Airworld Gee Bee R3 build
06-16-2015, 03:32 PM
#51
My Feedback: (21)
Thanks for the info on the flying wire attach points. I was a little afraid of that when I was bending them up. I finally got mine together enough to do an initial CG check. It's fitted with a Moki 250 and the CG came in right at 6 inches aft without any batteries or spinner. It came in right at 40 pounds without the batteries or smoke pump. It seems light for such a large airplane. I replaced all the molded bumps with stainless steel screws. That took a lot of time, but they sure got a lot of attention at the field. 
06-16-2015, 11:52 PM
#52
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Its amazing how rapidly the weight build up on this model, out of the box i was expecting 40Lb finished. one thing for me is the Evo weighs about 1kg more than the moki IIRC , also using 2 recievers and 2 6000mah lipos for radio with a 3000 for ignition.
Another aspect of the kit i found annoying was the suspension/spat attachment shoulder bolts were IMHO dangerously short and not up to the task, i machined new longer ones.
The rigging wires are well tolerenced and will fit well but it requires patience, after a few goes you can probably rig this plane in about ten mins, first session though was a good hour of testing and tensioning, the wires inboard of the spats are the trickiest and shortest and i start with these to ensure there is enough thread in the clevises, the wires need to be very tight not to vibrate with the engine running, i tension them until the rear incedence peg becomes just visible when the wing trailing edge JUST starts tu pull away from the fuzz due to the tension.
Its a funny kit really, loads of awesome features (and has to be best looking prop plane ever, even over a spitfire dare i say) and loads of niggly annoying features that need to be overcome.
on Balance, i will buy another, and plan too, Airworld customer service doesnt help tho, not sure about anywhere else but its very poor here in England.
Another aspect of the kit i found annoying was the suspension/spat attachment shoulder bolts were IMHO dangerously short and not up to the task, i machined new longer ones.
The rigging wires are well tolerenced and will fit well but it requires patience, after a few goes you can probably rig this plane in about ten mins, first session though was a good hour of testing and tensioning, the wires inboard of the spats are the trickiest and shortest and i start with these to ensure there is enough thread in the clevises, the wires need to be very tight not to vibrate with the engine running, i tension them until the rear incedence peg becomes just visible when the wing trailing edge JUST starts tu pull away from the fuzz due to the tension.
Its a funny kit really, loads of awesome features (and has to be best looking prop plane ever, even over a spitfire dare i say) and loads of niggly annoying features that need to be overcome.
on Balance, i will buy another, and plan too, Airworld customer service doesnt help tho, not sure about anywhere else but its very poor here in England.
08-19-2015, 09:41 PM
#53
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Location: Oreye , Liege, BELGIUM
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09-15-2015, 02:08 PM
#57
My Feedback: (21)
I'm sure that would be powerful enough, but in the Gee Bee's case, a lighter engine isn't better. This airplane seems to come out tail heavy and the added motor weight of the Moki is beneficial. I think you could make the DLE work, but you'll probably have to add a lot of nose weight to get the proper CG. I haven't flown mine yet (throttle servo went out on my first engine ground run). Nor have I dialed in the CG. I think I may be a little tail heavy even with the Moki. I can assure you the airplane is a real head turner at the field & when I get it going it is going to be awesome. I would recommend this airplane to anyone. It just takes a few people to get it assembled at the field as it is so big. Each time out to the field it gets closer to getting in the air. I'm not rushing it! I'll post an update with my progress.
09-15-2015, 07:15 PM
#59
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Hi,
Yes, with the Moki 300, I had to place my 3 batteries in the front ( close to 1KG). And this is not too much, the airplane is pretty neutral.
The Moki is a bit pricy but the sound of the engine is just fantastic and it fits perfectly inside the cowl...
Power wise, this is not a 3D plane, the Moki 250 is more than enough... I'm very happy with the 300, So, if you use the DLE222, you will have plenty.....
I think that with this shape, the GeeBee needs a radial engine, but this is just me...
( Just check the size of the DLE, it might be a bit long...)
Just let us know what you have decided...
