Greetings, Would really appreciate your opinions please.
Now ready to order the H9 1/4 Cub.
I think I'm pretty well sold on the Zenoah G-26, what do you think?
Muffler?

Servo's: Futaba, just the standard ones?

Does anyone ever put smoke on a J-3?
If yes, recommend a smoke system please.

Hardware: Would you use all the H9's enclosed hardware or purchase other?

Any other info much appreciated.
Thanks
Ray

RAY44:

*Greetings, Would really appreciate your opinions please.
*Now ready to order the H9 1/4 Cub.
*I think I'm pretty well sold on the Zenoah G-26, what do you think?
*Muffler?

I have an OS 160-FT on my World Models 1/4-scale Cub. It has more than enough power, and a delightful Cub sound. I see no need for a G-26, unless you relly want to go gas.

*Servo's: Futaba, just the standard ones?

I would use 70-oz servos because of the larger control surfaces. I happened to have several JR coreless available, but Hitec is good.

*Does anyone ever put smoke on a J-3?
*If yes, recommend a smoke system please.

Haven't, but see no reason not to. The airframe has plenty of room, and carrying capacity. I would probably buy Slimline.

*Hardware: Would you use all the H9's enclosed hardware or purchase other?

I went to FC rods and 4-40 clevises. I have started using control hookups from Central Hobbies.

*Any other info much appreciated.

Consider a good after-market landing gear, such as Robart, if you can afford it.

Your welcome, Burt

Burt, I guess my reason for going with gas is the ease of clean-up although I don't have any experience with gas folks say
it's cleaner. The other engine I was considering was the Saito 180.

What size fuel tank did you use??

On the servos, the manual recommends a standard servo, I was kinda thinking of maybe the 70in/ounce also so guess that's
what I'll purchase.

The standard landing gear, I'd not even considered replacing so I'll go take a look at the Robart.

Smoke, well I'll probably not do that, although I'm kinda tempted (just cuz)

FC rods and 4-40 clevises, again I'd not considered but guess I'll take a look at them also.

Think I'll place my orders tomorrow or Mon so better get busy with the rest of my research.

Thanks Again
Ray

RAY44: I have stayed away from gas because of the handling and storage risk. Gas engines only really come into their own above 80" wingspan on an aerobatic plane, IMHO. I just don't think that slower airplanes or <80"WS need gas. My 2 cents. Burt

Ray:

Good choice on the G26 combo. That seems the engine the pilots in my club have been using.

A friend is flying a G23 on a 81" clipped Cub with smoke. I believe he's using the TME smoke pump from a 24oz tank. Works great as long as you build a support platform right on cg. The 70oz. servos would be a good safety factor along with buying 4-40 push rods and metal clevis if the ARF doesn't come with them.
My clipped 81" flew with an OS 120 before I got into gas. You'll be able to fly three weekends for all of $1.50 fuel cost. Great stuff !!

Hi Burt, Ok on the gas with 80" span.
The H9 Cub has a 100" span would that prompt you to go with a gasser?

Also, wonder if I should stick with the stock G-26 muffler or go Pitts style?
Thanks,
Ray

Hi Burt, Ok on the gas with 80" span.
The H9 Cub has a 100" span would that prompt you to go with a gasser?

Also, wonder if I should stick with the stock G-26 muffler or go Pitts style?
Thanks,
Ray

Bennett offers a muffler to replace the stock one. The dual stack doesn't seem to affect my 23.
You'll have to do a lot of cowl cutting for carb. opening and exhaust.

Randy, I noticed in a photo I saw somewhere that a rather large amt of cowl needed to be removed when
using the G-26. I hate doing that, but not much way around it.

Probably less cowl removal if I could convince myself to use a Saito 150/180..........here I go agn.........changing my mind.
No guess I still stick with the G-26.

