After run oil
10-03-2004, 06:35 PM
#51
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RE: After run oil
Yes Dave.....but not everyone is lucky enough to live in that wonderful California climate where there are no humid days and you have wonderful weather year round...
Dave
Dave
ORIGINAL: Flyboy Dave
OK, everyone has their own methods of maintaining their engines. I'll
smile and nod when I see a Fella putting a few drops of oil into his carb,
then hand flipping the prop a few times to "distribute the oil". There is a
small chance that some of that oil could find it's way onto a bearing
surface somehow....or perhaps find it's way up through the crankcase
and splash a drop on the cylinder wall....but I doubt it.
But, I wouldn't discourage a person from using an after-run oil....however,
I have never used an after-run oil myself. I do use an elixir of 50/50
kerosene and Marvel as a rinse....before storage of an engine. This is done
by pouring several ozs. into the exhaust port, with the piston down, and
flooding the crankcase.
I do not run my engines dry at the end of the day, rather I suck the remaining
fuel in the fuel line and carb into the engine....after the plane has been de-fueled.
In 35 years of running the aero-model engines I have never had to replace
a bearing due to rust. My bearings usually last in the range of 12-15 years.
The only bearings I have had to replace.are the ones in used engines that I
have acquired.
Just lucky ?....I think not.
I've been using the same oil mixture for about 25 or more years.
2/3 Klotz....and 1/3 castor as a standard. Sometimes I will put in more castor
for a new Rossi, or break-in of a new four stroke, but that is the exception. I
am thinking that the rust (corrosion) fighting additives in the Klotz, and the
natural coating of the castor....has teamed up....and afforded my bearings an
exceptional long lifespan.
I won't be changing my oils....any time soon.
FBD.
OK, everyone has their own methods of maintaining their engines. I'll
smile and nod when I see a Fella putting a few drops of oil into his carb,
then hand flipping the prop a few times to "distribute the oil". There is a
small chance that some of that oil could find it's way onto a bearing
surface somehow....or perhaps find it's way up through the crankcase
and splash a drop on the cylinder wall....but I doubt it.
But, I wouldn't discourage a person from using an after-run oil....however,
I have never used an after-run oil myself. I do use an elixir of 50/50
kerosene and Marvel as a rinse....before storage of an engine. This is done
by pouring several ozs. into the exhaust port, with the piston down, and
flooding the crankcase.
I do not run my engines dry at the end of the day, rather I suck the remaining
fuel in the fuel line and carb into the engine....after the plane has been de-fueled.
In 35 years of running the aero-model engines I have never had to replace
a bearing due to rust. My bearings usually last in the range of 12-15 years.
The only bearings I have had to replace.are the ones in used engines that I
have acquired.
Just lucky ?....I think not.
I've been using the same oil mixture for about 25 or more years.
2/3 Klotz....and 1/3 castor as a standard. Sometimes I will put in more castor
for a new Rossi, or break-in of a new four stroke, but that is the exception. I
am thinking that the rust (corrosion) fighting additives in the Klotz, and the
natural coating of the castor....has teamed up....and afforded my bearings an
exceptional long lifespan.
I won't be changing my oils....any time soon.
FBD.
10-03-2004, 07:28 PM
#52
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RE: After run oil
ACtually here in the summer we can get up to 60% humidity. August can suck here as much as it does in Florida - well - not quite as much - it doesn't end up raining here every afternoon.
10-03-2004, 10:33 PM
#53
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RE: After run oil
I have been using this oil,Prather after run oil , long time for all my engines
including YS 4 stroke. Is this oil no problem for YS regulators?
As of now, my YS's seem to be OK, though.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDR80&P=0
Tsutomu Mabuchi
including YS 4 stroke. Is this oil no problem for YS regulators?
As of now, my YS's seem to be OK, though.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDR80&P=0
Tsutomu Mabuchi
10-03-2004, 11:27 PM
#54
RE: After run oil
I have lived in Mytle Beach, SC; Miami, FL; and Georgia. Many of these climates has a lot of 100% humidity. Been modling since the late 60's and R/C since the mid 70's and have never had a rusted bearing except for a set left in a parts bin. Don't think I have ever heard of a bearing rusting until synthetic oil hit was used. And about the same time people started pouring oil in their engines. I think the secret is to use plenty of castor oil, that varnish protects the engine from rust.