:-)
Pierre
Yes, with the Moki 300, I had to place my 3 batteries in the front ( close to 1KG). And this is not too much, the airplane is pretty neutral.
The Moki is a bit pricy but the sound of the engine is just fantastic and it fits perfectly inside the cowl...
Power wise, this is not a 3D plane, the Moki 250 is more than enough... I'm very happy with the 300, So, if you use the DLE222, you will have plenty.....
I think that with this shape, the GeeBee needs a radial engine, but this is just me...
( Just check the size of the DLE, it might be a bit long...)
Just let us know what you have decided...
:-)
Pierre
09-16-2015, 03:12 PM
#60
Pierre amazing first flight... i think i will go on 300 Also. What CG are you using? what prop are you using and how much rpm are you getting?
I notice that this plane with the correct CG is easy to land.. but i saw some terrible videos on internet.. propably with wrong setup.
I notice that this plane with the correct CG is easy to land.. but i saw some terrible videos on internet.. propably with wrong setup.
09-17-2015, 10:28 PM
#61
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Hi heraldoboldrin
,
I'm not a big expert with the GeeBee, I have only 3 flights and 6 or 7 landing. But the airplane doesn't seem to too difficult to land ( just a bit touchy during flare) and fly lovely.
Ha yes, I found the airplane easier to land with " MID-FLAPS" around 30°... but this is, may be, just me.
I flew the first time on a quiet long runway (150m).... Just to have some margin in case of ... Used only half of it.
The Moki seems to be a perfect engine for the plane with a 34/18 prop.
I had to modify the CG after the first flight. It was a bit too aft. So, Just give me a few days, and I'll check it for you.
I'll give you the CG info in a few days.
Pierre
I'm not a big expert with the GeeBee, I have only 3 flights and 6 or 7 landing. But the airplane doesn't seem to too difficult to land ( just a bit touchy during flare) and fly lovely.
Ha yes, I found the airplane easier to land with " MID-FLAPS" around 30°... but this is, may be, just me.
I flew the first time on a quiet long runway (150m).... Just to have some margin in case of ... Used only half of it.
The Moki seems to be a perfect engine for the plane with a 34/18 prop.
I had to modify the CG after the first flight. It was a bit too aft. So, Just give me a few days, and I'll check it for you.
I'll give you the CG info in a few days.
Pierre
09-26-2016, 12:47 PM
#62
My Feedback: (34)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iTb...CvuVJfaGwjAwkB
Well Guys, I have gotten 10 flights on my Airworld Gee Bee R3 and they are getting better, but I could use some advice.
Above was the 2nd flight, and had a mishap as it got a lot of gunk in the carb filter and would not let the motor go to idle, ever landing attempt I was down trimming the idle 2 clicks until it dead sticked on me. Lesson Learned. It was a very 18-19 mph windy day and I did not want to turn with the wind until I was sure the motor was running again. No real damage, chip paint on wheel pants, and cracked up the wing. Im really good at glass work, so its fixed and looks better than when I got it used.
So I learned that some Moki 250 motors, do not like to go to 100% throttle. Mine on the ground would give me 4400rpm with 34X18 prop on the ground at 3/4 stick travel and down to 4000 at full 100% stick power. So I was told to use my DX18 and make 85% throttle movement full stick movement on the TX, and it flys a lot better now, but even with the Moki electric pump, at the top of my loops and split S maneuvers the rpm bogs down. It did this with eather TX settings.
Its not as pronounced at the beginning of the flight, but after 2 min or so its sags some. I got plenty of cooling and have a baffle around the motor to ensure as much air as possible hits the fins.
Im not sure how I should change the tune for this? Or could it be something eles? Any pictures of your air exits?
Even thow I was having landing issues in this flight as the motor would not slow down, I was told by someone eles I need way more full flap settings.
So what has become your favorite landing flap angle?
Not sure of CG, its what ever the guy who built it set at, I added a smoke tank and pump right infront of wing tube and it made no difference.
I added smoke, cool, but seems to really cool off the muffler quickly LOL
Thanks Mike
Well Guys, I have gotten 10 flights on my Airworld Gee Bee R3 and they are getting better, but I could use some advice.
