Kadet Sr. ARF to elec
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I have a Senior ARF which I would like to covert to elec. I'm sure that somewhere in this forum there is info on doing this, I just can't seem to find it. Would appreciate help. Thanks
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You picked a good plane to start on. I used a axi 4120-18 with a 5s3p 6000 mah pac. get 20 t0 30 min. of touch and goes and low passes per charge. I fly all kinds of planes and helis but find this ship to be real fun time. I switched it over to a tail dragger as the tri. gear is a little soft and I needed a way to stick the bat in from the front. Used a sig al gear for a 4star 120 and cut a hole in the firewall for the bat to be slid in . Don't have to remove the wing to charge and remove bat.
Run a 14/10apc and pull 43 amps max. Motor is cold and bat never get over 100 degrees, but I fly low and slow.
Al
Run a 14/10apc and pull 43 amps max. Motor is cold and bat never get over 100 degrees, but I fly low and slow.
Al
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Thanks Al, I have also made my Sr. arf into a tail dragger using a 4* 120 al gear. So will get started on the rest. Will let you know how it goes.
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ORIGINAL: VODOOFIXER
You picked a good plane to start on. I used a axi 4120-18 with a 5s3p 6000 mah pac. get 20 t0 30 min. of touch and goes and low passes per charge. I fly all kinds of planes and helis but find this ship to be real fun time. I switched it over to a tail dragger as the tri. gear is a little soft and I needed a way to stick the bat in from the front. Used a sig al gear for a 4star 120 and cut a hole in the firewall for the bat to be slid in . Don't have to remove the wing to charge and remove bat.
Run a 14/10apc and pull 43 amps max. Motor is cold and bat never get over 100 degrees, but I fly low and slow.
Al
You picked a good plane to start on. I used a axi 4120-18 with a 5s3p 6000 mah pac. get 20 t0 30 min. of touch and goes and low passes per charge. I fly all kinds of planes and helis but find this ship to be real fun time. I switched it over to a tail dragger as the tri. gear is a little soft and I needed a way to stick the bat in from the front. Used a sig al gear for a 4star 120 and cut a hole in the firewall for the bat to be slid in . Don't have to remove the wing to charge and remove bat.
Run a 14/10apc and pull 43 amps max. Motor is cold and bat never get over 100 degrees, but I fly low and slow.
Al
I am trying to decide between using the 4120-18 and the 4130-16, so I was wondering, what type of vertical performance your setup provides?
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Well P-51B the vertical is very good, pull straight up and it will stop after a good gain. But you must rember this is trainer type ship. Of course more power is always better but at a cost in $ and weight.
If I were starting over knowing what I know now I would go for the 4130 just because. I got the 4120 from a local who was not going to use it. He went the Hacker way. I love the way this thing flies. In fact I've picked up another 4120 to install on my new Custom Privateer.
So I would say either way you will be very happy with the Kadet SR and 4120 or 4130.
Thanks for your interest
Al
If I were starting over knowing what I know now I would go for the 4130 just because. I got the 4120 from a local who was not going to use it. He went the Hacker way. I love the way this thing flies. In fact I've picked up another 4120 to install on my new Custom Privateer.
So I would say either way you will be very happy with the Kadet SR and 4120 or 4130.
Thanks for your interest
Al
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In the Feb. 2005 issue of model Airplane in Pilot Projects on page 18, a guy converted his Senior to electric, doesn't say much, but he used a Axi 4120/18 with a 13X6.5 prop, nothing mentioned about the batt. but he says he gets 20 min full throttle, and 25 min at cruising speed.
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Thanks, I did see the piece, you are, right not a whole lot of info. Have gone with VOODOO fixers suggestions, sounded good.
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Cost is the same so I'd go with 4130/20. It pulls my U-Can-Do straight up at half throttle with a 9S pack and APC 19 X 8 E prop. I get about 15-18 minutes of easy flying combined with a half dozen out-o-site verticles. You should get 30 to 40 min. of easy Kadet flying on a 6S3P pack.
