Modified

I did use a little wing saddle tape so it would fit snug. I did a lot of knife edge passes today from high alpha to high speed and even a couple of knife edge loops and still no probs with the canopy. I did have to mix in 4% up elevator to rudder to keep her tracking straight. So far thats all the mixing I've done, have anyone found any other mixing that their extra needed?

budgetdude

My Feedback: (6)

Its a five hundo arf though. It does fly well for how mutch it cost. I am pretty sure the EA planes were the practice planes the workers learned how to make to the CHP's and the PP's on. My mixing is different but I have a crooked stab also. I left my hatch except I now bolt it down to the hatch deck with nylon 440's through the canopy. Its not ideal but after 25 flights its solid. I initally added some right thrust per anothere operator but it pulls right on a no wind upline. Stock may be best.

Modified

I had the EA version first but after a flameout in a 30' hover she had to be replaced, so this time I went with a PP version. I think the EA plane was more stable in a harrier with no wing rock but other than that they fly about the same.

Hubb

My Feedback: (1)

Flight report,

flew the plane at the Clinton, IN IMAC this past weekend. 5 place out of 6 in Unlimited. about par for me . I did make trim corrections the whole weekend...took out more elevator and rudder rate and added more ail rate and ail expo. I got it close now it's up to the pilot to get some stick time and get tuned in with the plane. I feel as competetive as I can fly right now with it. it is still difficult to compete against seasoned unlimited pilots and flying against the 40%ers but I look forward to flying it this year especially after I get more stick time on it. Columbus IMAC anyone??

also, I did get to catch up with big Lew and chat. hope I get to meet up with some more of you with this plane sometime this year!

see you out there.

Hubb

Lew

Hey Hubb, Great talking with you. All I can say is better you than me flying against that group. I thought you made, us here on this thread, very proud. The plane looked great in the air and flies much larger than it actual size. Got a chance to see a few of your sequences and I like the way the plane presents itself. Mine stayed in the trailer this weekend but I wouldn't have been embarrased to pull it out and fly it.

See ya soon, "Big Lew"

ICE_MAN

Finally, with the help of some friends, Corey, Randy, And Tim we got the 106CS Mounted.. And Thanks To Chris Fry over at the Giants Site for helping a brother out with some Johnson Smoke Mufflers!

KatManDEW

My Feedback: (6)

That looks great on there Ice Man.

Mine flunked the range test yesterday, so I have another receiver and crystal on the way.

ICE_MAN

Looks good!


Couple Questions:

I'm ready to mount my throttle servo, I would like to mount it to the underside of the motor box on it's side.. I assume it would be alright just to epoxy/glass some blocks underneath there to screw the servo into? Maybe a little padding between the case and motorbox, but I didn't know if it would be to much vibration.

Choke.. Can I rotate th choke arm? The way it is it will be really hard to get a servo to operate it correctly

Mixture.. My mixture controls will be blocked by my mufflers.. Well at least the one closest to the engine (high speed?) will be.

KatManDEW

My Feedback: (6)

I'm an E-Tard, so I can't help ya Ice. But I'm sure someone who is flying engines like yours will chip in with solutions for you.

ICE_MAN

I wandered why your cowl looked so smooth!

I think i can epoxy/glass the blocks on and be OK,

KatManDEW

My Feedback: (6)

It didn't break my heart to skip the cowl hacking ordeal.

I don't see why you couldn't epoxy some blocks up there. I've seen it done. Epoxy itself should be plenty strong enough, if you get a good bond (I test stuff like that at work). Probably want to use basswood or spruce blocks. I personally don't like the idea of a servo that close to the ignition (and vibration source), but it doesn't appear to be a problem.

ICE_MAN

Ok well the servo is in. Epoxied, for now, but the mounts will later be glassed and then painted. I plan to paint the rest of the motor box and firewall to fuel proof it..

QUESTION: Do the Fromeco's have ANY charge at all in them from the factory? I plugged in my battery to terst the system and nothing happened.. not even a flinch. Maybe I have it hooked up wrong? The blue male wire on the battery connects to the blue female wire on the reg. The wire coming from the reg, with shrink wrap on it, connect to the pin switch... The blue MALE connector running from the reg. goes into my receiver.. Channel 7 I think. And the black male wire comming from the reg is left open as it's the charge jack..

I have made progress.. Mounted the throttle servo, routed the wires, installed and plumbed the ignition, I'm working on a sort of scoop to bring more air to the ignition module seeing as how it's inside the motor box, and I'm trying to get my servo's set-up but this batttery thing has me baffled!

