Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
06-05-2008, 12:59 PM
#6101
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
OK - kind of weird request:
I am looking for parts for a Yak 88 to help a friend rebuild his damaged plane.
Especially intersted in fuselage center/wing section (OK if nose or tail areas are busted) and both wings.
If any of you has lost a plane and/or is stuck with some salvaged parts, I'd be glad to buy them.
Just PM me.
Thanks.
06-05-2008, 03:35 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Signing off to go get married
! Be back in the shop Wednesday. Please pass this info along if anyone posts that they can't reach us.
Thanks again guys.
Chris Hinson
Extreme Flight RC
! Be back in the shop Wednesday. Please pass this info along if anyone posts that they can't reach us.Thanks again guys.
Chris Hinson
Extreme Flight RC
06-05-2008, 04:06 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I hope your goes as well as ours has we are going on 28 years . Good luck to the both of you and may life bless you . GOOD things for good people .
06-07-2008, 11:45 AM
#6107
RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I'm officially a member of the WOW club now!!!.....What number am I??? We need to get Bad Brad to print WOW #'s to put on our planes...LOL....Since I've already built two of these for a buddy of mine my own is going together VERY fast!!!....I'm missing a couple of small items that I'm sure Chris will take care of when he gets back from his honeymoon....My Yak will be equipped with a DL 50 and I'm thinking about a smoke system....I'm more into aerobatics than 3D....
Without going through all 6000 posts....Which header are you guys using???....I remember that it had a 1" or 25mm drop and flex was not prefered but thats about it....And where do you purchase one????....I'm going to mate the header up with a Chip Hyde canister...
I've got a couple of mods to hopefully make our planes last a little longer in the cosmetics department....I have a fix for the canopy chipping at the rear and a way to mount the louvers so that they will survive vibration better....I'll post pics later....
Kevin
Without going through all 6000 posts....Which header are you guys using???....I remember that it had a 1" or 25mm drop and flex was not prefered but thats about it....And where do you purchase one????....I'm going to mate the header up with a Chip Hyde canister...
I've got a couple of mods to hopefully make our planes last a little longer in the cosmetics department....I have a fix for the canopy chipping at the rear and a way to mount the louvers so that they will survive vibration better....I'll post pics later....
Kevin
06-07-2008, 11:51 AM
#6108
RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Kevin Greene
I've got a couple of mods to hopefully make our planes last a little longer in the cosmetics department....I have a fix for the canopy chipping at the rear and a way to mount the louvers so that they will survive vibration better....I'll post pics later....
Kevin
I've got a couple of mods to hopefully make our planes last a little longer in the cosmetics department....I have a fix for the canopy chipping at the rear and a way to mount the louvers so that they will survive vibration better....I'll post pics later....
Kevin
looking forward to the mods!
I left my louvers off for that reason.
06-07-2008, 09:04 PM
#6109
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Congratulations Chris!
Well, I had an electrical failure too, I think my A123 dropped off the voltage cliff, on my 7th flight of the day I took off and about 150 feet up everything went dead, the engine quit and I had zero control. So I'm thinking the RX voltage dropped and triggered the Kill switch to prevent a fly-away. Not a good feeling,
it went into marsh dirt at about 60 degrees and just stuck with the tail still visible above the 5' tall grass. The entire engine box back to former 1 is gone and some stringers going back from there also broke. I had the batteries mounted to the pipe tunnel just behind the wing tube, the impact inertia splintered the tunnel wood where they were mounted. I have a new fuse, cowl and rudder on the way and will take measurements from the new one to rebuild the old fuse, I PMed Yarom too in case he is interested.
QUESTION: I am running a JR 9303 2.4 TX with the JR DSM2 R921 Dual Link RX, this receiver has two "in" battery ports. I am also using two A123 packs @ 6.6v and 2300mA, one pack for the RX system and one through a ignition reg to the ignition. Both systems are independent from each other except for the SmartFly Optical Kill Safe.