Wonder who has the best prices on the G-26??
Thanks
Ray

G26 is perfect for a 1/4 scale Cub. I can see people object to the smell of gasoline (me included), but how is gasoline any riskier to handle and store than methanol? Both are just as volatile and flammable. I don't think their flash points are much far off each other. I've known some racers who regard alcohol as more dangerous because the faint blue flame is practically invisible during the day.

Ray, most folks mount their gasser inverted. Unlike glow engines, gas ignition engines don't mind being mounted inverted. In fact, some may argue they actually run better that way. With that narrow J-3 cowl, you pretty much have to mount the G-26 inverted. Slimline makes a very nice wrap-around muffler for an inverted G26/G23. It's a little pricey, but will probably allow you not to have to butcher up the cowl. I believe MAN used this exact combo when they tested the H9 1/4 Super Cub.

Lightweight glow engines do better than gasoline engine on 1/4 scale aerobatic planes (~ 72" wing and ~ 10-12lbs) like CAP 232, Edge 540, etc. On these 1/4 Cub floaters, gasoline engine work very well.

4stroke glow boxer twins are great, too, if you don't mind the price tag.

Hi Volfy, Seems a good point "gasoline any riskier to handle and store than methanol" and I'm still pretty much
sold on the G-26.

Going to check out the Slimline Muffler you mentioned, I've also looked at the Bisson Pitts.

Yes on 4stroke glow boxer twins, they sure are a tad pricey. Don't want to irritate wife any more than necessary and
so far (she's aware of my Cub project) she's not given me any grief..........that's kinda weird.

Later,
Ray

I actually have a NIB Bisson Pitts muffler for the G23/G26. I bought it for my G23 but I ended up mounting the G23 inverted on my GP Spacewalker ARF so I didn't use it. I figure I will eventually get a G-26 and use the BCM Pitts with it, but I've got too many gassers in the 25-31cc size already. Have a look around at the various aftermarket mufflers for the G-26. I still think you'd be better off mounting the G26 inverted on the J3 Cub, but if you decide the BCM Pitts is what you need, let me know and I'll give you a good price on it.

FWIW, I'm putting together a Sportsman Aviation Super Decathlon 86" wing right now with a 30cc Homelite engine. After I'm done with it, I'm gonna put together one of the two World Models 1/4 Cubs I have. I'll put on that a 25.4cc Echo weedie engine, which is very similar to the G26. Too many planes, too many engines, too little time.

Ray:

As I did on my H9 80"er, I ordered a replacement GP Super Cup cowl which gives a much wider work space. I believe you can find a glass one from Stan's that will fit the H9 and will not require any major cut outs. I personally like the looks over the narrow stock cowl.

I beg to differ; gasoline is more volatile than methanol, and easier to ignite with a spark. The 100" wing on the Cub is just going to fly slower than my 88" Clipped-wing Cub. The gas engine will do fine on it, and the airframe is large enough to handle the extra weight of the Zenoah. Don't feel that you should avoid gas if that is what you want to do; many people like the easier cleanup. Burt

I ordered the H9 1/4 Cub and also the G-26 & Bisson Pitts muffler a bit ago.
I think the combo will work out fine.

Also need to order the radio gear and thinking Futaba 3010's for aileron/rudder/elevator and
a 3004 for throttle, what do you think?

Battery Pack Size?

Geeze the Robart Cub gear is beautiful, kinda pricey though, sure would like to order that also.

Also wondering abt putting the choke on the radio, crazy??

Later
Ray

Those servos will work fine. As for battery size, well, that's another one of those topics some people argue with a religious fervor. Personally, I don't see the point of carrying a whole weekend's worth of capacity on every single 10-min flight. I prefer to use smaller packs and top off between flights with a $45 peak field charger. On sedate sport planes like the 1/4 Cub, I usually use 600 to 850mAh, 5-cell for RX and 4-cell for ignition. Fully charged, they will easily last 5 flights or more. That gives me a lot of safety margin, when I peak charge every 1-2 flights.

