DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Thanks Microdon2, I am sure you are right. The Platt is built with beam mounts and the DEL20 would just tuck in there soso nice, but can't risk underpowered. So will check out the DLE 30 fit, also the 30 cc made in USA at Syssaaircraft.net looks like a winner too.
Tom
Tom
#3777
RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Me410, I have a converted McCouglah 25cc engine in a 16 lb 72" wingspan CMP Zero which flys it in a scale manner. It turns a Master Airscrew 16-8 three blade prop 7,900 rpm. I have a DLE 20 in a Hanger 9 Hellcat at 11.5 lbs. Turns the same prop 8,350 rpm. Way more power than the Hellcat needs. I'm sure the DLE would fly the ESM/KMP 72" wingspan 13-15 lbs warbirds just fine but I think the 17-18 lbs 77" wingspan Me 109 would need just a little more, just to be sure you have the power you want. For your information the RCGF side carb 20cc engine turns the same prop 7,800 rpm. No question the DLE is a powerful little engine.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Do you have an air exit hole at the back of the cowl. If not you probably need to add that as the air needs to flow past the head and exit out the back of the cowl. A 2 to 1 inlet to outlet is pretty much the norm for good cooling.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Yes, it has an exit that was designed into the plane. Yes, rounding those corners is a good idea, didn't think about it... Newbie First cowl cut.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
ive been reading the thread and seeing some saying its ok to runLIFE batteriesdirect to the ignition? is that ok or will the voltage be to high?
new to gasser motors
thanks for the info.
new to gasser motors
thanks for the info.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
elies12
From what I have read on the "New DLE 20cc gasser!" thread, most of the pilots say use a Syssa Ultra IBE, (ignition battery eliminator), with your LIFE battery. You can use just one battery this way and also reduce the voltage. You can purchase one at Valley View RC. Talk to jedijody on the DLE 20cc gasser thread. He's with Valley View RC.
From what I have read on the "New DLE 20cc gasser!" thread, most of the pilots say use a Syssa Ultra IBE, (ignition battery eliminator), with your LIFE battery. You can use just one battery this way and also reduce the voltage. You can purchase one at Valley View RC. Talk to jedijody on the DLE 20cc gasser thread. He's with Valley View RC.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
+1
LiFe batteries will over voltage the ignition, but the Syssa IBEC will regulate it to 5.8V. I am using 5 of them, no issues even with Lipo's.
LiFe batteries will over voltage the ignition, but the Syssa IBEC will regulate it to 5.8V. I am using 5 of them, no issues even with Lipo's.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
I'm buying the DL20 and have a few questions:
Is 3/32 Tygon sufficient? I would think this engine sips gas.
Is a 4.8V NIMH 750 MAH sufficient for Ignition?
Thanks
Chris
Is 3/32 Tygon sufficient? I would think this engine sips gas.
Is a 4.8V NIMH 750 MAH sufficient for Ignition?
Thanks
Chris
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
ORIGINAL: elies12
ive been reading the thread and seeing some saying its ok to runLIFE batteriesdirect to the ignition? is that ok or will the voltage be to high?
new to gasser motors
thanks for the info.
ive been reading the thread and seeing some saying its ok to runLIFE batteriesdirect to the ignition? is that ok or will the voltage be to high?
new to gasser motors
thanks for the info.
-Mike
#3791
RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Tried an APC 15x11 on my P-51 today. 8350 in the Texas heat. I think this is going to be the perfect speed prop for this thing. I didn't get to fly it today though. As I was taxiing out, the left landing gear collapsed. My retract servo took a dump. Try it next week but I think we have a winner in the 15x11.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
I am happy with the 15x11 apc, best one I have used so far. The 16x10 was lugging on uplines a tad, and was slower I thought.
The 15x11 is a good straffing prop, , I have about 10 tanks on it and don't plan on changing it!
Mikeeee
The 15x11 is a good straffing prop, , I have about 10 tanks on it and don't plan on changing it!
Mikeeee
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
ORIGINAL: Johnny_Zero
Was looking good...just wanted to be sure that you knew about the exit for hot air. Send more photos.
Was looking good...just wanted to be sure that you knew about the exit for hot air. Send more photos.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
ORIGINAL: DwightMann
Windgap, what does your 260 weigh?
Windgap, what does your 260 weigh?
However, gotta work programming a throttle curve for the dle 20. It seems to come on full power at 1/2 throttle. So, it feels touchy, not linear at all. I've heard a few fellows here mention about programming a throttle curve. However, I have the dx6i and would have to utilize the heli mode. Any suggestions?
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Am I doing something wrong are do I possibly have a bad ignition module. Here is the story.