10-04-2004, 06:06 PM
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RE: After run oil
A couple of comments:
(1)60% humidity qualifies as bone dry in my vicinity.
(2) While most of my experience with WD-40, which I at one time purchased by the gallon, is confined to guns and farm equipment I would say it makes a quite acceptable solvent for removing oily crud (engineering term[
and as a moisture displacer, it does not work well as a lubricant or as a long-term rust preventative.
(3) Sport-Pilot is correct- Castor is the miracle fuel ingredient for rust prevention (among other things). Rust was unheard of in the days of all castor fuels.
jess
(1)60% humidity qualifies as bone dry in my vicinity.
(2) While most of my experience with WD-40, which I at one time purchased by the gallon, is confined to guns and farm equipment I would say it makes a quite acceptable solvent for removing oily crud (engineering term[
and as a moisture displacer, it does not work well as a lubricant or as a long-term rust preventative.(3) Sport-Pilot is correct- Castor is the miracle fuel ingredient for rust prevention (among other things). Rust was unheard of in the days of all castor fuels.
jess
10-04-2004, 06:17 PM
#56
RE: After run oil
After Run oil for me is a shot of Jack Daniels but - for the engine ---running glow fuel- I pour the sucker full of automatic transmission oil (it is simply a thin non foaming oil) then pour the oil out. then stick it on the shelf -
10-05-2004, 08:52 AM
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RE: After run oil
This is certainly an interesting thread. As a newcomer to the RC sport, I certainly want to do things the right way in order to protect my current (and future!) investments into this hobby. I get the feeling that there lots of "right" after run oils to use, and possibly the only wrong thing is to not use any after run oil at all. Well, as a newcomer, I'd like to know exactly how I should prep my engine for storage (whether it be for a week, a month, or for a year).
Vingemutteren posted the following a few posts back...would this be a good procedure to follow? If so, how do I "pour/squish" after run oil into the engine? And more importantly, how much oil do I use?
Forgive me if this isn't the place to post this question. If it isn't, just let me know and I'll take it somewhere else.
Thanks!
Vingemutteren posted the following a few posts back...would this be a good procedure to follow? If so, how do I "pour/squish" after run oil into the engine? And more importantly, how much oil do I use?
ORIGINAL: Vingemutteren
Correct me on this one:
1. last time you use the engine for the day, warm it up an pull off the fuel line and let it run dry.
2. Pour/squish after run oil inn to the engine.
3. turn the engine over several times.
4. Empty the fuel tank.
5. reconnect the fuel line to the engine.
If you get a rusty bearing after doing this I should like to see it, if you don`t run the engine with a non balanced prop you Will have the bearings for many many years to come.
Correct me on this one:
1. last time you use the engine for the day, warm it up an pull off the fuel line and let it run dry.
2. Pour/squish after run oil inn to the engine.
3. turn the engine over several times.
4. Empty the fuel tank.
5. reconnect the fuel line to the engine.
If you get a rusty bearing after doing this I should like to see it, if you don`t run the engine with a non balanced prop you Will have the bearings for many many years to come.
Thanks!
10-05-2004, 09:00 AM
#58
RE: After run oil
IMO flooding the engine with raw fuel that contains castor oil is better than using after run oil. But for long term storage I will take the back plate off and pour any remaing fuel or oil out and then liberally lube with 3 in 1 or gun oil.
10-07-2004, 02:06 AM
#59
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RE: After run oil
Prather lately wrote me avoid using their oil for YS
engines. It contains petroleum.
Thanks for their sincere reply.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
engines. It contains petroleum.
Thanks for their sincere reply.
Tsutomu Mabuchi
10-07-2004, 10:53 AM
#60
Senior Member
RE: After run oil
Rubberduck, I think to squish in the oil just means to put plenty in, a few drops won't do. If you are using a 4 stroke, it is more difficult as you must put at least a teaspoon full into the breather tube. To do that, you need to put a piece of fuel line or similar tube over the nipple and force it in with a squeeze bottle or something similar. You may have to turn the prop over as you do this to suck in the oil as the piston travels toward top dead center. Caution, as the piston starts back down it will blow the oil back out unless you have the nipple at the highest elevation (engine upside down relative to gravity). On a 2 stroke, you can just pour it down the carb as you turn the engine over and then squirt a bit into the exhaust. I have to disagree on the advice to use 3 in 1 oil or gun oil. Both of these are much to thin and do not do a good job, even regular motor oil would be better.
