Glow head brotherhood.
01-23-2014, 01:14 PM
#53
I will tell you now the needle valve isn't going to be an issue even if it leaks. If it does leak (my S29 with wire needle and collet leaks like a sieve even with the collet super snug) it will leak fuel out not air in. If an engine won't start and has good compression I'd be looking at how the transfers are popping open. If there is excessive leakage around the ring or front bearing you may have weak transfer flow. This wouldn't be the issue if the engine ran fine earlier in the day then all of the sudden starts running poorly or not at all. I suggest ensuring the backplate is sealed well whether with RTV silicone or a paper gasket. Then ensure (stupid to say but it's the process of elimination) the carb is sealed to the crankcase properly. Now pull the head off and rotate the engine over in normal rotation with your face right over the cylinder and note the "breeze" that comes from the transfer ports opening. I'm gonna guess it should be popping open good and it might be a fluke as to the engine not running.
What fuel, plug, prop, and fuel tank setup are you using?
What fuel, plug, prop, and fuel tank setup are you using?
01-23-2014, 01:24 PM
#54
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Count me in !! Nothing better than the sound of a glow engine screaming 12" above the runway. I currently have 15 planes ready to fly all2 stroke glow engines and an inventory of over 25 mostly new and used engines. Everything from supertigre's , os, gms, enya, magnum, evolution, and more. Sizes from .28 up thru 1.4. Hats would be cool !!
01-23-2014, 02:00 PM
#57
I guess I'm in. I started with electric in nimh days but went nitro as soon as I could afford it when I was about 12. Last year I wanted to give glow up for the usual reasons, noise, mess,tuning, parts and instalation then somehow I've collected more glow engines sense I desided I'd go electric/gas only and remembered those reasons are why I like glow.
Ive had every size from .020 to 1.80 2 and 4 stroke and every brand I can think of.
Right now now ive got
OS: 15fp, 40fp, 46LA, FX, AX .61FX
OS is my favorite but I've had them all, all cheap POS and all the good ones.
I like OS 2 strokes best and ThunderTiger 4 strokes best but either stroke of either brand is great.
Ive had every size from .020 to 1.80 2 and 4 stroke and every brand I can think of.
Right now now ive got
OS: 15fp, 40fp, 46LA, FX, AX .61FX
OS is my favorite but I've had them all, all cheap POS and all the good ones.
I like OS 2 strokes best and ThunderTiger 4 strokes best but either stroke of either brand is great.
01-23-2014, 02:07 PM
#59
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Sign me up - been buying R/C engines since 1964, and have sold a half dozen .049's, have about 40 engines including several NIB's from 70's. Not a collector, every engine had a plane in mind. Mostly Enya, ST, and OS. Maybe this thread will prod me into making a good list.
01-23-2014, 02:38 PM
#61
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Glow is the only way for my planes. I have glowfuel in my vanes. My three bombers are glow powered. OS .15CV's. Thanks to all the Leckies OS discontinued these engines. They are mine and they run like clockwork. The Brotherhood does not exist without me! All of my future planes have to be glow powered too. I have glow engines over 30 years old that run perfect. GLOW not electric. GLOW not gas. I use glow fuel as hand lotion. I cherish the smell! The taste! Glow engines are the answer, the best, the end all! If you dont use glow you are not good enough for it! The young RC texting generation is lost without glow, You can't handle it!
Repent now and buy a glow engine and learn to run it!
Repent now and buy a glow engine and learn to run it!
01-23-2014, 02:47 PM
#63
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[QUOTE=1QwkSport2.5r;11718506]I will tell you now the needle valve isn't going to be an issue even if it leaks. If it does leak (my S29 with wire needle and collet leaks like a sieve even with the collet super snug) it will leak fuel out not air in. If an engine won't start and has good compression I'd be looking at how the transfers are popping open. If there is excessive leakage around the ring or front bearing you may have weak transfer flow. This wouldn't be the issue if the engine ran fine earlier in the day then all of the sudden starts running poorly or not at all. I suggest ensuring the backplate is sealed well whether with RTV silicone or a paper gasket. Then ensure (stupid to say but it's the process of elimination) the carb is sealed to the crankcase properly. Now pull the head off and rotate the engine over in normal rotation with your face right over the cylinder and note the "breeze" that comes from the transfer ports opening. I'm gonna guess it should be popping open good and it might be a fluke as to the engine not running.
Actually, my first thought was a loose backplate. But it was tight, as was the head. Both have been replaced, new gasket on the backplate, the head doesn't have a gasket. The carb has been reset. No leaks anywhere.
Compression is good, I checked the ring and liner for marks, scoring, etc , none.
I didn't specifically check the transfer ports, but know they are open
Fuel is Byron, 15% Nitro, 20% oil mix...only stuff I will use
plug: normally a fox miracle plug. ran on it for years, and for 3 flights the day it died. Was replaced with OS 8 & F, K&B LONG, Tower 8, and anything else I had.. Makes no difference.
Fuel tank and lines, including muffler pressure were replaced in the plane, and a different set when i put it on the stand. No difference.
I normally hand start all my engines. I have tried a sullivan starter with no help and several types of glow drivers.
Actually, my first thought was a loose backplate. But it was tight, as was the head. Both have been replaced, new gasket on the backplate, the head doesn't have a gasket. The carb has been reset. No leaks anywhere.
Compression is good, I checked the ring and liner for marks, scoring, etc , none.
I didn't specifically check the transfer ports, but know they are open
Fuel is Byron, 15% Nitro, 20% oil mix...only stuff I will use
plug: normally a fox miracle plug. ran on it for years, and for 3 flights the day it died. Was replaced with OS 8 & F, K&B LONG, Tower 8, and anything else I had.. Makes no difference.
