qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

I recently bought my first petrol engine for a plane that was given to me by a club member. I've had plenty of nitro engines now and have a few years of experience with all kinds of them and rebuilding etc. But I have a few questions about gas now since I'm completely new to it. I could post some pics if it would help but I think you can all understand this, is the high speed or the low speed needle valve the one closer to the prop? Is there even a high and low speed needle? Do they need adjustment? The manual says to leave `em alone but nitro engines need high speed adjustments daily for temperature and what not. And how much of a turn would be required to run it a lil bit rich for break in? I always break in ALL of my engines on a test stand rather then on the airframe or in flight. So I built up a massive test stand and I got all the equipment necessary to start up my gasser, even the fuel is mixed. But I would really like to know which needle to adjust and how much if at all before I go and melt my engine. I'm running a Zinger 20x8 wood prop on it because that's what they had at my lhs but I'm not sure about it. I never used wood props before only apc and ma and some electrics. The prop seems kinda thin and i don't want to break it so I didn't tighten the prop nut down as much as I think it should be because I'll break the prop, which is like $25 so i don't want to be $50 into props before my engine even starts. How much do I need to torque down the prop because on my .45 nitro engine I just tighten down that apc as hard as I can. One last thing, this engine only has 1 prop bolt going through the center of the prop like all my smaller engines, but do they make really big spinners that are grippy like that on both sides? I'd like to get on a nice polished aluminum or cf spinner, and can I use a cf prop on this non bolt-through prop hub design? I think it might crack the prop if it's cf. Just another engine nooby here so be nice xD.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There are three adjustment screws on the carb. One screw, you can see both ends of it, is the idle speed screw. Some people remove this one.

The other two are side by side. The one closest to the engine is the low speed and the other one is the high speed.

The high speed needle only effects the carb when the throttle is wide open.

lou1947

As W8YE posted the tewo adjustments are near the intake manifold. The one closest to the cylinder is the low adjustment,the he one further away is the high end adjustment.(one easy way to remember is that the low adjustment is not as tall as the high end adjustment needle)I woild start the motor at the factory settings and then adjust from there. You would adjust this motor just as you did your two cycle nitro models. The adjustments are very minute and usually only takes about a!/8 to 1/4 of a turn. The prop shaft is threaded on the inside and you could use a regular spinner. I would torque down the prop as much as you can. You will not break the wood prop and it may prevent the prop from coming off and hurting some body. Good luck with your new gasser.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The hole in the prop shaft for the spinner bolt is typically threaded 5mm

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

On The CRRC 40 it's 4m x .7

qwertypemdas, you would benefit greatly from reading here first.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8673009/tm.htm

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

wow. I didn't notice the inside was threaded and tat was a GREAT help jody. i has a typo about the needles, i meant which one is closer to the crank case not prop, would people remove the idle screw so they can set the idle with their trim easier or can they sometimes kill the engine like that without using the switch or something? After I read that big FAQ post about gas engines for jody I'm Kinda scared of doing anything... lol

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Don't be scared just forget everything you ever knew about glow engines, gas is much easier.

The low speed needle is always the one closest to the engine, or the one with the little "L" right next to it. The high speed needle is designated with an "H" as well. Use the CRRC instructions to assemble the engine only then throw them away, set the needles at 1-3/4 for the "H" and 1-1/4 for the "L". Start the engine, warm it up, and adjust from there. Adjust for peak performance, do not run the engine rich for break-in or any other reason, it will just cause problems and poor running quality.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, I just spent maybe 20min trying to start the engine and here was my procedure. I did all my safety stuff and wore a nice thick glove, it's pretty hot out for north Idaho, maybe 80-85 degrees. So I prime the engine with my thumb over the intake and then put on the choke and start flippin the prop with the ignition hot. I Flip it maybe 10-20 times at a time with no pops before going and priming some more and then trying to start it without choke and checking everything and repeating. I'm getting a good spark on my powerful 6volt pack but i didn't get one pop from the engine... idk what it is, how much does the engine need priming? any recommendations, does it just take forever to start for the first time? I'm really antsy to get this thing fired up but i don't wont to mess something up. All the parts were thoroughly inspected by me before assembly and everything is all tight and assembles nice. I cut down one of the bolts for the carb mount because it was a smidge to long (quite a large smidge for an engine) looked like it would have broke something if I assembled it without gazing at it every few seconds a better assembler type person just going really fast could have broke the carb or something. Is this a known problem or did i get 2 long bolts or something? Any way I'll set the needles to what you said jody and I'll try start again this evening. One more thing, do these engines need after run oil or do they need to be run dry or how do you store them? I always run my nitro's dry otherwise they rust cuz the nitro take water out the air. It really looks nicer than my nitro engines with that big wood prop on it xD.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

I have NEVER out of all my nitro's had a problem starting a nitro engine, all my engine are primed 14 turns with thumb over carb and then 1 lil flick of the prop with the glow driver on and they fire right up, i can even flick it backwards and they will fire right up in the right direction. I guess I might be spoiled by nitro but I really can't get this thing to start. What throttle setting is good for starting? I close it until it hits the idle screw at the factory setting. Should I start it a lil more open? And if I remove that screw then can I kill the engine by just lowering the throttle?

azalner

My Feedback: (8)

Stop priming the engine, remember Jodi told you to forget about nitro engines.