I'm thinking I could add some redundancy by also running power from the ignition battery to the second "in" port on the RX in addition to the dedicated RX battery. This raises some questions though:
1) Will this introduce interference from the Ignition module back to the RX system and introduce other problems?
2) Will splitting the "out" from the ignition battery affect the voltage too much going into the Ignition and cause problems getting a spark?
3) Can the JR DSM2 R921 Dual Link RX handle 6.6v from each battery, or whatever voltage this combonation would add up to?
Included some before and after shots.
Maybe I should seriously think about changing my signature.
Well, I had an electrical failure too, I think my A123 dropped off the voltage cliff, on my 7th flight of the day I took off and about 150 feet up everything went dead, the engine quit and I had zero control. So I'm thinking the RX voltage dropped and triggered the Kill switch to prevent a fly-away. Not a good feeling,
it went into marsh dirt at about 60 degrees and just stuck with the tail still visible above the 5' tall grass. The entire engine box back to former 1 is gone and some stringers going back from there also broke. I had the batteries mounted to the pipe tunnel just behind the wing tube, the impact inertia splintered the tunnel wood where they were mounted. I have a new fuse, cowl and rudder on the way and will take measurements from the new one to rebuild the old fuse, I PMed Yarom too in case he is interested.QUESTION: I am running a JR 9303 2.4 TX with the JR DSM2 R921 Dual Link RX, this receiver has two "in" battery ports. I am also using two A123 packs @ 6.6v and 2300mA, one pack for the RX system and one through a ignition reg to the ignition. Both systems are independent from each other except for the SmartFly Optical Kill Safe.
I'm thinking I could add some redundancy by also running power from the ignition battery to the second "in" port on the RX in addition to the dedicated RX battery. This raises some questions though:
1) Will this introduce interference from the Ignition module back to the RX system and introduce other problems?
2) Will splitting the "out" from the ignition battery affect the voltage too much going into the Ignition and cause problems getting a spark?
3) Can the JR DSM2 R921 Dual Link RX handle 6.6v from each battery, or whatever voltage this combonation would add up to?
Included some before and after shots.
Maybe I should seriously think about changing my signature.
06-07-2008, 10:42 PM
#6110
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Dude Sorry I had the EF Extra on futaba FASST and basically the same thing happened, sux to watch it go in. With 2.4 as you said if you cant supply enough volts to the reciever it will turn off - turn back on - and try to link up with the transmitter. I doubt it was your fail safe most likely you undervolted your reciever. The best way to prevent this with the set up you have is to run your batteries to a smart fly power expander that ensures clean volts to the reciever. With this set up no amount of servo voltage load can compromise your reciever voltage, this is extremely important with 2.4 stuff. With that reciever the undervolt limit is 3.7 V below that the reciever will cycle and try to link up again, I spoke with JR and for safety they like to say 4.0v as the limit. Again b/c volts are so cruvial with 2.4 consider upgrading your wires to deans connectors, the voltage flow through a regular servo wire can easily maxed out with multiple high torque servos.
As far as your questions
1. Bad Idea- Always keep reciever and ign seperate, always, Add another A123 to your reciever power set up so 2 all together plugged into a smartfly power expander, running deans connectors - You will need a deans compatiable switch as well, check out the wolveriene switch from fromeco
2. no most likely not unless charge is getting low
3. I think the max on that reciever is 6.0 volt and to my understanding with A123 eventhough its 6.6 volt nominal charge with a 1 amp load it is closer to 6.0 v which is what the reciever needs. So no matter how many batteries you connect to the reciever as long as they are 6.0 volt output that is all the reciever will see.
>> Sorry for your loss man just build the power system up with thick wire, redundant reciever batts. and a power expander & it will never happen again.
