Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
#1852
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Good guess but your wrong ! ( add.0000239 grams to the total weight of the airplane. )
lol
lol
ORIGINAL: rdb127
Add em back in (.0000238 grams from the total weight of the airplane. )
ORIGINAL: flyingcrazy
Heres what I did for my servo wires to keep them fron chafing.
Heres what I did for my servo wires to keep them fron chafing.
#1855
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: MustangAce
If the cowling was not cut out, would NOT having the louvers installed cause overheating??? DA-50 stock muffler???
If the cowling was not cut out, would NOT having the louvers installed cause overheating??? DA-50 stock muffler???
To test this is simple. Fly the plane with no baffle and nothing else done to the cowl, land and check the temp of the motor, mine sits around 160-175. If your motor runs hot then you will want to install the baffle. Install the baffle and don't open the bottom of the cowl, land it and check the temp, if its not running hot then you are set and have no reason to butcher the cowl up. Remember you can always trim later, but you can't put back what you already took off.
#1857
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
Mine too JUST touched... but instead of cutting a hole, I epoxied a small square of neprene foam under the plugcap onto the inside of the cowl...
Mine too JUST touched... but instead of cutting a hole, I epoxied a small square of neprene foam under the plugcap onto the inside of the cowl...
#1858
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Mokken
It all depends. If you left the baffle out you will get plenty of air into the cowl that can exit out through the oil pan. The problem is this. With that big 12" opening in the front of the cowl, you don't get air "forced" directly over the motor with no baffling, instead is just enters and swirls around. The whole point in the baffle is to force air directly over the fins on the motor then out the bottom of the cowl and in my case or those who have a pipe installed; air is also forced out the tunnel area as well. By having the air forced directly over the fins and out the bottom of the cowl there is no need whatsoever to open up the cowl at all.
To test this is simple. Fly the plane with no baffle and nothing else done to the cowl, land and check the temp of the motor, mine sits around 160-175. If your motor runs hot then you will want to install the baffle. Install the baffle and don't open the bottom of the cowl, land it and check the temp, if its not running hot then you are set and have no reason to butcher the cowl up. Remember you can always trim later, but you can't put back what you already took off.
ORIGINAL: MustangAce
If the cowling was not cut out, would NOT having the louvers installed cause overheating??? DA-50 stock muffler???
If the cowling was not cut out, would NOT having the louvers installed cause overheating??? DA-50 stock muffler???
To test this is simple. Fly the plane with no baffle and nothing else done to the cowl, land and check the temp of the motor, mine sits around 160-175. If your motor runs hot then you will want to install the baffle. Install the baffle and don't open the bottom of the cowl, land it and check the temp, if its not running hot then you are set and have no reason to butcher the cowl up. Remember you can always trim later, but you can't put back what you already took off.
Thanks. I will do the maiden without cutting and check the temp afterwards.
#1859
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Some air exit is required... in this case if you don't use the baffle a good deal of air is coming in...
The rear of the oil pan only represents a very small amount of exit... opening the bottom of the oil pant nearly triple air exit... I would at LEAST open it up... leaving abotu 1/8" of the fat part still intact for strength...
Another option is to open the tunnel up and open a small square at the back of the tunnel. Flat black painting the inside of the tunnel at the exit would make it nearly invisible in the air
The rear of the oil pan only represents a very small amount of exit... opening the bottom of the oil pant nearly triple air exit... I would at LEAST open it up... leaving abotu 1/8" of the fat part still intact for strength...
Another option is to open the tunnel up and open a small square at the back of the tunnel. Flat black painting the inside of the tunnel at the exit would make it nearly invisible in the air
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: flyingcrazy
Heres what I did for my servo wires to keep them fron chafing.
Heres what I did for my servo wires to keep them fron chafing.
I on the other hand opted for the lazy approach! LOL!
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Got the maiden flight in today along with two more. The B60 w/stock muffler ran totally different on the plane compared to the stand. I had to lean top over 1/2 turn and leaned the bottom 1/4 turn. The engine doesn't sputter now but it does lose power when climbing. Any ideas? I don't have any help at my field with a gasser so help would be appreciated. Keep in mind that this was only the 3rd tank of gas in the thing. Was taching at 6800 with Xoar 23 x 8 and running lawn boy 40:1. Engine really started easy. The plane flies like it's on rails. Waterfalls were awesome along with walls and knife edge took little rudder. Not comfortable enough with engine yet for low hovers and harriers. I did try some hovers but engine really sagged when I tried to punch out. Flies level upright and when turned inverted it will almost do a loop without any inputs. I gues that means I'm a little heavy in tail. Installing my BB fiberglass spinner tonight. Took vacation day for tomorrow!!
