Scott, I don't mind you asking at all but the best place to get that information is [email protected]. I don't know any thing about that Decathlon. Maybe Marcus will drop in here with a few comments.

Hello to everyone, be aware this kit is stand-off scale, we tried to purchase the real drawing from American Champion, it was impossible. Improvements will be done with time.

We appreciate suggestions for the next generation of Decathlon kit.

Michel Normandin
Aircraft Modelers Research inc.

Scott, the G&L 50% SD is basically a double size A&A (formerly Bud Nosen) 1/4 scale Citabria - the structure is identical. It's not a scale model, it's an enlargement of an existing stand-way-off-in-the-next-county model. The subject of this thread is much more scale, altough there are a few bugs to be ironed out yet, I am in touch with both Michel (the producer) and Ken (the builder) about this and we will be discussing these details around here. Marcus

Ken any updates?
Anthony

I worked on installing screws in the cowl. On the full scale SD they look like phillips head screws. They may be dzus (sp) fasteners, I don't know. I bought a box of 10-32 flat head stainless screws to simulate the real ones. There are backing strips and blind nuts.

Looks like nice fiberglass parts.
Anthony

The quality of the fiberglass is excellent. Very few pin holes.

They are philips head screws with a conical head and conical washer, take a look at the pic below...

Uhhhhhhhhhh.......... what pics?

lol

[&o][&o][&o] in a hurry I forgot to add the pix...


See below

Marcus

[&o][&o][&o] in a hurry I forgot to add the pix...


See below

Marcus

Here is the motor box. This is the first time that I have ever put servos in the close vicinity of an engine. The common thing that I read is that engine noise is not a problem with a 2.4 GHz radio. I am using Futaba S3152 standard digital servos. Will they stand up under these conditions?

Top right servo for throttle.
Bottom right servo for choke.
Bottom left servo for kill switch.

Looks nice,
from the pics it looks like there is quite a bit of right thrust built into the engine box?
Anthony

It's the normal amount, 2 degrees. That required the engine to be offset to the left 0.3".

I guess 2 deg looks alot more when it is on a Huge firewall and engine
Anthony

The SD structure is light being made of lite ply but it is very strong. In areas where I can lighten the structure even more without compromising strength I am doing so.

As an example, I used triangle stock and epoxy behind the front plate (firewall) on the engine box. I also used #6 x 1" flat head wood screws around the sides of the firewall. These were put in using Titebond II. I cut a hole in the firewall behind the engine and on 2 places in F1 former. I glued in 1/16" balsa into these 2 holes because I didn't want engine heat entering the cabin.

Former F2B is laminated between 2 stiffeners F2C and F2D. I removed some wood from F2B.

Hello here mine with a zdz 210cc

Good looking plane Michel. Give us a flight report.

A really beautiful model, Michel, guess it's based on G-IZZZ...nice scheme.
Guess it flies like a Dream.

Congratulations.

Marcus

I just received the beautiful TruTurn 6" Ultimate style spinner and Xoar 32 x 10 prop. I had to block the cowl up over the engine to see how it looks. Although it would look better out in the sunshine I thought you might like to see it now.

Currently I'm working on fitting and lightening some the pieces. Pretty soon I'll have assemblies to show and comment on.

I have been busy in the shop building a few more pieces. The first photo shows the vertical stab. I put a few lightening holes in it to lighten it up by 1 oz. The third photo shows the rudder. Note: it has been tapered to 1/4" at the trailing edge. This is absolutely not necessary, you can round the trailing per the instructions and it will look fine. However, I decided to offer this option because it removes one more ounce from the structure and approximates the shape of the full scale Super Decathlon.

The last photo shows the engine cooling air exhaust chute and the landing gear cover. I will probably build the horizontal stab and elevators next. I like to get these parts out of the way first before starting the fuselage.

Looking good Ken,
That cowling ,prop and spinner looks massive. At the rate you are trimming weight out of the tail that will really add up when it come balance time, a few ounces out of the tail will get rid of alot of lead in the nose.
Later!!
Anthony

Fantastic progress Ken.
The Full Scale has indeed tapered trailing edges both on the rudder AND the stab.
Marcus

Marcus, I will taper the elevators the same way that I did the rudder. Three reasons: looks better, removes weight, and allows less weight to be used in the counter balance. The instruction manual doesn't mention it but Michel said that it is a good idea to counter balance the elevators on this airplane and I agree with him.

I had to do the same thing on my Ziroli Corsair after a flutter developed in the elevator.