wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Last winter I had the fortune to pick up a mostly completed 33% Lanier Laser 200 kit. It is now time for me to finish it.

As you can see from the pictures, some steps have been taken to lighten the plane, others have not. It has the fiberglass cowl, an an attempt was may to build up the turtledeck rather than use the plastic one. Also included in the deal was a brand new Quadra 75XL and ignition.

Looking over the building job, it has degraded over five years of storage and there are places where I'm not sure the original job was all that great. A number of the wing cap strips are coming loose and/or have gaps between them and the sheeting. The built up turtle deck has several loose stringers. Things like that.

Tonight, I went through and weighed everything. Including estimated covering and battery weights, I ended up at 20.6lb. So, first thing to do is put it on a diet. Hitting GraphTech for a wing tube, landing gear, and wheel pants, brings the weight down to 19.7lb. I plan to core the wings, which based on research will probably save about 4oz per wing. The built up turtle deck is made from hand picked pieces so even though it is made from 3/8" sticks, it only weighs between four and five ounces. I could cut that in half by using a balsa sheeted styro turtle deck, but I would have to go with 3/32" contest balsa for the sheeting and I don't know that it is worth it. I may still re-do the turtle deck, but not to save weight. The fuselage sides are the original door skin that came with the Lanier kit. I am going to check the glue joints to see how good they are. If they are good and strong, I will just "skeletonize" the sides. If they joints are weak, I'll likely replace with a nicer lighter plywood. I haven't decided what I am going to do with the hatch cover yet, but the plastic has to go. Assuming I can take about eight ounces out of the fuse just by cutting out unneeded door skin, my estimate is around 18.6lb. Add in weight for rigging, hinges, pushrods and other miscellaneous stuff, and I am aiming to keep it under 19lbs. Switching out the motor for something like a ZDZ-60 would put it in the 17.5lb range, though I am not sure about motor changes yet.

Servos will be an HS-7980TH on the rudder and HS-7954SH on the elevator halves and ailerons. The servos were picked to allow for 45 degree deflection at 75mph. Perhaps a bit of overkill considering the original recommended servos... Battery packs will be LiFePo4 packs, unregulated since I am using high voltage servos.

I will continue to post updates as I have them. Realistically, I hope to have it flyable for next spring.

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

Looks like you did a good job on the build. I've always liked the Lanier kits.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

I don't get to claim the build to the current point. As I dig further into the airframe, I'm finding that I am going to have to go over most of the joints. I pulled all the cap strips off the two wings and with a few exceptions there was no glue between the cap strips and the styro underneath. In lots of cases, a quick pull cleanly broke the glue joint on both sides. Nice for clean removal but not really confidence inspiring for strength. I had a couple of stringers on the fuselage that came out cleanly with a bit of a pull as well.

The hot wire cutter came in yesterday and the rest of the servos and carbon fiber pushrods came in today. Tomorrow I'm picking up 3/32x1" strips for the new cap strips as well as some aircraft plywood to build new servo mounts. I cut the existing servo mounts out and I am glad a did. There is no way that the existing mounts would have held a 400 oz/in servo.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Well, I got to spend some time on it this weekend. I put in the new cap strips and servo mount, then cored the wing. Everything went smoothly. Gluing was done with Sig-ment for wood to wood and Gorilla Glue for wood/foam to foam. I made a new servo mount that should be a bit more suited to the job. The cap plate that runs from the center spar to the TE spar is 3/32 basswood. A 3/32 birch ply doubler comes next. The ply doubler doesn't run the entire plate, only around the servo opening to provide extra strength and something for the mounting screws to bite into. Finally, 3/8" balsa surrounds the servo opening to give more surface area for gluing to the surrounding foam as well as further material for the servo screws. You can see a comparison of the original and new mounts in the picture. The new mount is 1/4 oz heavier than the old. The original servo opening in the wing core had been somewhat roughly enlarge. I evened up the sides with the hot wire cutter and then cut a plug to cover it.