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I run an AXI 4130-16 in my KSA with APC-E 18 X 10 prop and 16 GP3300 Nihm's , 18 SCR2600 and 2 TP4200 packs gives you power to spare and makes it a fun plane. On vertical performance only with the TP can you get true vertical. but the 3300's with give you 12 min of flight, 2600's will be 8 to 9 and the TP 20 min.
MH
MH
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A10flyr,
Going from a 9S to a 6S LiPoly pack will put a serious hit on the power output of the plane. You've cut Volts by 1/3, and Amps by the same amount. That leaves you with 44% of the power you had previously. Flight times will be tremendously long, though. To get some of that power back, you'd have to run a much larger prop.
The 4120/18 or 4130/16 would be a better match for a 6S LiPoly pack. At least you wouldn't have to drive a 23" prop to get enough power to fly the plane
Going from a 9S to a 6S LiPoly pack will put a serious hit on the power output of the plane. You've cut Volts by 1/3, and Amps by the same amount. That leaves you with 44% of the power you had previously. Flight times will be tremendously long, though. To get some of that power back, you'd have to run a much larger prop.
The 4120/18 or 4130/16 would be a better match for a 6S LiPoly pack. At least you wouldn't have to drive a 23" prop to get enough power to fly the plane
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Hi, I'm interested in doing this conversion. Does anyone have the airframe and air foil specifications handy (for Motocalc). I'd like to play around with the various configurations.
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ORIGINAL: Matt Kirsch
A10flyr,
Going from a 9S to a 6S LiPoly pack will put a serious hit on the power output of the plane. You've cut Volts by 1/3, and Amps by the same amount. That leaves you with 44% of the power you had previously. Flight times will be tremendously long, though. To get some of that power back, you'd have to run a much larger prop.
The 4120/18 or 4130/16 would be a better match for a 6S LiPoly pack. At least you wouldn't have to drive a 23" prop to get enough power to fly the plane
A10flyr,
Going from a 9S to a 6S LiPoly pack will put a serious hit on the power output of the plane. You've cut Volts by 1/3, and Amps by the same amount. That leaves you with 44% of the power you had previously. Flight times will be tremendously long, though. To get some of that power back, you'd have to run a much larger prop.
The 4120/18 or 4130/16 would be a better match for a 6S LiPoly pack. At least you wouldn't have to drive a 23" prop to get enough power to fly the plane
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Matt;
Absolutly correct!! But I was under the impression that taking 1/3rd of the voltage would take 1/3rd of the horse power, IE. 1/3rd of the pull. I did go from 9S2P to 6S3P without changing anything else. It will still hover but will not pull verticle. Have to just flop out of hover to forward flight. Will try a larger prop today. All I have is big Zinger props tho. I'd like to try an APC E prop in larger size.
We want to drive a 13X13 4 bladed APC to put in the front of the nacelles of an A-10. What AXI do you suggest?
Hey there Bart! Yup, it's the 60 size. I have one with an old OS 77 ducted fan engine on it and and every one says the E powered one is faster on acelleration with the 9S configuration.
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I got the following numbers from Motocalc. What do you guys think?
TP 5S4P 8000mah
AXI 4130/16
APC 17x10 prop
Current: 39.3A
Static Thrust: 110 ounces at full power
My Altitude: 5000 Feet
Runtime: 25 to 30 minutes at 75% power
All up weight: 136 ounces
With a 16x10 prop you get another five minutes of flight time and about 96 ounces of thrust. Still plenty for sport flying I would think.
TP 5S4P 8000mah
AXI 4130/16
APC 17x10 prop
Current: 39.3A
Static Thrust: 110 ounces at full power
My Altitude: 5000 Feet
Runtime: 25 to 30 minutes at 75% power
All up weight: 136 ounces
With a 16x10 prop you get another five minutes of flight time and about 96 ounces of thrust. Still plenty for sport flying I would think.
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I probably posted in the wrong forum before, but I'm looking at a similar conversion, being new to RC planes Im not sure I have the correct setup, been told already that I need more Battery. I want something that will fly as good as it would, or better that with the .40 I had planed on using, let me know what you think, thanks.
