matfree

What is everyones tach for idle speed on the DL-100?? And top end?

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

Hey, Nice lookin' Yak! I moved too fast and opened the bottom of my cowl up before considering something like you have. Very nice.

2robinhood

Got any rpm numbers with the Mejzlik 27 X 10 ?

2robinhood

With the JFX 27 X 10 I idle @ 1400 and topped out at 6350.
I broke the tip of the prop on the maiden, so I purchased another.
The new prop ( same brand and size ) I am only getting 6050.
Is it possible to lose 300 rpm with a different prop even though they are the same brand and size?

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

I have a TBM 27 X 10 ... (Which is a JXF 27 X 10 with some paint and a TBM logo on it .. ) and I'll be interested to see where my numbers come in. 2robinhood, were you getting 6350 on that first 12 oz you ran before the maiden? I noticed the black Mejzlik too, and wondered what kind of numbers were coming from it.

2robinhood

In post 426 it was the first run.
At the end of 12 oz. I had 6250 rpm.

Maiden flight I tweaked a little and was at 6350 for the maiden.

Now with a different prop, but same brand and size I am only at 6050.

I have another new prop ( same brand and size also ) and I am going to run and see what it turns # wise.

matfree

The mejlzlik was pulling around 6300 at 6500ft. elevation. I am wondering what everyones settings are on the needle valves. My low end is less than half a turn out. Also seems like one cylinder runs really rich like its getting flooded or misfires when at idle and a little above. leaning it out has helped some. So at 1400rpm my plane wants to taxi?

fingers73

My Feedback: (2)

I have mine done and put about ten flights on it now. I went a lot different than all on this thread. First is power I used my 3w 75I with a 24x8 3w prop. Hitec 5955 servos every where but the throttle. It only has one on the rudder and each aileron, plenty of power for any flight style. 1 reciever and battery pack to keep weight down. The plane is awsome, does anything I ask. It will hover at just over half throttle, and do an imac sequence with little effort. the thing will land like a cotton ball, with about a 50 foot roll out.

I a'm hopeing that someone knows of carbon main gear for this airframe, Mine are starting to splay a little. Also the tail wheel is junk it flattened out on the first taxi. I put on a nice carbon one I had laying around and it works fine.

2robinhood

Yeh, both gear ends suck. ( main & tailwheel )
I talked to TNT gear about a made set.
He has in stock the gear for the 87" Yak, but has never made any for the 94".
I don't think he can get measurments from the factory since they are no more.
I was going to send him my gear to use as a pattern, but I straighten mine after the maiden and I furgured they will be ok.
UNTIL, last night I had my first deadstick with the Yak.
The DL-100 started to sputter, I quickly rolled for a approach and it shut down.
I stretched it in for a safe landing but I did bounce it and the right gear bent again.
There is no spring at all to the main gear, it seems to bend and stay bent.
Deadstick was not the fault of the DL-100.
Looking for what happened, the 42% products Opto kill switch was what happened.
One of the wires came unsoldered from the board.
It was hardley attached, there is a perfect shape of the wire in the pool of solder on the board, it just wasn't attached good.
I was good that it happened when it did and I was in a spot to get it down safe.
I am learning 3D and it would have sucked to have that happen in a hover 50 foot off the ground.
Hey aaxiss , remember I need to hover high because of the size of my ball$.

2robinhood

What is your all up weight?
You have no issues with one servo per aileron and only one on the rudder?

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

I have the 42% Opto Kill switch too .. but I have decided not to use it because I also have an on board choke servo. It seemed redundant to me to have so many means of killing the engine. Having a rear carb engine, it was kinda hard coming up with a suitable manual choke, so I just added a Hitec HRD81 mini servo to work the choke. My bother also has the 42% Opto Kill Switch. His DL50 started running rough, then died on him ... and he was baffled about the cause. Better give him a call ... and a potential clue.

fingers73

My Feedback: (2)

I have no problems at all with the single servo setup using hs 5955's, each servo has over 20 pounds of tourque. Look at the new hanger 9 Sukhoi it was designed that way.

My all up weight is 22pounds six ounces.

I also have no choke servo, I hate them. I will try to get some build picks on here for people to check out.

2robinhood

This is my sixth 42% Opto kill and this is the first I have had any problem.
This was a brand new unit, must have been built on a Monday.
I have no complaints with them, and I am just so thankful that it did it at the time that I got in it safe.

fingers73

My Feedback: (2)

First I have to point out that this the way I build my planes, it may not be the way everybody else does it and I don't care! In the pics you will see how I lightened the canapy floor, single servo's on rudder and aileron (not pictured). the red goldenrod is my choke linkage, all my gassere's are done this way. Battery location for proper cg with a light engine. I did lighten some of the motor box which you can't see.

