You forgot a carburetor might be missing,,,, as well as what else planecrazee said,now im wondering if i timed my engine off the right cylinder ,looking forward,did i miss something? Maybe ill have to split the difference,or maybe not you did say that a degree or two dosent make a big difference ,as long as its close to 28 deg. but yes thats why i was really surprised that one would come with such an obvious missing part,im also reading that the little plugs dont perform as well as the semi costly rimfires.,and theres little issues like the sloppy fitting prop washer and ,a bolt that wont accomidate a spinner ?if each engine was completely assembled at the least,and shipped ,without being pre tested/ run,it would cure several issues i, even had one guy pm me about getting his started,,see this makes my point,its actually a great runner,,,but why let ,untested engines out it causes ,bad feelings ,and lots of people considering getting one of theese ,do browse ,theese forums to see what we are getting,

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<blockquote class="quote">quote:

ORIGINAL: Antique

Looks like a ltiile more QC is in order...
The cylinder bases MIGHT be machined differently...
The case MIGHT not be the same distance from the crank centerline to the cylinder base..
The con rod bores MIGHT not be the same from center to center..
The pistons MIGHT not be bored for the wrist pins the same..
The ports in the cylinders MIGHT not be the same...
The big end bearing bores in the crank MIGHT not be the same distance from the crank centerline..At least ONE of the above conditions exists....
Did I miss something ??
</blockquote>

The engine I received MIGHT be a total piece of DUNG. Not just missing the carb but the reed block too.

I was thinking the piston thing MIGHT be to keep the cylinder temps the same but the notchy binding at BDC? Shouldn't a new engine turn over smoothly? All other brands I have ever owned (BME50, BME110, DA100, even DL50 and DLE30) rotated smoothly. I had noticed the two 35's they sent had the piston movement off a little but this engine is grossly off.

I think it is time for Tomy to respond to this thread and Jack to send me another complete engine Express mail. If they don't have a "s" then send me a regular 70 and I'll change the cylinders myself. This is the second time they sent me junk and or an engine full of crap/missing parts. I wasn't in a hurry to fly the 35 so I didn't care however I've been waiting to replace my DL50 with this mt70s and now that I have it I still can't fly it.

Unit, Have you seen the offset link that connects the front and rear crank halves or the tiny bearing that holds the rear crank end? Also no oil holes, slots or notches in the con rod ends for lubrication and the rod side clearance is pretty tight so there's not a lot of oil getting in there.

If they can't get these issues resolved I will have to conclude this manufacturer, TOMY, knowingly sells junk and doesn't care.There is no quality control, manufacturing tolerances or pride in workmanship.

Thats some poor casting on the last picture.

That exhaust port looks about the same as one on my MT35 that I had to return. My first MT35 seized just by turning it over by hand so I returned it and my second MT35 had many problems. ie. missing a bolt that holds the cylinder to the case, bad looking casting of the cylinder, loose fitting prop drive, locking choke that does not work for RC, ect. I ended up returning the second engine as well, so between two engines I did not even manage to get a prop mounted. I did get my money back but I was still out $40 in shipping. I would recomend staying away from MT until the QC improves dramaticly.

Guys I have one of the MT 70s and have been beating very hard!!! It works great! So the casting are not as nice as the ones on my BME 116. So What!

But a ask my self how much did it cost. 1/3 rd the cost of a us made engine since it came with exhaust. I feel it is a good value. Time will only tell how long any thing will last when we put it to use.

[&:]

mines is hucking up a storm too ,but the issues are real ,some small ,some need to be addressed immediately.

mbinkley,

You have the straight plug MT70 with cm6 plugs.


Did your engine rotate smoothly out of the box? Mine is notchy and binding at BDC. One piston is 1mm shorter than the other from the ring to the top of the piston which WILL cause imbalance in both compression and weight plus one cylinder will run hotter. There is less than 1mm of clearance on the con rods and no way oil is going to get into the needle bearings. If MT engines adds oil holes, slits or notches to new production what about the engine I bought? Am I sh!+ out of luck?

The engine bolt pattern matches the DA 50 not the DLE55. The 70s is about 35mm longer than the DL50.

If Tomy desires long term success selling engines he must tighten manufacturing tolerances and add quality control. I didn't buy this engine on price, I bought it because it would fit my cowl and it's supposed to make about the power maybe more than a DA50. I would gladly pay 30% or even 50% more for an engine that has been properly engineered with high quality materials, beta tested, has been test run at the factory, and will be upgraded free of charge like a DA.