I test fit the aileron servo in its new home and I'm rather happy with the results. Unfortunately, after all that, the wing weighs exactly the same as when I started. Not that I consider it completely wasted. I am much more comfortable with the structural integrity of the wing now.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Servo mount is drilled and tapped. I'm not sure about the control horn yet. The bevel is deep enough that the linkage isn't in line with the hinge line. I haven't decided whether I want to find some different clevises or just deal with the differential in the radio. The location of the clevis and resulting linkage geometry was picked to put the clevis as close to the center of force of the aileron as I could reasonably get it. Using 75mph and 45 deg deflection, the outboard portion of the aileron will generate about 89oz/in of torque and the inboard about 90 oz/in.

The pushrod ends are from ConnectorsRC.com, the rods are from Goodwinds, and the clevis and ball links are from Dubro.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Today I began work on the other wing, which was in somewhat worse shape. The original builder had forgot to cut a groove for the servo wire before sheeting the core. So, he had gouged out a grove in the unsheeted section for the wire. I suspect I have a bit of OCD or something like it, as doing something like that would drive me nuts. It annoyed me enough that I removed a section of the sheeting to put a proper groove in for the wires. You can see, in the first picture, the original builders groove and mine. I have a hot wire cutter, but it's not really the right tool for the job, so I made myself a "hot wire groover". I took a piece of wire clothes hanger and bent it to the shape I needed, the attached it to the business end of a 25W pencil soldering iron. The contact between the iron tip and the hangar wire left a bit to be desired so it was slow to cut. Better contact, or a higher power iron would fix that, but it was sufficient.

With the groove cut and a pull string run through it, I put back the sheeting I took off. I must say that the sheeting on this wing was much better attached than the other. I had to work to remove the section I did. I was careful to keep the section I removed intact and undamaged so that I could put it back and not have to worry about fitting a new piece.

With the sheeting back in place, I cut a strip of styro to fill the original groove. Probably a bit over the top as you would never see the foam once it was covered. But, like a said, a bit OCD. Plus it was pretty deep in places and in the thinner part of the core so I did have some worries about the foam cracking there. The glue hasn't finished setting up in the picture and by the time it was done, it had pretty well expanded to fill all the gaps. I have since trimmed the overflow and lightly sanded the whole thing. It is still obvious that it is patched, but I'm happy with it.

Over the next couple of days, I cut an fit the cap strips for this wing and cut it out too.

Kennoy

I think I have the same kit. I bought it from my Uncle in Sacramento, CA. several yrs ago. He bought it from a guy several yrs before that. The plane has never been crashed and has several hundred flights on it. It was built with a O.S. 300 twin 4 stroke. WAY under powered in my opinion. I took that engine out and installed a Sachs 4.2 (70cc) 2 stroke. MUCH better performance. Flying weight is a hair under 20 lbs.

I need to find a replacement canopy. The one that was on the plane was badly discolored and cracked so I cut it off with a razor blade. I also need to find the original plans for it so I can make a new rudder.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

I have the original plans for mine. I will look into getting you a copy, at least of the rudder. As far as the canopy goes, I have the original canopy, unused. I am thinking about going with the fiberglass hatch from Robert Godfried. It comes with the canopy molded in. I am debating using it and cutting out the canopy so I can have a clear canopy. If for some reason I don't use my canopy, I'll let you know.

Kennoy

that would be great. I've seen some people use the top of a 2 liter soda bottle and cut it to match their canopy but I would rather use an original or similar canopy VS a soda bottle LOL.

thanks

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

I can certainly give you a dimensional drawing of the canopy. You may be able to find a replacement for another airframe that is a close enough match.

FLYINMIKE-RCU

My Feedback: (25)

You Can Get The Canopy You Need From Greg At..... http://www.glhobbies.com/

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

The Lanier Laser has got to be one of the best kept secrets. I love mine! Did lots of mods to get the weight down to 15# with a DA 50 in the cowl. I made templates while I was building and at present have 4 more under construction. Only changes I am making is increase rudder cord 2" and reduce rudder/fin height 3". That should take care of the rudder to aileron cross control. I changed my canopy to one I cut from a Comp ARF Extra.

Avaiojet

Congrats on finishing that model!

The Laser is absolutely a great airplane to model. It should be noted that the late, Leo Loudenslager designed and flew the actual airplane.

