I found that the RCEXL Module #6, for the new DLE 35 engine, would not run well at all if a 4 cell NiMh battery was used with the IBEC. I switched over to 5 cell packs and they work great.

I have the technical details if anyone is interested.

Kurt, your problem could also be an air leak in your fuel system. After you get it all back together, plug or clamp off the vent line and use a suction bulb to pull a vacuum on the line going to the carb. Don't try to find the leak using pressure.

I think the vent on the carb cover is a DIY project.

I'm running dual 6v 1950 NiMh batteries. I'll check the fuel lines as suggested.

Kurt

Steve is right.

There's no reason you should change the carb cover. These run great without that. Some dynamic from active flight that's not present on the ground is the missing link in this mystery, and you need to unravel this mystery to solve it. The motion has to be messing with the gas flow, or the gas setup is flawed. In situations like this, I've seen vent lines hooked to the carb, and everything was fine until the plane started to move around. And THIS one I did myself: I set up the tank perfectly, with the vent up, and slipped it into place and secured it. It looked perfect. But - uhh, brain cramp, the plane was inverted when I put the gas tank in. So, it didn't exactly work the way I intended when it was rightside up again, and the vent was suddenly at the bottom. In another one, the tubing from the cap to the clunk was loose, and once the fuel level started to drop, the clunk line flopped around and allowed air to enter, and it stalled the plane. It wouldn't do it on the ground, because the pickup tubing wasn't flopping around.
The one thing about gassers is that the gas system has to be PERFECT, or it'll act up. Do you have a filter inline? Remove it, and test it without the filter. I've had filters with air leaks that caused the plane to stall in the air after running perfectly on the ground. Every single tubing connection is another place where you can have an air leak. If you don't have collets to slip over the barbed connection, use good zip-ties like 3M, and make sure you zip them up TIGHT around the barb. SOMETHING is happening when that plane starts to move, or climb, or......????? Lines that flop around are moving, and moving lines can lean one way and cause an air leak at a connection. Do any of your connections have just one barb? Those are likely to bleed air. Zip-tie them good and tight, behind the barb. Are you using a gas filter that comes apart for cleaning? Take it out of line, those filters often bleed air where they separate. In fact, take anything out of line that doesn't absolutely have to be there, like fillers, valves, tees, dots, etc. If the problem stops, start re-installing the removed items back into the system, one-by-one, until the problem starts again. Once it starts acting up again, whatever part you just put back into the system is the culprit.
If you need collets, find a local dental equipment supply company, and go buy some 1/4" collets from their service department. If you don't have anybody like that near you, you can find them online. If you live in or near San Antonio, I have them.
I'm betting it's the fuel. Even so, replacing the spark plug again is a cheap bit of insurance.

Before you start changing the carb, troubleshoot the hell out of your fuel system.

Jim

A 4 cell NiMH battery is driven to about 5 1/2 volts when fully charged. That's where the IBEC's Vreg is typically set so there's practically no voltage to drop. As the battery gets used and volts drop, the IBEC's built in Vreg does nothing. The CDI sees what it sees which is often lower than it needs to work right.

A 5 cell reduces the problem but it also may not have enough voltage at some point during a session, to drive the IBEC Vreg properly. A LiFe 2 cell is a better solution

I know the tank is plumbed correctly, but I did have one of these screw together fuel filters in the carb feed line. I say did, because its not there now. All fuel line connections now have clamps or zip ties on them, but the only ones that didn't before were the ones on the clunk hose in the tank. That hose had softened up in the gasoline and while it wasn't falling off, it pulled off both the tubing and the clunk with no resistance. I'm using Tygon for all hoses except in the tank. The Tygon was too stiff and the clunk wouldn't move properly so I used the black Neoprene hose that DuBro sells. It was recommended by a friend who runs the stuff inside all his gasser tanks. http://shop.dubro.com/p/2-ft-neopren...essories?pp=12

I've now had a fuel bulb sucking on the carb feed line for hours, and it isn't changing. So I think this indicates my fuel system is sound.

Once I finish putting it all back together I'll give it another try. Thanks for the suggestions and input!

Kurt

Hi Jim,
I have a XYZ 53 CC Gasser. Been flying it for months. 7,500 RPM with a 20-10 Master Airscrew Classic Prop. I'm using NGK CM6 plugs. 40-1 oil mix and a 2 cell lipo with a 5 volt regulator.
You can get the regulator from Hobby People in California. It's called a "Switch harness with BEC. AIRPRT 96700. You can NOT use a NIMH battery. I think the NIMH batteries might be OK if you had a capicitor to smooth out the Voltage Peaks.
I think that I should be using more prop and that 7,500 is really too fast for the engine. I have several 20-8-14's but I don't want to break them. I have my motor mounted on 5/8" stand offs with the Carb Down and the Mufflers UP. Runs great and Hand starts.
Larry Kopecky
Conyers, Georgia
[email protected]

Here's a new one for we owners of the Syssa 30cc.

