Hey guys,

I need help purchasing a full Pull-Pull set-up for my EA 34% Extra.. The servo will be 1 5955tg, If that makes any difference. I need EVERYTHING I don't know the first thing about them

Here is a link to the pull pull master's web site. He has everything you need and has some technical info on different pull pull setups. His products are top notch. I just got a 3 inch double locking servo arm from him, very nice and fits the spline like a glove (a very tight glove).

http://www.swbmfg.com/

Call Aero-works at 303-366-4205. Great Pull-Pull set up.

Ice here is a system im going to be using on my 34%'r i was going to use 2 8611's for my rudder but i discovered this idea from another site.

With this system i can mount one 8611 in the tail of the plane and still not have balancing issue's it will be hard linked to the rudder. see the pic.

Im having this gentlemen making me this plate also. since he has done a few with success.

Go with the SWB. Bulletproof whichever one you purchase.

Pat

SWB makes nice stuff, but all you may need is a simple servo arm with "X" offset, or maybe straight. So, the first thing you need to know... will you be crossing the cable or will they eb a straight shot. You'll need to look at you model carefully to decide which you want. Personally, I've always crossed them since no model I've ever had has lent itself to straight cables unless I was to do a lot of cutting of formers in the aft fuselage. Let us know and we can be of more help.

There are tons of ways to do this. The easiest system is to make sure that the center of pivot at the control horns are on the rudder hinge line. That will allow you to have a servo arm with zero offset. The second thing is that if you use a 4" servo arm then make sure your rudder control horn has the same span. In the pics I use the SWB 4" servo arm and at the rudder is a horn system that I developed and may make a production item.


Shawn Berkheimer

R/C Blimp Productions.com

Shawn,

If that's your tailwheel, I think I may want one. The W/H Sukhoi should be produced with a horn arrangement like yours. It absolutley accepts a ball link connection a lot better.

Pat

OK... if you don't cross your cables, then do what RCBlimpPro says... straight servo arm with width equal to width at control horn, control horn swept forward so it's directly over the hinge-line.

However, if you cross your cables, your servo arm will need some offset toward the hinge-line. Here's how you figure out how much offset:

Assume:
Control horn is set over the hine line (always important).
X = Total control horn width
Y = Distance from rudder servo hub to the rudder hinge line

Offeset = Sqareroot[X Squared + Y Squared] - Y
Servo arm width = X

Find a servo arm of these dimensions and install it with the offset ("sweep") toward the back of the plane. Whala, no slack.

If you can't find a horn of the exact dimension you figured, then get one with slightly less offset... too much and your cables will tighten at full deflection.

SWB can set you up, but they don't really know exactly how much offset their arms have... they use a combination of offset and a shorter arm to accomplish the same end goal. He has arms designed for certain control horn widths and certain distances from fuse to rudder. He can tell you exactly where to cut the cable exits so you will have no guesswork... personally that's the hardest part.

Nelson hobby can make you any servo arm offset you want, you just have to ask, but can't help you much past that point. Both companies have been very good to me.

Good luck!

You guys are going to get the kid confused.......whats wrong with the direct link set up. i think it might be better then a p-p and easier to set up

I use the Rcblimpro type setup. But, I make it as inexpensive and bulletproof as possible.
Dubro giant scale aluminum rudder horns - they are adjustable so you can put the pivot right over the hinge line.
Airwild aluminum servo arm - 3 inch eye to eye.
Make sure the width of the attachment points on the rudder horn are the same as the servo arm - then your cables will be parallel. For your plane, the cable holes have already been cut in the fuselage. But, if you didn't know where to exit the cables, all you have to do is measure the width of your servo arm. If the servo arm is 3 inches wide, the cable will exit exactly where the fuselage is 3 inches wide.
For cable, use nylon coated stainless steel fishing leader (Berkely is what I use), about 80 lb test. Buy the metal crimps of the correct size while you're at the fishing store. Loop the cable through the crimp for a better grip and no slip. Squeeze down in the center of the crimp so the ends of the crimp won't fray the cable.

Works great with parallel cables. Not so with crossed. My experience is that I've had to cross the cables in the 6 planes I've used pull-pull on. Not fond of cutting formers to prevent the cables from rubbing on them.

Let me know what you guys think of this:

SWB pull-pull Wire tensioners. They have the little plastistic pieces that you loop your wire around then Crimp... There's a 1-1/2" Titanium turnbuckle connecting that piece with a Ball link which the connects to your rudder.. A local guy has one set-up like this, I didn't get a chance to see completely what was going on.

It seems like he had something like this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDCU2&P=7 Coming out of the rudder and he replaced the Ball link on the SWB unit with that Clevis.. But this doesn't go all the way through the rudder..[&:]

The SWB tensioners work beautifully, and make cable adjustments super easy. I use them on both ends of the cable along with the included ball links. Free and easy motion using the ball links and can't come off. Personally I'm not too keen on clevises where pins can break or retainers can fall off. They also usually also have a looser fit in horn holes. I like 'em tight

Pat

I see what your saying.... Hmm

What rudder control horn and matching servo arm would you recomend? I plan on using those SWB units on both ends as well.

I used those little nylon tensioners on a CAP232 120. They are very cool, one turn buckle is reverse threaded. On my latest plane I didn't use them, I just used what that Dubro HD pull pull kit included and bought two 4-40 ball links for the servo side of the cables. I used the Hitech 5955 with SWB 3 inch double locking arm.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEMF8&P=7


I agree that having the cables straight instead of crossed makes for some huge slots. In some cases the cables would have to pass right through the rear former. Crossing them tends to work out better on most planes. Also getting a pull pull setup perfect is very hard from my experience. The tension is rarely the same at all deflections regardless of what you do. But it's a nice goal.

PS: Had to come back to add this comment for grins. If you look at my last picture you can see the rear former in the slot. I actually cut half wat through the former with my dremmel and had to go back and repair it.

Ah Joe that silver bolt is exactly the thin I was looking for!

I think I'll have to cross the cable too... I'm not into cutting formers..

hey DENNIS, where did you get that set up in your picture? I want one for my plane!! it looks really strong!!
please let me know, thanks

I think you mean me ??

Joeairport why do you have this nelson nut on your control horn i just gotta ask.

yes oops! i changed it to DENNIS, LOL do you have a drawing or something so i can get one made? How much did the guy charge you? just curious, it would work very well for my plane!

Im still waiting on a price from the guy. ill keep you posted

well i want one! ask your friend to make 2 of them!

No problem you know this plate is made for this particular plane right.

Pat, yes that is the relitivly new Titanium series of tailwheels. The 40% version shown on my airplane wheighs a mere 1.75 oz and is bulletproof. We produce 4 sizes for anything .60 powered up to a 45# airplane. The control horns were made specially for this airplane and I am pretty sure they will make it to production. Right now I am tweaking the design so they will work for all control surfaces. I keep forgetting to tell you that we are not that far apart, one of these day we need to get together and do some flying.



Shawn Berkheimer

R/C Blimp Productions.com