Servo actuated choke is nice, but the carb is going to stick way out of the J-3 Cub cowl any way you mount the engine, so finger choking will not be a problem.

The Robart gear is nice. The WM 1/4 Cubs come with a fairly scale looking main gear already, though not quite as detailed and pretty as the Robart.

Hi Volfy, Well I ended up with different servos. seems nobody had the 3310's.
So I went with Hitec 4-545's & 1-3004 and the horror stories I've been reading here about Hitec.

Didn't get anything for the choke servo, and realize it's surly not necessary, but.........it'd b fun.

Wondering what to expect for covering quality with the WorldTex fabric, any idea?

Oh yes, one other thing, does H9 supply graphics with the cub, none/already applied/buy ur own??
And another: I went with the 1500mAh rx battery.

That's abt all I can think of for questions but sure I'll think of others.

I do appreciate all the info/opinions ect, was fun and a BIG help.
Tnx
Ray

Hitec 545 is a 5-pole ferrite motor and so is a better servo. I think Futaba came out with the 3-pole ferrite high torque S3010 to compete with the Hitec 605. Don't know about S3310, but I do have a couple of S3305MG that are very strong, likely introduced to compete with Hitec's 615MG. All are good servos. I personally don't pay too much attention to all the hoopla about Hitec servos. I believe in using the right tool for thr right job. Some of these guys use Hitec's inexpensive 3-pole ferrite high torque standard servos (605, 615, etc) on 1/4 scale or larger 3D aerobats - and they wonder why they had problems.

Don't know about Worldtex. I'm sure it'll look more scale than ultracote, but I'm not much of a scale buff.

..if you live in an apartment, or apartment style condo, your neighbours (and family) will object to the smell of gas - especially mixed gas. Gas is more volatile than Alcohol based fuels - it explodes rather than burns.

However, at the field, it is much easier to run. You support equipment consists of a jug of gas, a leather glove, and your transmitter.......you don't need the 80 lb flight box and starter!!

The pitts muffler is the way to go. There is some black residue - especially when the engine is breaking in, and the pitts dumps it out under the cowl.

The G-23/26 is a sweetheart of an engine, the only problem is the design puts the carb on one side and the muffler on the other, so cowl hacking is required to a narrow cub cowl around it. However, if you can live with that, you will have many pleasureable hours flying that combo.

nony, Man don't I hate to do major cutting to the cowl but with the stock H9 J-3 cowl I guess
it's unavoidable.
Maybe I'll take a look at the aftermarket FG cowls and see if that suits me better. I kinda doubt that cuz I don't
think I want to stick a Super Cub cowl on, like to keep the scale appearance as much as possible.

I wish I could find some photos of the H9 Cub with the G-26 installed but havn't had any luck so far.
If you know of any, sure would appreciate a link to them.

Ok on ur comment gas being more of a potential problem.
No problem with storage here and perhaps I'm overly cautious with the stuff.

I've been cleaning up my shop this am getting ready to start the Cub, most likely things will be delivered
late next week.
Later,
Ray

I know you may not want to cut up the cowl, but a Saito flat twin does look pretty cool on a J-3, especially with the valve covers sticking out the side. I would probably go with a Saito 182 flat twin, just for kicks.

Patriot

Patriot: I agree that the Saito 182 twin would be superlative, but the OS 160 twin is cheaper (from Chief Aircraft).

Hi Patriot, I agree it would look really neat but I wanted to go with gas and I've already ordered the G-26.
Think if I changed my mind now and ordered a flat twin the only KICK I'd see would be from my wife.

Looks like I gotta cut
Ray

I fly a H9 Cub on an OS 120 and it flys very scale and does a beautiful invertedpass and any other stunt you might want to do. When you get yours in the air try a flat spin the Cub looks great in this manuver.[8D]

invertedpass, Is ur H9 Cub the 80" or the 100" ? either way I'll bet you didn't have to preform
major sugery to the cowl.
Sometime when you get a chance, maybe you'll post a pic here of it.
Ray