blw

My Feedback: (3)

C'mon, be serious before this thread gets out of hand. I'm not spreading myths. The current manual specifies either a 10-15% nitro fuel with 20% oil, or CoolPower and Omega as next best. Other fuels are mentioned. CP is all synthetic. Omega is a blend of synthetic and castor. No myths. Straight from the current Saito manual.

I've got some high time Saitos that ran only with some percentage of castor and they look like your CP pics. Honest.

1QwkSport2.5r

blw - I'm with ya. I think 4 of the 6 pages of this thread are off topic anyway. I admit some of that is partly my fault.

I'm done here.

Sport_Pilot

Synthetics haven't changed since the 60's, except for one or two made and sold in Europe.

Sport_Pilot

I said that they make a good afterun oil precicely because they do asorb water. But they make a bad long term storage oil for the same reason. They are not that hygroscopic compared to methanol and will protect the engine from week to week. If it were bad then my engines would rust. I have seen many examples of oil added to wet engines and other wet steel products and they will trap the water and cause rust. But if the part is dried out first it will protect them better than PAG oils. So PAG oils for afterun and petroleum for storage. BTW only PAG for YS engines even for long term storage.

Yes thousands of modelers can be wrong. Clarence Lee recommended regular MMO for years even for long term storage, his prior recommendation was 3 in 1. Thousands of modelers used his recomendation and I suffered some stuck and somewhat rusty engines from his recomendation. The 3 in 1 and untreated castor oil run engines were fine. BTW castor oil will adaorb water as well as PAG. Neither will adsorb that much.

TimBle

BS

Sport_Pilot

I should have said they havent' change much. The synthetics are various water soluble PAG oils such as UCON. And only the formulations and viscositieshave changed. We do not use the increasing number of other synthetics because they will not mix with alcohol.

jessiej

Either I do something brilliant that enables me to avoid problems when running castor, or those who have problems are doing something wrong.

I prefer to believe in my brilliance. Therefore the rest of you guys have work to do

Jess

TimBle

Even thos have changed. PAG's are not a specific molecule but a family of molecules. Positioning the Alkylated groups plays a BIG part in the performance of the molecules.

Sport_Pilot

Yes which is why some of them have thicker oils. Yet Cool Power seems to be the same crappy fuel it was in the 70's..

blw

My Feedback: (3)

We know you are brilliant, Jess. You must be an Auburn fan for sure.

To be honest, a lot of the castor horror pictures make think of it being from too much castor, and of those engines that are tuned only by making sure they leave a big smoke trail. Guaranteed that if you see a Saito running with much smoke it is tuned far too rich, yet you see them run that way all the time.

SrTelemaster150

You guys quit telling BS horror stories about Cool Power & I will lay off the castor. If Cool Power was not an appropriate fuel for Saito engines they wouldn't specify it.

BTW: If you think castor oil will save an engine from a lean run you have another think comming.

I am rebuilding a Saito FA450R3D engine that appears to have been run hot on castor & the case is full of brown clumps of castor varnish as well as chunks of the cylinder skirts & what's left of the plastic crankpin spacer.

All of the cylinders & pistons are detroyed & I'm replacing the main as well as the link rods that were beat up from shrapnel flying around in the case.

Tune the damned engine correctly & you don't need castor. Run it lean & castor won't save it. Better yet, if the engine is 1.00 or larger, convert to CDI & get rid of the antiquated glow ignition W/its volitile ignition timing!

TimBle

No thats why the VI differs!
viscosity may differ but its the VI thats affected by how the molecule is shaped.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Well, if you are going to run it that lean you need something better than oil.

1QwkSport2.5r

That engine was severely abused. There is no way in hell that any oil caused that damage. The operator was an idiot. Sorry.

SrTelemaster150

I didn't say it caused the damage I said it didn't save it.

Other than the brown clumps of castor in the case there was no discoloration on any of the parts.




My take is that the plastic pin spacer
failed (melted) & that knocked off an "E" clip. Those parts being knocked around did most of the damage getting wedged between the rods & the cylinder skirts. The link pin never shifted as there were no marks on the crank web. It didn't take long @ 6000 RPM for those pieces knocking around to do lots of damage.




Maybe it was run W/100% castor lube. It sure was a gummed up mess inside & it reeked of castor oil..

For the rebuild I'm using FA180 jugs W/FG57 pistons. The FG57 pistons bring the compression hieght on the 150 based bottom end to the same dimension as an FA180. Compression ratio would be 9.24:1 but I'm going to mill the deck .035" to bring CR up to 12.2:1. Displacement will be 5.12 cu in (84cc)

W/a 12mm FA220 Big bore carb & induction mods to the intake manifold & back plates as well as CDI lighting off 15% Cool Power @ (a stable) 35° BTC, it should make between 7 1/4 & 7 1/2 HP. (25% to 30% more HP than the FG84)

It should make over 50# of static thrust W/a 25 X 10 3 blade prop. That ought to be able to send my 25#ish TF GS FW190A5 straight up W/autority.

JKinTX

If you can actually get a GHQ to run, best be on SAE 70 oil and gasoline.
You forgot the Fox Rocket .09- crank runs direct in aluminum case as does the Gilbert .07 and .10 and the Cox (on the reedies, Olympic .15 excepted).

JKinTX

Running an engine that is designed for castor without it will destroy it in short order. Running ANY engine improperly on the wrong fuel mix and under the wrong conditions will do the same. So what you are saying is meaningless.
Sorry sir, but I have seen, owned, and had rebuilt far too many engines run on cheap RC "weed killer" fuel like Cool Power that were near ruined to believe anything you say.
Actually, the Johnson .33 S (as an example)WAS ruined although it looked new outside. It took a full chrome job on everything to bring it back and at the time that was a good chunk of change.

SrTelemaster150

For your information Saito engines are designed to run W/O castor oil & Cool Power is a recommended fuel so quit spewing you anti-Cool Power BS..

I've never had an engine (saito) problem W/Cool Power but I have had a cam lobe wiped out while running Byron 4-stroke fuel that contained castor oil.

Quite frankly, your posts are less than worthless in my opinion so just stow it.

JKinTX

AMEN...

JKinTX

To be polite- Your opinion is worth nearly as much as my late dog's toenail clippings are.

jessiej

Both castor and synthetic sometimes generate more heat than light.

Jess

JKinTX

Depends upon your point of view- ALL things are relative to the position of the observer.

1QwkSport2.5r

Is it remotely possible for you more steadfast engine officianados to get off the fuel/oil war and get back to the topic? I mean... You guys are not leading by a good example as a group of highly experienced people. Ya'll act like old married couples that bicker nonstop.

It's like "Grumpy old Men" R/C style.

SrTelemaster150

It takes a real JERK to come on here & call someone a liar. Especially when he contradicts hinmself right in black & white.

Some peolpe can grow a big set of balls when they are on the internet. Much bigger than what they would have face to face.

I'm done W/this thread! I'm sure just like in the past, my posts will be deleted while insulting JERKS will have theirs left alone. It has happened before.

JKinTX

Amen brother, testify! Brush up your spelling a tad tho! Hugs and loves!

JAK