leedees

Now that would be a crowd!

zootster

I waited all week for the Zenoah to turn up. Finally arrived at the Hobby Shop mid afternoon. I wasnt going to drive in peak hour traffic to get it. Probably a 4hr round trip. I will go tomorrow morning (Sat). No traffic and take half the time. Should have her running by late afternoon. YES!
Really nothing else to do on her. Just little bits and pieces. I did paint the area between the windscreen and instrument panel satin black. Looks way better.

zootster

At last, the motor is in, all control surfaces are operational. Problem is i cant find a "T" piece for the fuel line. Have to hunt around or make one. I got the helmet but cant find the parachute.

Rudolph Hart

watch you worried about bro?? could end up with some free extra weight aft!

Zootster that is one beautiful aeroplane,can't wait for mine.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

zootster,

Nice looking Taylorcraft dude. Let us know how the maiden goes. I noticed that you do not have the baffles installed. Keep it up high for the first flight just in case it over heats. Mine overheated until I installed the baffles. To much air coming in and not enough going out. The hot air just pools around in the cowl causing the engine to het hot quick.

zootster

Baffles?

CRG

My Feedback: (3)

Should have been a black cowl baffle in the kit.

zootster

Thanks, but where do they go and have Zenoah 20 engines been overheating?

Lotsofcrashes

The two oval shaped baffles are glued to the inside of the cowl at the front. They match up with the two holes in the cowling, I think thats in the instructions somewhere.

CRG

My Feedback: (3)

Depends what motor you have, how you fly, ambient temps etc. The H9 guys determined that some people might have cooling issues in their local environment, so included the baffles.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

Everything that was said about the baffles is correct. The baffle installation is in the manual on page 45, step #5. The only way to tell if your engine will over heat is to fly it and see. If it does, then just add the baffles. I had to add them because my DLE 30 would over heat. Everything seems fine now but this coming hot summer will tell if anything else needs to be done. Don't be fooled by the big openings in the front of the cowl thinking that will bring more air in and keep the engine cooler. To much air coming in and not enough going out is what causes the over heating conditon. Using the baffles lets less air in and more going out the bottom.

zootster

You Fellas are Gems. Thanks for the info. I completely missed it. I hopefully will run the motor this afternoon. I have to go to work (On Sunday. That sucks) and do some do some Open Inspections. Just have to Borrow a fuel pump from a mate/

Cheers

AA5BY

I think the baffles intentionally don't fit flush and are painted mat black to appear to not to be a surface part of the cowl. Tape them in place and add some silicone to secure.

I don't have the newer Taylorcraft but just finished a rebuild of the older Hanger 9 Taylorcraft and used the cowl and windscreen from the new.

zootster

61ahs

Back to baffles for a moment...........

My TC must have been from an early production run. When I received it I opened the box and inspected all of the parts and then quickly read through the manual. The cowl baffle instructions had me confused because my cowl had no seperate baffles and the cooling holes looked like what you would end up with after installing the baffles - which I didn't have!?!?!?

The cowl had a chip in the fake cooling scoop on top, so I ordered a replacement cowl. When it arrived it had giant cooling holes and plywood baffles just like the manual indicated. Hum, two different cowls. I installed the second cowl with the baffles glued in place.

Apparently Hangar 9 designed the cowl with small cooling holes and then for whatever reason changed the design to one with big holes and plywood baffles.

Rick

AA5BY

Or the other way around... it could be either way, the newer cowls might have the baffles built into the glass. At any rate, it has become well established that outflow area has to exceed inflow area so baffling has become a much better way to accomplish that than cutting huge excessive outflows. Also, tunneling is being designed into many models to produce larger outflow areas without cutting so much of the cowl, though I'm not sure if the new Taylorcraft used tunneling.

As related, I've just completed a rebuild of the earlier Taylorcraft and it had no tunneling but was incorporated in the rebuild. Tunneling is very easy to build if the firewall is set square and right thrust accomplished with the motor mounts. Here is a pic of what I ended up with.

http://pages.suddenlink.net/arlyn/P0002922.JPG

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

61ahs,

Now that is a different cowl. The replacement cowl at Horizon shows the cowl like everyone else has so it appears that yours may have been a first run. When did you get your Taylorcraft?
I would still paint the area that is white so it would look better and more scale.