IMO the little 1/4-32 plugs are too expensive and fragile for a serious IMAC competitor to bother with and they will not purchase this engine because of this. If Tomy wants that market he will need to copy the EVO 26GX style combustion chamber and add the heavily slanted CM6 plugs or do something similar to incorporate the cm6 plug.

I have nothing against Tomy, Jack or MT Engines. On the contrary, I wish them well. Good intentions and well wishes will not build quality engines. I have been doing a bunch reading about MT Engines. Quality control has never been a strong suit of this company.

The "s" version cylinders are a new production run yet the cylinder in the photo clearly has a poorly cast exhaust port which is one of the items I pointed out with the 35. The DLE castings are far superior and the cost is close enough MT should be rejecting such parts.

PlaneKrazee


Hope all is well. My MT 70 is the cm-6 version. Out of the box I did note some small porosity in the castings. The workings of the engine where very smooth free of all binding with the plugs out also very clean in side. With the plugs in the compresion was fare. I must say this had me thinking that it mite not have the low end tork I was looking for but after 2 gallons of fuel I have to say this engine is a beast and very smooth lots of power and an exlent low end power band. The compression is very good now as well!

We all should share are input with Tomy and MT so they can grow and change if they see fit.

I will run my temp sencers to see what the temps are on both heads are and report back. From experice I know on twins the head temps very and it is hard to get both to run at same temps.

I put a 3w 90 degree intake with a pause pump line over the week end. So I can have consitant pressure over the carb. Im flying my plane cowl less now durning back in. The intake made the engine even more constant in the low end also faster throdle responce.

The engine looked clean inside but I removed the cylinders and flushed the crankcase out. Got a fair amount of grit and aluminum flakes. While the cylinders were off I cleaned up the exhaust ports a little and then flushed them too. I reinstalled the cylinders and found the cylinder bolts were too long and bottoming out. I cut them down and chamfered the ends. Tomy said he assembled it at Toledo from a mt70 case and "s" cylinders but I still don't understand why the tappings were not deep enough. The screws that came with the 70 are the same length as used on the MT35.


Anyway, the notchy feel happens when both cylinders are torqued down evenly. If I loosen the carb side bolts on the rear cylinder the notchy binding goes away. Any suggestions?

Now that I have the carb/reed block I can make a 2 into 1 header and see how it will work with a KS 86 can. It might be better with a JMB can.

well we have all concluded quality control is an issue,that should have been addressed a long time ago,,i may be wrong,but if tommy chooses not to implement better standards,,it may well be his loss.

I have a 27% Gee Bee Y and was counting on using an MT70. Thought it would be perfect. Guess I'll have to bite the bullet and get twin a little larger or smaller.

To many QC issues with this engine. Too bad. If anyone has a recommendation, let me know please.

Thanks to all who have posted here....


Lane

If it's notchy at TDC one of the pistons is hitting the combustion chamber..Should be AT LEAST .020 clearance...use some thin solder in the plug hole, rotate the crank, measure the solder...

It's notchy at BDC.

Mr. Grump,

Buy one and see how it is. Maybe I just have bad luck. Of course misery loves company

I will run this engine, Tomy says there is nothing wrong with it.

OK, maybe a piston skirt is hitting the crank web....

All I know is if I loosen the two cylinder bolts on the rear cylinder on the carb side a little it goes away but I can't fly it like that. Tomy says it's fine so I guess I'll fly it and grind off whatever is hitting.[>:]

Mr Grump,

My Mt 70 was well worth the small things. This engine is so power full with the best low end of all my gassers and I only have 2 gallons through it!!

But I must say it is not my first twin. I had to over come some of the same things with my other name brand one in the 100cc class.

Don't be so fast to kick some thing good to the curb[:@]

Sachs Dolmar chainsaw cranks look like that, no holes or slots...A little more side clearance..

Thanks Everyone.

For now, I'll wait and keep reading. You guys keep posting. I'd hate to miss a great engine at a great price.

My issue is I don't have the engine experience you guys do so minor issues to you could be a big problem to me. I don't know how to check the things you do nor do I know how to disassemble and flush and engine properly.

Whatever I buy, I need it to be as reliable as possible and ready to break in.

