shaddow

Well in my manual at least they fixed the weight numbers on 30CC size.

stevenchao

Only the North American version will have a different manual.

Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

GEORGE_32

ok ...and how i can understand that is the north american version ???? how i can understand that is the north american manual ???
i have found the MLD35 IN THE RCFUNS88 AND IS THE LOWST PRICE THAT I CAN FIND IT...and by the way ... now i have realize that MLD35 IS my only path for the peakmodel sbach 342 ... beacuse is tail heavy...steven do you know if this shop sells the europe engines or not???
thanks!!!

shaddow

Hi George

I have found out that ALL are the same engines.
there isnt any difference between the American/Europe or Asian version.

It is basically the same engine at all locations. !!!

don't listen  to people that say that the engines are different those people have a inner interest that you will buy from them.
The only difference that can be is setting the mixture screws. (for different fuel octane)

stevenchao

Shaddow, there is a difference, but I still like your posts... nice build thread (good info and pics).


Peace,
Steve Chao,
CERMARK

stevenchao

Hi George,

I noticed that you are in Europe (Greece). I don't believe you will benefit from having a North American version, in fact it will probably perform worse. I sent you an email for additional info. I don't know of the shop that you speak of. The most important thing is that you trust the shop/dealer you purchase from, because if you have issues you will need to get services from them. I would say that is where you will be spending your $ ultimately.

We see much grey market engine through our door. It is amazing of the stories we hear, and the complaints that we absorb on behalf of dealers that don't serve their customers. Just make certain you feel confident with your seller. That is 95% of the battle. For your information, here is a quote from www.tripatlas.com (http://tripatlas.com/Octane_rating) regarding Regional Fuel Variation;

"Octane ratings can vary greatly from region to region. For example, the minimum octane rating available in much of the United States is 87 AKI and the highest is 93. In the Rocky Mountain (high altitude) states, 85 octane is the minimum octane and 91 is the maximum octane available in fuel. The reason for this is that in higher-altitude areas, a typical combustion engine draws in less air per cycle due to the reduced density of the atmosphere. This directly translates to reduced absolute compression in the cylinder, therefore deterring knock. It is safe to fill up a car with a carburetor that normally takes 87 AKI fuel at sea level with 85 AKI fuel in the mountains, but at sea level the fuel may cause damage to the engine. In some east coast states, up to 94 AKI is available. In parts of the Midwest (primarily Minnesota, Illinois and Missouri) ethanol based E-85 fuel with 105 AKI is available.

California fuel stations will offer 87, 89, and 91 octane fuels, and at some stations, 100 or higher octane, sold as racing fuel. Up until 2003 or 2004, 92 octane was offered in place of 91.

Generally, octane ratings are higher in Europe than they are in North America and most other parts of the world. This is especially true when comparing the lowest available octane level in each country. In many parts of Europe, 95 RON (90-91 AKI) is the minimum available and the standard, with 97/98 being premium or "super" (except Italy, which hasn't adopted it because of its pollution) . In Australia, "regular" unleaded fuel is RON 91, "premium" unleaded with RON 95 is widely available, and RON 98 fuel is also reasonably common. Shell sells RON 100 petrol from a small number of service stations and most of which are located in capital cities. In other countries "regular" unleaded gasoline, when still available, is sometimes as low as 85 RON (still with the more regular fuel - 95 - and premium around 98 available.) In Russia and CIS countries 80 RON (76 AKI) is the minimum available and the standard."


Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Most of the previous post came from . . . .
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

shaddow

Hi

Well didnt finish yet, still need to open some vent holes, but you can see my progress..

GEORGE_32

thanks steven ....well ..because i dont want to push my luck i will use the 95 octane... as i have understand ... in the cars there is auto timing so ... if it will start pregnition ..and detonation ... the ecu of the car can modify ... the ignition slightly to prevent ...this... condition ....anyway something more important!!! is it good to start from the first time to use a full synthetic oil or the first gallons have to be with semi synthetic... so the metals inside in the cylinder mate better ??? ( of course i know that for some gallons you need higher percentage of oil ...)
thanks!!!

stevenchao

George, In your case, you want to avoid the North American version. Don't worry about the fuel you use in Greece. It will be fine. As for breaking-in oil misture, go with the oil mfg recommendation. In our case, we provide all of our engines with a pillow case of AMSOIL Sabre Professional, which mix at 100-1. We have never had any engine burn out on us. There are people who will thicken the mixture... To each is their own. However, I will suggest that using a slightly thicker mixture will not help the engine. It will feel sluggish.

