Greg Covey

I've been trying to acquire an AXI 5330/18 motor but they are a ways out yet here in the states. Depending upon which motor delivers more power, I can switch to that while I assemble the ailerons and servos in the wing.

I'll keep you posted...

Mike Parsons

http://www.puffinmodels.com said they should have them in 2-3 weeks. I would imagine it wont take long for HL to get their stock on this side of the pond.


Some stats:
AXI 5320/28 Kv 249rpm/V typical props 21x14 with 8s, 18x12 with 10s.
AXI 5320/34 Kv 206rpm/V typical props 19x12 and 20x11 with 10s.

AXI 5330/18 Kv 259rpm/V typical props 19x21, 20x11, 20x13 with 10s
AXI 5530/24 Kv 197rpm/V typical props 23x10, 21x14 with 10s.

Darrell B.

Greg,
I'm new to planes of this size. What size servos would you use? The recomendations just say at least 50oz. I'm still working on the Top Flite P-51, and was wondering if you would recommend digital servos for it. I've never used them, but they look like they would work very well. What do you think? I'm like you, I am wanting to see how the AXI 5330 specs out. I think that the 18turn should really cook. It should be able to turn a 23 or 24 inch prop easily. I do hope that Jeti will release their 90 Amp ESC under their own lable soon. I just don't like to pay for the Hacker name, when I can get the same product from the manufacturer. I just received my plane and will start a threat tomorrow. I'm not sure that I will go with Tanic batteries, or Apogee. Do you have any experiences with the Tanic packs?

Good Luck,
Darrell Button

Greg Covey

Hi Darrell,

For my Hangar 9 Edge, they recommend the JR 8411 and 8611 digital servos. These are top of the line hi-torque servos for 3D so consider that when you see the pricing.

I also intend to try a more cost-effective Hitec HS-5645 digital hi-torque servo. While these servos have similar torque as the JRs, they are a bit slower and much lower in price.

While I was traveling last weekend, all my harware for the Edge 540 arrived so I can start the assembly soon.

Jeti will have a new line of ESCs available in the future that goes beyond the Advanced series but I cannot disclose the details yet. When I can, i'll post back here.

I haven't tried a Tanic pack yet.

Regards.

Darrell B.

Greg,
Thanks for the update! I look forward to hearing and seeing about your build. I am looking at the Hitec 5925 for my build, at least on the rudder and elevators. I may go with a standard servo on the tail wheel stering, and a large micro for the retract valve. IYHO do you think that a plane needs as much torque on the flaps and/or ailerons as it does on the tail feathers? Thanks for the heads up on the Jeti controllers.
Good Luck,
Darrell

Greg Covey

Darrell,

The control surface torque needed depends upons several factors. Control surface size, intended use, and finally, flying skills.

For example, a 3D-capable plane has large ailerons. A warbird typically has smaller ailerons. Some folks never use the rudder on a 4-channel plane or never intend to try a knife-edge pass.

Pick the servo that best suits your needs and model.

Harley Licht

Greg,

Take a good look at the current draw on the Hitec 5645's and 5625's.
It is REALLY high.

I was considering those for my Aero-Model Funtana 1.40, but went with
the Hitec 5945/5925 family. These have higher toque, better speed,
Coreless motors and MUCH Lower current draw. Of course they cost
more though.. But the price seems to fall in-between the Jr 8411/8611's
and the Hitec 5625/45's.....

Harley

Greg Covey

Harley,

Thanks for the information.

I've been directed to use the JR 8411 servos with Matchboxes and the 8611 servo for the rudder. I will also be using a JR PCM radio system.

Either way, current should not be an issue as I intend to use a new product from FMA Direct. It is called the VRL12 "Power Force" regulator. It works on a 2s, 3s, or 4s Lithium pack as well as 5-12 NiCd cells. The 6v output can run up to 12 high-torque servos at once and is meant for giant scale applications. Finally, the unit is equipped with an externally mounted ON/OFF switch that is failsafe, meaning, if it fails, the unit comes ON, not OFF. I'll disclose more details later on.

Greg Covey

Here is what Mike McConville says about the new Hangar 9 Edge 540.

Harley Licht

Hi Greg,

You can't go wrong with the 84/8611s.
Great servos with a great track record.

I will be watching your progress with interest.

