You wont get the same transition that you get with a glow. My DLE runs pretty much the same as you describe, half throttle and its pretty much full bore and it is tuned correctly. To overcome I used a combination of linkage and throttle curve to get the stick movement to mirror how I want the throttle to happen.

You could swap the carb for a true Walbro, like what I have on my DA-100, which has a much finer throttle curve, but is still WOT at 3/4 throttle.

Smaller gassers never throttle quite as well as larger engines regardless of what carb is used or the brand of the engine. My DLE 20 is pretty darn good though. Just bought another one a couple months back.

I've compared the Walbro carbs supplied on new DLE engines to new in the blue - white Walbro box carbs and they compare in every way I can see. I have no reason to believe the Walbro carbs supplied on DLE engines are anything but true Walbro carbs. I'm open for any info that would prove or suggest otherwise. I really had few complaints about the clones.

The DLE20 I have does not have a true Walbro carb, it looks similar to one, but it is not one. I have a Walbro off something else, and comparing the two there is quite a difference. The Walbro is better made, smoother passages, and transitions better.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...a74e46de78.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...7345268939.jpg

You show two completely different carbs. The top photo shows a DLE clone of a Walbro WT series carb. The bottom photo appears to be a Walbro WJ series ... probably a WJ-71 as used on a 85 - 120 size engine. If the DLE carb is branded with with DLE it is not a Walbro and is indeed a clone. DLE has been supplying Walbro carbs on their engines for over 2 years now so unless an engine is old stock, it should have a Walbro on it.

Yes, the clone carbs had some issues but for the most part, they were dealt with in early production models and they were good reliable carbs. In one case, I prefer my DLE clone carb on a DLE85 better than a the Walbro WJ-71 .... and I had to fix a problem on that clone! But the clone still throttles better than the WJ-71. And yes, I prefer the genuine Walbro carbs in most cases. It is a better product than the clone but the clones really get a bad rap in these forums.

You sound normal now. As stated before, very little change above 3/4 throttle is normal ..... for the DLE engine and any other kind of engine that uses a butterfly throttle valve. Just the nature of the beast. Enjoy the engine. The 20 is one of my favorites.

Try Speedracer's solution I had that problem with mine and that did the trick.

I wrote this for somebody new to gas the other day. Reprinting here FYI.
If you have the patience to play with that a bit to do it correctly, you are in for a very pleasant surprise regarding what is possible regarding low speed throttle control. The plan is to spread that first half of the throttle arm travel across a much wider amount of stick travel. This should allow you to easily pick up or drop just 100 rpm if you want, at speeds from an idle to half throttle. To do well with the plane you have, you're going to need that kind of control.

A lot of guys will set this up with a throttle curve. Setting it up kinda like 10/20/30/50 or 60/100 for a 5 step. Point is you're really spreading out the first half of the throttle arm travel. A butterfly type carb (on ANYTHING) is pretty much all in at about 60% open. There's very little left on the table as the carb opens fully beyond that.

You can also do this same thing mechanically. Check out the drawing below. In practice, if you follow it as illustrated, you really don't have enough control down low, like for setting your idle speed. The illustration is done the way it is to help make the point. You'll find if you start at something closer to that shown in the second step, you'll still have plenty of the differential you need, AND have good control over your idle speed.

2 notes. First, with a throttle curve only (electronic) setup, you don't have anywhere near the servo resolution you have with the mechanical setup. Second, a lot of guys, myself included are absolutely anal about good throttle response. For the best possible, you start with the mechanical setup, then trim as necessary with a throttle curve. That will leave you with the absolute best of both worlds!




https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...51721f96ef.jpg

Well took you long enough to get my point. Mine has a DLE carb, not a Walbro. If the Op has a DLE carb, then I suggested swapping with a Walbro. Those were stock photos I found on Google since I wasn't at home to get actual pics. My DLE is about 5 years old.

I have two DLE 20's one with a DLE carb and the other has a Walbro the both run the same.

I have one DLE 20 that runs like the OPs, and one XYC with a Walbro that runs like my DA100. The XYZ is a clone of the DLE.

I found it difficult to understand what your point was regarding a "true Walbro" and whatever you were comparing it to. A false Walbro? A clone of a Walbro? If you had stated that replacing the DLE carb (a Walbro clone if it was one) with a genuine Walbro, the point might have been easier to get. The photos of two completely different carbs further muddied the comparison waters. I'm still trying to figure what all the comparisons between a DLE20 and a DA100 are all about. Oh well. Probably all just forum writing where we try to say too much with too few words ..... and if we were conversing in person we would get to the point much sooner then just go fly!

I stopped thinking about the Walbro vs. clone talk years ago. For me, there is no difference. My concern lies only in if the carb is right or not. If it's not right after a good cleaning and a kit, then I go get another one, and in my expereince, it makes no difference which one I get. I'm just as likely to get a clunker with one as I am the other. Nice and simple. Keep the complicated stuff for more fun - like how to improve your landings or get through that maneuver you're working on correctly.... -Al

Yeah, your right about that. What I meant is a Walbro "type" vs a true Walbro. The DLE vs DA comparison is what I have and fly. I didn't need to set up a throttle curve on the DA, which has a real Walbro on it, and I had forgot that I have an XYZ with one as well, and both of those compared to the DLE provided carb were easy setups, where the DLE carb is more like an on/off switch than a throttle. Took a lot of messing with the linkage and radio to get some sort of semblance of a throttle with it. I also forgot I have a DLE30 on a P-47, only flew it twice, but that one also has a Walbro on it, no linkage or radio setup was needed for it either.

So thats what I was trying to say to the OP regarding the issues he has, I have the same ones, with just ONE engine, the difference between them is it has a DLE made carb, all the rest have Walbro carbs

i have a few older DLE 20cc engine and just bought another one a few months ago. i know DLE has resigned the exhaust muffler. i'm running a 16X8 master air screw prop. at full throttle i would top out at around 8300-8350rpm's. now i'm around 7600-7700rpms. i've noticed between a 300-500 rpm decrease at full throttle. why? otherwise, all engines run well. thanks for the help.

A decrease usually is a mixture issue, more air than fuel usually causes it, or the opposite, but that usually presents as sloppy midrange too.