|
If you just send us the ignition unit we can replace the plug cap for you. Use the repair form found on our website under support.
Pete |
If you can't get one from Horizon you should be able to use the one from Rcexl. The only question might be the resistor value.
http://www.rcexl.com/news/Accessories/6.html |
Do you think these engines have enough umph to fly a H9 fokker DVII ?
They say the evo .60 is a perfect match for it. |
The muffler is horrible. Compare it to an os muffler. Half as thick and the centerbolt is only 2/3 the diamater or less. I swapped out the muffler from an os. No problems since with no modifications. I tried all of the recommended fixes. None would hold more than three to four flights before it was loose again.
|
My experience with my 10 CC has been mixed. When running properly, it peforms pretty well with power about the same as an OS 46 AX nitro engine. But, reliability has been inconsistant. The engine seems to quit suddenly with no apparent reason. It has done that off and on since new. The spark plug wire cap would not lock on to the plug from the start and had to be wired on to make it stay. The quiting thing has become worse over time and I can not get the engine to run at all not, just short spurts and pops. Yes, I have checked and cleaned the spark plug which did not help. I strongly suspect that the ignition has been a problem from the start. I have about 12 to 15 flights on the engine now since performing the recommended break-in. I also have a 20 CC engine but have had a much better experience with that engine.
Best wishes and good safe flying. Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit) |
Originally Posted by NoFlaps
(Post 11796472)
Do you think these engines have enough umph to fly a H9 fokker DVII ?
They say the evo .60 is a perfect match for it. |
2 questions
1. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 10GX 2. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 15GX I need to take a carb apart to clean dirt out of it, however I've looked through both my manuals and several places I've read "if you have set the initial low speed needle valve correctly you will be within 1/16" of the correct setting... great.. but nowhere do I see how to initially set it correctly... I've read through both books 2-3 times now...I'm either missing it or its not there. help? |
Originally Posted by mattnew
(Post 11797740)
2 questions
1. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 10GX 2. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 15GX I need to take a carb apart to clean dirt out of it, however I've looked through both my manuals and several places I've read "if you have set the initial low speed needle valve correctly you will be within 1/16" of the correct setting... great.. but nowhere do I see how to initially set it correctly... I've read through both books 2-3 times now...I'm either missing it or its not there. help? Baseline Needle Valve Settings Your engine comes from the factory with the needles set at the first run baseline settings (High-Speed: 2 1/4 turns out, Low-Speed: 5 3/8 turns out). No adjustment is necessary. If you find you need to move the carburetor back to the baseline settings follow the procedure below Edit: I don't see that section in the 15Gx manual. I have the 15GX too but I don't remember what the turns were when I set it up. That would be something for Pete/Horizon or someone with a new 15GX who could count the turns on both needles. I would say they are going to be close to the 10GX but that is just a guess. |
The base setting for the low speed assumes a 1.5 mm throttle opening. The engine comes with a special metal insert for making sure you have the proper throttle opening. I have somehow misplaced mine.
|
Thanks Brian,
so thats the 10GX, Does the 15 use the same settings? I had only skimmed the 10GX manual as its the 15 that needs the cleaning, page 8 of the 15GX manual talks about telemetry then goes straight into startup procedure... Telemetry is a huge asset to help you tune your engine. The ignition module is even capable of communicating with Spektrum telemetry systems directly so you won’t have to add an additional RPM sensor. You will need to connect the Evolution Ignition Telemetry Adapter (EVOA107) between the RPM port on the ignition unit and the RPM port on your Spektrum telemetry module in order to utilize this feature. Telemetry systems other than Spektrum may require a dedicated RPM sensor. We recommend using the Spektrum DSMX Full Range Aircraft Telemetry Module (SPM9548) in conjunction with the included adapter. This system allows you to see real-time RPM and temperature readings from the engine. The temperature sensor should be wrapped around the base of the spark plug on the cylinder head. Using telemetry gives you an accurate representation of actual temperature and rpm figures during use, and warnings can be set to go off if your engine is getting too hot. The temperature range can be 275–300ºF on average. Set your maximum temperature warning to go off if the engine exceeds 350ºF. If your engine is continually near this peak temperature or higher, immediately decrease throttle to bring the temperature down. If this continues to occur, land the airplane and add additional baffling to your cowl. It is not good for the engine to run at temperatures this high and could cause damage if not attended to. 11 Now that you have the baseline needle valve settings, you are ready to start your engine for the first time. With the 15GX it is very important to allow the temperature to stabilize above 170°F (75°C) before making any adjustments; adjusting prior to the engine warming up will lead you to inaccurate settings. As the engine warms up you will notice the rpms naturally rising. If you do not have a temp gun or have sensors installed on your engine, allow the engine to run at half throttle for at least 45 seconds before attempting to set the high-speed needle. If you have accurately set the low-speed needle as described you should not need to adjust it. Priming 1. Make sure your ignition is off. 2. Open the throttle fully and, either by holding a finger over the carburetor intake or the muffler exhaust, flip the propeller 6 times. 3. Remove your finger from either the carburetor or muffler exhaust and flip the engine another 6 times. 4. Close the carburetor completely with your throttle stick and then open it two detents from closed. This will allow the engine to start at a high throttle setting. Because each fuel system and installation is slightly different, you may find the need to modify the above procedure for your individual setup. The above procedure should work for most installations.
