I have a new YS 63 4 stroke. After fighting it for a while I got it to run by opening the pump screw 1/2 turn. Now it's all out of wack again. I have run about 50 oz of fuel through it so far. It wants to start at minimum throttle only, then it seems to load up and die at mid and high rpm. The needle is right, but it still loads up. The low end needle is at about 1 1/4 turns from fully seated. I have tried to reset the pump, but I need more info.

Is there any place I can read up on how to set this pump correctly, how to set it back to a "factory" position, or any other info on the pump?????

I have finished my plane and I am getting desperate to fly it!!!! Any help would be great.

If it is loading up in the midrange, you need to screw the brass regulator screw in to lean the midrange. Get it running about 3-4K, and listen. If it slows and loads up, the regulator is too rich. If it speeds up it is too lean and the regulator needs to be screwed out.

The "stock" position is the head of the brass regulator screw just flush with the aluminum case.

Remember, the brass screw isn't a pump, it's just a pressure regulator.

Hay ChuckAuger, thanks for responding. You helped me before. Thanks again. When I first started running it, I had to open the regulator 1/2 turn to make it run. Now it's loading up, so I guess I will have to start going back in with it.

How long does it take for these YS engines to settle in? I have never run one. I have run almost everything else out there for the past 18 years, but this is different.

One last thing......What process is used to set the three parts..LOW NEEDLE..HIGH NEEDLE...and REGULATOR? I think the low is about right, but wont the high needle and the regulator interact a lot with one another?? Thanks again for your help.

I get mine running top end first. But I've never had to turn the regulator more than 1/4 turn or so.

If I were in your shoes, I'd set the brass screw back flush, fire it up, set the top end, back off to 3500RPM, listen to the midrange, adjust as needed, re-set the top end, then set the idle.

The YS is much different than other motors because of the pressurized system. On the older YS's 4 and 2 strokes, the regulator was the low end. On the newer YS starting with the generation 2 53 4s, a low end needle was added which negated the adjusting of the reg for the most part.
As chuck stated, start with the reg flush with the engine and you should not have to turn it in more than 1/4 turn. The regulator primarily affects the midrange of which the low end relies upon. The top end is independent.
The key to a sweet YS is the tank setup. Make it as simple as possible with NO air leaks. It will let you know in a heartbeat if there's a leak. Believe in the motor when it tells you that....

Try http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/factsheets/ys_engines.php

I hope this Helps
Dirk

I noticed this part and remembered when I started with my 63FZ , The low end needle is a airbleed, the more you screw it in the richer it gets, Backing the screw out will lean up the low end and I too agree to start with the reg flush with the engine. Also it will be hard to get a good setting with less than 20% nitro, YS loves the stuff. When you do get it in the air keep it a little rich for the first 10 or so flights, I started to lean it one klick on the 7th flight and one each flight after that. With the 63FZ one click is plenty. These are sensitive engines when it comes to the needle valves.

Hope this helps
Dauntae

Thanks guys. FYI.... I run a 25/20 all synthetic fuel from Ritch's Brew in Houston, Tx and I did know about the backword air bleed setting. I'm glad that so many people remind me of that, cause some people don't know that. Every time it's posted, I'm sure someone out there learns something. Thanks again for all the help. I start my vacation on Saturday, so I will be running the soup out of this engine next week. I'll get it right, or die trying!!!!

If you can get ahold of some different fuel, you might try that. I've seen a great variation in the amount of success people have had using Ritches Brew.

What do you mean? I have run this fuel for almost 6 years now, with great results. All fuels are different, this is true, but what have you seen as "problems" with Ritches Brew?

I like the stuff, and have not had good luck with the PowerMaster 20/20 blend. I hate Byron fuels too!!!

2fast4u,
You just answered your own question with your findings about Powermaster. Some people have good luck with it, some don't. Some people swear by Byrons, some swear at it. Just for grins and giggles, you might want to try a gallon of a different brand fuel to run through your YS. Your particular engine may not like Ritches Brew for some odd reason.

John

Thanks JWN, that was exactly what I meant.

I had never thought about that. I have used my Ritches Brew to prove that someone else had "bad fuel". I guess I never thought about "MY" fuel being less than perfect!! HA!! LOL!! I'm gonna try these other set up steps before I switch, but I WILL switch if I need to.

That's the ticket..that's why I didn't want to bash Ritches, I know some people who love it, I've run the 10% sport fuel (won it at a fun fly) and it worked fine, just not readily available.

Point was, to keep an open mind to everything that may be causing you grief. You seem to have a handle on that aspect. And by all means try to re-adjust before switching fuels, but if you follow the instructions layed out in this thread and still have trouble, a simple fuel swap might be the answer.

I concur on the fuel! Here in so cal we have Performance Plus. I prefer it's YS 20/20 blend over the Powermaster blend. But you must consider the #2 rule in RC which is:
Always use the same fuel! The motor will get used to the mixture once you have it dialed in. Fortunately you will find the YS needs less tweeking if you change fuel. Unfortunately you will find that the YS loves a higher nitro content! They love 30% heli blend but your pocketbook wont....