Has any one hooked up Spektrum Telemetry RPM to a Syssa engine? I use Spectrum TM1000 for temp & voltage, and would to get RPM.

Some Spektrum blogs have been recomending a tapping into the hall sensor wire, but I have not been able to get that techinque to work for me.

Michael

Here is what I did and it works great.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1943167

I have slop on prop shaft. After a flight I grabbed my spinner and it will move back and for about 50 thousandth or so. It feel like the front bearings are sliding back and forth on the boss. Without reading every page, can anyone tell me if I can fix it or does it need to go back to Syssa?

Any help would really be appreciated.

Chuck

I literally have hundreds of flights on my motor. It has a season of IMAC and two full season of pattern contest. I am wondering about what I should be doing for maintenence.
I think I am ready for a new set of rings. The compression feels okay. But it certainly down in comparison to the first few hundred flights. Has anyone installed the Frank Bowman rings on their Syssa? Other than Carb maintenance and rings, what else is their to do?

So, I've been out of the loop for a while, what's going on with Syssa these days? Should I send my engine in for service, or just buy the VVRC 40cc?

I chose the latter.

~ Jim ~

What kind of service do you need? I have been running my Syssa 30 cc for 3 years now and have not needed any service yet. I go through about 5 gallons of fuel each summer. Have done a carb overhaul only once. Just keep the gas really clean. Bearings are good, great compression and flys a Funtana 125 with ease.

I spent a bunch of time overseas, and when I came back, I couldn't get the engine running. (just a couple cough's) I'm not sure what is going on.. The ignition is sparking and I rebuilt the carb, so I'm thinking that there must be a leak somewhere....

Is it getting fuel to the card? Have you checked the gap of the spark plug? Is the plug wet after trying to start the motor? It is easy to reassemble the carb with the gasket and pump diaphram wrong. Check that out.

Yes to all

'bout the only thing left to check is the timing.

IMHO, I don't think the timing is going to keep it from starting, and if it was running OK when put away, it's unlikely the timing has changed?

What makes you believe it's getting fuel?

"A couple coughs" is a pretty good description of what some of my engines have done on the start following a botched landing? Landings that had me picking grass clippings out of the cylinder? That silicone inside the boot is pretty easily damaged to the point it will let spark leak through it to the metal boot. If this occurs, many times you'll have a very visible spark with the plug removed, but under compression, things don't go quite as well. You may get that occasional cough, followed by a puff of white smoke? Very often you can hear the spark as well?

So, is there a chance the plane was dropped while you were away? A bad landing just prior to your departure? Do you have another ign. module you can swap into it?

It was running great when I put it away. I've swapped ignitions already with no avail. I know I'm getting fuel because after a bunch of flips, the engine floods and I have to pull the plug and start again. The plane sat in my garage over a period of about a year before I tried to run it. It was not dropped.

Throw it in a box and call Todd. You'll have back in couple of weeks.

new plug, gap check good, ignition swapped from an engine that runs fine.

DLE has A 40 twin coming out I think

Hi. I Have never posted to this thread but I have read every one since it started. I was one of the first to buy a SYSSA 180 engine. My choice was because it was made in the USA, I have had some problems with the engine but Todd has bent over backward to make it right. Some times he is hard to contact but he always has come through. My biggest complaint was all of the dead sticks that I had. Cost me a couple of fuselages for my H9 Taylor craft. Long story -Short, I Could not get the high speed mixture rich enough. Run excellent on the ground but would flame out on the back leg of the pattern. Even with the high speed needle 3 turns the mix was still lean. Did all the things to correct, clean, vent cover to fuselage, check fuel system and more. In desperation I installed a carb from a sweet running Zenoah ei 26. Solved all my problems. No dead sticks since. I am not new to small 2 cycle engines. Ran a small engine repair for about 25 years. Just my thoughts.

Welcome to the Universe, Mombodad! I see that was your first post.

In reading thru the long thread did you catch the part where Todd would put on a standard carb if the original was a problem? You may need to take yours apart and soak out junk blocking the metering system. Mine has always been steady but like you had a few flame outs in flight leading to the event where we yell out DEAD STICK, LANDING!

I have two engines, and one, my first, has run flawllessly for 4 years, while the second one tormented me until I disassembled the carb and found some silicon junk in the internal channels. I lived near enough to Todd's original workshop to drive over and have him take a looksee. We installed a new carb and did a quick engine run up. Since then, they both run great.

Definitely check the cleanliness of the original carb. And watch your air flow set up for cooling issues.