As far as your questions
1. Bad Idea- Always keep reciever and ign seperate, always, Add another A123 to your reciever power set up so 2 all together plugged into a smartfly power expander, running deans connectors - You will need a deans compatiable switch as well, check out the wolveriene switch from fromeco
2. no most likely not unless charge is getting low
3. I think the max on that reciever is 6.0 volt and to my understanding with A123 eventhough its 6.6 volt nominal charge with a 1 amp load it is closer to 6.0 v which is what the reciever needs. So no matter how many batteries you connect to the reciever as long as they are 6.0 volt output that is all the reciever will see.
>> Sorry for your loss man just build the power system up with thick wire, redundant reciever batts. and a power expander & it will never happen again.
06-08-2008, 08:57 AM
#6111
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I use two A123 battery packs going into the Rx and I use the Spektrum 9100. A third and separate battery pack for the ignition.
At 2300mah, there is a possibility you might need to look elsewhere for the issue. If every flight consumed 200mah (which is about what I consume per flight), you would still have 900mah margen, assuming your battery was charged...
I also use a small battery indicator ($1.99) permanently connected to the Rx. It's visible from the canopy and I can see if voltage drops before I fly. Not scientific, but kind of the only way I can think of measuring this...
ORIGINAL: RoughLandin
Congratulations Chris!
Well, I had an electrical failure too, I think my A123 dropped off the voltage cliff, on my 7th flight of the day I took off and about 150 feet up everything went dead, the engine quit and I had zero control. So I'm thinking the RX voltage dropped and triggered the Kill switch to prevent a fly-away. Not a good feeling, it went into marsh dirt at about 60 degrees and just stuck with the tail still visible above the 5' tall grass. The entire engine box back to former 1 is gone and some stringers going back from there also broke. I had the batteries mounted to the pipe tunnel just behind the wing tube, the impact inertia splintered the tunnel wood where they were mounted. I have a new fuse, cowl and rudder on the way and will take measurements from the new one to rebuild the old fuse, I PMed Yarom too in case he is interested.
QUESTION: I am running a JR 9303 2.4 TX with the JR DSM2 R921 Dual Link RX, this receiver has two "in" battery ports. I am also using two A123 packs @ 6.6v and 2300mA, one pack for the RX system and one through a ignition reg to the ignition. Both systems are independent from each other except for the SmartFly Optical Kill Safe.
I'm thinking I could add some redundancy by also running power from the ignition battery to the second "in" port on the RX in addition to the dedicated RX battery. This raises some questions though:
1) Will this introduce interference from the Ignition module back to the RX system and introduce other problems?
2) Will splitting the "out" from the ignition battery affect the voltage too much going into the Ignition and cause problems getting a spark?
3) Can the JR DSM2 R921 Dual Link RX handle 6.6v from each battery, or whatever voltage this combonation would add up to?
Included some before and after shots.
Maybe I should seriously think about changing my signature.
Congratulations Chris!
Well, I had an electrical failure too, I think my A123 dropped off the voltage cliff, on my 7th flight of the day I took off and about 150 feet up everything went dead, the engine quit and I had zero control. So I'm thinking the RX voltage dropped and triggered the Kill switch to prevent a fly-away. Not a good feeling,
it went into marsh dirt at about 60 degrees and just stuck with the tail still visible above the 5' tall grass. The entire engine box back to former 1 is gone and some stringers going back from there also broke. I had the batteries mounted to the pipe tunnel just behind the wing tube, the impact inertia splintered the tunnel wood where they were mounted. I have a new fuse, cowl and rudder on the way and will take measurements from the new one to rebuild the old fuse, I PMed Yarom too in case he is interested.QUESTION: I am running a JR 9303 2.4 TX with the JR DSM2 R921 Dual Link RX, this receiver has two "in" battery ports. I am also using two A123 packs @ 6.6v and 2300mA, one pack for the RX system and one through a ignition reg to the ignition. Both systems are independent from each other except for the SmartFly Optical Kill Safe.
I'm thinking I could add some redundancy by also running power from the ignition battery to the second "in" port on the RX in addition to the dedicated RX battery. This raises some questions though:
1) Will this introduce interference from the Ignition module back to the RX system and introduce other problems?