61ahs

Zippi,

A buddy of mine owns a hobby shop and he ordered the Taylorcraft for me a week before Horizon ran out of them. So I think mine came from the bottom of their pile - one of the first they got in. Anyways, I've already installed the replacement cowl with the plywood baffles glued in place. I'll keep the original as a spare in case I have an unfortunate incident with the ground.

Rick

leedees

My G20 has been overheating in the Taylorcraft. I've got the baffles installed per the manual. It hasn't quit on me but it is way too hot after gentle flying.

I must be running too lean. Any thoughts on this?

CRG

My Feedback: (3)

Richening it even a fair amount is not going to reduce the temps much in my experience. Does it get so hot that it sags or performance suffers?

The G20 in my Cub is really hot after a 40 minute flight of water touch and goes, but never misses a beat or sags. Seems they just run hot.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

leedees,

If your engine gets to hot it will let you know within a few laps of the field because it will start loosing power and die. Thats the trouble I was having until I blocked off more of the cowl in front and I also richened it up about 1/8" on the low end. After a flight the cowl feels a little warm but thats normal with a cowled in engine.

5blue

Old Fart,

I'm sure somewhere down the road someone will try some exotic setup. An O.S. FT160 Twin sounds nice. A fellow at our field has one on a giant Super Cub and it sounds great.

_____________________________
Has anyone mounted and fitted a OS 160 twin in the cowl without cuts - saw the video on the twin and it was cool - but wish not to cut up the cowl or build out the box - will this work and has anyone got some pictures to show??/

ya33a

Hi,

Thought I'd add my 2c worth, just had santa bring a brand new Taylorcraft and Sato FG20 to my house a couple of weeks early. I didn't have the heart to tell him so it's hidden in the spare room till later in the month.

I thought the 20cc 4 stroke would have the grunt for the plane running a 16x8 which is the biggest prop mentioned with 9500 and 1500 rpm as the spread, I thought if it came in under 5kg, (11 pounds) then things should be ok, the engine weighs not much, (I have a 2m 6'7" Katana with a 26cc stroker in it weighing in at 7kg and it goes great, not IMAC but quite round loops and doesn't drop like a stone).

A cub I know of with about an 8' (2.4m) wingspan runs a 90 glo motor - the full size cub only had 150Hp so the difference means I'll have to fly the plane, I saw a PT17 Sterman with an OS120 and it was way overpowered, and too nose heavy, needed weight at the tail to make it balance, so a 90 would have been better. I think there will have to be a smalll amount of 'crow' or reflex programmed into the ailerons to help with tip stalling and also look at making th eflaps functional possibly?

I'll be cutting the grills out to let the air out and rework the plumbing to get air to the rear mounted carby, so the engine bay will be functional with the battery and all the other stuff there. One thing I like about the Gas 4 stroke is the light fuel load and the great sound the engine willl make.

I'll keep you posted....

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

Looks like the flying season has finally come to an end here for me but I did manage to get 12 flights in on the Taylorcraft and got all the bugs worked out and got her dialed in. This plane will see a lot of air time come next year. The next time my Taylorcraft will leave the house will be for our mall show that we have every year. I'll have to touch up a lot of the white paint and clean her up pretty good but it should be a crowd pleaser at the mall show. Anyone plan on flying their Taylorcraft in the cold winter months ?

AA5BY

Zippi..... here in NE Texas, we fly year around though one has to pick their days in both the winter and sometimes in the very hot summer. We get many days with temps reaching sixty or more during the winter but 50 degrees here with high humidity and especially any breeze would equate to 35-40 in the North.

Glad to hear you've got the Taylorcraft dialed in and waiting for flying season to return in spring. I've just completed a rebuild of the earlier version of the Hanger 9 Taylorcraft and will be flying it someday soon.