Harley

Greg Covey

My indoctrination to giant scale planes started with the initial shock that none of the hardware is included with the ARF kit. An error in the Edge 540 manual had me puzzled at first because the hardware was labeled "Additional Required Tools and Adhesives".

The hardware needed is significant and amounts to an additional $150. Hangar 9 provides this in a convenient [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN1220]1/3 Scale Hardware Package[/link] at Horizon Hobby.

Here are the kit contents:

HD 1/2 Servo Arm 4-40: JR (8) HAN3574
3D XL 1/2 Servo Arm 4-40: JR (1) HAN3578
8-32 Swivel Clevis Horn (4) HAN3614
4-40 x 4-40 HD Ball Link (5) HAN3616
Tailwheel, Lg Haigh 12-22 lb (1) OHI160
Super Hinge Points (4) ROB309
Dura-Collars, 3/16" (1) DUB141
Axle Shafts, 3/16 x 2" (1) DUB249
Fuel Tank, 32oz (1) DUB690
Pro-Lite Wheels, 3-1/2" (1) HAN308
Titanium Pro-Links 4-40 x 2-1/2" (1) HAN3552
Titanium Pro-Links 4-40 x 3-1/2" (1) HAN3554
Titanium Pro-Links 4-40 x 4-1/2" (1) HAN3556

Greg Covey

The manual for the Edge 540 appears to be well written. It really harps on issues that are important for building and setting up giant scale models so i'll promote them along the way as well.

I have everything I need now so I will start building this weekend. I expect a fast build as all the tough, time-consuming tasks are already done in the ARF design.

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Directed? By who? Matchboxes are just something else to fail. Hitec 5945, or maybe the new titanium geared servo, used with the programmer (if needed for your setup) is the way to go, IMO.

WILDMAN 420

My Feedback: (1)

Hi guys,
This looks like a great thread, i am very very new to the electric scene, and i really don't know much about it yet. If weight is going to be an issue for this plane you could always lighten it by over a pound by using Carbon fiber landing gear tail gear and wing a stab tubes, it would likely save almost 2 pounds, just a thought.

3dandpatternflyer

I've heard of so many people using that servo where it just locks up. Even the moderators can't say anything about it on their own website. www.hitecrcd.com

TTYL, Andrew T.

Greg Covey

Andrew,

I have Hitec HS-5645MG Digital servos that will be diverted to another conversion project on the 1.20-size Laser 200 from Seagull Models. I have not heard anything bad about the Hitec servos as you mentioned but I also have no experience with them myself...yet.

Wildman,

Welcome to the electric scene! The Hangar 9 Edge 540 gear mains are already carbon fiber painted white. The main wing bar is aluminum and weighs 11.4oz with the horizontal stabilizer bar. This seems fine from my perspective.

P-51B,

You ask some odd questions for a guy that won't reveal his true identity. It makes me wonder.

As a writer, I work for the editor and publisher. In this case, it is Erick Royer of RCU. Erick properly reminded me that in giant scale planes, safety must always come first! For the Hangar 9 Edge 540, the manufacturer recommends several radio and servo systems from JR. Of course, both of these brands are distributed by Horizon Hobby so this is no surprise. For the review part of my project, I need to follow the manufacturers recommendations. This is a common courtesy. For the electric conversion part, including the power system design, this is where my reputation is on the line and I have the freedom to choose my own components.

As for the MatchBoxes, when using multiple digital servos on a single control surface, tremendous current draw can result if they are not perfectly balanced. The MatchBox synchronizes neutral, direction, and end-points for up to 4 servos in parallel. Additionally, the matchbox servos can be powered through the receiver or a seperate battery pack providing flexibility in designing redundancy. I will use a JRPA900 MatchBox on each wing half and a third one on the elevator halves.

Greg Covey

The Edge 540 assembly begins with the aileron servos in the wing. I added 12" and 24" extensions to two sets of DS8411 servos.

The two ailerons were then glued in place. I used Robart (309) Super Hinge Points since the Edge was pre-drilled to accept these hinges and Elmers ProBond since it is easy to use, easy to clean, and, expands as it dries for a solid joint. The manual recommends using 30-minute epoxy.