2) Will splitting the "out" from the ignition battery affect the voltage too much going into the Ignition and cause problems getting a spark?
3) Can the JR DSM2 R921 Dual Link RX handle 6.6v from each battery, or whatever voltage this combonation would add up to?
Included some before and after shots.
Maybe I should seriously think about changing my signature.
06-09-2008, 12:05 AM
#6112
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
This bird is getting better and better!! Now after 35 flights it feels so good, harriers, elevators, rolling harriers, KE loops.. just name it and with this bird you can do it!
WOW
WOW
06-09-2008, 05:55 AM
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Chris, many congratulations on getting hitched..!!
How about a wedding present to us guys, i.e: a 100cc Extra?? What are the chances? I already have the 88 Yak, 88.5 extra with a 110 Yak in progress, just need the extra to complete my collection...lol
How about a wedding present to us guys, i.e: a 100cc Extra?? What are the chances? I already have the 88 Yak, 88.5 extra with a 110 Yak in progress, just need the extra to complete my collection...lol
06-10-2008, 02:30 AM
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
RoughLandin
What was the charge state of the receiver battery after the crash?
What was the resting voltage, and how much capacity was left in the battery? (or how many mAh were you able to put back in the pack afterwards?)
Magne
What was the charge state of the receiver battery after the crash?
What was the resting voltage, and how much capacity was left in the battery? (or how many mAh were you able to put back in the pack afterwards?)
Magne
06-10-2008, 05:57 PM
#6115
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: wavy777
Chris, many congratulations on getting hitched..!!
How about a wedding present to us guys, i.e: a 100cc Extra?? What are the chances? I already have the 88 Yak, 88.5 extra with a 110 Yak in progress, just need the extra to complete my collection...lol
Chris, many congratulations on getting hitched..!!
How about a wedding present to us guys, i.e: a 100cc Extra?? What are the chances? I already have the 88 Yak, 88.5 extra with a 110 Yak in progress, just need the extra to complete my collection...lol
06-11-2008, 01:29 AM
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: diamondave
im sure they are coming, rumor has it there may be a 85cc version as well, dont tell no one
ORIGINAL: wavy777
Chris, many congratulations on getting hitched..!!
How about a wedding present to us guys, i.e: a 100cc Extra?? What are the chances? I already have the 88 Yak, 88.5 extra with a 110 Yak in progress, just need the extra to complete my collection...lol
Chris, many congratulations on getting hitched..!!
How about a wedding present to us guys, i.e: a 100cc Extra?? What are the chances? I already have the 88 Yak, 88.5 extra with a 110 Yak in progress, just need the extra to complete my collection...lol
06-11-2008, 12:16 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Joe,
It seems I can not contact you , I sent a PM but it does not show in Sent Folder.... I have no idea why, I am logged on ..
Anyway, I am Andrzej ,I come to sod farm sometimes, I was watching you flying WH Edge couple of years ago.
I just bought EF Yak 88.....
I have read few pages on it but it's almost impossible to read it all ....
I hope you and others will not mind if I ask question that was already asked.
I was told that EF Yak 54 88 has an stab incidence problem, in other words that it needs lots of up trim to keep the level flight and that makes coupling worse too ....
Any comments? Sorry again for asking what was probably brought up here but 400+ pages ...... no way.
Thanks.
Andrzej
It seems I can not contact you , I sent a PM but it does not show in Sent Folder.... I have no idea why, I am logged on ..
Anyway, I am Andrzej ,I come to sod farm sometimes, I was watching you flying WH Edge couple of years ago.
I just bought EF Yak 88.....
I have read few pages on it but it's almost impossible to read it all ....
I hope you and others will not mind if I ask question that was already asked.
I was told that EF Yak 54 88 has an stab incidence problem, in other words that it needs lots of up trim to keep the level flight and that makes coupling worse too ....
Any comments? Sorry again for asking what was probably brought up here but 400+ pages ...... no way.
Thanks.
