Al, sure hope that an air leak, at the carb nipple, or elsewhere, is the solution to the problem a lot of people are having with the engine dying on the down line. I'm not sure why that doesn't show up in other flying attitudes.

Joey, our weather here is frustrating this year for sure. The rain is all in the wrong place to help with my boating hobby, the lakes I fish in are all NW of the metroplex and way down, so I would need wheels on my boat and the fish are probably all walking. The little rain we're getting is just enough to make the field muddy, not enough water for float planes.

Lucky for me I have two more hobbies that I can do indoors.

Can't wait for spring.

Yep... a sick engine or ailing plane is like having a stone in the shoe, ya just never feel comfortable but oh what a relief to get the stone out. Glad to hear the issue resolved. I did check the fuel nipple on my recent install and found it also a bit loose. I'll pull the cowl on the Fun Fly and check it as well. Thanks for heads up.

Black Goop Exhaust. Solved! But have only one run so far. Mobile 1 Syn Car Oil! @ 20/1 It works great. Don't know about WEAR at all yet. So far so good.

Muffler leaks. Solved! It's welded up solid now! But with no black goop in the leaks it may not be necessary.

73 WA6IVD Ken

Not so sure I'd be willing to try that, but maybe my old age is affecting my adventuresome spirit.

I'm with you....

AV8TOR

Well, after A LOT of frustration I think I am finally starting to make some headway. I have just started flying a MX-2 that I just recently finished and I believe the 10gx is finally starting to come around and be reliable. Actually I should say that it will be reliable once I have some Viton tubing that does not split on the muffler pressure tap every time you look at it funny! Arlyn has reported similar and he is dead on, that Viton that comes with the engine is junk. I have flown the MX-2 about 10 times, 7 of those ended up deadstick. The few I had where it all ended well were of course the ones where the stock Viton held together for more than two minutes. I even tried Tygon and it just melted right off too...

But, when I could keep the tubing on I was able to run the throttle all over the place and it seemed to be good. One thin I can say is DO NOT try a one way valve on the pressure line!!! It did NOT like that at all, flooded the hell out of the engine the first time I tried to run it up at 2 turns out, tried to lean it and the mid range was garbage. I tried though. :)

So right now I have the stock Viton on with a piece of Tygon around it at the pressure tap. Does anyone know if the fuel line sold at Autozone or O'Reilley's is Viton? I will order some from Horizon as I have not seen it at any of the local hobby shops, I just did not know if it was used for something else so I could find it locally.

I finally got a chance to fly my Ultra Stick with the EVO 10cc engine today, perfect weather and a relatively dry field. I did every maneuver I know how to do and never had any issues. Still have not had any dead-sticks in several hours of flying. The engine just keeps on running. The muffler is staying tight, but does leak a little oil. I removed the O-rings a long time ago and used JB Weld.

Joey - Until you get something that will be a more permanent solution, use a piece of silicone glow fuel line. It won't split on you, and shouldn't see too much gasoline to turn it to goop right away. I guess what I'm trying to say, I'll bet a piece of silicone would get you through a day of flying.

Interesting comments on the check valve.

Best of luck!

Steve, nice to hear you're up to getting out and burning some fuel.

Thanks Al, it has been a challenge!

The Giant Super Sportster is too heavy for me to move easily, the chemo has really sapped my strength. I try to fly my little electric cub and .40 sized Stick when I can. Looking at my log book, it is sad to see my flying go from over 3 hours a week to less than an hour per month.

It is great just to get out to the field and join the peanut gallery, we have a great bunch of people in this hobby.

This past season I changed the vent line on my 15cc EVO to silicone glow fuel line, to see how it would hold up on the muffler tap. After a full season of flying, it's like new:cool: I'm sticking with silicone at this point.
Now, there is a wildcard here, and that's how the silicone will react to different seasonal and regional blends. In my case I was running 100LL AV gas.
Pete

I have been using a short piece of silicon fuel tubing on the muffler fitting for a number of years with other engines. It works fine for that. I run a short length of silicon tubing about 2 inches or so long, and join it to the regular gasoline tubing then. The silicon tubing isn't exposed to raw gasoline for any length of time, just the fumes maybe. So it holds up well off the vent line on the muffler. The silicon tubing can handle the higher temperatures on the muffler at the fitting better.

Will consider this piece of info my lesson for the day. Thanks!

Same here, I cannot tell you how frustrated I have been with the splitting Viton, metling Tygon, and numerous deadsticks!! I tried my latest "fix" Monday afternoon and had another deadstick in an inverted flat spin. The MX-2 came right out of it and I made the field, but just barely. I put it right up after that one flight, at that point I felt like I was playing russian roulette and sooner or later I am not going to make it back to the field. Such a stupid, easy, frustrating issue to have. The new Viton is ordered but I will try the silicon.

A little update on the results of new Viton on my engine. Long story short it did not make a dang bit of difference in how my engine ran at low throttle, the engine was just not reliable at anywhere below 1/3 throttle. So the last time I flew the MX-2 about 2.5 weeks ago I had yet another dead stick, except this time I barely made the field and plopped it in kind of hard folding the gear under. Thankfully it was a very easy repair but I was not at all surprised, when you make 20+ dead stick landings sooner or later you are going to get bit.

So I took the plane home and pulled the cowl off trying yet again to find what the problem could be. While I was looking at the engine I noticed the throttle arm where it connects to the barrel had started to come lose, I could wiggle the arm around on the barrel by a good bit. At this point I was fed up, instead of trying to fix the throttle arm I pulled the engine, boxed it up, and wrote a very long and detailed letter for Horizon Hobby Services. I told them all about the behavior at low throttle and then dropped in off at UPS.

