Electric starter for OS 15LA
06-05-2016, 07:48 AM
#26
Some of the engine's cranks I have are I believe M5 and the others are 1/4-28. I'm mainly interested in he 1/4-28 .21-.28 engines currently, though I'd like to run the smaller .15-.20 engines with the (I believe) M5 cranks.
06-05-2016, 07:51 AM
#27
Hudy sells their break-in bench spanner nut as part number #104164, but cost ranges from $17-25. A Hong Kong retailer has it for about $17. I think I might try getting creative and making my own prop nut like I bored that Picco crank..
. No lathe needed necessarily.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 06-05-2016 at 08:01 AM.
06-05-2016, 07:54 AM
#28
I have M5, M6 and 1/4" 28 and the #12-32 which is used on the old OS ,15s. I get my Fora stuff from Yaro here. The nut is $6.25 http://aerohobby.ca/store/index.php?...products_id=81 You can PM me if you know exactly what you want. I think I still have some 5/8" stock left. I have just moved and things are a bit scattered and crowded.
06-05-2016, 08:02 AM
#29
I have M5, M6 and 1/4" 28 and the #12-32 which is used on the old OS ,15s. I get my Fora stuff from Yaro here. The nut is $6.25 http://aerohobby.ca/store/index.php?...products_id=81 You can PM me if you know exactly what you want. I think I still have some 5/8" stock left. I have just moved and things are a bit scattered and crowded.
06-05-2016, 08:17 AM
#31
06-06-2016, 08:07 PM
#32
I find my 15LA difficult to hand start. My electric starter cone is way too large for the engine's little prop nut. I tried a plastic spinner but the starter chews it up in just a few starts.
What are others doing? I'm thinking of making a custom insert for my starter to fit the prop nut out of a hockey puck. But there must be an easier way.
What are others doing? I'm thinking of making a custom insert for my starter to fit the prop nut out of a hockey puck. But there must be an easier way.
Yes there is an easier way. Consider either a Sullivan red S633 or the Yellow S634 silicon inserts for the standard starter cup.
https://www.sullivanproducts.com/Sta...sMainFrame.htm
John
06-10-2016, 06:18 AM
#34
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Hi!
I have made my own aluminum nuts and reversed the Sullivan blue silicon adapter when starting my small OS engines. Works great! The OS FP/LA .10-15 engines have a steel washer behind the drive washer so there is no problem using an electric starter.
I have made my own aluminum nuts and reversed the Sullivan blue silicon adapter when starting my small OS engines. Works great! The OS FP/LA .10-15 engines have a steel washer behind the drive washer so there is no problem using an electric starter.
Last edited by jaka; 06-13-2016 at 08:38 AM.
06-10-2016, 06:59 AM
#35
Just about all bushing engines I've had in my hands had a steel thrust washer behind the prop driver, but one engine I had would not hand start no matter what I did. (Another engine of the same exact model and size hand started easily with 2-3 flips). I used an electric starter on it and found the crankcase to wear slightly - just enough to turn the oil gray visible around the prop driver. For that reason I strongly shy away from using an electric starter on a bushing engine. I still have the problem engine, but I put it away for another time to mess with it. It was a small baffled .15. It seems the smaller the engine, the harder they are to flip start. I may fashion a spring starter for some of the little guys - much like the old Cox engines came with.
06-14-2016, 03:12 AM
#36
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I also hand crank my engines when at all possible, especially the bushed ones. I've only one LA series OS, a 40 that I bought used. It hand started cold only when I first got it and would not restart hot. Cold starting was very easy. I could not see any liner defect looking through the exhaust port but when head was removed it was shown to have badly peeled nickle plate on cylinder walls. Replacement of piston / cylinder gave a really easy hand starting engine, hot or cold.
06-14-2016, 06:45 PM
#37
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OK, I got it worked out. I purchased a new insert for my Tower Hobbies starter. I installed the insert upside down so the little hole faces outward. It engages the OS spinner nut perfectly. It seems that the hole in my old insert was worn and was too large.
The 15LA is a sweet engine. It throttles nicely, idles great, responds to the high-speed needle well, and seems powerful. The only problem I had with it was hand starting. As someone mentioned, that is probably due to the air bleed carb. I doesn't draw fuel well enough to hand start easily. With the electric starter I can hold my finger over the muffler hole and spin the prop until I see fuel move into the carb, then apply the glow starter and it starts right up.
By the way, there is a guy on eBay selling OS spinners with 5mm metric threads. I think OS has discontinued the part, but this guy still has stock.
The 15LA is a sweet engine. It throttles nicely, idles great, responds to the high-speed needle well, and seems powerful. The only problem I had with it was hand starting. As someone mentioned, that is probably due to the air bleed carb. I doesn't draw fuel well enough to hand start easily. With the electric starter I can hold my finger over the muffler hole and spin the prop until I see fuel move into the carb, then apply the glow starter and it starts right up.
By the way, there is a guy on eBay selling OS spinners with 5mm metric threads. I think OS has discontinued the part, but this guy still has stock.
