tele1974

Got my run in prop from Valley View today.  Also, got my EF Extra 300 78"... Absolutely, beautiful bird except for the shipping damage.   Set it up and tried to get the carb wet and it wasn't pulling fuel.  So, I replaced the line. Still no fuel pull.

I removed the carb  (didn't pay attention the gasket fell off) to find out if I put it on backwards when I inverted the carb.    Replaced it the right way if it was wrong.   It began to definitely move the fuel but it wouldn't  creep up the line unless I totally hand choked it.   Their were no bubbles in the line to tell me if was drawing after that.

I will hopefully fire it up tomorrow and see if its going draw fuel.

Rocketman_

I'm just curious as to how the MT-35 engine could be shipped directly from MT Engines USA with No user manual, no warranty information, not one word of instruction or answers to questions like,

1. What type of oil to use?
2. What break-in gas/oil ratio?
3. What after break-in gas/oil ratio?
4. What gasoline octane?
5. What types of spark plugs can be used?
6. Propeller size range?
7. What is that extra wire and connector for in the ignition package?
8. Was the ignition timing correctly set at the factory?
9. Is there a manual that can be downloaded from the MT Engines USA website?

I hope we're not expected to search the web and various forums to find answers while hoping that people are not just guessing at the answers.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Rocketman,

At least yours was packaged properly and complete with a new ignition. My ignition has no boot spring and doesn't have the extra tach lead.

Take the cylinder off and flush the crankcase out with two stroke mix a few times and see what comes out. The swarf and grit covered the bottom of a coffee can in a thin layer, looked like between 80 and 400 grit. Not good running through a new engine Maybe this is why you need to run new engines with extra oil and slowly.

Does your engine have one less cooling fin on the exhaust side and an unsupported exhaust flange on the bottom?

Email Tomy or Jack they will answer your questions.

Rocketman_

PlaneKrazee,
My engine has no cooling fin underneath the exhaust flange.

Did the second engine that you received contain the gritty contamination that you described above or was it in your first engine? In any case, that amount of grit will be a detriment to longevity and of considerable concern to customers and manufacturer alike.
I'll bet its not a lapping compund.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

The second engine had more junk in it than the first! I've flushed and oiled both of them. The first engine will still lock up and you can't continue to turn it in the same direction and must reverse rotation and then turn it thru. The intake and exhaust port edges and port interiors are very rough, but that may not matter. With a bit of straight oil in the cylinder the engine has good compression.

Anyway,

Hopefully I'll get to run #2 tomorrow.

airborne2.4

Hey guys, have a look at these:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrTp0x1sXcs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0fvY...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjb2p...eature=related

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

crazy stories about QC. I hope Valley View checks them over before shipment. I also do not want to mess with timing and putting it together. All I want to worry about is needle settings and getting it mounted on my airframe

I am holding out until Valley has them in stock and alerts us before I pull the trigger on one

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Generic two stroke operation manual....
The extra spring in the plug cap serves no practical purpose, it's a throwaway..
If you buy a tach it comes with a "Y" connector no extra wire needed....
ALL two stroke gassers are the same, use a good oil @ 32-1 forever...
Prop sizes vary with the airplane, 17 to 19 inch diameter, 6 to 8 or 10 pitch...
87 octane here in the US is just fine for ANY Chinese and most other engines..ZDZ might be the exception...
What else can there possibly be ????

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

As far as I'm aware of, South West RC Engines have the entire MT range.
They have been the MT dealer for quite a while and if I know them right, they carefully QC check everything they send out

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.southeastrcengines.com/

??

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

No Southwest RC, but it looks like all the Mt engines page has been removed.......

http://swrcengines.com/default.aspx

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

I installed a cheapo plastic intake venturi on the 35 using longer bolts. Tomorrow will be the day to run this engine and the DLE30.

My final concern about this engine is the lack of oil slots or holes at either end of the connecting rod. All other two strokes I've seen have some way of getting oil to the center of the con rod bearings. What do you guys think?

tele1974

Post deleted.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

The extra wire is not a battery lead, it's for the tach...Newest ignitions are labeled...Just got 20 yesterday, I KNOW what it's for...

Rocketman_

Antique and tele1974,

Thanks for your information and opinions.
I've been using Mobil Racing 2T synthetic at 32:1 in an MVVS 26cc (a company that provides instructions) for break-in and normal running. MVVS is adamant about using synthetic.
Has the MT-35 been in use long enough to confirm that it can survive hard running on a 50:1 mix? (MT Engines should know)
Should synthetic or mineral oil be used in the MT-35?
(MT Engines should know)

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Ralph I was thinking that at first too, but then I thought he may be talking about the loose 6" red pig tail that comes in the Rcexl pkg not the extra lead on the ignition itself. So now I am not sure which he was refering to.

Rocketman_

I was talking about the 8.25 inch red and black lead with a Futaba connector on one end and nothing on the other end.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Yes that is a pigtail they supply to solder onto a battery or switch if it has the wrong connector on it. I have a bag full of them now.

tele1974

Its not tuned.. but I got it running. And for me that is a minor miracle.

Yep I should have not said anything...their are others out their with far more experience that should have answered those questions. Taking it down. Was just trying to help.
Just to show you it will turn a prop.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGGrKro9VsA[/youtube]

Its a bear to start... My tach wasn't working very well. 6900 with a 18x10 Xoar

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Ran my engine today also. I didn't check the timing, left it the way it was. Started off with a Vess 19A prop, several heat cycles. 7700 rpm peak. Switched to Bolly carbon 18X10, 8100 rpm. Installed a Mejzlik 20X6 and continued to break-in. 20x6 peaked at 8400 rpm after 48 oz of fuel. The 20X6 is less load than the Vess 19A.

This engine makes more power than a OS160FX. I am impressed. SO regardless of the issues I found I would highly recommend the engine.

The Muffler is extremely LOUD!

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks for the update. Those are good numbers for a first day out! How would you compare the vibration level to the OS?

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

The OS is the smoothest 1.20-1.80 engine I've ever run. At this time I would guess the vibration of the MT35 is more like a Moki 2.10 but it needs more run time to see if it will smooth out a little more. Oh, the rpm of the Bolly was up to 8200 before I switched to the 20x6 and chances are it would spin the 19A a little faster also. The Vess is a high load prop, I was able to lean the carb out quite a bit with the other props.

I'm going to stick it on a old Ultra Stick to give it some air time after a few more hours on the bench.

lou1947

Engine sounds like a winner. I am thinking of getting another Crrc GF40i or getting one of these MT35. How do they compare? Whats theprice for the motor?What will it turn a 18X8 prop?

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

$279.00 shipped from Valley View RC.

I think a 18x8 is too small, depends on the brand and type. I have a APC 19x8W and a Mejzlik 20x8 I can install later today. We run the 20x8 on Moki 2.10 and get 7600-7800 rpm. It will be interesting to see what this engine can do.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Checked the timing and found the key way has 5 degrees of play. My engine is timed to 30 degrees or 35 if I don' adjust the prop driver ccw when installing the prop! The play at tdc you were feeling in your video may have been the slop in the propdriver. If you timed the engine to a max of 28 degrees and it's only running at 23 degrees that would equate to much less power.