w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The reason for the sharp cam lobes is that the lifter (Tappits) are the mushroom type.

Look at the cam followers and make sure they are smooth on the mating surface also?

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

The tappits or I would say rounded, the reason I say this is the cam lobes have a well worn groove cut in them. I was reading the Saito post and he states to change the tappits when installing a new cam. Went back to Horizon web site and what they show is adjustable tappits for $23.00 a piece. did not find any tappits for a 180. Are the tappets the same as a 120

Lightspeed1551

My Feedback: (4)

With all due respect to the sellers on this site, NEVER run a used engine with out replacing the bearings!

P.S.  Ebay is a good source for parts.

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

I agree, if you sold something and stated as is. But when you sell something and state ready to fly, them it's a horse of a different color. But as I stated I brought engine right so I will eat and fix

Lightspeed1551

My Feedback: (4)

Regardless of the sellers status the motor should be taken apart checked for play and internal damage.  It's cheper to suspect the bearings then it is to replace engine components damaged buy bits of shredded steel floating around, OR a whole plane because the engine seizes at a less then opportune moment (like say a low altitude hover).

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

120s, 150s, and 180 tappits are all the same

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks again sir

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Bob, that just happens. They let go for no visible reason.

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

My first, and to say it went is a under statement

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've bought several used engines that had bad bearings

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

I have brought several off of RCU and hit one bad and I guess one that was just worn out. Will use a little hind site and just put a set of bearing in the next one. I truly appriciate all of your help

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

I am ready to learn, what is the trick to putting the keepers back on the valves

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

PUTTING KEEPERS ON THE VALVES

Put a screw driver in a vice with the handle sticking up so you can set the cylinder down over the screw driver handle. This is to hold the valves shut.

If desired, put a clear plastic bag over the head and work inside the plastic bag so if the keeper goes flying, the keeper stays in the bag.

Push down on the spring. and spring plate with a small ignition wrench to expose the groove for the keys. Drop the keys down in the recess, then let go of some of your pressure on the plate so it will swallow the keepers up tight against the valve stem.

Loopman

My Feedback: (195)

I guess that I have to chime in here, being the one who sold this Saito 1.80 to "Bob62". I bought the engine second hand and without the identification plate on the side of the case indicating whether it was a 1.80 or a 1.50. It was sold to me as a 1.80. But, I had run the engine on my plane and I had checked the cam and the tappets and they appeared WNL. I also checked the bearings and as an added piece of insurance had them checked by an individual with many years of engine experience. The bearings were good and overall the engine had no mechanical issues. I ran the engine maybe a dozen times and it was run on "Pro Pattern 20/20" I'm sure that the fuel was not an issue. It sounds to me that the engine was run lean, which lead to its demise. I am not a "horse trader" as the items I have sold have all been from personal use. I must say with all common decency and in respect to RCU's policies, I am somewhat saddened by the comments that have been made here and the use of my actual name. I would never have done this to anyone and I do not feel I deserve to have been re-proached in such a manner.

Respectfully

Loopman [:@]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

This is what Bob had to say the other day

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

We got them, thanks again. Bob

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

We will send you a personal e-mail, it seems that I type to slow for RCU

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

We were ask how we determined that it was a Saito 150 and not a Saito 180 with not having a piston to compare with. They are called Digital Calipers, a hobby mans right hand tool. Post is complete

LACity Limits

Hi Bob62,
I'm new to the site but have been reading this post with interest. I too have a Saito 1.80, or I believe it's a 1.80. My question is where did you find the specs on the piston to verify that it is a 1.50 piston and not a 1.80?

Thanks

LA

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://saito-engines.info/

http://saito-engines.info/specifications.html

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

LA, Jim is right on, that is where we got the specs.

Bullseye52

My Feedback: (15)

Guys,
Thanks for the directions to that Saito website, it gives me the needed specs to proceed.

LA

jknox

w8ye, Regarding cam timing following bearing replacement, I have found it quite difficult to ensure that the correct teeth mesh consistently as the cam assembly is lowered onto the case. In your opinion, is it an accurate confirmation to view the engine from behind with the backplate and lifter covers removed and see that the lifters have risen an equal amount as the pin reaches the 12:00 position. Or, in other words, can the eye detect a one tooth deviance using this method?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've tried this and you cannot tell by eye. You would need a digital depth gauge.

On the Saito 150, 180, & 220, I use a Exacto blade jammed in the gear teeth next to the cam cover when inserting the com cover on the crankcase to insure that the gear does not move when inserting.

As you say - after the cam is installed there no way to tell other than observing the valve train farther up.

One way is to measure the lifter height and you would have to measure them at TDC and then spin the crank one full turn and measure them again to make sure that you are measuring at the overlap interval.

Remember that overlap interval center point should be about 5 degrees before TDC.

You can assemble the rest of the engine and check yourself.

On the overlap stroke and at 5 degrees before top dead center, the rocker arms should be parallel with each other across their tops. One valve will be almost closed and the other almost open.

Also, you should be able to blow through the muffler and out through an open carburetor.

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

You can also put a little extra black molly grease in cam box to keep gear from moving