skyriter

Just starting to install a DLE 20 into a Seagull Extra 260. Will be mounting it inverted. Did you put in any right thrust? Appears that the motor box does not have any?

Thanks

Bruce

montanacharlie

My Feedback: (1)

Not at first. However on the maiden doing a upline it did go left a little. So I ended up putting a 1/32 plywood shim underneath the pilots left motor mount. That was enough to make the uplines straight.

Charlie

Ttaylor63

My Feedback: (16)

What spark plug can i replace the stock plug with on DLE 20

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

According to sparkplugs dot com, the equivalent of the NGK CM-6 is either a Champion Y82 or a Denso U20MU. Hope they're right, cause I just ordered two Champions. (though my NGK seems to be working fine so far).

mblackwell1002

Here you go, pics from camera phone...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It is best to use the NGK CM-6 plug as the others are not exactly the same size

boostoman

i was wandering if someone can help me.

It seems i have a tuning issue with my DLE 20. the engine idles well and it's giving me great top end RPM and alot the transition is without hesitation. the problem im having is that is i push up the throttle from idle to full power the engine switches off. what are the remedies for this?

helodrvr

My Feedback: (88)

richen up the low speed needle

boostoman

thanks for the info. would it be beause of the ignition? because i changed over my plug from the DLE plug to the NGK plug. and can you advice me what plug gap to use. (please specify the unit ot measure)

helodrvr

My Feedback: (88)

plug gap is around .020" inches or 0.5mm. You indicated your engine would just die, when advancing the throttle. That is normally an indication of a lean low needle.

boostoman

so it has nothing to do with the ignition?

bgee

Just wondering how the DLE 20 would perform on a Seagull Spacewalker 120.

Specifications :

•Wingspan: 2100mm (82.7")
•Length: 1490mm (58.7")
•Weight: 5kg
•Engine: 120 - 150 4 stroke

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

At 11 lbs the DLE20cc will fly it just fine!

Only two areas of concern, both to do with the L-G;

First off Seagull models L-G seems made out of the crappiest aluminum in the world! They bend/fatigue far too easily.

Secondly, the stock L-G may be too short for the better props this DLE20cc can use. Specifically the 16-17" props. You should look into better(stronger) L-G, and taller too.

For some make your own L-G and CHEAP too;
Stop by your local County or State Highway Dept facility, and see if they'll let you have a scrapped roadsign destined for the recycle bin.
Find someone with a table saw with a carbide tipped blade, and cut out strips the width of the stock L-G. Cut to length, bend as needed, drill as needed, and presto....almost FREE L-G, better than stock!!!

SpinnerRow

I usually make my own landing gear and I get the aluminum from Home Depot or Lowes. They have 1.25" and 1.5" wide and 1/8" thick aluminum in three foot lengths. Earlier in this thread I posted a few pics of how I make my own.

helodrvr

My Feedback: (88)

boostoman,

From the symptoms that you described, no it has nothing to do with the ignition. It is a tuning problem.

regets ama

My Feedback: (4)

Aeroworks 60/90 with the DLE 20 winter project.

Report to follow when the snow clears.

Carb Settings at manual recommendations and runs fine in the garage.

Now I just need some confirmation on the correct CG, alot of opinions and suggestions on where to measure.

regets ama

My Feedback: (4)

oh, and if someone could clue me in on why my post pictures are out of bounds,,,,,,,excuse the IT issue

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

You might consider some 3/8 tri stock on either the upper or lower part of where the horizontal stab joins the fuse.

Easy add on is to cut and sand your tristock to the length, draw around it with a fine tip marker on the existing covering.....cover the outside of your tri stock....peel off the covering where joined....use 5 minute epoxy and you are done...maybe some clean up...

On my 58 inch Slide profile I should have done the tri stock thing... but didn't....the gasser pulled the glue joint loose on the slab in a few flights....plane already had a bunch of Saito 100 flights on it....just sayin".....

regets ama

My Feedback: (4)

Good think'n, I'll add the triangle support,,,,,,,,

i think even my 40 MOJO had that as a stock part of the build

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Back one page.....Post #: 2556

regets ama

My Feedback: (4)

yes, i saw that, the attachment wouldnt open unfortunately.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Those two colored lines of text are hot links, not attachments.
Both opened fine here. Just run your mouse pointer over them then double-click on each one.

Takes you right to the AeroWorks Support section here on RCU.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_428/tt.htm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_96...m.htm#10036704

Indiomike

My Feedback: (5)

DLE20 will be going into a AW 60/90 300XL

I want to use a 2300 mAh 2s1P battery pack to supply power to both receiver and ignition. Being that this battery is 6.6 volts nominal and even 7.2 volts just after a full charge, I must reduce the voltage that goes to the ignition module to below 6.0 volts to insure the module doesn't fail. I would like to get that voltage to anywhere between 4.8 to 5.5 volts.

After a lot of reading here and elsewhere I thought I'd try my hand at making a voltage reducer lead using two 1N4007 diodes in series, spliced into the red wire on a 6 inch servo extension lead. From what others have said I understood each diode should cause a .7 volt drop in voltage. Therefore with two of them in series I should get about a 1.4 voltage drop from the nominal 6.6 volts resulting in about 5.2 volts, right?

Well, I soldered the diodes in series and then spliced them into the red wire making sure the stripe on each diode was facing the ignition module (away from the battery side). I checked the voltage of my battery pack and read 6.5 volts. I then connected the battery pack to the extension and read the voltage at the other end and it read 6.1 volts. All I got was a .4 volt drop. I was expecting about a 1.4 volt drop for a reading of about 5.1 volts.

Did I do something wrong? Does there need to be a load placed on the battery in order to see the 1.4 drop or have I soldered it wrong. I bought the two 1N4007 diodes from Radio Shack. I believe I have adequate soldering skills. I just didn't get the results I expected.

Thanks for your help.

Mike

helodrvr

My Feedback: (88)

boostoman,

look at post #5 in this thread. It has very good tuning instructions from Jody at VVRC.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10254571

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

If you got one of the diodes to hot when soldering it it may have shorted out internally causing it to act just like a piece of solid wire.You cancheck them individually with an ohm meter, you should have continuity in one direction only, if there is continuity in both directions it's shorted.