I have had lots of big planes and I love the way this thing fly's!

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

I opened up my canopy floor as well. My original reason was to be able to see my tank and 2.4GHz and remote receiver/antenna lights. I'm still going to have to open the dash to see the tank.

aaxiss

anyone know anyone in the SoCal area that sells power wheelchairs and that can repair them?, I got hit by a car today from behind while crossing the parking lot of the local pharmacy. Im pretty much ok , left shoulder is messed up, dislocated my left knee and got blisters all over the back of my shoulders, back, buttocks and back of my legs from having to lay on the 130+ degree blacktop for 10 mins. *****holes that hit me drove off. My only way to get around is a bent up mess ( my Power wheelchair ). Not really expecting anythign just hoping I will get lucky. anyway I am glad my last flying day was a good one last weekend cause it will most likely be the last for some time.

I'll say up on this thread but most likely I will be selling off all my electronics to go towards repairing my wheelchair if it even can be fixed.

Night guys. the drugs are kicking in

2robinhood

Sorry to here what happened.
Glad you are only had minor damage.
I hope nothing some CA, fiberglass and light ply can't fix.
The blistering is a different story.
This seems to have taken the wind off the wings of this thread.
I am all the way in South Jersey, I wouldn't know a thing about SoCal area.

aaxiss

Spent the day at the local burn center yesterday having dead/ burned skin scraped from my back/buttocks 2nd ad 3rd degree burns over 50% of my backside, wheelchair is a total loss. Good news is I already contacted Medicare and they told me that since my wheelchair is 7 years old I can get a new one and I going to make some calls today and see if I can get a loaner while my new wheelchair is on order. Otherwise I am stuck in the house for the most part for 2-3 months till I get my new wheelchair.

I still wouldn't mind finding someone local that's in the wheelchair/Medical supply industry that could stop by and take a look at my chair. Be a few weeks till I can sit in a wheelchair for any amount of time till my backside heals anyway. Good thing I can't feel It, all the burns are below where where I'm paralyzed.



Keep the posts coming, I still have alot of work to do on my plane, you guys are giving me lots of ideas and help.

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

Here's my Yak, test running the RCGF 100cc .... just before ... it sheared the prop bolts

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

Back to the drawing board. Not sure how I'm going to handle this. Have no way to pull the hub if I buy a new one .. and not sure if reverse drill bit will back out the sheared bolts. Not sure the threads will be any good if I do get them out. Maybe I can tap them up one size? Not sure I want this 6 bolt arrangement anyway .... thinking maybe Ralph Cunnningham can help me with one of his single bolt with anti-rotation bolts arrangement is the way to go. Ralph swears by this, and says he's never lost a prop or even had one loosen with his system. He runs them on 30hp Reno Racers.

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

Engine was very, very rich when the bolts sheared. I'm pretty sure I didn't have them torqued down properly ... (Don't even know what proper torque is ???) I ran almost a 32 oz. tank through it before the incident. Needles were 1 1/2 turns open, and quite rich. (Hadn't began my tuning yet) Ran it up and checked the top end rpm (6000 rpm). Would idle incredibly slow .. (didn't check it) ... Ran it up to top end again for about the 3rd time .. (about 25 minutes run time) ... and prop shot off ! ... smacked the side of the house. [&o]

2robinhood

Lucky it was the house and not you.
What prop were you using?
Aren't you a dealer for the engine? Can you send it back to the factory as a defect and use another engine?
I would think if you are a dealer and this is your personal engine, the first time running it, they would take care of the person that is selling their engines.

2robinhood

The bolts should come out fairly easy.
They look to be broken off almost flush.
It's not like they are broken off down in the hole and taking them out will damage the theads of the hubs.
Any twisted threads of the bolts are ( at the first thread ) of the hub.
Hub is aluminum and bolts are steel, they can't be super tight or you would have pulled the threads out of the hub.
Use a small drill bit ans extractor, just make sure you go in the dead center of the broken bolt.
I wouldn't go that deep with the drill, i can't really seeing them being to awful tight, no need to go deeper then you have to at first.
I know they are socket head bolts, but I can't see them being a real hard grade if they broke the way they did.
If they are a hard grade they may be a real mother to drill.

fingers73

My Feedback: (2)

Now does the engine have sooooo much power that one tree would not hold? So you chaned it to the other. Any how their should be no load on the bolts now since the prop is gone, I would not be surprised if they would back out by hand. the head of the bolt is the pessure point, unless it skipped threads. Did it make a pop sound when you snugged them up? That would be the tell tail sign if they jumped.

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

Hahaha .... The tree is chained to the other due to a tornado that left it partially uprooted. I figured it would probably be lost anyways, so I chained it upright to see if it would actually take hold again. .. But the truth is ... one tree just ain't enough to restrain this sucka!