After run oil
#3
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RE: After run oil
Hi,
I use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), because I heard its quite good . Seems to work, and handy to lubricate engine parts when disassembling them.
Stefan
I use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), because I heard its quite good . Seems to work, and handy to lubricate engine parts when disassembling them.
Stefan
#4
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RE: After run oil
Marvel Mystery Oil., marvel Air Tool oil, Mobil 1, ATF, etc, etc, etc.
The important thing isn't so much the "brand" of oil but rather the fact that you are USING
ARO in your motor. Lots of it. Two or three drops is next to pointless. I load the motor up big time
whether I'm storing the motor overnight...or a year.
Oil is dirt cheap compared to motors.
'Race
The important thing isn't so much the "brand" of oil but rather the fact that you are USING
ARO in your motor. Lots of it. Two or three drops is next to pointless. I load the motor up big time
whether I'm storing the motor overnight...or a year.
Oil is dirt cheap compared to motors.
'Race
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RE: After run oil
I use a 50/50 mix of Marvel Air Tool oil and Good quality synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid. This makes two courts and lasts forever and costs $10 but it will work the best. The air tool oil has a degumming product in it that helps the oil stay the way it is. This mix has worked great for me and when I start the engine it's as if there was no after-run in it because of the Air tool oil dissolves into the fuel. If you do dump alot of after-run into the engine the day before and go flying you should let the engine run a little before adjusting it or it will seem too lean for a few minutes. I put alot in when I'm storing the engine.
Don't use after-run oils that have a addatives that break down rust. If there's any corrosion in the engine it will send it straight into the cylinder and scratch it. it's better to deal with corrosion when a engine is dissasembled by replacing the parts that are corroded. Get back to me if you find the Marvel Air Tool oil or synthetic ATF have these addatives.
Don't use after-run oils that have a addatives that break down rust. If there's any corrosion in the engine it will send it straight into the cylinder and scratch it. it's better to deal with corrosion when a engine is dissasembled by replacing the parts that are corroded. Get back to me if you find the Marvel Air Tool oil or synthetic ATF have these addatives.
#9
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RE: After run oil
Any air tool oil, most ATF and Rislone are all good. Marvel Mystry oil is better than nothing but not much, however Marvel Mystry Air tool oil is good. Do NOT use WD40. Gun oil and sewing machine oil are poor choices but better than nothing. Probably the best bet for the buck is Rislone, inexpensive and very good.
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RE: After run oil
What kind of oil is Rislone and where do you get it I have never heard of it. The DW40 is water based and will evaperate and leave nothing but as allways it's still good for frozen screws etc, as a after-run oil it will break loose the runst inside the engine and send it to the cylinder. What makes Rislone better than the Marvel Air Tool oil. The Marvel costs around $7 per court. At that price it should be the best thing going.
#11
RE: After run oil
"Corrosion X" is great. I use it on business aviation aircraft/helicopters. "ACF 50" is similar if not the same (Both meet a military spec. for corrosion prevention.) Corrosion X is available at Sheldon's Hobbies for around $14 or so. It's a large aersosol can (with a snorkel that I feed into a short length of fuel tubing into my 4-stroke's crank case vent), and the can'll last a long time. Don't use it on YS engines 'cause it's pertroeum based.
#12
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RE: After run oil
What's the difference with YS engines. I just got a YS 110FZ four stroke, is the Marvel air tool oil mixed with ATF going to hurt the YS. Why would patroliam based oil hurt the YS.
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RE: After run oil
ORIGINAL: Basil Yousif
Why would patroliam based oil hurt the YS.
Why would patroliam based oil hurt the YS.
You will be rebuilding the fuel pressure regulator on your engine if you use the wrong oil.
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RE: After run oil
hi nicadflyer
as an after run oil I for a long time have used successfully a half and half mixture of marvel mystery oil and automatic transmission fluid.
good luck...happy flyer
pt19 flyer
as an after run oil I for a long time have used successfully a half and half mixture of marvel mystery oil and automatic transmission fluid.
good luck...happy flyer
pt19 flyer
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RE: After run oil
Any fuel experts out there to answer the mystery of the fuel cans saying that no after-run oil is needed. I have read that on some of the fuel cans. Is it true or bull. As far as my YS engine I do add 4 oz of Sig castor oil to a 18% synth castor mix glow fuel to raise the oil level to 20%. That seems to be the best way to run the YS without spending $30 an a gallon of 20/20.