On the other hand, it will jump dramatically as you thin out the oil. Penns Air Cool is another long time favorite of ours. That one is 32-1 at break-in and then move to 45/50-1 after break-in. Remember, this is about enjoyment of flying, not constant tinkering with your engine. Get it set and go fly the heck out of it. You will enjoy it.

Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

Jimeni

I used AMSoil sabre @ 100:1 in my MLD 28. Switched to Stihl ultra HP @ 50:1. I saw a slight drop in RPM's, but the big thing is, it starts harder on the Stihl @ 50:1, alot harder. I switched back to AMSoil. Running Stihl in my DLE 55, so I guess I'll be carrying 2 gas cans

Got My MLD 35 today. Going to put it in a 74" Fliton Extra 330, that my 28 is currently in. A little under powered with the 28. The 35 should put a little pep in her. Getting a 70" for the 28. May not be able to get to it for a couple of weeks, but I'll put up pics as I install it. 20x8 vess, of course. THERE IS NO OTHER PROP. Once a Mej user tries one, they never go back!!

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

Steven what do you mean with American Version?.

awesome

My Feedback: (1)

Bought 2 MLD 35's , one for me and one for a fellow club member from Himodel. Both of them have dud ignitions , they produce huge interference to the radio , enough to wipe out all control. Sent mine back to Himodel for warranty replacement , my fellow club member fitted a RCEXL ignition to his and his is running fine. Got mine back 2 days ago , MINE! I put a mark on the case before i sent it back and , you guessed it ,they sent mine back! This is after sending me an email telling me they had no stock of ignitions on hand and i would have to wait 2 months for stock to arrive. They went on to say that they could replace it immediately if they took one out of a new engine box , but they would only do this if i bought another item from them , so that they could put the " new" ignition in with my item. I bit and bought a couple of new props and now they have sent me back my old ignition.
I have just purchased a new RCEXL ignition and will fit it when it arrives.
I don't know what you guys think , but i think Himodel just got their last dollar out of me. [:@]
Any MLD 35 users experience any problems with their ignitions? Anybody want a free spare or two?

DaleD

I was thinking seriously about purchasing this engine until Iexperienced a second ignition failure on my MLD-28. The first failure was replaced by Chief Aircraft but, to be honest, Icant be bothered with the time itwill taketo call Chief Aircraft, order and pay for a new ignition, arrange shippingof the replacementand return of the defective ingition between Jamaica and California,and await the refund which took quite a while. I too have gone ahead and ordered an RCEXLignition which Ihope to receive in a week.

GEORGE_32

what kind of radio you are using ...(2,4ghz) or 72mhz ?? also what kind of battery you had for the ignition ...?? how many volts.. because the advertise that it can take a 2s lipo direct
did you try to alter the setup ..to solve the problem ????
thanks in advance ....

GEORGE_32

wich rcxl ignition bought your frind ?? just to know ..if somethings happens.... also ...as i have see you can replace the champion plug with the ngk cm6 from the internet is interchechable

awesome

My Feedback: (1)

Radio was Hitec A9 , A123 1100mah batteries on ignition. BTW , the MLD 35 was timed at 42 degrees BTDC! I have subsequently set timing to 30 deg btdc with the RCEXL ignition fitted.Also changed to a CM6 spark plug to keep in line with the rest of my engines. Engine is in a 72 inch Yak 54 , i was going to maiden it last weekend , but we've been having very stormy weather the last few weeks , so maybe this weekend. Got 7200 rpm with a Mejzlik 20 x 8 on a new engine, not too bad so far. Also i am running my own s/steel header and can muffler , got 98db on noise test , we are only allowed 96db max , so might have to try some new props once i've got some flights in. My friends MLD 35 was pulling about 104 db on the noise test with the std muffler! Sadly he decided to let the club pro do the maiden flight , the pro destroyed his Extra on take off , looked like he was on high rates on aileron and fought to keep the wings level , ended up with a giant snap roll into the deck. Model totally destroyed , but surprisingly the engine didn't even get a scratch on it.Looked pretty strong on takeoff power wise , all for about four seconds. Have the engine on the bench next to me as i'm typing , he wants me to check for a bent crank , we'll see , but i think it will be fine.
I'm not really bothered about the std ignitions being dud , it happens , and i'd much rather run the RCEXL any way as the rest of my engines have been trouble free on them. Don't know what the problem is with the MLD ignitions though , pity as i like the input voltage range , i run a couple of diodes inline with RCEXL ignitions with A123 batteries to drop the input voltage to spec. Keep you guys posted.
Leon

awesome

My Feedback: (1)

