Gutaaaooo

My dle20 is still in the mail, so I can't coment on it. I have two Balsa USAs pipers 1/4. One is around 15 year old, and has a YS 120 on it, with that engine, I fly 1/3-1/2 trotle with no problem, fulltrotle takeoff is more like a launch, jumps of the grass runway in 3 feet flat. To takeoff in more a scale like maner I have to be carefull not to go over 2/5 stick, or it dosen't want to stay in the ground. I would never do it, but I do think it would be handlauchable even with the more then 3 meters wingspan. It's a very lightplane.
The other piper is ready, I just have to get around to find an engine for it. The DLE20 I have coming will start it's life in a ultra stick, and will probably be going to the piper later on. The stick is my last atempt at some sort of funfly/3d plane. I don't really like that kind of flying.... Prefer sport/f3a style.

I do have a H9 cessana 182 with a dle 30, and it's not the least underpowered, but it's not overpowered eather. I's turning a biela (wide) 17x10-3blade, so I could have a beter performance with a 16x10-3blade, but it just looks beater with the biger prop. Since I still had to put around 4oz of lead upfront, The dle30 is perfect, I don't think that with the 20 I would be as happy.

dutchy50

Glad I could help!!!!!
I`m hoping there is enough ventilation in the setup I have?

Johnny_Zero

My Feedback: (44)

I think that you will have heat issues. The intake looks ok but you need to get the hot air out the back of the chin cowl. Cut an air exit behind your plug wire hole and the fire wall. You usally need 2 to 3 to 1 exit area to intake area. I do like your install. Can't wait to hear how the DLE 20 performs in that TF P-51.

joefly9

My Feedback: (5)

I have a Dave Patrick Ultimate Biplane that has never flown. I originally planned to use a Saito 150 in it but decided to convert to Gas. Would the DLE-20 be enough for this plane? I do have a DLE-30 that I was planning to install on another plane and was considering using it on the Bipe.

captinjohn

No the engine will not work in that bipe...so sell the thing to me.....Please!

raubold

My Feedback: (156)

Benchracing is cool, dyno is better, results wysiwyg is the best, get it try it tune it fly it. ripped the profile pretty good to me. I may plug one in one of my Goldberg Ultimates and give it a shot

raubold

My Feedback: (156)

S O B, that little puppy has some decent gas exchane ports there, small counterweight, no wonder that thing spools up like it does. The lower rod bearing could harbor more needles, but with that oil mix it will be fine. Clean looking workmanship to me, like it
i keep watching here, want something for my Goldgerg Ultimate

Johnny_Zero

My Feedback: (44)

The YS 140 was a great combo for the Dave Patrick Ultimate. At 5500 ft alt it was a bit under powered. I had one (12 LBS) and flew a few others with this combo. The DLE 20 would for sure fly it, but it might not have the performance you are looking for. Personally I am putting the DLE 20 in a Goldberg Ultimate 120 ARF. This combo still might not be enough for 3D. It depends on your style of flying and what you expect of an airframe/engine combo. From what others are getting out of the DLE engine, I think that the Goldberg will rock with this engine. If you fly at a much lower altitude you might have a great combo also.

dutchy50

Thanks for that input, I will take your advise!!!
dutchy50

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Put the DLE30cc in that DP Ultimate 1.20, if you want great performance & some 3D abilities.
Use the DLE20cc if you just want easy going general flying, no extra power.

I had the same plane years back, and mine had a Saito 1.50. Spirited performance, but would fall off in attempts to hover.
Could go through almost a gallon of 20% nitro in one day!!!!

The DLE30 would be a great match, the DLE20 would just be adequete.
Do reinforce the firewall!

joefly9

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the advice on the DP Ultimate. I'll put the DLE-30 in it and beef up the firewall.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I have owned a few G26 engines and they have all been excellent performers. I'm down to my last one these days. It is the light version that was offered by Ralph Cunningham of R/C Ignitions. It is a beautiful engine.

However, were I in the market today for an engine in this displacement class, I would have a very difficult time buying anything other than the DLE 30. It's lighter, more powerful and cheaper than the Zenoah G26. Granted, the DLE (any size) does not have the remarkable history of reliability of the G26. Very few engines of any brand in this displacement class are as well vetted as the G26 Zenoah.


Ed Cregger

Cub Flyer Fresno

This is an excellent source of info, but DANG, it makes decisions harder. Everyone has their opinions.

So now it's back to the DLE-30! Thanks Ed.

summerwind

David,

why not just ask John D?
or John Lockwood may have the answer you are looking for.
do you already have the Sig kit?
i just got the DLE 30 last night, i can bring it out for you to take a look at this weekend.
then you can also set it up to the plans to see how it will fit.
personally i would go with the 30.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Yes, I've inquired with both of them. John L. is pretty flexible and I work with John D so I can talk to him all day long. I'm just trying to glean the nuggets.

