Ernie Misner

You are welcome. Be sure and check out the Tygothane Poly.. tubing as well as the Viton. The Tygothane one is very reasonable and I think is flexible for clunk lines. I have an order coming. They also have high temp silicone tubing for couplings in tuned pipes or mousse can setups. Much cheaper than Macs's Products. They have aluminum tubeing, same size as Mac's headers as well, up to 3/4" anyway.

armody

My Feedback: (10)

Guys,

Since Du-Bro's products are reliable and trusted. I'm gonna go ahead and use Tygon and these are the items I'm gonna use.

Thanks

Mody

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I've ONLY used Du-Bro Tygon and never had any problems.....good choice IMHO.

armody

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks tailskid,

I've been using Du-Bro's product, and they are pretty reliable. When I first went to my hobby shop in order to get a Du-Bro's fuel tank, they didn't have gas stopper. I was told that for the inside of tank, I should be using black neoprene not tygon as it may get brittle, but a lot of people advised me here to use Tygon so I'm gonna go for the Tygon, and Dubro's product are pretty cheap to be used.

Mody

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

DuBro is still among the best for bang-for-the-buck. You'll be just fine, Armody.

armody

My Feedback: (10)

It sure is a bang for the buck Since the day of Christmas we had wind gusts like 40Mph now it's been mellowed down. Temp is lower 30's here at night. In the day it's higher 40's which is pretty good and cold for here where I live.

Next week hopefully I'd try to have my maiden, if weather allows it especially wind[:@]


Mody

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I've used Tygon and had no failures. The tubing eventually hardens and needs replaced. Make sure your tank is easy to remove and leave enough tubing attached so that you can pull the tank out enough to get to the stopper screw.

I'm trying Viton this upcoming season and perhaps I won't have to change the fuel pickup line quite so often/ever.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

If you leave some fuel in your tank, your tygon will remain pliable.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

My Tygon tubing finally harden up after 3-4 years - in my Fuel Can!

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Well never mind then. I am just making it up to mislead my fellow modelers.

Ernie Misner

So you're going with a Dubro tank too, right? One clunk or two? What about filtration?

My 20cc profile ProX260 is going to have a Hayes 8oz. tank with Viton or Tygothane Polyurethane for the clunk line since I have some coming from McMaster Carr anyway, single clunk with a T for filling and a filter before the carb.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Quick question about engine timing: What is the net result if you set up the engine with LESS advance than the 28-32 degreees called for? Would it necessarily harm the engine? A little less performance but cooler running or easier starting qualities? Thanks in advance for any knowledgable responses!

armody

My Feedback: (10)

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me the tank setup? Two outlets coming out of tank one is for vent and other goes to the carb. The one for vent is bent upwards and I'm going to use it for fueling the tank as well, once tank is full, I'd insert a fuel stopper to it. Is this setup OK?

Thanks

Mody

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Armody-

Don't think that will work as tank will need a vent since fuel is pumped and you will end up creating a vacuum. Suggest a "T" in the line to the carb with one leg of the "T" being your fill line. Some people put a loop in the vent line to avoid any issues and then let it hang out the bottom of the plane. Others just let the vent line hang out of the bottom of the plane.

Fill tank until gas comes out of the open vent line then plug the fill line. That leaves the vent line always open.

Larry

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

+1... Phakur is right... you're gas tank should have three ports (1 to carb, 1 to fill, and one to vent the tank). If you only have two connectors on your tank then you'll have to fill through the carb line with a t-connector or a fuel filler do-hickey like the one from Dubro (it actually closes the lead to the carb during refueling) and the vent line (is it clear that the vent line is important? lol)

anyway... it's a great motor... runs like a champ, easy to maintain, and pretty resilient...

armody

My Feedback: (10)

phakur thanks,

sparky, I do have T-connector, so that has to be connected to the line which goes to the carb and once the tank is filled up, I can plug the stopper to that line which goes to the carb and connected with T-connector. 2nd line which is for vent, I would take it curl it around on the top of the tank and let it hang downwards, open right? Which would push out the gas once it's full?

Have I understood it correctly?

Mody

Ernie Misner

If you use the T setup you might want to run a filter right before the carb. The T fueling method renders a clunk filter useless but that's okay with the carb filter. Another great option is to run 2 clunks in the tank. One is just for fueling / unfueling.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Ernie - I think I just realized why you're saying that the T-method renders the clunk filter useless - because any particles in the fuel will get trapped on the carb-side of the clunk while filling the tank, and so will get pulled back up to the carb when fuel direction reverses, during normal engine running. Is that right? I had not thought of that before. So it seems I need to install some in-line filters on my planes, between the T and the carb.

Mike

Ernie Misner

That's it microdon2, you got it. Yes, with that T setup it's way more important to have a filter before the carb. That's one advantage of a two clunk setup which is very popular. No, the two clunk lines don't get tangled or twisted.

Often you'll see guys fueling glow planes or whatever at the field and sometimes they'll have an in lilne filter but then fill the tank from the wrong side of that filter too.

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

That's why the hand-crank pump on my Jersey Fueler pumps the fuel through a filter on it's way TO the fill-line in the airplane. A CrapTrap right before the carb seals the deal.

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

I have a ceramic flilter clunk ($4) in my fuel tanks and in my fuel fillers... Never got crap from a t setup from 20cc to 150cc. Forgot to say never...

acdii

I prefer the 3 line setup since it eliminates the possibility of getting an air leak between the tank and carb, also eliminates the need for extra filters.  Did that to all my planes, glow and gas.  Since I use one of those metal fuel plugs, it also adds a touch of scale to my warbird.

raptureboy

Never say neverI also use a 3 line tank for the same reasons mentioned here, neither right or wrong just the way I like to do it. But the vent MUST remain open or your tank will collapse and your engine will quit at the most inopportune moment.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I filter my fuel as it exits the hand pump. After that I trust the crap trap built into the carb? This in an attemp to minimize trouble/leaks on board.... and the carb's crap trap not that hard to inspect/service on occasion!

Mody, you're understanding correctly!

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Totally personal preference... In previous posts the feel was that 3 line was the only way..Let my post reflect that.

Not true..

If you like 3 line, go for it.

If you like two line, go for it.

Both work fine and I mentioned that I use two line on my gassers with great record as an example that that a 3 line is not a must...


Ernie, here is one for ya. I had dirt work its way back from the vent line on my 20cc profile because it was mounted under the wing and the prop blast allowed it to breath in dust that worked its way back to the fuel tank... Deadsticks later I cleaned the screen in the carb and then it happened again.. on the third time I put a filter on the end of the vent line and it stopped. (each time dismantling and cleaning the Hayes fuel tank). But an inline filter or filter clunk from the fuel pick up to the carb would have never allowed it.

Depending on the brand an inline filter may have a gasket that can leak... A ceramic clunk or walbro filtered clunk cannot leak...

The ceramic clunk that I use sucks every last drop from the tank.. It is also heaver than a regular clunk so if you are worried about lines that are stiff.. it will do the job longer... I lost track on my flight time once on my 50cc plane and when I had landed the plane and it had sucked the tank dry and the fuel line showed the fuel bubble half way up to the carb...

Gonna try a 17x7 on my DLE 20 this weekend.. Getting 8810 on the 17x6...anyone interested in results I will report back..