First, You gotta check the ignition timing. CRRC is notorious for having the timing way off. You mentioned 6 volts on your ignition, a fully charged 6 volt battery can output 7 volts - enough to screw up your auto advance. Set the static timing for 28 deg BTDC by using a degree wheel and watching where it fires the spark plug.

To start, go full choke with ignition on and about 1/4 throttle. Flip the prop till it pops. Take the choke off and flip it till it starts.

tryan02

I had the same problems although it was my second gas engine. The first thing that allowed me to get it started was an NGK plug the stock plug barely made it through break-in. Then later on down the road I found the RCEXCEL ignition was worth its weight in gold.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

ok, sounds good I'll try again in a bit

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, just got back from another session of trying to start it. Nothing, zilch, zero. No pops no nothing. The plug is getting wet and there is good spark and I've got maybe 30min of flicking the prop and still nothing. I spark plug gap is .022 and it has good spark i think, tried 6volts and 5.5 volts and there has been not one pop of an ignition at all. tried everything and all throttle settings and the timing is write... maybe i need 4.8 battery pack? I'm cantankerously flustered... any suggestions from the veterans?

lou1947

Try using a starter. I have two of these motors and they were hard to start till they were broken in. The motor should fire. Keep us posted.

lou1947

Also forgot to say that when you flip the motor do it like you hate it.One quick flip.

tryan02

I thought I had good spark with CRRC ignition also then I setup the RCEXCEL ignition and found it was twice as strong as stock. I have felt your pain 4hs siting in the grass at the field wishing I could fly.

before I bought the ignition I was able to really lean the engine prime the heck out of it holding thumb in carb till fuel ran out then the NGK plug would start it up. But idle was terrible throttle response was marginal and every landing was deadstick.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

hmmm, looking like im going to spend about what i paid for it to get it to run now... maybe $70 rcexl ignition and new plug plus shipping, got the engine for $112 on ebay but hey, get what ya pay for. I at least want to get it started. I'll try something tomorrow maybe, kinda disappointed.

tryan02

I didnt want to tell you this from the get go but I was very disappointed with mine spent the money to get it running then the crankshaft broke on me in the air. I barely saved my plane I will be replacing the crankshaft in mine and hope to get a $150 out of it with plug and RCEXCEL ignition. Unless you would like to make a deal beforehand? BTW I got my engine for $220 built it myself and the ignition and plug so I had close to $300 so dont feel bad. My DLE30 is supposed to arrive today I hope I have better luck with it but if not at least it's warrantied for 2 years through Hobbico and tower hobbies.

Prop_Washer2

My Feedback: (26)

If you have a spark on ANY gas engine, whether a Big Block 585 inch drag racer, or a small RC engine, just shoot one shot of this crap anywhere near the carb intake, and IT WILL FIRE UP..!! You can raise a Dead Horse with starting fluid. You can buy it at any Wal-Mart, Auto Zone, Car Parts plces etc...

Like I say, if your ignition puts out a spark, then this will give you a 2-3 second run to try and help figure things out, and also to get your gasoline supply going to the carb. Starting Fluid; Don't leave home without it...!!!

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

Hmmm. I'll try flipping the prop REALLY hard today and maybe starting fluid but that seems like it might be bad for the engine? I tried my lil hobbico electric starter but it's for .40 nitro's so it turned over the big one but barely and the wires were getting hot. Is that NGK really gonna make a difference? It would have the same spark and same materials and design really I think so what's the big fuss? I need some ideas, i really want to get this thing running.

tryan02

The NGK is better than the stock plug Chances are you have flooded the stock one enough to weaken it. I use a sullivan 12-24v starter with a 4S lipo to turn my 40cc over with ease. I needed that kind of power from a starter cause before I bought the new ignition hand propping was insane!!! By the time I got it running my arm was too tired to fly.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I'll just try and start it the same way again today and see if i can get it to work before i buy anything for it. It's seems more startable after sitting over night, lol

Prop_Washer2

My Feedback: (26)

Like I say, just a whif of the starting fluid any where near the carb intake, and if your ignition is working, it will run for a little, perhaps enough to get your settings figured out. On a way out of tune or sick engine, I use an intermittent spray to keep it running perhaps a burst every 3 seconds or so. It's just ether, and burns off of real fast. No damage should occur at all. People use it on boats 2 & 4 stroke, cars, lawnmowers, chain saws, weed whackers, edgers, leaf blowers, etc... Most of which are gas engines very similar to your RC motor...

Stop buy your local auto store or Wally World and pick up a can and give it a shot..!!!

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

Prop Washer, man you should be a used car sales man. I think that's the best possible option, I'll go check out some stores today! Once i get a few combustions I'm sure it will run, sounds great hope it works xD

Prop_Washer2

My Feedback: (26)

Let me know how it works out...