George32 the RCXEL igniton is the standard 10mm CM6 type available anywhere on the net , i paid about $75 Australian each for 2 of them. They come complete with new hall sensor and a couple of sensor brackets , i used the small one. You can just get 30degrees btdc using the std mounting holes for the sensor if you file the slots on the sensor bracket a couple of mm so it's retarded to the max. Use a degree wheel and 10mm x 1mm bolt as a piston stop to get true top dead centre on your wheel. Both of our engines were timed to spark at 42 degrees before top dead centre. I don't know if the MLD ignition is meant to run with this much advance , but the RCXEL is meant to be between 28 to 30 degrees.
I didn't try to alter the location of the equipment to solve the interfereance problem because it was so severe. The RCXEL is mounted in the same spot and i now have over 100m range in low power mode , to be honest i think it has more than that but you only get 90 seconds range test with the Aurora 9 and i ran out of time. So i'd say were set to go for the maiden flight if the weather is kind enough this weekend.
Leon.

GEORGE_32

THANKS FOR THE REPLY!! did this motor was the american version ..??? in the manual had any info ..that is for us ??
BECAUSE as some one told me ... there are versions for US AND versions for all other world.. (maybe because of the fuel used... we have minimum 95 unleaded fuel and go then to 98 and 100 octane )
also FOR ..the MLD35 THE ORIGINAL SENSOR COULD NOT ADJUST ???
THANKS!!!!

GEORGE_32

I AM INTRESTING TO BUY THIS MOTOR ...how it worked in 31 advance ..do you think that you have to buy other like rcxl to solve the timing problems...and to work in 28-30
or you can just buy a bracket sensor so to lower the advance in 28-30 degree in othe forums people complain that they had strong interference + the timming was at 42 degree and they had to change to rcxl ignition ...
thanks

GEORGE_32

about the pro .....[:'(][:'(][:'(] THE PRO IS PRO ..IN HIS AIRPLANE THAT HAS FLOWN MANY TIMES....AND ADJUST IN HIS LIKE. A PRO IS NOT A PRO ...IN A AIRPLANE DIFFERENT OR WITH DIFFERENT SETUP ... of course the wrong setup was a disaster ..YOU HAD OR YOUR FRIEND TO PREFLIGHT CHECK THE AIRPLANE ( for example me i had forget to reverse the elevator servo ... but i was lucky ...only prop ...had a small damage....[X(][X(]
I STILL CANT UNDERSTAND WHY THEY BUILD A NEW ENGINE WITH FAULT IN ADVANCE TIMING... PLUS THE STRONG INTERFERENCE

GEORGE_32

SO ....is the problem or the differance of north american version .. and the other engines in the timing that they have??? as i have understand if you have lower octane gas engine you just advance the timing more( american version ??) and the european version that the gas octane is higher ( for me we start from 95 octane ) the timming is lower???
thanks!!!

awesome

My Feedback: (1)

George 32 , Sorry i don't know about different versions to suit different octane fuels. Sounds strange to me as these engines have very low compression to start off with. I've run model two strokes off of 2 year old fuel with no problems before , not that i recommend the practice of course. You will find 28 to 30 degrees the ideal advance to run with your engines. I guess that you will have to factor the cost of purchasing a new RCXEL ignition into the cost. Don't know if others have had the same problem with the MLD ignition , but we have with both engines. We have given up on them for the proven RCXEL .
Your right , the PRO isn't much of a PRO in my book. I spoke with the member who lost the plane the other day and he regrets not doing the maiden flight himself. He was quick to point out that he doesn't have any ill will towards "the pro" , he's currently putting another model together to try again. Looks like a maiden is a no go for me this weekend , the weather is not clearing up till mid week here and i only have Saturday or Sunday's to fly . Maybe next weekend.
Take care , Leon.[8D]

stevenchao

awesome... Sorry to hear that you have had such bad experience. You should remind Himodel of your expectation and their warranty. In the meantime you should let the mfg know of your experience from one of their Chinese distributor. Melody is interseted in maintaining their reputation.

There is a limited adjustment with the timing. I believe you can advance or retard by approximately 3 degrees.

North American versions are engines specifically deigned with Cananda, USA and Mexico in mind. They will run different than those not North American. It is not that they are better or worse. It is that they are designed specificaly for thses regions.


Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK

awesome

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Steven , not to worry , we are not. We've just come to our own solution based on the time / hassle of obtaining a new ignition , easier for us here to get our hands on a RCXEL unit. Engine runs sweet on the ground , just wish the wind and rain would go away.Will post some pics and results with different props as i have another two to try apart from the 20 x 8 Mejzlik i already had.
Leon.