It's a glow engine design engineered to run on gas. It sounds nothing like a Zenoah or DLE. I've been running a 13x8 since break-in and it runs great.

I think they sound a lot like a glow engine. Regarding noise, prop size makes a very noticeable difference as one might imagine. These little guys make quite a racket when turning an 11x6 close to 14k rpm while you're breaking them in. Moving to a 12x6 and then to a 13x 6 as the engines broke in made noticeable differences at each step. Nothing official to point at, but with a 13x6 I don't think they're quite as noisy as a 20cc engine w/stock muffler.

Yes, they sound very similar to a glow engine. Most are surprised when you tell them it's not glow but gas. Probably what you're hearing on the video is a 13-6 or 7. When I upped the size on mine, the sound level didn't change that much but the performance did fall off noticeably. I have the Big Stik 60 (Great Planes) and installed the bigger brother GX15 and while it flew just fine, the noise was still of a 2 cycle glow and changing props had the same result: started with a 13-6 and it went like gangbusters. Switched to a 14-6 and she really slowed down.

Hello peeps. I noticed this clicking sound today when i was switching the prop to the recommended 11x6 for tanks 3 & 4. I know this engine had a roller bearing at the rod so i don't know what is normal. Everything else feels very smooth with the exception of the sound. Video exagerates the volume of the sound a bit, it's less apparent in person.

Evo 10gx click sound: http://youtu.be/8bOyxArgSLw

Opinions?

Thanks!

Chris

Both of mine click a little and always have but yours sounds notably more pronounced. Perhaps an inspection of the crank pin is in order.

How old is the engine? My first one was an early release and had a failed crank pin. After it was replaced I've had no issues with it and my second one has had no issues and it was manufactured about a year later.

Hello Brian,

How do I determine the age of the engine? I just bought it 2 weeks ago locally at the HobbyZone central office which happens to be in town. Other than that I don't know what else to go by.

Also, should I be able to see anything wrong with it by removing the back-plate alone? I read somewhere that any disassembly beyond that will void warranty.

Thanks.

Chris

Chris,
Mine was purchased on the first manufacturing run just before being released to the public. The crank pin issue was corrected after that on subsequent runs. You would have to ask the hobby shop when they got it in.
After talking with Pete Bergstrom from HH I removed the rear cover and could see the wear on the pin. You should contact Pete and/or HH and ask them before any disassembly.

Thanks for responding. I just sent him a PM. Hopefully it isn't anything big, my biggest deal is not having the plane during Memorial weekend.

Cheers!

Chris

Are you talking about the 10cc motor? I did not think they had a diaphragm? My 10cc does leak fuel as it is inverted but I figure being just a barrel carb it would do this.

Glenn

BTW, the fuel running out the carb issue, noted a while back, turned out to be a really tiny crease in one of the internal diaphragms. It wasn't allowing one of the "flappers" to close properly. That part replaced, we're back in business.[/QUOTE]

Glenn,
Yes, 10cc. You're correct in that there is no pump diaphragm, but the regulator uses 2. The one I had that was leaking (side mounted) stopped leaking when they were replaced, for the reason mentioned. -Al

Thanks Al,

Will have to pull mine apart and have a look at it, where did you get your spare parts?

Glenn

On mine, there was just the tiniest crease in the diaphragm, right next to one of the "flapper" valves. Parts came from Horizon. In stock as of this morning.

Watch carefully when disassembling!

http://www.horizonhobby.com/carb-gas...-10gx-evog108a

Roger on the care when pulling apart, I gather there are some springs involved and a need to remember how it all goes together? Just ordered the parts from a local supplier, Horizon is way to expensive with shipping.

Thanks again will report next month when I sort this problem out once I return from work.

Glenn

Hi Guys
I need to replace the main bearing on my EVO10cc, as it almost looks pressed in and nothing to tap with a brass punch - any ideas? I heard of heating the case in an oven, but how?
Thanks

I've had good luck heating the bearing area with a heat gun.
Pete

Try and try, and you shall succeed!

I stuck it in the oven and just as soon as it came up to the set 350f temperature, i took it out and tapped the case upside down on the kitchen counter - the bearing fell right out!
I will try the reverse when installing the new.

Also freeze the bearing overnight, between hot case and cold bearing it will drop right in. It is common to go through bearings in rc car and heli engines, have done the same many, many times.

WoW!!! I have had an Evolution 10 cc gas engine in a Phoenix 46 size Spitfire for some time and have been quite disappointed with its performance. Up until now, the engine flew the plane but marginally. However, today was another story. I was using a 6 volt Nimh battery on the ignition until today. That battery went bad and I replaced it with a LiFe 6.6 volt unit and it made a world of difference. That engine came alive and performed great. I'm not sure that the battery was the difference (the engine breaking in may also contribute) but it sure seems so. I don't know if anyone else has experienced similar situations but there really was a huge difference in performance. I am finally quite pleased with the Evo 10 CC engine performance.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee

I've only used the Life battery myself but I do know that this engine takes some time to break in. Mine used to struggle while it was breaking in but once I got a couple of gallons through it the engine came alive.

I've stated this many times as well. The engine does improve dramatically after 2 gallons of fuel have been run through it. A few minor needle adjustments to dial it in and it still is running great going on 5 gallons now.
As far as the battery , unless the 6v pack was failing a higher voltage battery will have no impact on the quality of spark.

I'm still not quite so sure that the battery did not have anything to do with the much improved performance. I had to richen the needle valve 3/4 of a turn with the new battery. Breaking in more may also have contributed but I still think the battery change also contributed.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

I've had problems with mine on a 4.8V battery, switched to a LIFE at 6.6Volts and the issues went away. I never debugged further...

The CDI ignitions supplied with the EVO gassers are designed to be run on up to a 2S lipo. Even the old ignitions that were strickly limited to 4 cell battery input could get flakey with a battery that was not holding up under load. Running these new HV ignitions on 4 cell Nimh is marginal at best.
When you get down to the 10cc size, ditching the second battery and going with an IBEC is a good move.
Pete

Agreed. If you can bring yourself to ditch the second battery, you'll be ahead.