3DDean

My Feedback: (1)

We are using a pitts style muffler. Should I block of where the cans would go. It could be getting some a in there and it could change the way it flys.


Thanks Dean

JEFFRO503

My Feedback: (9)

Hey Guys.......quick question :

For those of you that are using a header/canister on this bird..........what set up are you using? Is it a "0" drop header and what canister are you using and are happy with....MTW , KS ???

After reading through some of this thread , it seems that guys using a pitts style are having to run all their batteries up front for the weight. I figured using a header and can , would get a little extra up front , and besides , they create a little more power on top of that. I believe i'm going with a DL-50 on it.

MIXMASTER

My Feedback: (15)

The TOC-E Yak LG is fine by me, it survived an almost tail-touch hover landing, just bent a little. I tried Vess 22b with my DA50/DoubleVision, this prop revs way up there,changes the transition too, low end needs to be leaned quite a bit or its rich. If I get another Vess for the DA50. it will be a 22C or 23B. Actually, my DA50 loves a 22X10 wood prop, Ive used Zinger Pro, Bolly & TBM, get the cleanest transition with those. I added a little bit more right thrust to the engine, no other thrust changes, it hovers very good, plenty of control, a bit tail heavy with batteries up front but still flys great.

rollyshobbies

Hello, I have the TOC yak 54 30% and I love it. But I am looking to get Carbon wing & stab tubes. Can anybody tell me where I can purchase these and what sizes I need.

Thank you!

RCWI

You can find the C/F wing tubes @ www.troybuiltmodels.com. If you look under the 30% xtreme yak the size you need is listed, if not give them a call and they will be sure to help you.

NUTNDUN

I have mine coming from TBM, should be here monday. It will be my first gasser. Hopefully I don't ask too many noob questions.

NUTNDUN

Can anyone tell me if on the newer hp version is the firewall already epoxied on the front? Also I was thinking instead of using another piece of ply to reinforce the firewall would it be possible to use carbon fiber tube, maybe two or three pieces run across the front of the firewall plate and through each side of the firewall sides? Maybe have one just above and one just below the standoffs for the motor. I plan on fiberglassing the joints on the firewall also.

RCWI

Just got mine in the mail, and so far i have one word.. FLAWLESS!!

NUTNDUN

That's awesome. Is your's the HP version? You need to post some pics.

RCWI

Yes it is the HP version.. as soon as i get my new computer i will post some pics.... Put the fuse, wings, elev, cone, and canope on scales and was just over 8.5 lbs. Not a digitial scale. A bit dissapointed. Im planning to use a DL 50. Fly her as is without any CF parts. See how she flys, and then maybe upgrade.
Question... With the RX about in the middle of the fuse, and the battries on the engine box. I cant get any servos or battries to reach the RX without extensions.. Correct??? Is this the case with everyone??

NUTNDUN

When I ordered mine from TBM I emailed Bill about what extensions I would need. You will need 2 12" for aileron servos, 2 6" for aileron servos to make removing the wings easier, 2 36" extensions for the elevators. I also got 2 12" extensions that I could cut and solder to length for anything else that might need it. I can't wait to get mine. My DL came today and the plane will be here on Monday.

MIXMASTER

My Feedback: (15)

The HP version has the firewall already mounted w/ corner brackets. The right bracket on mine had to be removed & grooved to allow standoffs to fit. I dont know if they used epoxy or some Chinese brand but it was strong enough. The fire wall doesnt need doubling IMO, and with the brackets, fiberglassing wont make it any stronger, I use large washers behind the standoffs to help spread out the pressure when tightening. Mine came out 16.25lb. w/ 2700Nimh & DA50, very light & strong, great flying plane. I only needed 12" (maybe 16" max) for elevator extensions, I have the rcv. behind the rudder servo on the belly floor.

NUTNDUN

I got it today. It is bigger then I was expecting....too bad the wife doesn't tell me that LOL. Anyway it is my first gasser. I got it all unboxed and seems to be in good order. All I got done tonight was removed the aluminum angles because they were completely in the way to get the DL aligned. Those screws were a pain in the butt because of them coating them with epoxy. I also added a 1/4" ply to the front of the firewall. I need to space the motor out further anyway. I will need to get some bigger washers to help spread the load out. I would like to mount the tank into the cannister tunnel which I will do tomorrow and I guess go over the covering with the iron and hopefully get the motor mounted.

NUTNDUN

Hey guys, which slot on the newer yaks is the one for the pull-pull cables to exit. There is one directly under the elevator servos and then there is another set of slots 2 inches behind them at the same height except skinnier. I think it is the set just under the elevator servos but I want to make sure before I go and remove the covering. I already removed the covering off of the skinnier slots but they don't seem like they are the right ones. The cable hits the one former no matter what angle it is at.

RCWI

Im having a problem with the engine to be center the cowl. It needs to drop lower but the stand-offs are all the way to the bottom of the fire wall. And this leaves the engine slightly above center. Is ther a fix, or do i have to live with it, and will it affect the flight>?

NUTNDUN

Hi RC, I got my motor mounted today. The bottom stand-offs are below the firewall about an 1/8". It won't hurt anything.

Taildragger726

Look! NIB HP version for sale!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=423376

RCWI

ok I got it. i can see how others have done it. your right Nutndun. but i added 1/4" more ply in front to help with balanceing and made it a bit lower so the bottom stand offs are on all wood.. hope to have computer next week to send pic of build.. thanks for the help..

RCWI

ok I got it. i can see how others have done it. your right Nutndun. but i added 1/4" more ply in front to help with balanceing and made it a bit lower so the bottom stand offs are on all wood.. hope to have computer next week to send pic of build.. thanks for the help..

NUTNDUN

Ya, I added a 1/4" piece of ply too. I made it the same size as the one already on there and sumo glued it and let it sit over night then added new aluminum angle. I used big fender washers and lock washers on the back side. I made the hole in the cowl for the head of the motor a little too big but I guess if anything it will aid in getting some of the air out to cool the motor off. I still want to cut some vent slots in the bottom of the cowl where the drop down is for a can. I also moved my tank into the cannister tunnel, that thing was a pita to get off of the original mount. Two pieces of foam tape is what was holding it. I have the tank dead center on the wing tube.

NUTNDUN

I got one of my props drilled and mounted, got the ignition mounted and pretty much done, just need to finish the power wiring to it. Tail wheel is bolted on, I had gotten a graphtec one. Landing gear is mounted. Rudder is hinged with sumo glue. I got one of my badger switches mounted. Throttle servo is complete and I also got the manual choke setup. I am getting there. I need my control hardware I got from tower to finish. I ended up getting all dubro heavy duty stuff, but the hardware that comes with the plane is actually pretty good.

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Does the included hardware put the pivot point over the hinge line?

I have a 35% TOC E Yak that I haven't started yet, and it's the short hardware.

NUTNDUN

The included hardware is just like dubro stuff. So yes you could get the hinges on the hinge line

NUTNDUN

I need help with the pull pull cables. There are two slots on each side. One is larger and it is directly under the elevator servo. The other is right under the horizontal stab and skinnier. I uncovered both of em trying to figure out which one needs to be used. The skinny one under the HS is blocked by a former in front of it and I don't know how on earth I would ever get in there to notch out the former for the cable. The bigger one under the elevator servo would work but it seems I am going to have to lengthen it about 1/2 - 3/4" Does this seem right? I got the rudder servo mount up close to the cannister tunnel.

RCWI

i used the skinny one, jus under the first screw for HS