Thanks

Lane

Did you straight edge everything on the block and the bottom of the jugs before you put it together. Could you see the carb bolts protruding into the block? Common sense would say either a bolt is protruding and hitting something in the rotation dept, or having the bolts tightened to spec is causing some kind block distortion. 2 small screws shouldn't cause distortion in this situation. Who knows though. Did the binding happen with the jugs off? I wouldn't start it till you found the issue. Maybe it is the nature of these engines. If I had one I would check. But seeing some of the things you posted I too will wait a little longer to see other reviews. I was really looking forward to buying this motor next week.

Cost isn't an issue for me, casting issue's i can fix, but possible distortion issues, possible plug issues, bolts not bottoming and and needing to be shortened, or a carb missing is. I have faith this is a good company, and I really want this motor. But I am too busy to futz with a cranky motor. Understandable bad parts happen, but the end user should never see it. That is why all my customers never get items drop shipped, I ship everything to me, test it, and send it. Having shavings in a new unrun motor is unacceptable as well if what your saying is true.

Piece of mind and a happy customer beats having a better overhead. Who knows I might be wrong, but i have a conchince and thats why I wont ever be rich.

Lane,

With any luck Valley View RC will be carrying the 70. They will run the engine for you and make sure all is good before you get it. Jack at MTENGINESUSA.com needs to start doing this before he ships stuff out. Chances are my engine will be ok after whatever is messed up beats itself out of my engine. It will be interesting to see how long the 1/4-32 plugs last and how easily they foul. I remember a guy trying to fly his Supertiger 3250 conversion. It always fouled the plug. I get to be the guinea pig. I'm going to try to run the engine with the stock mufflers tomorrow even if I don't get to fly it. I need to relocate the throttle servo. The engine is mounted on five layers of 5-ply 1/4" birch plywood bored out and cut to the shape of the backplate.

Shavings no, aluminum flecks and grit, yes. It's all true. The carb wasn't mounted when it was binding.

Tomy has an excellent product here. With tighter tolerances and better quality control he will have the replace the 50cc with twin market. He needs to have a US distributor that will inspect and run all engines before the end user get ahold of them. If Jack could do this then Tomy has what he needs. All the current engines should be flushed out before running. You'd be suprised what comes out. I need to photogragh the papertowel I used to wipe out the bowl after I flushed it the first time. I always do it twice to make sure I got it all. The twin it needs to be flushed intake down, not mount down otherwise all the grit and stuff will go into rear bearing, ask me how I know. I had to rock the crank back and forth and dunk and dunk to get it all out.

What HE needs to do is ship the parts unassembled to a dealer who will inspect the parts and assemble correctly, and send the screwed up parts back, at HIS expense...Problem solved, or no more business..Works like a charm...
Milton tried to get his supplier to do this, neva happen....
Anyone wants to see this in action, check out toni-clark.com, with Zenoah engines...
Ever see a Zenoah with problems that weren't caused by the owner ?? Also neva happen...
Been there for 23 YEARS....
Owner caused problems include not adjusting the carb, and not using good oil...
OH, and following the MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS regarding prop sizes and starting procedures are a big help...[>:]

A friend was planning to purchase one these at Toledo, the display engine had the same same problem, tight at BDC. I talked my friend into waiting before taking the jump. My reasoning to him was if they can't take the time to make the Toledo display engine good, what makes you believe any of production models are better? The asian man behind the table said it was tight because of compression, I showed him the exhaust port, laughed and walked away. Another person at our club bought one at Toledo, he wanted the S version, they gave him the S heads and asked that he send the straight heads back to TBM once he makes the change. Wonder if his warranty is intact? I hope it works out for him, I rather take my $420 to the Rivers Casino in Pittsburgh, I can loose it there just as quick.

Tony,

Tomy the owner of MT was the asian man at the show.

That explains a lot. My Engine IS the one that was displayed. Tomy installed the "s" cylinders on it after the show to take photos, sent the engine to Jack to ship to me. You would think the display engine would be flawless. You showed Tomy the engine is screwed up and he ignores what you say then sends it to me and says there is nothing wrong with it!

Hard to follow manufactures instructions when the engine comes with nothing!

Regarding the binding,

If I leave the forward exhaust side cylinder screw loose it doesn't bind as bad. It feels like the needle bearings are binding do to a misalignment of the cylinder/crankcase.