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RE: After run oil
As for the notation on the Morgans fuel jug, how about you try to send your engine in to Morgan fuels and tell them you suffered a rusty bearing with their fuel and didn't use after run as per their instructions. Lets see how fast they step up to replace the engine or even the bearing.
This argument has been beat to death here on this forum and not one person can demonstrate how using after run is anything but beneficial, except for the YS pumps. The argument against it is always the user can't be bothered, does not have the time or sees it as an inconvenience.
If you want cheap insurance against corrosion in your engines use any of the ones mentioned. My favorite is synthetic transmission fluid or Mobil 1 synthetic and it takes less than a minute to put a good squirt or two in the engine.
I can almost promise you will get a few of the "its a waste of my time" posts following this one.
This argument has been beat to death here on this forum and not one person can demonstrate how using after run is anything but beneficial, except for the YS pumps. The argument against it is always the user can't be bothered, does not have the time or sees it as an inconvenience.
If you want cheap insurance against corrosion in your engines use any of the ones mentioned. My favorite is synthetic transmission fluid or Mobil 1 synthetic and it takes less than a minute to put a good squirt or two in the engine.
I can almost promise you will get a few of the "its a waste of my time" posts following this one.
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RE: After run oil
[What kind of oil is Rislone and where do you get it I have never heard of it.]
Rislone is used as an additve to motor oil. It is blue and comes in a yellow container. I recently purchased some at Wallmart. It was recommended as an after run oil for many years by the late George Aldrich.
Rislone is used as an additve to motor oil. It is blue and comes in a yellow container. I recently purchased some at Wallmart. It was recommended as an after run oil for many years by the late George Aldrich.
#23
RE: After run oil
This argument has been beat to death here on this forum and not one person can demonstrate how using after run is anything but beneficial, except for the YS pumps.
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RE: After run oil
I disagree sport pilot.
Marvel air tool oil, synthetic ATF and many of the others mentioned, displace moisture, they do not trap it against metal surfaces.
Now don't misunderstand what said in my prior post, I totally believe in castor oil as a lubricant. I run Morgan's Omega blend in almost all of my engines with rare exception. But I also know that if I don't use after run oil, I usually end up buying bearings. Several years ago I had a new Webra .60 that I mounted on my test stand and ran 3 tanks (12 oz.) through it to break it in. When I was finished I ran the engine dry and then removed it from the stand and sat it in my shop so I could take measurements from it for the new plane it was going in. My job got in the way so it was about two weeks before I got back to it. When I went to turn it over, it felt a little rough so I pulled the back plate and found the rear bearing completely covered in rust, in just two weeks! The fuel I ran through it was Omega 5%, a castor blend. I have used after run in my engines for more than 25 years and when I use it I don't buy bearings. When I am absent minded and forget, like in this case, I always end up forking out hard earned cash.
Marvel air tool oil, synthetic ATF and many of the others mentioned, displace moisture, they do not trap it against metal surfaces.
Now don't misunderstand what said in my prior post, I totally believe in castor oil as a lubricant. I run Morgan's Omega blend in almost all of my engines with rare exception. But I also know that if I don't use after run oil, I usually end up buying bearings. Several years ago I had a new Webra .60 that I mounted on my test stand and ran 3 tanks (12 oz.) through it to break it in. When I was finished I ran the engine dry and then removed it from the stand and sat it in my shop so I could take measurements from it for the new plane it was going in. My job got in the way so it was about two weeks before I got back to it. When I went to turn it over, it felt a little rough so I pulled the back plate and found the rear bearing completely covered in rust, in just two weeks! The fuel I ran through it was Omega 5%, a castor blend. I have used after run in my engines for more than 25 years and when I use it I don't buy bearings. When I am absent minded and forget, like in this case, I always end up forking out hard earned cash.