I get some emails saying that they had it and were working on it followed by an email last Friday stating that it was being sent back. When I got home from work there was a box at the door so once I got it inside I opened it to find a note that basically said "Yea, after we put a new throttle barrel on it the engine would not run right for us either, so here is a brand new one."

I will give them an "A" for just replacing it after they could not get it to run right, but is this the solution? OS has just introduced a 10cc gas engine in Japan, it is not here yet though. They are using their new gas Glow plug on it like their 15. One big difference though is that the OS has a pump on the back which is what I personally think this engine needs, look at what they did with the 15gx.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_14284518427829&drKey=1 518&libId=i87x5eva01000br8000MA4ffgpssh&loc=http%3 A%2F%2Fwww.rcuniverse.com%2Fforum%2Fgas-engines-142%2F11614354-smallest-gas-engine-2-4-stroke.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.os-engines.co.jp%2F2015%2F0301%2F&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fww w.rcuniverse.com%2Fforum%2Fgas-engines-142%2Findex4.html&title=Which%20is%20the%20smalles t%20gas%20engine%202%20and%204%20stroke%3F&txt=htt p%3A%2F%2Fwww.os-engines.co.jp%2F2015%2F0301%2FSo

I guess I will just break this one in like I did the old one, that thing had killer compression once I had it broken it, it just would not run right. I would be very interested in the new OS engine as I am sure it would run well, I just hate OS prices....

EDIT. . The OS is listed in Japan at 32,800 yen which at current conversion is $272.66 which to have a reliable engine I personally would pay. Just saying. ..

For those who may still be looking for a tubing that is gasoline friendly and resistant to high heat, try the blue Fluorosilicone tubing that McMaster Carr sells. It also works extremely well as a clunk line in small tanks as it is much more flexible than Tygon or Viton. Good to 450 deg F. also. This has been my clunk line of choice for small tanks for some time now though I still prefer Viton in larger tanks. The Fluorosilicone also comes in a wide range of sizes. Only down side I have seen about the stuff is that like Viton, it isn't cheap.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#fluorosilic...tubing/=wnk7pk

Look at world hobbies I've got one on back order due in May or June. I bought a GGT15 from them and had it in 4 day's really good service you can't beat it. I had problems with HH and I wont buy anything from them anymore!!

Wow, $257 before shipping. Might be time to list my brand new in box 10gx.... I am pretty confident the OS will run right.. Do you know if it is ringed or ABC?

It's ringed

Done, ordered. It may take a while, and it is not cheap, but I am willing to bet that it will run right being from OS. I could be wrong, but I am willing to take that chance.

I really have wanted the 10gx to work, it just sips fuel and makes good power, I just cannot put up with the terrible low end issues I have had.

Have only about 8 flights on the Meridian w/ Evo 10cc, but it seems to be well matched to the plane. Black goo is really messy. Tried the 20:1 with Stihl premium with little improvement. Noted that manual says absolutely do not use Amsoil in this engine after I bought a bottle of their new super stuff for 2 cycle engines, so that's out. Interested in hearing further reports on the Mobil 1. I also just received my new Evo 15cc and note the manual calls for 20:1 for break in then 32:1 afterward for general flying. If that were to apply to the 10cc it might help.

Mobil 1 used to make a 2-cycle oil but stopped several years ago. There may still be some around but I doubt it.
I use Klotz Model Lube oil and it's been working fine in all my gassers. The major "goo" will subside on the 10cc after around a gallon or so of fuel has been run through.and the engie has fully broken in. At 20:1 you are still going to get heavier deposits than a typical gasser no matter what oil you use. I would not go lighter on the oil/gas ratio mix.

For those that might not know, OS Engines has a 10GGT, same as the 15GGT, i.e. looks to be strictly glow ignition for a gas engine. Won't be cheap, but I'm really curious to see and here how it does. Due in late May according to Tower Hobbies web site. $319.99 less whatever discount or special Tower may be running at the time. This look to be a pumped engine, should help with the idle.

Hawkerone, we're neighbors! Just north of you in SW corner of the Citrus Springs development (boonies), flying at Tri County just east of Dunnellon. I have a couple of planes flying with Evo GX10's. Would have been nice to fly with you, but I'm headed back to Mi tomorrow morning. Could have given you a chance to see what they can do, what you can expect once broken in.

Black goo is a result of rich mixtures and an engine that's breaking in. Both are pretty typical of ALL new gassers, no matter the size. When you get some time on it, you'll have the carb adjusted a little leaner (don't try that yet though!) and the black will be reduced - big time. Maybe to the point you just need to wipe it down after every other outing (6-8 flights). I run 20:1 in my 20's and 30's as well so I don't have a fuel jug collection. They run just fine, are not a big mess either.

I think the reference to Amsoil in the owner's manual is regarding their 100:1 oil. There are multiple Amsoil product lines.... Not going to make further comment on oil brand. I will say that about anything approved for 2 stroke air cooled engines should work well. If the oil doesn't pass that approval test, I'd stay away from it without knowing a LOT more about various oil properties or maybe in possession of plenty of experience to guide you. -Al

If you live down under you can still get the Mobil1 2T racing (fully synthetic), not sure for how much longer...

I've looked at some video clips of the GX 10 and was wondering if they all sound like a glow 2 cycle high reving . I thought they might sound like a Zenoah or dle, I am thinking of one for a big stick 40 would a 13-7 or 8 prop quieten it some