10-07-2004, 10:41 PM
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RE: After run oil
I don't think you can go wrong with Rislone, ATF or air tool oil. I am sure many others are fine, but these have always worked for me. The Break Free line of gun lubricants now includes a "Collector" product for long term storage which should work for engines. Birchwood Casey makes a product called "Silicon Sheath" which I have used successfully on tools and guns, but have not tried in engines.
jess
jess
10-07-2004, 11:21 PM
#62
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RE: After run oil
After reading most of these posts I thought of something....
For long term storage (or any storage, for that matter), where moisture is an issue, what about using WD-40 as an "intermediate" treatment to displace the water and allow the oil (whatever type) to contatct the metal on a molecular level. Granted, there may be some thinning of the oil. I still think it would be effective......although it adds 1 more step.
Ready.............GO!
Takeoffs are optional, landings mandatory.
For long term storage (or any storage, for that matter), where moisture is an issue, what about using WD-40 as an "intermediate" treatment to displace the water and allow the oil (whatever type) to contatct the metal on a molecular level. Granted, there may be some thinning of the oil. I still think it would be effective......although it adds 1 more step.
Ready.............GO!
Takeoffs are optional, landings mandatory.
10-08-2004, 09:50 AM
#63
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RE: After run oil
Guys,
I raced boats for 15 years. I have run fuel up 70% nitro. Nitro is an oxidizer and is the bearings worst enemy. It will rust a bearing overnight in some cases. The bearings second worst enemy is water, alcohol attracts water.
A very experinced and accomplished boater gave me this recipe a few years ago and if you use it on a regular basis you will have zero problems. The after run is a 2:1:1 mixture of WD40, Rislone, and castor oil. After you're done running your motor, pinch off the fuel line and fire it up until the motor dies. That will burn off any fuel left in the motor. Next remove the plug and pump the after run oil liberally into the carb and turn the motor over several times. Flip the motor over and pump the after run out of the plug hole. This draws any nitro and water that are left in the motor out. Then pump a few squirts of after run in the motor and replace the plug.
WD40 is a water dispersant. It will help pull the water out of the motor, but you need to flush the motor at least once before you put it away.
Chris
I raced boats for 15 years. I have run fuel up 70% nitro. Nitro is an oxidizer and is the bearings worst enemy. It will rust a bearing overnight in some cases. The bearings second worst enemy is water, alcohol attracts water.
A very experinced and accomplished boater gave me this recipe a few years ago and if you use it on a regular basis you will have zero problems. The after run is a 2:1:1 mixture of WD40, Rislone, and castor oil. After you're done running your motor, pinch off the fuel line and fire it up until the motor dies. That will burn off any fuel left in the motor. Next remove the plug and pump the after run oil liberally into the carb and turn the motor over several times. Flip the motor over and pump the after run out of the plug hole. This draws any nitro and water that are left in the motor out. Then pump a few squirts of after run in the motor and replace the plug.
WD40 is a water dispersant. It will help pull the water out of the motor, but you need to flush the motor at least once before you put it away.
Chris
10-09-2004, 01:34 AM
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RE: After run oil
Perhaps I overlooked this in the thread, but Nitro Methane leves a nitric acid residue when involved in combustion. You absolutely need to neutralize that residue. I have been known to use this procedure when putting an engine in long time storage. I disassemble the engine, flush all parts with hot water and detergent., oven dry, assemble and flood the engine with after run oil. I then seal the engine in a plastic bag. I have a K&B 21 Marine engine which sat in the closet for 20 years. I took it to the lake and it fired and ran with no adjustments. Rus as good as it ever did. You don't need to go to this extreme for normal use, but you do need to put something in the engine after running. I've seen too many rust buckets returned to me that were simply shut down with the throttle and then put away. A couple of months of that can ruin an engine.
Jim
Jim
10-10-2004, 10:44 PM
#65
RE: After run oil
Nitro is an oxidizer and is the bearings worst enemy. It will rust a bearing overnight in some cases.
10-10-2004, 10:50 PM
#66
RE: After run oil
Perhaps I overlooked this in the thread, but Nitro Methane leves a nitric acid residue when involved in combustion.