I'm new to RC planes although I had a Sig Kadet Senior 80% built for eight years, afraid to finish it, then I'd crash it after all that work! Well I decided to get a Areobird Challenger about a month ago. I know it's not like a real trainer, but figured I could get some time in and move up.
My question is on glow vs. electric I'd really like to fly electric, I know that if done correctly the electrics can do as well, maybe better than the nitro. I started doing some research here on the forums, and on other sites. Again being a beginner, I might be putting things together incorrectly, but when it comes to electrifying the bigger planes like my Kadet it looks like to get good performance it takes $$$$$ over glow. I was looking into converting my Kadet to electric and wanted it to fly as well as with the .40 or better. I started looking up the pieces I thought might get me there, I think it would cost me $200-$300 more not including a good charger. Below is a list of that I thought would be close to what I needed. Take a look and let me know what you think, and let me know if there's a better way to go and still get performance for less $$$. I also live at 5000' not sure about props!!!
Motor
AXI 4120/18
Jeti/Hacker 40-3P BEC ESC
Thunder Power 3200 mAh, 3 cells (11.1V)
Prop
13/6.5 APC
Again, I'm new, not sure what I'm doing, that's why I'm putting this out to you guys, I've seen some great stuff in these forums, let me know, thanks!
I'm new to RC planes although I had a Sig Kadet Senior 80% built for eight years, afraid to finish it, then I'd crash it after all that work! Well I decided to get a Areobird Challenger about a month ago. I know it's not like a real trainer, but figured I could get some time in and move up.
My question is on glow vs. electric I'd really like to fly electric, I know that if done correctly the electrics can do as well, maybe better than the nitro. I started doing some research here on the forums, and on other sites. Again being a beginner, I might be putting things together incorrectly, but when it comes to electrifying the bigger planes like my Kadet it looks like to get good performance it takes $$$$$ over glow. I was looking into converting my Kadet to electric and wanted it to fly as well as with the .40 or better. I started looking up the pieces I thought might get me there, I think it would cost me $200-$300 more not including a good charger. Below is a list of that I thought would be close to what I needed. Take a look and let me know what you think, and let me know if there's a better way to go and still get performance for less $$$. I also live at 5000' not sure about props!!!
Motor
AXI 4120/18
Jeti/Hacker 40-3P BEC ESC
Thunder Power 3200 mAh, 3 cells (11.1V)
Prop
13/6.5 APC
Again, I'm new, not sure what I'm doing, that's why I'm putting this out to you guys, I've seen some great stuff in these forums, let me know, thanks!
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Thanks for the input guys. I ordered the 4130-16 last night. It will be a while before collect all the other bits due to other expenditures at the moment.
I ended up going with the 4130 because of some of the input here, and also, it seems like it has some other applications down the road...as shown by the H-9 corsair conversion on here, and the H-9 mustang conversions I have read about.
I ended up going with the 4130 because of some of the input here, and also, it seems like it has some other applications down the road...as shown by the H-9 corsair conversion on here, and the H-9 mustang conversions I have read about.
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Guys,
Here is a thread on another forum with a conversion. A guy did a nice job of putting one on floats.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233468
Here is a thread on another forum with a conversion. A guy did a nice job of putting one on floats.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233468
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I consulted with VOODOOFIXER of an earlier post. Using a 6000 mha li-pol, he cut a hole below the motor mount, and the frame behind that and formed a support to carry the batt. I did the same and it worked good. The batt sticks out ahead of the firewall alittle bit so you have access to the plugs. You will also have to modify the cowl. I leave the batt. in all the time.
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4130/16 is what I use on 8lbs planes, at-6 and P-51, and P-40 in the future.
6S2P Irate 2200 aoc 15*10 30 to 35A static. I could use a 16*10, but I don't need it for realistic flights.
Besides, this motor does not like to be overloaded (problems with magnets or wires).
Under this configuration, that's a great motor! [8D]
6S2P Irate 2200 aoc 15*10 30 to 35A static. I could use a 16*10, but I don't need it for realistic flights.
Besides, this motor does not like to be overloaded (problems with magnets or wires).
Under this configuration, that's a great motor! [8D]