I never built the balsa model, but I did build a 1/4 scale rendition of Leo's Laser out of copper and metal.

This "sculpture" sits on top of a 20' pole at the Sussex airport in memory of Leo and is a reminder of Leo's success as a pilot and as a great individual.

Just thought I'd pass this info on.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Thanks for sharing that with us Charles. I think Leo was way ahead of his time. Can you imagine if he was still with us and kept evolving the Laser? I know he was into the Shark program when he passed but I think it would have proven to be too complex.


When I built my Laser I tried to imagine what canges could Leo have made to it to compete with the current aircraft out there. The first thing I did was to put a cleaner canopy on it. If you look at the pictures of the Laser as it hangs in it's current resting place you will notice it did have a canopy update. The next was to clean up the cowl. My next laser project will have airfoiled tail section and some better shapped wheel pants. I can't help but think that if Leo were alive we would see him tearing it up in the Red Bull races with the Edges.

Avaiojet

I can agree with all of that, especially the adition to an airfoil with the tail fearhers. That change alone would make a difference.

Is that your yellow Laser?

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Yes that is my Laser, It was finished and test flown last year on Thanksgiving day. Now has well over 300 flights. A joy to fly and still somewhat competitive. Currently building 4 more. Two of them will be duplicates of the first while one will get a set of 2M wings for Pattern. The last is built a lillt more beefy as to handle a DA 85. The one pictured weighs 15 1/4 LBS with a DA50 the 85cc version will come out close to 19LBS. I'm in the process of making molds for the cowl, pants ant hatch/canopy now.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Well, time to come back to an old thread. I have been working off and on on the Laser and been making some progress. I have come to the conclusion that this is probably the last second hand kit I will ever buy. I seem to have a different level of expectations when it comes to building than some even so called experienced builders. But I digress.

Apparently as I was fixing the issues with the wings I didn't pay close enough attention and I put the servo pockets on the wrong side of the wing. I didn't notice until I went to test fit both wings later. Very annoying, but I spent an evening pulling up the sheeting and putting the pockets on the correct side of both wings. With that done, I test fit the servos and made the aileron pushrods. The rods are 3/16 carbon fiber with ends from connectorsrc.com. I used JB weld to attach the ends.

The blocks and threads for the wing bolts are in place. I used 1/4" threaded inserts front and back and glue 3/8" blocks into the wing root. Towards the trailing edge you can see the guide tube for the wing incidence adjusters. I took a page from the pattern guys and got a set from Central Hobbies. It will give me much more flexibility in trimming the plane. The adjusters themselves mount to the side, behind the radio bay. Not the easiest place to get to, but it is at least accessible. Since the wing incidence is adjustable, the holes in the fuse through which the wing nuts pass have to be routed out to allows the wing nuts to move up and down. In the last picture, the port side mount has been elongated, but I haven't gotten to the starboard one yet.

With that, the wings are effectively complete. I haven't run the final servo extensions yet, but all the mechanical and building parts are complete.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

My next area of focus was the tail. The stabilizers, rudder, and elevators had all been completed prior to my purchasing the kit. I hinged them with Dubro 1/4 scale hinges and did a test fit. I fit everying in place and then drilled throught the bottom of the vertical stab, through the center of the horizonal and into the top of the fuse. I put a set of three 4-40 blind nuts in the fuse so I could bolt the tail in place while I worked on it. In the end I will glue it but it makes it much easier to work with. You can see the bolts in the first picture.

The flying wires for the tail are carbon fiber rod with 2-56 threaded ends JB welded on. Pictures only show the top ones, but I put in matching ones on the bottom as well. These go into 2-56 threaded clevis which attach to flying wire straps. Once everything is in place and squared up I drop some thin CA on the threads to freeze everything in place, but until then I can adjust all the lengths. I had to move the elevator servos forward a few inches. In the original location, the two servos hit without setting flush. The final effort on the tail was to put in the tail wheel. I used a Hangar 9 CF tail wheel assembly.

