c016Y

Wanted to climb when inverted using rudder? Does that mean it had some pretty harsh pitch coupling to the belly in ke?

macanaw

My Feedback: (30)

Pitch coupling due to being tail heavy. A little mixing took care of it

c016Y

I thought you might have been a bit tail heavy causing extra coupling, but, do you remember what % you ended up with rudder->elev?

Also curious you mentioned you used CF wing tubes? How did you hold the wing in. I was thinking about using threaded inserts, but, didn't know if this would be enough.

macanaw

My Feedback: (30)

I needed about 11% to resolve it.

The evevator I glued in, but the wing tube used 6/32 bolts into a blind nut on the wing root.

3DFlight

Everyone,

Been watching this thread and finally have mine ready to fly. Weight is 30 pounds on the dot with equipment listed below:

Engine: 3W106 with Super Sonic mufflers
Spinner: Tru Turn 4"
Prop: 28 x 10 Beila
Batteries: 2@ 4000 ma NiMH for rec, 2000 NiMH for ignition, 600 NiMH for smoke
Electronics: Hitec Rec., Smart Fly Power Expander and optical ignition cut-off
Rudder servo: Hitec 5955TG
Elevator: 2@ Hitec 5625MG
Ailerons: 4@ Hitec 5625MG
Throttle: Futaba S148
Graph Tech main gear and tail wheel
Pilot: Aircraft International

I put 1/4-20 blind nuts into the wing cores to bolt the wing on and added a hatch under the stab to put a couple balsa sheets in between the longerons. I was then able to put cable exits for the pull-pull rudder cables. Here is a picture in the garage after running the engine. Hope for some good flying weather this weekend!

Blue Skies & Fair Winds,

Rege

macanaw

My Feedback: (30)

I should mention that I talked to Roco from Aero-works while in Colorado preformaing at an airshow. I dicussed my concerns over the planes weight with him, as it turns out many of the earlier planes produced had "very heavy wood" used to build them. Not sure the details on it, but the one he brought to the field that day was 27 1/2 lbs with a DA 100 and stock exhaust.

You may notice that they have discontinued this plane as a product. It is being replaced with an Extra 260 and from what I saw of it in Colorado, it should be a good flying plane and much lighter than the Katana.

red_z06

My Feedback: (11)

Chief told me that aeroworks and world models devorced. I guess that is why world models decided to produce the katana and ultimate under their own label and at the same time sell them at much lower price than aeroworks did.

c016Y

I bought the AI 3w 106 b2 used and this is my first large scale project. Just curious how you mounted that engine and if you could give me any pointers on engine installation, measurements, standoff lengths, firewall installation, etc. I am also worried about flying 3d with the plane and not having good baffling or something like that. I just read that you need baffling and have not idea how to do that either. All I have ever mounted is a nitro (ys 1.10 is the biggest).

Also.. where do you get the standoffs etc

macanaw

My Feedback: (30)

I did not use baffeling on my Katana running the ZDZ 100NG, however it never hurts to improve the airflow over the engine. Make sure you cut an opening at the rear of the cowl on the bottom for air to escape. Also do not use their recomendations for right thrust, only about 2 degrees is needed. Here are some pics of mine before removing some of the right thrust. Aeroworks motor box design is not a full box, it is completely open on top which is not a very strong design. Pick up some additional plywood to enclose the motor box then cut large circles to reduce weight and give yourself access to that area.

macanaw

My Feedback: (30)

An easy way to determine the correct length of box sides is to slide the cowl over Former F1 approximately ½�. Measure from front of former F1 to front of the cowl. Now measure the length of your engine. Subtract the engine length from your first measurement. This should be the required length for your engine box sides. It is always a good idea to cut the engine box sides slightly shorter then needed, approximately ½�. This will allow you to make adjustments by adding spacers between firewall and engine. Adding a spacer will also allow for the rear cylinder to be spaced away from the firewall to allow for better cooling.

3DFlight

I re-inforced the motor box with aluminum angle and used 1" aluminum bar stock center drilled with a .262" hole to accomodate 1/4-20 aircraft bolts. Here is picture of my son with mine.

Regards,

3Dflight

macanaw

My Feedback: (30)

WOW, looks good. What did it weigh in at?

3DFlight

Macanaw,

Here is a side photo of it in the driveway. It weighed in right at 30 pounds, maybe a half ounce over. As mentioned in a previous post, I used graph tech main gear and tail gear. Of all the guys talking tail heavy, I prepared for that and actually ended up putting the battery packs right behind the wing tube to get the balance in the center of the wing tube. I would sure like to have one at 27 1/2! Still, seems to fly well.

Blue Skies & Fair Winds,

3DFlight

i3dm

My Feedback: (51)

i just got a World Models Katana 36% and am thinking about buying a DA100 locally for it, or an MVVS 116CC.

any special tips ? ill be using a Duralite power Box EVO with 2 packs either 2800 Mah or 4000 Mah, and thinking about the 4000 mounted in the nose to add some weight.

what do you guys think about the batteires, and how do you feel about how 5995TG servos will work 1 for each control ? i.e. 1 for each aileron, elevator and rudder ?

3DFlight

i3dm,

The 5995 servos are plenty strong, however, I would still recommend two on the airlerons do to the size (particularly length) of the ailerons. You don't want to chance flutter.

Regards,

3Dflight

haneydmd

3W's run quite a bit hotter that most other brand of engines so baffling should be done for extra cooling on those hot summer days. Cactus aviation used to have pictures of baffling on their technical info page for a 150 but its the same. Up here in colorado the air is thinner and engines work harder, On my 106 I had to also place heat shields between the Stock [johnson mufflers} and the carb to stop the vapor locking. Gas vaporizes at a lower temp up here. Took a while to figure that on out but the engine haul perfect since. It only takes one time to wish you had done it. When a 3w heats up and dies it usually does it with very little warning as opposed to say a DA that will bog down and lose power before it goes. 3W will run great right up until it dies. This is why aeroworks used to recomend and use 3W a few years back but now uses mostlyDA. Rocco lost to many planes in a low torque roll when the engine died with no warning. I wish I could torque roll for 10 minutes solid like him but since I can't I stick with my 3Ws. Where you might be able to get by not baffling another brand I highly recommend it for 3W if you will be a 3ding. 3w are great engines, I have 3,best low end torque but like all engines they have their peculiarities. They also take longer to break in than most, closer tolerances in the manufacturing -darn german engineers.

b.bixel

My Feedback: (123)

What manufacturer and what size wing bags are you guys using on the Katana?

Regards,
Bart

i3dm

My Feedback: (51)

Hey guys,

i ended up getting the new Evolution 116CC for my plane, and order Jtec mufflers with pressure taps mounted in the back.

anyway, just went ahead to install the mufflers and did all the cowl cutting and so on, and only now noticed that Jtec put the nipples on the wrong side, and thus my mufflers outlet tubes are on the front and not the back. i dont want to flip them over (unless i have to) since the cowl sits perfectly now and its already cut, do you guys think the mufflers' other way around could cause trouble ? i seem to recall seeing DA's and such with a similar setup. please see pics.

im also thinking about air flow openings in the cowl, i added a pic of the cowl, with 2 white squares marked on it, can you guys tell me if this should be of sufficient cooling ?

thanks.

red_z06

My Feedback: (11)

Generally, you want exit air hole to be about 3 times the size of inlet. It appears your white patch is about same size as the inlet opening. Normally this may not be enought but you alread have addition slots under the mufflers. I would say that looks reasonable.

Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

On mine I just cut out most of the bottom i dont think you will be able to get enough air out of the small holes. I would just cut in between the two white squares and that should be enough.