due to the lip. We still use a liquid gasket material... but the YD-A has to use a paper gasket.
*I really like the cylinder design, but the port casting is pretty rough throughout. I was going to smooth it out, but I have to wait until these tests are complete! The YD-A has very nice smooth porting. They both have what appears to be the same chroming although my YD-A had a slight blemish (Chrome missing) which I know that Henry would be willing to repair/replace. The cooling fins are blatantly different between the two engines, but I believe that both will more than adequately cool the engine. I would think that the YD-A's will put up with a little more abuse, but the general consensus is that the DLE looks a little better(personal opinions...)
* The Con-rod bearings seem to be a lot tighter on the DLE. This is not really all that important (in my opinion), but the “Rattle†is annoying to me. Both engines have appropriate pin bearings top, and bottom.
*I really like the reed system on the DLE! It is an alum. Block with screwed down composite reeds. They seem to be totally sealed even though they are still dry, and they don’t rely on two other pieces to hold them against their sealing surface. The aluminum block/flange also combats the problem of over tightening. The DLE has what appears to be the same material carb. Isolator, so I don’t feel a need to go into any more depth on that.
*The Piston on the DLE is impressive to see as well. It is very light, as most of the trivial material has been removed, so only the necessary weight is present. I would have to believe that some of the clearancing aids in the cylinder porting as well. The piston on the YD-A looks like a typical cast aluminum, solid skirted piston, but does include two rings, as opposed to the single piston ring on the DLE. The YD-A has chrome-moly rings, and I have no idea what the DLE’s ring is made of, so I wont go any further into that either…
I have a bunch of pictures, so I will post them next...
So I disassembled both engines last night just to do a little exploring...
I did not remove the crank from the front half of the case, as this is a pressed fit, and I didn't want to play in that arena, because it really isn't all that important. Both engines have (visually) comparable NSK brand bearings (China &Japan). I did notice that the DLE had brown seals on the bearings as opposed to the black seals on the YD-A. I don't know what the difference is, so I wont go any further into that.
Things that I noticed with the YD-A:
*Nicely machined crank case pieces, but no alignment means, so if you split the case, you'd better have a fixture to re-assemble or you will fight with all sorts of problems!
*The cylinder has nice smooth ports (compared to the DLE(rough ports) but, the ports are just open channels(the DLE has deeper porting with a bridge, I assume this is for strength and support)
*The con-rod bearings are fairly loose, so you will hear a "rattle" when flipping it. I didn't hear a rattle with it running, but the exhaust is pretty loud...The con-rod is supported on pin bearings top, and bottom. The wrist pin has added brass thrust washers that I was told was to combat a potential problem with the pistons…It appears to be a good fix to the problem, and I appreciate them stepping up to avoid future problems.
*I really don't care for the reed block ass'y. It is a plastic block, with pinned metal reeds(basically, small plastic molded pins hold the reeds in place, and on my first engine, the reeds were slide up the pins causing small burrs to build under the reed material causing a lack of surface contact hence, a bad seal) There is a rubber block that slides over the reeds, to hold them against the plastic block, than the carb isolator holds the rubber block firmly. The problem is the pressure from the carb (as you tighten the mounting bolts) is against the thin plastic flange against the rubber block, so a slight over tightening results in a cracked reed block flange.(personal experience) My experiences are that the reeds don't seal very well, as I have filled the inside of my plane with fuel spray after a few flights.
The main things that I noticed with the DLE:
*Cast lower crank case halves, but very nicely machined where it matters. There is actually a flange/lip that overlaps the other half to help seal, and align the two halves, as well as guide pins, so re-assembly is a snap! And there is no need for gaskets (between case halves) due to the lip. We still use a liquid gasket material... but the YD-A has to use a paper gasket.
*I really like the cylinder design, but the port casting is pretty rough throughout. I was going to smooth it out, but I have to wait until these tests are complete! The YD-A has very nice smooth porting. They both have what appears to be the same chroming although my YD-A had a slight blemish (Chrome missing) which I know that Henry would be willing to repair/replace. The cooling fins are blatantly different between the two engines, but I believe that both will more than adequately cool the engine. I would think that the YD-A's will put up with a little more abuse, but the general consensus is that the DLE looks a little better(personal opinions...)