With that, I reached a good stopping spot on the tail assembly.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

I had been pondering a while what to do for power. When I bought the kit, the original build had a Quadra 75XL that he was going to use. By all accounts, it was certainly powerful enough, but it was rather heavy. Plus, because of the cowl design on the Laser 200, I was going to have like half the cylinder head hanging down below the cowl. That obviously wouldn't do, so I sold the Quadra and went searching for a replacement. I started looking for an 80 twin that would fit and didn't really have a whole lot of luck. Either too big, too heavy, or too pricey. I ended up getting a DLE-111. You would thing this kit was built around it. Both cylinders fit perfectly in the cowl bulges, the stock standoff put the spinner to cowl gap at about 1.5-2mm. The carb does extend slightly below the cowl, as you can see in the pictures, but it is not by much. I may just build a bulge onto the bottom on the cowl to cover it and protect is as well as to house an air filter.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

With a power plant in the works, I started pondering the mufflers. After looking at the "mufflers" that come with the 111, I can see why people have taken to calling the exhaust diverters. While the sound rules at my field are reasonably easy to meet, I prefer a quieter plane, so I started pondering a canister setup. I've got power to spare for the plane, so any loss of power won't be a big deal, but I still wanted to put the biggest canisters in I could. Unfortunately, the original Lanier kit was produced well before canisters were the norm. After measuring and pondering a bit, I picked up a pair of DLE-55/111 cannisters from TBM.

Based on the measurements, they would be a tight fit, and test fitting them proved that. When they technically would fit with the stock setup under the radio bay floor, it would allow for very little air flow and generally be too tight all around. Plus, the mounts would actually protrude up into the radio bay. So, I made the decision to do some re-engineering. I am moving the floor of the radio bay up about 5/8" and rebuilding the landing gear mounts and the undercarriage back to the back of the radio bay. I cut out the floor and spent some time making lots of dust with the dremmel to get everything smoothed out and cleaned up.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

I laminated a piece of 3/16" ply wood onto the back of the first former to help strengthen it since I cut out a bunch for the cans. I glued it with a 5 to 1 mixture of Titebond II and Gorilla glue to get a little expansion to help fill some of the unevenness in the wood. For those who are curious, you do loose some strength in the glue mix, but the 3/16" ply failed before the glue bond in the test piece I did. You can see the test fitting of the gear block and the rear gear block support in the last two pictures. I intend to and further bracing along the sides to help strengthen the whole structure.

So now I am caught up with pictures and the work log. I'm making good progress on building the cannister tunnel and rebuilding the underside of the radio bay, so I should post some more soon.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

By looking at this picture I don't see how you are going to get any airflow past the cannisters?

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Since that picture was taken, I have cut out the center section between the two holes. Beyond that, the way the cowling on a Laser 200 meets the fuselage, I am going to put vent intakes on either side. Between the three openings, I should be able to get sufficient airflow through the tunnel. The outlet will be in the bottom of the fuse behind the radio bay.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Here are some updates and more pictures from the ongoing rebuild.

You can see the cutout to open up the front of the tunnel for a little more airflow. There is approximately an eight of an inch all the way around the cannisters when installed. The mounts do block some of the airflow, but it is about as much as I could get through the front opening. The back mount offers much more space around the cannisters. The sides of the tunnel are 1/8" birch plywood with 1/4" braces on the inside. This connects the rear of the landing gear mount to the rest of the airframe. There are 1/8" braces running from the LG vertical back to the bottom of the fuse and a 3/8" basswood brace down the middle. I am going to screw a 1/8" superlite ply hatch down here so that I can get into the tunnel if needed. The front of the tunnel sides under the LG plate are going to get another brace, but otherwise will be fairly open. I am thinking of putting scoops in that extend just a bit past the cowl to fee fresh air into the tunnel. You can see the air exit vent framework at the rear of the tunnel. It will exist the bottom of the fuse just behind the rear cockpit/radio bay former. It is a tight fit to get both cannisters in, but they do fit.

sensei

I loved my 1/3 scale Lanier Laser 200, I placed it on a diet the moment I opend the box of wood and the all up weight came in at 15 lbs. 8 ozs. with a DA 50 on stock mufflers.

Bob