Andrzej
06-11-2008, 06:10 PM
#6118
RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
As promised here is the mod to stiffen up the rear of the turtle deck that is prone to chipping....
As you can see that my canopy doesn't have nearly as much overlap as those I've seen in the past and much smaller than the two that I have worked on...Maybe mine is a newer run???
As you can see that my canopy doesn't have nearly as much overlap as those I've seen in the past and much smaller than the two that I have worked on...Maybe mine is a newer run???
06-11-2008, 06:19 PM
#6122
RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Now, using medium CA, run a bead on the CA hinge material and press the material in place....Repeat for the other side...Use kicker LIGHTLY to set the CA...
After this has set, use thin CA sparingly on the outside of the hinge material to make the assembly rock hard...
You are now done and have a bullet proof canopy!!!....At least on the rear edge of it anyway...
Kevin
After this has set, use thin CA sparingly on the outside of the hinge material to make the assembly rock hard...
You are now done and have a bullet proof canopy!!!....At least on the rear edge of it anyway...
Kevin
06-11-2008, 08:47 PM
#6124
RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Thanks for the kind words, Frank...
The next mod that I have is for the cowl louvers.....This mod hasn't been proven yet in the field but similar entities have proven well with other palnes that I have owned...
In the instructions you are told to glue the cowl louvers in place with epoxy....I think that there is a better method to glue in the louver plate that will not only hold better but provide some vibration resistance....
First, purchase a tube of Goop....There are several types of Goop. (Household, Automotive, Plumbers, Shoe, etc...) I have been told that it is actually all the same stuff!!!! The reasoning for the differing packages is to increase sales as plain ole Shoe Goop wasn't selling very well...
The next mod that I have is for the cowl louvers.....This mod hasn't been proven yet in the field but similar entities have proven well with other palnes that I have owned...
In the instructions you are told to glue the cowl louvers in place with epoxy....I think that there is a better method to glue in the louver plate that will not only hold better but provide some vibration resistance....
First, purchase a tube of Goop....There are several types of Goop. (Household, Automotive, Plumbers, Shoe, etc...) I have been told that it is actually all the same stuff!!!! The reasoning for the differing packages is to increase sales as plain ole Shoe Goop wasn't selling very well...
06-11-2008, 09:00 PM
#6125
RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Good grief that pic is huge!!!....That's never happened to me before....[:@]
Anyway.......Next, cut out the louver plate as I have done leaving the bottom in place and not cutting it off. This will add some strength to the perimeter of the louver plate. Round off ALL of your cuts to prevent stress cracks...Only cut out the center of the louver plate enough to allow the prop hub to clear. This will give moer strength to the center of the louver plate...
Sand the edge of the louver plate and the inside of the cowl with 120 grit paper and clean the surfaces with denatured alcohol.
Next apply a VERY generous bead of Goop around the perimeter of the louver plate....I ran a 1/4" bead all of the way around...
Place the louver in place and gently evenly press to spead the adhesive....The trick is to press hard enough but not so hard as to make the louver plate mate directly on the cowl lip....By doing this you have created a rubber shock absorber as a cusion between the louver plate and the cowl...
When done it should look like this...
Anyway.......Next, cut out the louver plate as I have done leaving the bottom in place and not cutting it off. This will add some strength to the perimeter of the louver plate. Round off ALL of your cuts to prevent stress cracks...Only cut out the center of the louver plate enough to allow the prop hub to clear. This will give moer strength to the center of the louver plate...
Sand the edge of the louver plate and the inside of the cowl with 120 grit paper and clean the surfaces with denatured alcohol.
Next apply a VERY generous bead of Goop around the perimeter of the louver plate....I ran a 1/4" bead all of the way around...
Place the louver in place and gently evenly press to spead the adhesive....The trick is to press hard enough but not so hard as to make the louver plate mate directly on the cowl lip....By doing this you have created a rubber shock absorber as a cusion between the louver plate and the cowl...
When done it should look like this...