Hi, i would like know the best way to check and adjust incidence angles on our giants.
the theory is quite simple but the method is a little trickier!
What i am after is how others set up the plane and stabilize it on the bench, how to stop the flexing in parts with the weight of the gauge on it, do you set everything to a wing that you leveled first?

As you can see, i would like to learn how others are doing it to get the best resaults possile, also the easiest way possible.

I hope others can chime in with there great ideas!

Oh BTW, i have a comp arf extra 330l 2.6m that needs some checking, and the canopy frame is curved which makes it hard to establish a level point!

When scratchbuilding my planes, usually everything is set to 0 degrees. I would ask CARF what the wing, stab and thrust incidences are. Say the stabs are Zero. Put your meter on the stabs and zero it out. Then check the wings. Then the engine. Pretty simple to do. Usually people just check the wing to stab angles. Don't worry about leveling the fuse (not necessary but it makes it easier) if your meter can zero out at any angle.

Here's a link to my Carden Profile thread. Posts 155 to 170. [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6618794/mpage_7/key_Carden%2CProfile/tm.htm[/link]

Thanks for that. i think the comp-arf stabs and wings should be at 0 degrees on the extra.

i have found that if i dont support the wings and stabs, the plane can move around slightly and give false readings. i feel the there is no point checking and adjusting anything if your reading arn't true.

So i was after ideas on how others brace the plane to hold it steady and stop the surfaces flexing with the weight of the meter hanging on them.

Level it and tape the wing tips down to a ping pong table (long strips of the blue masking tape). Doesn't move at all. Readings are very accurate. You can go back and re-measure and they are always the same. I tape up the control surfaces to fix them.

Joe - what do you do with the net? Just kidding -LOL! Great tip about taping the control surfaces in place so they don't move. I don't have a ping pong table, but have used the kitchen table, folding table or even a ply sheet on a workmate to get 360 degree access while checking incidence and surface deflection. I keep in steady by blocking it up with some foam to get it where I need it and holding it down with bean bags (pinto is my favorite) or any weight that won't damage the plane (magazines/water bottles/etc.)

Take an old cotten sock that's pretty long. The old 1972 style cotton "tube" socks will usually work. Fill it with rice, or dry beans. Sew the end shut. Glue it shut with medium CA if you want.

I start out by blocking under the tail of the plane until my meter reads 0 on the horizontal stab. Now lay the sock over the turtledeck right in front of the vertical stabilizer. That's usually enough weight and length that the sock will settle down on the table and apply just enough pressure that the tail stays put.

The wings will still move around if you bump them. So don't bump them. I have never tried it, but I like the idea of using tape to stabilize them. I also tape the control surfaces in a neutral position with masking tape like Joe does.

The stab is usually the hardest part to adjust. So start out by blocking the tail up until the stab is at 0.

Now measure your wings. Adjust these to 0 if they don't already match the stab.

Engine thrust depends on the configuration of the plane. Usually an Edge, Extra 300 or Laser can fly with 0 downthrust or maybe 1* down. These are what I'd consider a shoulder wing. The Extra 300L or Cap 232, being low wing designs, will require 0 or even 1* upthrust. It depends on where the wing lays out.

My Extra 300L was built with 1/2* downthrust and it climbs when I chop throttle. Shoulda listened to T.O.M. [] I need to shim the motor UP to about 1* positive to correct this.

Right around March, after plane building season is over, the net goes back up.