Gaskets
#1
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Gaskets
Wondering if anybody has any success in making there own gaskets? More specifically... crankcase gaskets.
Just seems to me like paying $6.00 for a gasket set is crazy!
Thanks,
Jeff
Just seems to me like paying $6.00 for a gasket set is crazy!
Thanks,
Jeff
#2
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That is a really good question! The joint that bothers me most is muffler to exhaust manifold. The best advice I have found so far is from Bisson Custom Mufflers, who recommend Permatex Ultrathrust Copper, which you will find in a tube at your auto parts store. I am still experimenting with that plus the usual cut-outs from aluminum can stock, green fiberboard from LHS, hi-temp RTV. I hate the black oil all over the inside of my engine compartment. I'd really like to hear from anyone who has nailed down a fix for this.
BTW, I hope you're all using lockwashers on your muffler screws, along with Loctite on the threads. At least my mufflers don't fall off anymore.
BTW, I hope you're all using lockwashers on your muffler screws, along with Loctite on the threads. At least my mufflers don't fall off anymore.
#3
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For the exhaust manifold, I use an index card. The engines that I've purchased didn't include one, so I tried this and it seemed to work fairly well. I never tried Al can material. This would be much more durable. Next I'm going to try the automotive gasket material.
--Rick
--Rick
#4
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Gasket material is relatively cheap, and you can cut out two gaskets to use if one does not seal well. You will still have a lot of material left over for the next one you may need
#5
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Give both surfaces a swipe with a fine wide file. stuff a piece of kleenex in the ports to keep cuttings out,and bolt it together. Any gasket will be eaten out from engine vibration. A gasket is just a band-aid for a poor fit.
#6
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Doing it the hard way
Last year I needed gaskets for a few engines too. I went to the sheet gasket dealer and got several thin thicknesses. All the outlines were drawn up in Autocad and I then had Bob Holman cut me up a ca-boodle of the little circles with bolt holes. Net cost was about $3 for more gaskets than I can use. The guys in the old automotive parts replacement bussinesses have been doing this for years.
REAL IMPORTANT to determine gasket material first. Some of the paper varietys need a soaking before placing.
Wm.
REAL IMPORTANT to determine gasket material first. Some of the paper varietys need a soaking before placing.
Wm.
#7
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Try this!
Smear a thin coat of high temp silicon on both sides of a piece of coffee filter paper, let dry before cutting out your gasket.
Material is thin enough for most model engine usage and costs virtually nothing.
Works for me.
Smear a thin coat of high temp silicon on both sides of a piece of coffee filter paper, let dry before cutting out your gasket.
Material is thin enough for most model engine usage and costs virtually nothing.
Works for me.
#9
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From my experience the best way to loose a muffler is to install a muffler gasket. I do not like to use loctite but the best place to use it is on the muffler screws.
To keep the muffler from leaking and getting the black goop all over the inside of your engine compartment is is too ocassionally mill the muffler surfaces. this also means the engine mating surfaces. two or three thousands is usually all it takes. Look at most automobiles. they have mill fit exhaust systems and they do not leak. When gaskets were used on autos many of the exhaust manifold would get broken bolt holes tabs. now they do not. If the engine is used regularly through the year the surfaces may need to be machined 1 time each year. I have my own mill that. makes it easy for me.
for Crank case gaskets. Put the surface on a scanner. scan and print out 1 to 1. What type of gasket material? very thin. I have even used vellum drawing paper.
contact glue (# 77) the gasket material. to the image on the scanned printout. Cut the gasket out with an xacto knife. To remove the pattern from the gasket put a little acetone on them and the contact glue will loosen and the pattern will come free. Or just leave the two pieces glued together. Why bother separate them.
I often machine the muffler mating surfaces for guys in our club.
I charge $5.00 per surface. That is $10.00 to keep the black goop out of your engine campartment. remember if the muffler fit is not tight you can loose muffler pressure to the tank.
Happy Muffling
I almost forgot. Use a leather punch to cut out the screw holes in the gasket.
To keep the muffler from leaking and getting the black goop all over the inside of your engine compartment is is too ocassionally mill the muffler surfaces. this also means the engine mating surfaces. two or three thousands is usually all it takes. Look at most automobiles. they have mill fit exhaust systems and they do not leak. When gaskets were used on autos many of the exhaust manifold would get broken bolt holes tabs. now they do not. If the engine is used regularly through the year the surfaces may need to be machined 1 time each year. I have my own mill that. makes it easy for me.
for Crank case gaskets. Put the surface on a scanner. scan and print out 1 to 1. What type of gasket material? very thin. I have even used vellum drawing paper.
contact glue (# 77) the gasket material. to the image on the scanned printout. Cut the gasket out with an xacto knife. To remove the pattern from the gasket put a little acetone on them and the contact glue will loosen and the pattern will come free. Or just leave the two pieces glued together. Why bother separate them.
I often machine the muffler mating surfaces for guys in our club.
I charge $5.00 per surface. That is $10.00 to keep the black goop out of your engine campartment. remember if the muffler fit is not tight you can loose muffler pressure to the tank.
Happy Muffling
I almost forgot. Use a leather punch to cut out the screw holes in the gasket.