Yes, I'm leaning heavily towards the DLE-30 now, but I've got time.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I called the hobby shop and talked to the owner, Mark. This EPA law has been in effect at least since 2003. There's a lot leading up to this story. Due to gas and electric power, the hobby shop can no longer justify buying a skid (16 cases) of fuel sent motor freight where the $20 Hazmat fee is just put on the whole skid. He now has to buy fuel by the case and UPS puts the $20 hazmat fee on each box. So that ads $5/gal on the price of fuel.

This is no different than what eriegc said. I was just trying to explain how it works.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

OK, but overall it's old news. I thought he was posting about something new regarding glow fuel prices.

Out of 19 RC models I have, 60% are EP, 30% are gas, and 10% are glow. The glow fuel I have will last me several years.
If I ever need some, I just have the wife pick me up some 20/20 Powermaster from King Hobbies in N.C.

dutchy50

Hello
Can someone please advise me on a Gas Kill Switch?

RCEXL Opto Gas Kill Switch, are they any good? From Hong Kong!

Does this unit have DSP Noise/Loss of signal filtering?

Is there a difference between Version 1.1 and Version 1.2?

Are they 2.4Ghz support?

Which is better, the unit that has up to 20 volt 16amp MOS-FET(IRF7456) output or 10 volt 15amp MOS-FET output? What does all this mean?

Thank you
dutchy50

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

There's a wide variety of such units on the market to choose from. Someone else was asking about the same unit you are.....
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9644899]RCEXL Ign Kill.....[/link]
[Note; 90 day DOA warranty]

Other units to consider are......
[link=http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Ignition/ignition.htm]PowerSystem Sport Plus.....[/link]
*complete power expander, regulator, and ign kill all in one unit*
On my larger gassers, this combo unit is what I prefer and use.

[link=http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Ignition/ignition.htm]Opt Ign Kill unit.....[/link]

[link=http://www.valleyviewrc.com/42-Percent%20Products%20Opto%20Gas%20Kill%20Switch.ht m]Remote Electronic Ignition kill switch.....[/link]
This one I just started using and it too is a good unit.
[Note; lifetime warranty]

None of them know nor care if they're connected to 27mHz, 75 mHz, 72 mHz, or 2.4 gHz, doesn't matter to these units, they'll work the same on each.
You will need a spare un-used channel on your reciever to be able to switch the unit On/Off.

If you're using 2.4 gHz, then noise filtering isn't needed.

What will you be using for batteries, to power your ignition and reciever (seperately)?
Li-Ion, LiPo, NiMh, A123???

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I use the kill switch from Bad Brad Graphics on a crrc 40cc, $20. Works like a champ. No problems so far.
http://www.badbradgraphics.com/

Edwin

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Regarding opti-kill, I just went with a setup that uses 2 batteries supplying power to 2 switches, both powering the receiver - for all kinds of redundancy and extra amperage available to the servos (and should virtually eliminate the potential for receiver power brown out). Then, rather than use an opti-kill, I spent the money I would have spent on one of those to help pay for an ignition battery eliminator (IBEC) - which not only gives the ability to control power going to the ignition, it also supplies the power to the ignition. Pretty clean setup with very little in the way of a downside that I can see. FWIW

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

So whose remote controlled IBEC did you use?
John

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I'm sure there are others out there, but this is the one I went with:

http://www.syssaaircraft.com/cart/pc...&idcategory=11

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks - If I may ask another question - what voltage does it regulate the ignition to?
John

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Dutchy50,

Some things for you to consider when choosing an Ign Kill sytem;

1) You want it to isolate potential ignition EMI and RFI interference from your reciever.
NO DIRECT CONNECTIONS from ignition -to- receiver.

2) Some means of visually indicating the ign kill is armed & active.

Most true ign kill systems' only link to the reciever is for the On/Off function.
They are optically isolated from any direct connection to the receiver.

Although some will indicate IBEC units work fine, I'll never trust such.
Myself, those around me, and our models are just too important to cut corners on ign kill systems.

IBEC units plug directly into the receiver both for power to the ign and to switch the ign On/Off.
Now IF you trust their aledged/claimed abilities to filter out potential EMI and RFI interference
......give one a try.

IBEC also add more load directly to your receiver from the ign.....[most ignitions use 0.8amps at
idle and 1.1amps at full throttle. Some Zenoah ignitions use up to 2.5 amp]

With the various true ign kill systems listed so far, ranging from $20-59.00, there's very little
to gain with an IBEC, and the potential to lose much.

Another plus for most ign kill systems is many include a small light to indicate when your system
is armed/active. That alone may save a few fingers!

Some means of remotely killing your gas engine is very desirable. Be it an ign kill system, or even
an IBEC (last choice).

Relying on the throttle servo, &/or choke servo, to choke & kill a gas engine, just aren't good enough.
Servos fail, and linkages break or fall off.

Some use nothing but the On/Off switch on the model [steer clear of those flyers....waaay clear!]

What you see as most important to you, and then what you can afford, will drive your ultimate decision of which way to proceed.