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: cwhite
Got the maiden flight in today along with two more. The B60 w/stock muffler ran totally different on the plane compared to the stand. I had to lean top over 1/2 turn and leaned the bottom 1/4 turn. The engine doesn't sputter now but it does lose power when climbing. Any ideas? I don't have any help at my field with a gasser so help would be appreciated. Keep in mind that this was only the 3rd tank of gas in the thing. Was taching at 6800 with Xoar 23 x 8 and running lawn boy 40:1. Engine really started easy. The plane flies like it's on rails. Waterfalls were awesome along with walls and knife edge took little rudder. Not comfortable enough with engine yet for low hovers and harriers. I did try some hovers but engine really sagged when I tried to punch out. Flies level upright and when turned inverted it will almost do a loop without any inputs. I gues that means I'm a little heavy in tail. Installing my BB fiberglass spinner tonight. Took vacation day for tomorrow!!
Got the maiden flight in today along with two more. The B60 w/stock muffler ran totally different on the plane compared to the stand. I had to lean top over 1/2 turn and leaned the bottom 1/4 turn. The engine doesn't sputter now but it does lose power when climbing. Any ideas? I don't have any help at my field with a gasser so help would be appreciated. Keep in mind that this was only the 3rd tank of gas in the thing. Was taching at 6800 with Xoar 23 x 8 and running lawn boy 40:1. Engine really started easy. The plane flies like it's on rails. Waterfalls were awesome along with walls and knife edge took little rudder. Not comfortable enough with engine yet for low hovers and harriers. I did try some hovers but engine really sagged when I tried to punch out. Flies level upright and when turned inverted it will almost do a loop without any inputs. I gues that means I'm a little heavy in tail. Installing my BB fiberglass spinner tonight. Took vacation day for tomorrow!!
#1868
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
okay,i know the questions have been answered before, but this train keeps moving so fast its hard to find the stuff later, i got my pen and paper handy this time for notes
servo arms: the 4" offset for the rudder, i can get that through ef when i get the plane i guess, but whats the offset? 1/4", the arms for ele and ail, i have 2- 1&1/4 arms left over from something else, will they work for something? what other ones would i need? the stock digital hiteck arms wont be long enough?
xtensions: i use 2- 6" for the ail in the reciever for pluging in and out, so what others may i need?
gastank: it comes with one right? a 20oz? 16? i will be using a 60cc
wheels: it does not come with any? i have 3&1/2 ones, will they work or do i need 4'?
tailwheel: it comes with a cf one right?
spinner: dave, you posted a pic a while back, 4.5? ef says 4, so either will work? and look good?
thanks in advance and i will write things down...i am getting excited about spending some of my hard earned money soon
btw, i will get the manual now so that may answer some stuff?
servo arms: the 4" offset for the rudder, i can get that through ef when i get the plane i guess, but whats the offset? 1/4", the arms for ele and ail, i have 2- 1&1/4 arms left over from something else, will they work for something? what other ones would i need? the stock digital hiteck arms wont be long enough?
xtensions: i use 2- 6" for the ail in the reciever for pluging in and out, so what others may i need?
gastank: it comes with one right? a 20oz? 16? i will be using a 60cc
wheels: it does not come with any? i have 3&1/2 ones, will they work or do i need 4'?
tailwheel: it comes with a cf one right?
spinner: dave, you posted a pic a while back, 4.5? ef says 4, so either will work? and look good?
thanks in advance and i will write things down...i am getting excited about spending some of my hard earned money soon
btw, i will get the manual now so that may answer some stuff?
#1869
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
CWHITE, Sounds like you might have leaned it out a little too much. Dont be afraid to run it a little rich for a while. And as mentioned above, make sure you have adequate cooling. Also, you are most likely too tail heavy if it wants to climb inverted.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
i see the discussion about the baffles, so far it seems its a matter of preference, some guys use it, others not, so my guess is there generally doesnt seem to be an overheatinig issue yet with anyone who hasnt run it
#1871
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
servo arms: the 4" offset for the rudder, i can get that through ef ==== yes
you can get by with 1 1/4 on the ailerons they are so large but 1.5" works great on the elevators
xtensions: i use 2- 6" for the ail in the reciever for pluging in and out, === yes that is what i am using
gastank: it comes with one right? a 20oz? ==== yes
wheels: it does not come with any? i have 3&1/2 ones, will they work or do i need 4'? ==use 4" wheels and you will need to buy those along with axles and wheel collars, the manual calls for 4" however i am sure someone used 3.5"
tailwheel: it comes with a cf one right? ===yes carbon fiber and a foam wheel
spinner: dave, you posted a pic a while back, 4.5? ef says 4, so either will work? and look good? ===i used a 4" u pick that deal
you can get by with 1 1/4 on the ailerons they are so large but 1.5" works great on the elevators
xtensions: i use 2- 6" for the ail in the reciever for pluging in and out, === yes that is what i am using
gastank: it comes with one right? a 20oz? ==== yes
wheels: it does not come with any? i have 3&1/2 ones, will they work or do i need 4'? ==use 4" wheels and you will need to buy those along with axles and wheel collars, the manual calls for 4" however i am sure someone used 3.5"
tailwheel: it comes with a cf one right? ===yes carbon fiber and a foam wheel
spinner: dave, you posted a pic a while back, 4.5? ef says 4, so either will work? and look good? ===i used a 4" u pick that deal
#1872
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: diamondave
okay,i know the questions have been answered before, but this train keeps moving so fast its hard to find the stuff later, i got my pen and paper handy this time for notes
servo arms: the 4" offset for the rudder, i can get that through ef when i get the plane i guess, but whats the offset? 1/4", the arms for ele and ail, i have 2- 1&1/4 arms left over from something else, will they work for something? what other ones would i need? the stock digital hiteck arms wont be long enough?