* The Con-rod bearings seem to be a lot tighter on the DLE. This is not really all that important (in my opinion), but the “Rattle†is annoying to me. Both engines have appropriate pin bearings top, and bottom.
*I really like the reed system on the DLE! It is an alum. Block with screwed down composite reeds. They seem to be totally sealed even though they are still dry, and they don’t rely on two other pieces to hold them against their sealing surface. The aluminum block/flange also combats the problem of over tightening. The DLE has what appears to be the same material carb. Isolator, so I don’t feel a need to go into any more depth on that.
*The Piston on the DLE is impressive to see as well. It is very light, as most of the trivial material has been removed, so only the necessary weight is present. I would have to believe that some of the clearancing aids in the cylinder porting as well. The piston on the YD-A looks like a typical cast aluminum, solid skirted piston, but does include two rings, as opposed to the single piston ring on the DLE. The YD-A has chrome-moly rings, and I have no idea what the DLE’s ring is made of, so I wont go any further into that either…
I have a bunch of pictures, so I will post them next...
12-09-2009, 06:19 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
YD-A internals:
Please keep in mind that this engine has about two hours of run time, where the DLE has not been started yet, so it will be cleaner, and no scratches(yet). I will get the DLE running as soon as it is warmer than -36* outside....burrr
Please keep in mind that this engine has about two hours of run time, where the DLE has not been started yet, so it will be cleaner, and no scratches(yet). I will get the DLE running as soon as it is warmer than -36* outside....burrr
12-09-2009, 07:33 PM
#63
RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
good pictures of the internals, i like the carb screen on the dle thats a plus to me, but i've never seen a piston like dle has, looks unusual to me to me but i'm not implying that there is something wrong with it.
12-09-2009, 07:39 PM
#65
RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
ORIGINAL: straitnickel
good pictures of the internals, i like the carb screen on the dle thats a plus to me
good pictures of the internals, i like the carb screen on the dle thats a plus to me
12-09-2009, 07:45 PM
#66
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
ORIGINAL: RC Pile It
Hey FW190,
I took both apart last night, and found that the DLE did have quite a bit of slop in the threads, for the first few threads at least. their crankcase machining however was very nice(pictures to follow). I was impressed with guide pins being used to ensure proper case half alignment, as well as an overlapping lip to ensure a good seal. The YD-A however, didn't have any form of ''guides'', so if the case is to be split, be prepaird to have to ''jig'' the re-assembly, because if the case halves aren't aligned properly, the cylinder will not mate up properly, causing all sorts of problems...And the YD-A relys on gaskets to seal their case halves. But, Their bolts/holes have a nice snug feel to them, and their use of quality loctite(or equivalant) is noticable everywhere. The DLE didn't show as much thread lock as I would have liked to have seen, but the main case bolts did have some...
Hey FW190,
I took both apart last night, and found that the DLE did have quite a bit of slop in the threads, for the first few threads at least. their crankcase machining however was very nice(pictures to follow). I was impressed with guide pins being used to ensure proper case half alignment, as well as an overlapping lip to ensure a good seal. The YD-A however, didn't have any form of ''guides'', so if the case is to be split, be prepaird to have to ''jig'' the re-assembly, because if the case halves aren't aligned properly, the cylinder will not mate up properly, causing all sorts of problems...And the YD-A relys on gaskets to seal their case halves. But, Their bolts/holes have a nice snug feel to them, and their use of quality loctite(or equivalant) is noticable everywhere. The DLE didn't show as much thread lock as I would have liked to have seen, but the main case bolts did have some...
Awesome info and its great to know! Thank you much!
If I mail you a propeller will you run it on both motors and get some readings?
12-09-2009, 08:07 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
Hi Jones...,
I was very concerned with the plastic block also, but I was assured that it was standard equipt. with these guys, and have been tested, tryed, and true...
