Can someone please tell me what a mousse can muffler is ? I have run across the term a few times but never seen one.

Here ya go! Increased my RPM's about 1200 revs!

Get a copy of this months RC Report Mag. Shows how to make one.
Good luck, red

Here is a [link=http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/ConstGuide/MCM.html]construction article[/link].

the "other" andrew

or, if you are lazy you can buy one, http://www.flyingzhobbies.com/spec.html

If you make your own, instead of using JB weld that I found will crack eventually, use the new aluminum welding rods. You heat the surface to be welded with a propane torch, brush the surface with a stainless steel brush, and apply the rod. If hot enough, it will melt the rod and "weld" the parts together. The tricky part is to get the mating surfaces hot enough to melt and at the same time not melting them by getting them too hot.

I have melted and ruined header pipes this way and trying to weld thin aluminum cans will take some practice. When done right, the rod will flow like solder, but a lot stronger and will become solid when it cools down.

If you decide to use this method, make sure the can you are welding is COMPLETELY DEVOID of any hair spray residue or volatile fumes. If you dont, you'll get a bang out of it.

I have used this matterial to fix off-center holes I messed up when making exhaust systems for my Zenoah powered rc boats. Fill the hole, re-drill and tap for threads and is good as the original aluminum material.

All:

Two sources for aluminum soldering materials:

http://www.alumaloy.net/
http://durafix.com/

Bill.

magyarbacsi, which type rod are you using??????

Thanks,

Ernie

Ernie, you would have to ask. Not sure. I bought these years ago from a tool catalog, Northern, Harborfreight? Cant remember. I make a lot of my own hardware for my rc boats and the engines like Zenoah marine do run in the rpms similar, if not more, than the planes. I found that heat and vibration will overcome JB weld's strength. So far the aluminum rods, if done right, do a lot better job holding the parts together.

I sometimes just use a clean sand paper instead of the brush, and find that as long as you rough up the surface slightly, and CLEAN it well, the rod flows like water on the joints.

magyarbacsi, very encouraging info once again. So far, my limited trials have not been up to standard like yours or Bills. I will get back to it with some more practice though. I think what I have been missing is a good stainless brush or better cleaning of the surface.

Does your unkown brand of rod need flux?? Seems that some do and some don't? I have been using the Bernzmatic rod from Home Depot so far....

Ernie

Ernie:

I've used the Alumaloy, it is every bit as easy as acid core soft solder to use. Much easier than the Bernzomatic solder.

I've not tried the Durafix, it looks to be just about the same as the Alumaloy. Drawback? They're both more expensive than the Bernzo.

Bill.

>>EDIT: Magyar's is probably Alumaloy, they've been arouond a lot longer than Durafix. wr.

I too use Alumiweld from Harbor Freight ($8 and change for about a dozen rods). I use a wire wheel in my grinder to clean the work. For light stuff propane is ok, but mostly I use Mapp gas. I find it keeps the working puddle more contained because it doesn't take as long as propane to get to right temp. Rod has a high tensile strenght, but doesn't like vibration. I try to avoid butt joints, favoring lap type if possible. Still my advice is to practice a few times, 'till you get the hang of it.
Good luck, red

>>> I too use Alumiweld from Harbor Freight ($8 and change for about a dozen rods)......

Coralcape, thanks for the information. I might spring for some of them until I decide to cough up 45 bucks for a pound of the Alumaloy. And Bill, I am happy to hear that the Alumaloy IS easier to use than the Bernzmatic rods. I decided that I definitely needed "more practice" with them and haven't gotten back to it yet! Thank goodness I know that I can always go back to mixing up some JB Weld.

Coralcape, are you having to use flux with the rods from Harbor Freight?

Thanks,

Ernie

Nope, no flux.After cleaning I do what I call pre tinning. Basically I heat the work 'til it will just melt the rod and coat the parts to be joined with a very thin coat of alumiweld. When this is complete I then go back over all the joint with a fillet, flows nicely. Again I repeat alumiweld is strong but doesn't like butt joints and vibration. Overlap joined parts if possible. Sometimes I also pop rivet the overlap. Good luck, red