Fuel tank and lines, including muffler pressure were replaced in the plane, and a different set when i put it on the stand. No difference.
I normally hand start all my engines. I have tried a sullivan starter with no help and several types of glow drivers.
01-23-2014, 03:01 PM
#64
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Wow, I can't believe were up to 25 members just since last night. And they say glow is dying. Yeah right. This is living proof. I updated the list at the top of page 1. If I spelled your name wrong, send me a pm and I'll fix it. Does anyone know how other brotherhoods do it where they have the roster every couple of pages without having to retype it every time from the beginning? I know there's a way. So, I've been searching all over the hobby shops in Ct for FAI fuel for the ST G3250 with no luck and I didn't want to have to pay the outrageous HAZMAT fee to order it. Today I stopped at a little hole in the wall shop and low and behold, he has two cases of Byron's Aero FAI fuel at only $75 a case. Imagine that. Now I just need to build a bigger test stand and I can finally run it in. Yippee! I can't wait to fire that big ol beast up. Anyone have one of these?
01-23-2014, 03:07 PM
#65
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Glow is the only way for my planes. I have glowfuel in my vanes. My three bombers are glow powered. OS .15CV's. Thanks to all the Leckies OS discontinued these engines. They are mine and they run like clockwork. The Brotherhood does not exist without me! All of my future planes have to be glow powered too. I have glow engines over 30 years old that run perfect. GLOW not electric. GLOW not gas. I use glow fuel as hand lotion. I cherish the smell! The taste! Glow engines are the answer, the best, the end all! If you dont use glow you are not good enough for it! The young RC texting generation is lost without glow, You can't handle it!
Repent now and buy a glow engine and learn to run it!
Repent now and buy a glow engine and learn to run it!
01-23-2014, 03:56 PM
#69
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Well, I have to admit, I've only been flying for about 10 years,( I'm only 38) but I also took apart my first engine, a k&b 61, and couldn't believe how much there wasn't to it. Man that low speed needle gave me a hard time.
01-23-2014, 03:58 PM
#70
[QUOTE=Steve Percifield;11718609]
I didn't suggest the transfer ports are blocked. What I was suggesting is checking to make sure the crankcase is pressurizing to force the air fuel mixture up into the cylinder. If there is a weak seal at the front bearing or at the piston you will have weak gas passage when the piston opens the transfer ports. Something is faulty as it ran fine for 3 fights and the 4th it wouldn't start. Moving engine to test stand and still not getting a running engine with all the variables you changed tells me something is wrong with the engine. I suspect an air leak in the crankcase.
I will tell you now the needle valve isn't going to be an issue even if it leaks. If it does leak (my S29 with wire needle and collet leaks like a sieve even with the collet super snug) it will leak fuel out not air in. If an engine won't start and has good compression I'd be looking at how the transfers are popping open. If there is excessive leakage around the ring or front bearing you may have weak transfer flow. This wouldn't be the issue if the engine ran fine earlier in the day then all of the sudden starts running poorly or not at all. I suggest ensuring the backplate is sealed well whether with RTV silicone or a paper gasket. Then ensure (stupid to say but it's the process of elimination) the carb is sealed to the crankcase properly. Now pull the head off and rotate the engine over in normal rotation with your face right over the cylinder and note the "breeze" that comes from the transfer ports opening. I'm gonna guess it should be popping open good and it might be a fluke as to the engine not running.
Actually, my first thought was a loose backplate. But it was tight, as was the head. Both have been replaced, new gasket on the backplate, the head doesn't have a gasket. The carb has been reset. No leaks anywhere.
Compression is good, I checked the ring and liner for marks, scoring, etc , none.
I didn't specifically check the transfer ports, but know they are open
Fuel is Byron, 15% Nitro, 20% oil mix...only stuff I will use
plug: normally a fox miracle plug. ran on it for years, and for 3 flights the day it died. Was replaced with OS 8 & F, K&B LONG, Tower 8, and anything else I had.. Makes no difference.
Fuel tank and lines, including muffler pressure were replaced in the plane, and a different set when i put it on the stand. No difference.
I normally hand start all my engines. I have tried a sullivan starter with no help and several types of glow drivers.
Actually, my first thought was a loose backplate. But it was tight, as was the head. Both have been replaced, new gasket on the backplate, the head doesn't have a gasket. The carb has been reset. No leaks anywhere.
Compression is good, I checked the ring and liner for marks, scoring, etc , none.
I didn't specifically check the transfer ports, but know they are open
Fuel is Byron, 15% Nitro, 20% oil mix...only stuff I will use
plug: normally a fox miracle plug. ran on it for years, and for 3 flights the day it died. Was replaced with OS 8 & F, K&B LONG, Tower 8, and anything else I had.. Makes no difference.
Fuel tank and lines, including muffler pressure were replaced in the plane, and a different set when i put it on the stand. No difference.
I normally hand start all my engines. I have tried a sullivan starter with no help and several types of glow drivers.
01-23-2014, 05:25 PM
#73
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I had a supertigre and a evolution do me the same way. Started and run fine first couple of flights. Then would fire and die, choke it good, fire and die. On the evolution, the fuel tubing coming from the remote needle valve split on the fuel nozzle on the carb on the bottom side. Took me forever to figure it out. On the supertigre, for some unknown reason the the fuel nozzle cracked at the carb. I guess it had a flaw in it and when I refueled for another flight, I guess I made it worse. Both engines would try to start. But die due to sucking air. When you pulled the glow plug out, was it wet ?