Again, I broke the first one, so I am a little leary, as I like to tighten screws more than the plastic/rubber will allow, but I believe that it will get tight enough. Otherwise, I will make an aluminum plate to cover the reed block flange, but that is later, after the tests. I plan on doing a follow up of things that I want to change, and post the outcome of these changes, but again, that's later...
I was very concerned with the plastic block also, but I was assured that it was standard equipt. with these guys, and have been tested, tryed, and true...
Again, I broke the first one, so I am a little leary, as I like to tighten screws more than the plastic/rubber will allow, but I believe that it will get tight enough. Otherwise, I will make an aluminum plate to cover the reed block flange, but that is later, after the tests. I plan on doing a follow up of things that I want to change, and post the outcome of these changes, but again, that's later...
12-09-2009, 08:30 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
ORIGINAL: RC Pile It
Hi Jones...,
I was very concerned with the plastic block also, but I was assured that it was standard equipt. with these guys, and have been tested, tryed, and true...
Again, I broke the first one, so I am a little leary, as I like to tighten screws more than the plastic/rubber will allow, but I believe that it will get tight enough. Otherwise, I will make an aluminum plate to cover the reed block flange, but that is later, after the tests. I plan on doing a follow up of things that I want to change, and post the outcome of these changes, but again, that's later...
Hi Jones...,
I was very concerned with the plastic block also, but I was assured that it was standard equipt. with these guys, and have been tested, tryed, and true...
Again, I broke the first one, so I am a little leary, as I like to tighten screws more than the plastic/rubber will allow, but I believe that it will get tight enough. Otherwise, I will make an aluminum plate to cover the reed block flange, but that is later, after the tests. I plan on doing a follow up of things that I want to change, and post the outcome of these changes, but again, that's later...
Yea I have things on and off a bit myself and I dont own a torque wrench so I do the best I can by hand, by the way on my 26cc RCGF the part I had to have replaced was the Reed Block the threads where the carb screws on were striped. Henry asked if there were metal inserts in those threads (helicoil) I told him no not there so that is the part that I had replaced.
12-09-2009, 08:43 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
Well J....,
I believe this to be a differant set-up, as there are no threads, the bolts go all the way though to the case backplate. Like I said, I believe it to be good enough, but I want more stregth in the long run! Thanks-
I believe this to be a differant set-up, as there are no threads, the bolts go all the way though to the case backplate. Like I said, I believe it to be good enough, but I want more stregth in the long run! Thanks-
12-09-2009, 10:10 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
You are doing a great job so far.
The lighter piston should give you higher RPM if all other things are equal. Balancing gives you smoothness.
Two rings give you better seal ,compression and longevity. The question is what are you looking for: Higher RPM in the short run or consistent Power in the long run.
As you know from building Horse Power in engines. There is always a "Tradeoff"
The lighter piston should give you higher RPM if all other things are equal. Balancing gives you smoothness.
Two rings give you better seal ,compression and longevity. The question is what are you looking for: Higher RPM in the short run or consistent Power in the long run.
As you know from building Horse Power in engines. There is always a "Tradeoff"
12-09-2009, 11:32 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
just imagine a real field test!!!! lol on FG forum there was a guy that race the same airplane with DA50 and other with DLE55 and after the DLE55 was almost 40 feet away on vertical from the "other"airplane lol....the DA owner just quit and pack the airplane and go home.... lol, its funny when people can accept that "chinese" things can be better and powerfull than others product.
12-09-2009, 11:56 PM
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RE: YD-A 56 vs. DLE 55
ORIGINAL: Tseres
You are doing a great job so far.
The lighter piston should give you higher RPM if all other things are equal. Balancing gives you smoothness.
Two rings give you better seal ,compression and longevity. The question is what are you looking for: Higher RPM in the short run or consistent Power in the long run.
As you know from building Horse Power in engines. There is always a ''Tradeoff''
You are doing a great job so far.
The lighter piston should give you higher RPM if all other things are equal. Balancing gives you smoothness.
Two rings give you better seal ,compression and longevity. The question is what are you looking for: Higher RPM in the short run or consistent Power in the long run.
As you know from building Horse Power in engines. There is always a ''Tradeoff''