Webra .50 Alternative
#26

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From: Towson, MD
Sorry, Dr B,
Didn't mean to be so hard on you. Follow your instincts and get the Webra (or an MVVS), It is a very good engine. If ya really want to get the best and blow some bucks, get the Jett .46 because there is absolutely nothing better!
Max
Didn't mean to be so hard on you. Follow your instincts and get the Webra (or an MVVS), It is a very good engine. If ya really want to get the best and blow some bucks, get the Jett .46 because there is absolutely nothing better!
Max
#27
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From: Atlanta,
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No problem, Max. After overwhelmingly positive reviews of the Webra .50 (thanks, guys), it looks like the best way to go for 3D. I do have a place in my heart for fine German engineering, and the idea of something that is so well built really appeals to me. I just need to make sure I read up on how to break the thing in properly. It seems there are 2 schools of thought on this: the initial, 4stroke, "sloppy rich" method, and the "slightly rich" method. At this point, the later seems to make more sense to me, but I'll admit that I know very little about correct break in procedure. If anyone wants to put in their 2 cents worth, I'm open. Thanks again.
#28
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From: Fenton,
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Oh, one last thing...are pipes a good idea for a 3D? I've read "no," but wondered if anyone disagrees.
Actually, I don't like a lot of the higher preformance 2-cycle engines for that very same reason...too peaky. It's a personal thing, but I like a 4-cycle better for 3D....and really all flying.
That said, the Webra GT .50 and the GMS .47 (my previous recommendation) are pretty good engines. I've owned them both along with the O.S. .46 FX. I don't like the entire FX series of engines, but that's another story.
Wiz
#30
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DR,
Since the Webra is a tapered bore engine (ABN), the sloppy rich method is a no-no.
Read threads about break-in of such engines in old RCU and in Bill Baxter's OS support forum.
It is wrong and damaging to four-cycle such engine during break-in.
Slightly rich (+1/2-3/4 turn from peak RPM) for 15-30 minutes should be enough.
Then you can go full bore.
Only if you happen to fall upon a ringed Webra (it exists), should the four-cycle rich method be used.
The MVVS .49 is a better 3-D engine still.
Since the Webra is a tapered bore engine (ABN), the sloppy rich method is a no-no.
Read threads about break-in of such engines in old RCU and in Bill Baxter's OS support forum.
It is wrong and damaging to four-cycle such engine during break-in.
Slightly rich (+1/2-3/4 turn from peak RPM) for 15-30 minutes should be enough.
Then you can go full bore.
Only if you happen to fall upon a ringed Webra (it exists), should the four-cycle rich method be used.
The MVVS .49 is a better 3-D engine still.
#31
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From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
Hobbsy - you can get the weston at Hobby Lobby International, but you have to by that silly little ARF racer with it.
little info...
the west engines run on mini pipes due to their timing, any other engine useing the same pipe in the same 3D plane would be on a throttle pipe. These pipes are quite, powerful and give great throttle responce.
good choice on the Webra, great engine, and you got the choice to get the Wests piston and liner later
lol. no really the Speed 50 is a great engine.for me runnign in is all about what the engine will bo doing.. you have to run it in at the temps it will be opperating at ( or else the taper you run in will be wrong later )
for fast engines you run them full throttle back off a couple K by going rich. Funfly engines run at the same mixture setting but are allowed to idle back more often for longer.
of the engines i've had the ones ran in slobbery rich 4 stroking all the way tank after tank wear out much sooner and give less power than the ones done my new way.
i also run 100% synth fuel which helps speed up the break in process.
My West 50 and 36 were both flown on the break in run! best way to keep them at the opperating temp they will run at. I gave my latest Leo 37 one ground run to make sure it wouldn't cut, it's had about 10 flights now ( 5 mins each ) and it's fully leaned out
#32
I tried a Mac's pre tuned pipe system on my TT .46 (Magic Extra) for a little while, but didn't like the poor transition. I tried adjusting the needles till blue, and different plugs just to see, but the lack of proper throttle response for hovering, and low inverted stuff made me remove it. The plus was 14,000+ R.P.M. w/ a 12.25X3.75 APC on 10%, and rocket like vertical, but for the smooth control needed for low level, and peace of mind, I went to an Aquacraft (Tower) muffler, $13.99...Annother reason I took it off was I was afraid of over stressing the tail/control surfaces w/ the sometimes sudden surges of power. I mean that sucker would really get rippin' if I wasn't really careful...
#33
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From: Atlanta,
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How about some discussion of the Webra .50 vs the MVVS .49 in terms of torque, throttle response, and throttle setting stability? If 3D is all about hovering, these characteristics seem pretty important. Which of these motors provides more reliability in these categories? Ideal prop size for a 4 to 4.5 pound 3D? Should you go stock or aftermarket for the mufflers? Thanks.
#35
I'll 2nd that about the throttle response of the MVVS .49, and mine has an almost unbelieveably slow idle...On the test stand I briefly peaked it and saw 15,100 w/ an 11x5 MAS, admittedly, that was w/o any muffler though.
#36
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From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
gotta say my MVVS 40 with it's second chamber missing on a 12.25x3.75 idles like a lazy lawn mower and picks up like a beast. I don't think it'll ever wear out.
49's are very quick in Rapiers BTW
49's are very quick in Rapiers BTW
#37
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DR,
The MVVS #3248 tuned silencer adds about 2,000 RPM over the standard silencer.
For the price it is sold for, there is no aftermarket solution that will come close.
A dedicated Mac's tuned pipe will give you the same boost and costs 2-3 times as much.
It is also longer and more cumbersome.
The MVVS #3248 tuned silencer adds about 2,000 RPM over the standard silencer.
For the price it is sold for, there is no aftermarket solution that will come close.
A dedicated Mac's tuned pipe will give you the same boost and costs 2-3 times as much.
It is also longer and more cumbersome.
#38
Hi Dar,
Is there any way to adapt standard OS/Mag/TT/etc. mufflers and pipes to the MVVS? I would buy one in an instant if I could use my preexisting pipes and mufflers with one.
Thanks loads Dar. Your input is always right on the money and much appreciated,
Ernie
Is there any way to adapt standard OS/Mag/TT/etc. mufflers and pipes to the MVVS? I would buy one in an instant if I could use my preexisting pipes and mufflers with one.
Thanks loads Dar. Your input is always right on the money and much appreciated,
Ernie
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From: CamborneCornwall, UNITED KINGDOM
ummm drill out the muller bolts if they dont go all the way into the muffler. ie as most tuned pipe headders bolts are left out in the wind.
did that make sence?
did that make sence?
#40
FWIW, I'm using a R.E. header originally made for the YS .45 on my MVVS .49. All I had to do was elongate the holes a little. The TT/Mag/O.S. are a lot farther apart.
#41
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Ernie,
Any seperate (not one-piece) .40-.53 tuned pipe, or tuned silencer, is adaptable to an MVVS .40-.49 engine.
All you need is the right header that will fit an MVVS engine.
This header is available from MVVS, with a gasket and bolts, seperately from their proprietary tuned silencer unit.
It uses a standard 5/8" silicone coupler.
Like all such setups, to get maximum performance, this header may need to be cut.
Any seperate (not one-piece) .40-.53 tuned pipe, or tuned silencer, is adaptable to an MVVS .40-.49 engine.
All you need is the right header that will fit an MVVS engine.
This header is available from MVVS, with a gasket and bolts, seperately from their proprietary tuned silencer unit.
It uses a standard 5/8" silicone coupler.
Like all such setups, to get maximum performance, this header may need to be cut.




