Pull-Pull Set-up
12-04-2005 | 01:43 PM
#26
My Feedback: (41)
RE: Pull-Pull Set-up
I knew someone was going to notice that. 
That Nelson nut was too long to get the throws I wanted on the elevators (50+ degrees). So I just used the Dubro nut/cone and cut it down. I didn't want the Nelson horn to turn on the bolt so I used the Nelson nut as a lock nut to make sure the horn stays put. Maybe not necessary but I cranked it on there pretty good and that horn will not turn for anything. It was just a last minute idea.
That Nelson nut was too long to get the throws I wanted on the elevators (50+ degrees). So I just used the Dubro nut/cone and cut it down. I didn't want the Nelson horn to turn on the bolt so I used the Nelson nut as a lock nut to make sure the horn stays put. Maybe not necessary but I cranked it on there pretty good and that horn will not turn for anything. It was just a last minute idea.
ORIGINAL: DENNIS C
Joeairport why do you have this nelson nut on your control horn i just gotta ask.
Joeairport why do you have this nelson nut on your control horn i just gotta ask.
12-04-2005 | 02:36 PM
#27
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From: Cabot,
AR
RE: Pull-Pull Set-up
I have 2 of the 35% RCBlimpPro tailwheels and I can indeed vouch that they are the best tailwheel I've ever seen. They aren't the ABSOLUTE lightest (a very close second), but then I've broken 4 of the lightest ones (you know which ones I'm talking about). The RCBlimpPro is indeed bullet-proof and I love it.
Anyway, try running that formula I gave you when using the crossed cables... setup a test rig if you want. You'll have no slop. Bless Pythagreas (sp?).
Anyway, try running that formula I gave you when using the crossed cables... setup a test rig if you want. You'll have no slop. Bless Pythagreas (sp?).
12-04-2005 | 02:45 PM
#28
My Feedback: (41)
RE: Pull-Pull Set-up
I made a little diagram and checked that math, looks right on. I have only one question, can you get servo arms with any amount of offset? It seems that there are only a few options out there.
ORIGINAL: sillyness
I have 2 of the 35% RCBlimpPro tailwheels and I can indeed vouch that they are the best tailwheel I've ever seen. They aren't the ABSOLUTE lightest (a very close second), but then I've broken 4 of the lightest ones (you know which ones I'm talking about). The RCBlimpPro is indeed bullet-proof and I love it.
Anyway, try running that formula I gave you when using the crossed cables... setup a test rig if you want. You'll have no slop. Bless Pythagreas (sp?).
I have 2 of the 35% RCBlimpPro tailwheels and I can indeed vouch that they are the best tailwheel I've ever seen. They aren't the ABSOLUTE lightest (a very close second), but then I've broken 4 of the lightest ones (you know which ones I'm talking about). The RCBlimpPro is indeed bullet-proof and I love it.
Anyway, try running that formula I gave you when using the crossed cables... setup a test rig if you want. You'll have no slop. Bless Pythagreas (sp?).
12-04-2005 | 02:57 PM
#29
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From: Cabot,
AR
RE: Pull-Pull Set-up
Nelson makes them in any offset you want. He also has them in stock in very small increments (like 1/16" or 1/8"... something like that).
SWB's arms also fit the bill... just make sure if you decide to order an offset arm from SWB that you ask Scott what the design distance from the servo hub to the rudder hingeline is. As long as you can mount your servo close to that dimension you should have a good setup. As a note, the actual offset of SWBs arm are less than the formula gives, but the formula only takes a one dimensional correction into account... the SWB are also slightly shorter, which can also prevent slack. They give you the added benefit of SLIGHT amount of additional torque delivered to the rudder. The setup he used can only be calculated on CAD... I can't figure out a precise way to do it since the cable tension will change slightly through the servo travel... he has a good compromise setup.