Originally Posted by flyinwalenda
(Post 11797755)
Check out page #11 of the 10GX manual:
Baseline Needle Valve Settings Your engine comes from the factory with the needles set at the first run baseline settings (High-Speed: 2 1/4 turns out, Low-Speed: 5 3/8 turns out). No adjustment is necessary. If you find you need to move the carburetor back to the baseline settings follow the procedure below |
Matt
the baseline for the 15gX is 4-7/8 for the low and 1-1/2 for the high. Pete ps. We will get an update in the manual. |
Thank you peter!
|
Like I said, I think they omitted that part in the 15GX manual. To be sure you would have to find a NIB engine or someone with one and count the turns.
|
to be sure I'll count the turns on mine prior to taking it apart. The tweaks I've done to it have only been minor.. thanks to all for your help.
|
LOL.........so I have a little under 1/2 gallon thru my engine; using a 10X6 APC Sport prop. The engine is running pretty good right now but will sometimes die on me when I throttle back after a full throttle climb.......like when doing a stall turn and I've started my vertical downline. I put an "idle up" on a switch and that has helped.
I changed the prop to a 11X7 today but before I did I put a tach on the 10X6......15,400 rpms at full throttle; the 11X7 is spinning at 11,400. The engine has a nice idle around 2400 rpms (no forward roll on pavement) and the idle up is approx 3400 rpms. Probably won't even try a 12X6 at this time; the 11X7 seems to pull the plane around pretty good for SPA Novice class. |
Falcon,
I have a NIB Tower Kaos 40 ARF that I was going to fly with an OS56 fourstroke, but I recently acquired an Evo 10cc gas engine. The mounting dimensions are the same as a 46 or 55. What do you think? We had met a few years ago at an SPA contest in Paulding County. Hope to fly some SPA soon! Thanks, Cesar |
My 10cc is giving me fits......I can get it to run great wide open, and idle. I'll be taxing around the yard great. It will idle a full tank out no problem. It doesn't go lean when held vertical at idle or wide open. Now, for the problem.....If I go from idle to wide open fast it will 85-90% of the time perfectly, jumps wide open. 10-15% of the time it will sputter and quit. Like, if you are going around and open it up, it will die......I have it on a new plane, and I'm about ready to pull it off and sell it. I don't want to trash this plane!
Any ideas?? I have re-plumbed the entire tank today, checked the clunk, reset the needle valves.....I'm running a APC 12x6 prop, 91oct fuel with Husqvarna oil, all mixed fresh today also, poured the other tank into the mower to see if that changed anything, nope.....Still runs the same. IDEAS??? Thanks, Chris |
Also, tachs at 10,800rpm max.....Idles around 2,700rpm.