DLE20 start up after engine has been sitting for a couple of days. Choke goes on, throttle at full open. It takes about 15 hand flips before the engine fires briefly. Choke goes off, throttle set to just above idle. A couple of flips and it coughs. A couple more and the engine is running. Seems okay at this point. The prop is a Vess 17X6. At full throttle I get 8400 rpm sometimes flickers from 8300 to 8500 but 8400 seems to be the most consistent rpm. Throttle goes to idle, engine rpm drops to about 3000 and stays there for maybe about 10 seconds and then drops to about 1700 to 1800 rpm. Engine will transition from idle to full rpm with no hesitation. Leaning the high end any further does not give any additional rpm so I think it is as lean as it should be. Leaning the low end any further causes the engine to quit. So I have backed the low end off by about the width of a screw driver blade from being too lean.
Now here is what doesn't seem right. If the engine is left at idle (1700/1800 rpm) it will run for about a minute and will then stop abruptly without any indication of struggling to stay on. It just simply quits. Now it doesn't want to restart by hand flips or by using an electric starter on it. I've tried both restarting using the choke and not using the choke. Neither way works. I take the plug out of the engine. It looks damp but not soaking wet. If I turn the engine so the plug hole is facing down, a drop or two of fuel may come out, sometimes none at all. Now after doing this I can reinsert the plug, a NGK CM6, and the engine will fire right back up. I have changed to a fresh CM6 but the same results occur so I don't think it is a bad plug. Because the plug appears damp when removed I would suspect it has become too wet to fire. However, there is hardly any fuel that will pour out from the plug hole. But merely taking the plug out and then replacing it seems to be the magic solution to get the engine to start again.
So, is it possible that the ignition module is not providing a strong enough spark to overcome a damp plug. I'm using a 4.8 volt Nicad for power to the module. Fuel is regular unleaded with 32 to 1 Pennzoil air cooled mixture.
Thanks
Mike
DLE20 start up after engine has been sitting for a couple of days. Choke goes on, throttle at full open. It takes about 15 hand flips before the engine fires briefly. Choke goes off, throttle set to just above idle. A couple of flips and it coughs. A couple more and the engine is running. Seems okay at this point. The prop is a Vess 17X6. At full throttle I get 8400 rpm sometimes flickers from 8300 to 8500 but 8400 seems to be the most consistent rpm. Throttle goes to idle, engine rpm drops to about 3000 and stays there for maybe about 10 seconds and then drops to about 1700 to 1800 rpm. Engine will transition from idle to full rpm with no hesitation. Leaning the high end any further does not give any additional rpm so I think it is as lean as it should be. Leaning the low end any further causes the engine to quit. So I have backed the low end off by about the width of a screw driver blade from being too lean.
Now here is what doesn't seem right. If the engine is left at idle (1700/1800 rpm) it will run for about a minute and will then stop abruptly without any indication of struggling to stay on. It just simply quits. Now it doesn't want to restart by hand flips or by using an electric starter on it. I've tried both restarting using the choke and not using the choke. Neither way works. I take the plug out of the engine. It looks damp but not soaking wet. If I turn the engine so the plug hole is facing down, a drop or two of fuel may come out, sometimes none at all. Now after doing this I can reinsert the plug, a NGK CM6, and the engine will fire right back up. I have changed to a fresh CM6 but the same results occur so I don't think it is a bad plug. Because the plug appears damp when removed I would suspect it has become too wet to fire. However, there is hardly any fuel that will pour out from the plug hole. But merely taking the plug out and then replacing it seems to be the magic solution to get the engine to start again.
So, is it possible that the ignition module is not providing a strong enough spark to overcome a damp plug. I'm using a 4.8 volt Nicad for power to the module. Fuel is regular unleaded with 32 to 1 Pennzoil air cooled mixture.
Thanks
Mike
#3798
RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Based my limited experience gained from reading this thread and others, it sounds to me like your low end needle needs to be back out just a bit more. Try backing it out a half turn and see how you get on from there. You will most likely need to retune the engine.
#3799
RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
I would not even open it more than an 1/8 turn, go to the gas engine for newbie thread and see Jody's instructions for setup. My Dle is so sensitive that barely a 1/16 of a turn changes things dramaticlly. Do you have gas coming out the carb? I had to open up my carb after the first couple of tanks because there was a small piece of metal in the needle seat that caused the engine to flood. Others have reported this issue in here. Some times it's best to go back to the factory settings and start over.
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
If you get gas coming out of the carb due to debris in the regulator valve / seat then taking off the spark plug will do nothing. You need to take apart the carb and clean the valve.
Sounds like a different problem here. Mike, is this behavior consistent or happens once in a while? Have you ruled out air leaks in the fuel system?
If you get 3000 idle then dropping to 1700 then the low needle needs richening by 1/16 - 1/8 turn
Sounds like a different problem here. Mike, is this behavior consistent or happens once in a while? Have you ruled out air leaks in the fuel system?
If you get 3000 idle then dropping to 1700 then the low needle needs richening by 1/16 - 1/8 turn