KatManDEW

My Feedback: (6)

Do you have a volt meter that you can use to check for voltage from the battery, and then from the switch?

ICE_MAN

Got it, Had it plugged in to the reciever backwards

Hubb

My Feedback: (1)

just for fun, here are a couple screenshot pics of my plane in Aerofly Pro Deluxe and my extra sitting next to a Carden 260 at last weekends IMAC,

Hubb

grizzly59

Can you downlad a the file here or send a download of your Aerofly plane???Thanks.
Matt

budgetdude

My Feedback: (6)

Hey HUB are you going to be at the columbus challenge. I think I am going to come down from Mini.

Hubb

My Feedback: (1)

yes, I will be there

come look me up!

Hubb

ICE_MAN

Hey guys,

Good news! Next wednesday I get to order everything to finish up my Extra! I need to know EVERYTHING that I need to set-up a single servo Pull-Pull system with my 5955 Hitec servo.. I'm really lost when it comes to the pull-pull, so I'll have help insatalling in, but I don't know what all to order!

Anyone bringing their Extra to the Heart Of Ohio Huckfest!? It's June 30th - July 2nd in Peebles Ohio

ICE_MAN

OK well i just got done 'shopping'.. Here's what I came up with:

PULL-PULL:
24' Kevlar Cable (TBM) - $2.95
Cable Attacthment, 4, (TBM) - $36
Hitec 5955TG (TBM) - $104.95
SWB 4 Inch Rudder Servo Arm (TBM) - $20
Ball-Links (21)(AIRWILD) - $21.85

SPINNER:
4.5 inch CF (Extra)(TBM) - $100
Cut (TBM) - $15
Drilled (TBM) - $7

CHARGER:
Fromeco 3-Port (TBM) - $120

PROP:
28X10 Airwild NX G3 (AIRWILD) - $66

That's a total of $493.85!![X(] I think I can live without the spinner for a bit! But how does that sound for the Pull Pull Stuff? Is that EVERYTHING that I need to do it?

KatManDEW

My Feedback: (6)

Ice Man;

Opinions vary on pull-pull. I use PVC coated kevlar on several planes, but I didn't on this one because my cables are crossed and I didn't want Kevlar rubbing on itself. Probably not an issue though.

I could no how, now way, avoid a bunch of slack in the pull-pull without fabricating my own servo arm, before I found out that Precision Aerobatics has a half inch offset arm that looks like it would work as well as mine. Most people fly with slack in the cables, but I wasn't comfortable with it.

You can get a nice 4-1/4 inch white gel coat fiberglass spinner at Esprit Models for only $30. Carbon stuff is over rated. High priced. And usually not necessary for our model applications.

I hope to be at the Huckfest with mine, if they get the interstate highways fixed... I was just down that way today and there's about a 10 mile stretch of "highway" that's about as bad as driving through a plowed field at 65 MPH. I was pretty worried about it rattling the devil out of my planes in the back of my truck. One stretch has bone jarring, teeth gnashing bumps about every 10 seconds. My head was pounding by the time I got through it, and I really did not like exposing my planes to that kind of abuse. IF they don't fix it, there's a disgustingly very good chance I won't be there because my tax dollars are not paying off....

ICE_MAN

Thanks,

But is that the stuff I need to get my pull-pull flight ready? or would you recomend something else?



Cheers

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

I think you will need the offset arm also. If you can, check to see where the cables will exit the fuse running them strait, then crossed. Crossed usually gets them closest to the cutouts in the fuse. If you cross them, you should go with the 4" offset arm. SWB and Airwild makes good ones. On that plane you may also want two 5955's for the rudder. Thats what I'll be using on my 34% CA 300L. If you use two, you will need another double arm, 3" strait, 4 more ball links, and a package of the small titanium rods. Or you could go with the two servo, servo tray by SWB.

ICE_MAN

Thanks Steve,

I'll switch it to the 4" offset arm. The cable connectors come with the ti-rods, and Thats a huge pack of ball-lins there so I should be set.. Thanks!

KatManDEW

My Feedback: (6)

Crossed or straight, I could not achieve less than a couple inches of slack in the "slack" cable using a 4 inch, 1/4 inch offset Air Wild arm. [link=http://www.precisionaerobatics.com/accessory.aspx?gid=40]The carbon arm from Precision Aerobatics[/link], should work similar to my home made arm, at eliminating the slack.