|
Originally Posted by w0ace
(Post 11811127)
My 10cc is giving me fits......I can get it to run great wide open, and idle. I'll be taxing around the yard great. It will idle a full tank out no problem. It doesn't go lean when held vertical at idle or wide open. Now, for the problem.....If I go from idle to wide open fast it will 85-90% of the time perfectly, jumps wide open. 10-15% of the time it will sputter and quit. Like, if you are going around and open it up, it will die......I have it on a new plane, and I'm about ready to pull it off and sell it. I don't want to trash this plane! Any ideas?? I have re-plumbed the entire tank today, checked the clunk, reset the needle valves.....I'm running a APC 12x6 prop, 91oct fuel with Husqvarna oil, all mixed fresh today also, poured the other tank into the mower to see if that changed anything, nope.....Still runs the same. IDEAS??? Thanks,Chris
|
Ernie is right..i had to open my low end around 1/4 to 1/2 round more on low end..Have to be patient with this engine..May want to use the smaller prop like the book says on first couple of flights..i would keep the load off the engine with larger props until you have run several tanks in the air..the abc cylinder set up on gas makes it little tempermental until its broken in..then its same every flight..Just don't let it idle too low while breaking in..Keep some throttle too engine while flying..Its a different engine from what you are used too with glow.You can start leaning the low side back down once its broken in some..
|
You don't say how many gallons of fuel are through it . It takes a long time to fully break-in and along the way the low&high needles need to be tweaked . As others have stated , the low end needs some adjusting. This has to be done using very small turns then adjust the high end and fly it ....lather, rinse, repeat . It's much easier to tune once several gallons have gone through it. Had mine out for the first time this year and had to make a tiny adjustment to the low end and that was it.
Perhaps start over and reset the barrel adjustment and then the needles . |
Originally Posted by josephcraig
(Post 11811255)
Ernie is right..i had to open my low end around 1/4 to 1/2 round more on low end..Have to be patient with this engine..May want to use the smaller prop like the book says on first couple of flights..i would keep the load off the engine with larger props until you have run several tanks in the air..the abc cylinder set up on gas makes it little tempermental until its broken in..then its same every flight..Just don't let it idle too low while breaking in..Keep some throttle too engine while flying..Its a different engine from what you are used too with glow.You can start leaning the low side back down once its broken in some..
|
2 Attachment(s)
I have about a gallon thru it. It ran ok all weekend, but I was afraid to ever slam it wide open in fear of it quitting. I thought that would be a sign of it running to lean on the low end, die when accelerating. I do the fuel line test, (pull it off while running) and it just keeps running till it quits, like it's the perfect needle setting, not speeding up or slowing down. I'm going to break my other one in on the test stand and let it run all weekend long to hopefully solve this problem!
I got my muffler to stay on with lock tite, but it's still making Black goo from the joint in it. The exhaust is still pretty bad, but better than it was at first. I went with gas thinking it would be cleaner.... I did the break-in per the book, 10x6, 11x6, and now a 12x6 prop. Planning on going to a 13x4 or 5 soon for some more thrust.....Flying on a high wing Hobbistar .60 I made like a bush plane, so I want thrust not speed..... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1999438http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1999439 |
This is an ABC engine so it takes a long time to fully break-in. After 2-3 gallons the deposits get less but it will never be as clean as a ringed engine on a lighter mix. After 3 gallons I get some slop on first starts(probably too much prime) but the running deposits are lighter than a typical glow engine.
Get that muffler tight. Take it apart and re-do it. That small leak will create running issues. |
Originally Posted by w0ace
(Post 11813068)
I have about a gallon thru it. It ran ok all weekend, but I was afraid to ever slam it wide open in fear of it quitting. I thought that would be a sign of it running to lean on the low end, die when accelerating. I do the fuel line test, (pull it off while running) and it just keeps running till it quits, like it's the perfect needle setting, not speeding up or slowing down. I'm going to break my other one in on the test stand and let it run all weekend long to hopefully solve this problem!
I got my muffler to stay on with lock tite, but it's still making Black goo from the joint in it. The exhaust is still pretty bad, but better than it was at first. I went with gas thinking it would be cleaner.... I did the break-in per the book, 10x6, 11x6, and now a 12x6 prop. Planning on going to a 13x4 or 5 soon for some more thrust.....Flying on a high wing Hobbistar .60 I made like a bush plane, so I want thrust not speed..... Nice STOL job on the bush plane!!! http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1999438http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1999439 |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:11 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.