Michael

I haven't tried this personally, but I have heard of guys simply plugging in a "Y" between the sensor and the CDI. Seems to work for them.
SS

Yup classic carburation problem.

Taking apart a Walboro carb is almost trivial and IMHO worth it even on new engines.

I've found that often brass shavings from manufacturing will make their way into the carb but are not detected in factory testing.

I take apart the carb, remove the membranes and set them asside and blow compressed air through each opening from the reverse side.

It is also a good idea to check the mesh screen while in there as an almost transparent & invisible layer of gunk often forms during initial engine testing.

Having the carb off also offers the opportunity to check the pulse ports. Many times the gaskets partially or in whole end up covering the pulse ports resulting in less than optimal engine performance.

I do this with all of my engines out of the box and also with the SYSSA's...

As a result I've never had one deadstick nor fail... I have one with well over 700 12+ minute flights on it now and still going strong.

I worked that angle for a few days, but just couldn't seem to get accurate readings:mad:. Either the Syssa ignition is like DA, which I have read won't work with the Y connector technique, or I'm missing some other setting or wiriing arrangement.
Thanks for your reply.
Maybe with all this cold weather, I'll find time to retry things again.
Michael

I must have missed the post that said Todd would replace the carb. Any how I sent the engine back , addressed to Joe, after I mailed to him a description of my problems. The engine was returned to me 10 days later, post paid. The crankcase had been replaced with a new version 2. The carb was replaced with a Tillitson unit. It appears that the only parts that were original were the cylinder and piston which had been replaced after a previous crash. The Tillitson carb had a different choke arrangement which needed a different linkage.

I have yet to run the engine because of the cold weather we have been having in western NY but I am sure it will be fine. The point of this post is to commend Joe and Todd on their Service. The cost of all of the repairs have been $0 except for crash damage.

Dick

I just got my engine back from Todd and it now has a V2 case and a Tillotson carb. A couple things strike me as odd, the first being that the choke butterfly/plate won't close completely. It closes about 80% but the plate is hitting the casting in the throat of the carb and from the looks of it, it physically can't close all the way. Without it closed all the way it won't work, which is my second problem. The choke seems completely ineffective and the engine won't draw fuel. The only way I've been able to start it so far is to pull the plug and squirt fuel directly into it. Once this is done it starts just fine. This leads me to problem number three, and that is that the idle speed is way too fast. With the throttle arm against the stop the engine continues to run at a fast idle. There should be an adjustment screw for the idle stop but unlike the Walbro on my DLE engine, the hole where I think the idle adjustment screw should be, is empty. Any thoughts?

Kurt, can you post some pictures? I'd like to see the new V2 case and carb. See if you can get one of the butterfly too. Strange, Is the butterfly too big for the throat? Curious if it's the same diameter intake as the old carb. What model number is it. Sometimes if the butterfly is off center just a tiny biy it will hit the side wall before it closes.
The high idle is probably a lean low needle.

Great to hear about your experience with service.
That means we can fly harder.;)

Certainly! To me, the case looks the same. You can see though that is says V2 on it. You can also see the throttle plate is closing fully, that there is no idle adjustment screw, and that the choke plate is not closing fully. There is no adjustment on the choke plate, it physically seems too large for the opening.

Hi there is the screw tight . I had what seemed a similar prob and the screw was loose . Cheers

Hello Kurt,

It looks like the non-– brass plate is your choke, from what I can see in the photos. I will assume here that you have already checked the exterior linkages for obstructions. I'm in agreement with tele1974, when those butterfly plates are not in perfect alignment, this can happen. What I would try first would be to loosen the screw in the center of the plate, just a little, to see if it will allow the plate to re-align and close. If that works, then I would take some paper and position it around the edges before you lay the butterfly flat, or use whatever method you prefer to make sure there is enough clearance so that it doesn't bind against the walls. Hopefully that will straighten it out for you, and you can retighten the screw. Beyond that, you may have to remove the plate and remove some material, or relieve the venturi walls. More likely, though, it's just out of alignment. Even so, check the venturi for burrs or irregularities.

If you have to do any deburring/grinding in the venturi, dismantle the rest of the carb first, and use carb cleaner to clear the passages before reassembly so the fine grindings don't foul up other parts of the carburetor.

I don't recall whether or not they use a mechanical lock such as Loctite to secure those plate screws, but it would be worth checking to see if they do. Sorry, I don't know which type of Loctite would be indicated for that application.

~ Jim ~

I don't see a spring on the choke plate shaft. Did you remove it?

Nope, thats how it came.

I'll try try loosening the choke plate screw and see if it will come into alignment. Seems a little odd to me that I'm having to do this.

Yeah it looked to me that the choke plate might not be centered in the bore? Could be loosening the screw, closing the choke fully and retightening the screw is all it needs.