Above was the 2nd flight, and had a mishap as it got a lot of gunk in the carb filter and would not let the motor go to idle, ever landing attempt I was down trimming the idle 2 clicks until it dead sticked on me. Lesson Learned. It was a very 18-19 mph windy day and I did not want to turn with the wind until I was sure the motor was running again. No real damage, chip paint on wheel pants, and cracked up the wing. Im really good at glass work, so its fixed and looks better than when I got it used.
So I learned that some Moki 250 motors, do not like to go to 100% throttle. Mine on the ground would give me 4400rpm with 34X18 prop on the ground at 3/4 stick travel and down to 4000 at full 100% stick power. So I was told to use my DX18 and make 85% throttle movement full stick movement on the TX, and it flys a lot better now, but even with the Moki electric pump, at the top of my loops and split S maneuvers the rpm bogs down. It did this with eather TX settings.
Its not as pronounced at the beginning of the flight, but after 2 min or so its sags some. I got plenty of cooling and have a baffle around the motor to ensure as much air as possible hits the fins.
Im not sure how I should change the tune for this? Or could it be something eles? Any pictures of your air exits?
Even thow I was having landing issues in this flight as the motor would not slow down, I was told by someone eles I need way more full flap settings.
So what has become your favorite landing flap angle?
Not sure of CG, its what ever the guy who built it set at, I added a smoke tank and pump right infront of wing tube and it made no difference.
I added smoke, cool, but seems to really cool off the muffler quickly LOL
Thanks Mike
Last edited by mikes68charger; 09-26-2016 at 01:10 PM.
09-26-2016, 03:52 PM
#64
My Feedback: (34)
I actually had one of those and if you need a set a retracks with the robo shocks hit me up I got a new set sitting downstairs
I lost mine on the second flight with my rudder servo locked up. Needs one really big servo or two good servos on the rudder.
It flies much better now that I'm used to it GB definitely needs rudfer for good turns. It flies like a 540 edge when you're not scared of it no more
09-26-2016, 05:07 PM
#65
My Feedback: (2)
Mike,
The C/G on the R3 is 150mm. However, I learned the hard way the C/G should be closer to the front.
With the Moki 250, weight needs to be added to the front to set the balance point to 140mm. This will be slightly out front of the wing tube socket.
At 150mm, the plane will porpoise and tip stall. Hard to land.
Attached is a bracket I made to check the balance.
The flaps on my deceased R3 went about 75 degrees. Program down elevator with flaps to help keep speed up before final.
Good luck,
J Tab
The C/G on the R3 is 150mm. However, I learned the hard way the C/G should be closer to the front.
With the Moki 250, weight needs to be added to the front to set the balance point to 140mm. This will be slightly out front of the wing tube socket.
At 150mm, the plane will porpoise and tip stall. Hard to land.
Attached is a bracket I made to check the balance.
The flaps on my deceased R3 went about 75 degrees. Program down elevator with flaps to help keep speed up before final.
Good luck,
J Tab
09-27-2016, 04:18 AM
#66
My Feedback: (23)
I actually had one of those and if you need a set a retracks with the robo shocks hit me up I got a new set sitting downstairs
I lost mine on the second flight with my rudder servo locked up. Needs one really big servo or two good servos on the rudder.
It flies much better now that I'm used to it GB definitely needs rudfer for good turns. It flies like a 540 edge when you're not scared of it no more
I lost mine on the second flight with my rudder servo locked up. Needs one really big servo or two good servos on the rudder.
It flies much better now that I'm used to it GB definitely needs rudfer for good turns. It flies like a 540 edge when you're not scared of it no more
08-10-2023, 01:33 PM
#67
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jaketab
i fly in north Georgia and have just ordered a Airworld Gee Bee R3. is there a way i could interest you in sharing your photos of your build. i just received a copy of the documentation from airworld and it is a bit concerning.....
Gregg
i fly in north Georgia and have just ordered a Airworld Gee Bee R3. is there a way i could interest you in sharing your photos of your build. i just received a copy of the documentation from airworld and it is a bit concerning.....
Gregg