Standard Hangar 9 hardware for giant scale planes was used for the linkage. I had a problem with the fit of the 1/2 Servo Arm on the DS8411 servo. It seemed a bit small but I forced it into position and screwed it in place.
[ul][*] HAN3574 HD 1/2 Servo Arm 4-40 JR[*] HAN3614 8-32 Swivel Clevis Horn[*] HAN3556 Titanium Pro-Links[*] HAN3616 4-40 HD Ball Links
[/ul]

The JRPA900 Matchbox was used to super fine tune the servo offset after first aligning it physically. The programing was simple using a tiny screwdriver and pushbuttons.

The manual recommends using one MatchBox per wing half but I am currently questioning that issue. I want to use a single MatchBox for all 4 aileron servos.

Greg Covey

The sequence of the ball link assembly in the manual didn't match the diagram or the picture so I suspect an error here. I followed the picture and diagram.

The wing hinge gaps must be sealed on giant scale planes. I used thick clear shipping tape on both sides instead of the recommended clear UltraCote. I kept the tape in the "V" area only.

Greg Covey

I decided to jump from the manual sequence of tail assembly to my favorite part of mounting the motor.

The Jeti 77-amp Opto ESC comes with mating connectors that I soldered onto my Actro 40 motor. I will keep the leads as short as possible since I intend to have peak currents from 70-80amps. This means that my Kokam 10s2p 4.2AH pack will be re-wired a bit to reduce lead length and connector count. I'll post on this later.

I measured the distance from the front of the motor mount box to the front of the installed cowl to be 8". My first attempt to mount the motor is below. I will most likely abandon this approach since it may not be sufficiently strong. I was planning to use the 3.75" AXI motor mount and a piece of 1/4" plywood to act as a go-between since the AXI face plate was too small for the Actro motor. Although the parts are simple to obtain, the distance measured 8", and, it was easy to assemble, the concern is with the strength of the AXI mount.

To meet my strength goal, each section of the mount from the motor to the firewall must be a larger diameter than the previous section. I will try another attempt using 3" PVC pipe. I may also try an end cap and flange after I visit my local home improvement store.

Darrell B.

Greg,
I lile the looks of your motormount! Looks Great!
Keep up the good work.
Darrell

fbw4

This is an Awesome project! I heavily considered this plane myself after hearing about Steve Rojecki's Edge out performing the glow version at Joe Nall! I am also concerned about the CG issue. My 1/3 scale electric has a 120oz power system all the way up in the noise and I built the motor box out as far as I could.

Any chance of you coming to the Arizona Electric Festival in January? I am coordinating the demos an would love to add this bird to the list.

fbw4

This is how I pushed my motor out to the right distance on my Sundancer, might work for you in this case.[/img]

Greg Covey

Hi Frank,

Thanks for the alternative technique! As usual, you make things look like a real work of art. Not sure about the AEF in January but it would be a welcome break from the freezing cold here in upstate, NY. I'll let you know.

I decided on a less labor intensive approach as I am far from being craftsman-like.

I used a 3" to 4" PVC adapter instead of the box AXI mount. This is much stronger and only costs about $2 at your local home improvement store. The assembly is held in place by three 1/4"x5" hex carriage bolts from plywood wall to plywood wall.

Darrell B.

Greg,
That is a great idea! How did you measure this assembly to account for the right and down thrust so that your spinner will line up with your coweling? You may not be craftsman like, but this is an ingenieus idea! Keep up the great work. I have finally started on my Mustang ARF. I am in the process of hinging ailerons, and flaps.

Good Work,
Darrell Button

Greg Covey

Darrell,

Thanks, most of my ideas are inspired by a lack of craftsmanship and the desire to give readers a simple plan to follow. I learned about the benefits of PVC from a long-time R/Cer in Buffalo, NY.

The thrust angles are already built into the Edge 540 motor mount box. The photo doesn't clearly show them but Hangar 9 did a great job on this plane design. The spinner opening is centered on the motor mount box but not the stock hole opening for the gas engine. I simply use it to pass my ESC through to the battery pack.

I'll be drilling holes in the motor mount box next for air cooling the ESC and batteries. The cowl will not need any cutting or drilling...even the mounting holes are pre-drilled with t-nuts on the fuselage ears.

It looks like another motor can be used if the Actro 40-4 doesn't work out. Hobby Lobby will be selling a monster-sized PJS 8000 for giant-scale planes spinning a 23" prop!