xtensions: i use 2- 6" for the ail in the reciever for pluging in and out, so what others may i need?
gastank: it comes with one right? a 20oz? 16? i will be using a 60cc
wheels: it does not come with any? i have 3&1/2 ones, will they work or do i need 4'?
tailwheel: it comes with a cf one right?
spinner: dave, you posted a pic a while back, 4.5? ef says 4, so either will work? and look good?
thanks in advance and i will write things down...i am getting excited about spending some of my hard earned money soon
btw, i will get the manual now so that may answer some stuff?
okay,i know the questions have been answered before, but this train keeps moving so fast its hard to find the stuff later, i got my pen and paper handy this time for notes
servo arms: the 4" offset for the rudder, i can get that through ef when i get the plane i guess, but whats the offset? 1/4", the arms for ele and ail, i have 2- 1&1/4 arms left over from something else, will they work for something? what other ones would i need? the stock digital hiteck arms wont be long enough?
xtensions: i use 2- 6" for the ail in the reciever for pluging in and out, so what others may i need?
gastank: it comes with one right? a 20oz? 16? i will be using a 60cc
wheels: it does not come with any? i have 3&1/2 ones, will they work or do i need 4'?
tailwheel: it comes with a cf one right?
spinner: dave, you posted a pic a while back, 4.5? ef says 4, so either will work? and look good?
thanks in advance and i will write things down...i am getting excited about spending some of my hard earned money soon
btw, i will get the manual now so that may answer some stuff?
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I've been playing around with the motor mount lengths a little tonight. With the 2.5"s the prop is a little close to the cowl, and with the 3" the stock da muffler is real close to the louvers. Take a look at the side picture....What your guys opinion on the prop distance?
I wonder just how close the muffler can be without melting the louvers. Maybe I'll shim it out just a little more.
I could get the muffler pretty close if I can find something good to insulate the louvers. Oh yeah, those extra holes in the cowl.......they aint mistakes, they are weight savings.
Need to scratch my head a little bit more before I decide. All that is left is to glue the louvers on, and get the motor mounted for keeps. I can't wait to see this baby in the air.
Mike
Edited because I was off an inch.
I wonder just how close the muffler can be without melting the louvers. Maybe I'll shim it out just a little more.
I could get the muffler pretty close if I can find something good to insulate the louvers. Oh yeah, those extra holes in the cowl.......they aint mistakes, they are weight savings.
Need to scratch my head a little bit more before I decide. All that is left is to glue the louvers on, and get the motor mounted for keeps. I can't wait to see this baby in the air.
Mike
Edited because I was off an inch.
#1874
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Whirlyspud
I've been playing around with the motor mount lengths a little tonight. With the 3.5"s the prop is a little close to the cowl, and with the 4" the stock da muffler is real close to the louvers. Take a look at the side picture....What your guys opinion on the prop distance?
I wonder just how close the muffler can be without melting the louvers. Maybe I'll shim it out just a little more.
I could get the muffler pretty close if I can find something good to insulate the louvers. Oh yeah, those extra holes in the cowl.......they aint mistakes, they are weight savings.
Need to scratch my head a little bit more before I decide. All that is left is to glue the louvers on, and get the motor mounted for keeps. I can't wait to see this baby in the air.
Mike
I've been playing around with the motor mount lengths a little tonight. With the 3.5"s the prop is a little close to the cowl, and with the 4" the stock da muffler is real close to the louvers. Take a look at the side picture....What your guys opinion on the prop distance?
I wonder just how close the muffler can be without melting the louvers. Maybe I'll shim it out just a little more.
I could get the muffler pretty close if I can find something good to insulate the louvers. Oh yeah, those extra holes in the cowl.......they aint mistakes, they are weight savings.
Need to scratch my head a little bit more before I decide. All that is left is to glue the louvers on, and get the motor mounted for keeps. I can't wait to see this baby in the air.
Mike