SWB's arms also fit the bill... just make sure if you decide to order an offset arm from SWB that you ask Scott what the design distance from the servo hub to the rudder hingeline is. As long as you can mount your servo close to that dimension you should have a good setup. As a note, the actual offset of SWBs arm are less than the formula gives, but the formula only takes a one dimensional correction into account... the SWB are also slightly shorter, which can also prevent slack. They give you the added benefit of SLIGHT amount of additional torque delivered to the rudder. The setup he used can only be calculated on CAD... I can't figure out a precise way to do it since the cable tension will change slightly through the servo travel... he has a good compromise setup.
12-04-2005 | 07:26 PM
#30
My Feedback: (41)
RE: Pull-Pull Set-up
Very cool, I learned quite a bit from your posts, thanks.
ORIGINAL: sillyness
Nelson makes them in any offset you want. He also has them in stock in very small increments (like 1/16" or 1/8"... something like that).
SWB's arms also fit the bill... just make sure if you decide to order an offset arm from SWB that you ask Scott what the design distance from the servo hub to the rudder hingeline is. As long as you can mount your servo close to that dimension you should have a good setup. As a note, the actual offset of SWBs arm are less than the formula gives, but the formula only takes a one dimensional correction into account... the SWB are also slightly shorter, which can also prevent slack. They give you the added benefit of SLIGHT amount of additional torque delivered to the rudder. The setup he used can only be calculated on CAD... I can't figure out a precise way to do it since the cable tension will change slightly through the servo travel... he has a good compromise setup.
Nelson makes them in any offset you want. He also has them in stock in very small increments (like 1/16" or 1/8"... something like that).
SWB's arms also fit the bill... just make sure if you decide to order an offset arm from SWB that you ask Scott what the design distance from the servo hub to the rudder hingeline is. As long as you can mount your servo close to that dimension you should have a good setup. As a note, the actual offset of SWBs arm are less than the formula gives, but the formula only takes a one dimensional correction into account... the SWB are also slightly shorter, which can also prevent slack. They give you the added benefit of SLIGHT amount of additional torque delivered to the rudder. The setup he used can only be calculated on CAD... I can't figure out a precise way to do it since the cable tension will change slightly through the servo travel... he has a good compromise setup.
12-04-2005 | 07:57 PM
#31
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Pull-Pull Set-up
Shawn,
Thanks for the info. I think I know where you fly if you go out of Morgan Hill. Getting together would be fun.
Pat
JoeAirPort,
If you ever get around to dumping the Dubro horns, going with the RCL70 type ball links from Nelson, JR, and whoever else is making them now eliminates the twisting problem that forced you to use the nutty nuts. I have to agree that the Dubro horns make for a big assist in lining up with the rudder hinge line, though.
Thanks for the info. I think I know where you fly if you go out of Morgan Hill. Getting together would be fun.
Pat
JoeAirPort,
If you ever get around to dumping the Dubro horns, going with the RCL70 type ball links from Nelson, JR, and whoever else is making them now eliminates the twisting problem that forced you to use the nutty nuts. I have to agree that the Dubro horns make for a big assist in lining up with the rudder hinge line, though.
12-04-2005 | 08:49 PM
#32
My Feedback: (41)
RE: Pull-Pull Set-up
They are the Nelson RCL70's. The nutty nuts were added just to make sure the Nelsons don't turn on the bolt. I've had problems with the Dubro horns turning on the bolt. They were the 91 and under horns but still, I'd prefer they don't turn. This was insurance, it may look goofy but it works.
ORIGINAL: Silversurfer
JoeAirPort,
If you ever get around to dumping the Dubro horns, going with the RCL70 type ball links from Nelson, JR, and whoever else is making them now eliminates the twisting problem that forced you to use the nutty nuts. I have to agree that the Dubro horns make for a big assist in lining up with the rudder hinge line, though.
JoeAirPort,
If you ever get around to dumping the Dubro horns, going with the RCL70 type ball links from Nelson, JR, and whoever else is making them now eliminates the twisting problem that forced you to use the nutty nuts. I have to agree that the Dubro horns make for a big assist in lining up with the rudder hinge line, though.
