Hey guys I have O.S. .52 fourstroke on my Aerophibian float plane, the problem is were we float fly, there are trees on both ends of the pond, I was wanting a prop that would give me the most pull or climb out power, the reccomended props are 10X8,10X9,10.5X8,10.5X9,11X6,11X7,11X7.5,12X5,12X6 ,12.5X6 , I was wanting to know which one would give me the most bite to get out of a tight spot, topend speed doesn't matter as much, I ran a 12X7 and it does ok but I ordered a Dynathrust 12X6 to see maybe if that would help it pull off the water better, thanks,,,

I have a Four-Star 40. APC 12x6 gives unlimited vertical with the OS FS-52S on 5% nitro. I have heard that APC 13x4 or 13x4W can be used on this engine for even more thrust, but I haven't tried them myself.

I think Sandal is talking about the two stroke engine?

A 12-5 APC should let the engine rev to a good figure and give you maximum thrust with the four stroke engine? Thats what I use on my Slow Poke.

Enjoy,

Jim

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Sorry Sandal, I'm the one who made the mistake. I had just read a thread about the Magnum 52 two stroke and had Magnum on the brain. My SlowPoke does have a OS engine in it though.

Enjoy,

Jim

I might go buy a 13x4 also and try it,, any one else have any suggestions, thanks guys,,

I have liked the Master Airscrew 12x6 Scimitar prop also on a 4Star 40 which weighed slightly under 5 pounds. I also used 15% nitro fuel.

Jon, the camshaft below will give your .52 the torque and responsiveness your looking for! O.S. part # 45262050, it's the cam from the .40 car engine. The timing and duration are such that people will ask you again and again, "that's an O.S. .52?" I think my .52 benefit more from this cam than the .40 car version did!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWY82&P=7

I picked up a couple more last week for later projects!

Yeh GarySS I have a 12x6 Dynathrust, and a 12x6 Wood master Airscrew, so I might try these first<<< and MOREHP I is the cam hard to change and what does it do different just give more torque or what,,,

I doubt your engine will idle as slow as it does now if you put the new cam in the engine?

Enjoy,

Jim

Hi!
On a OS .52 fourstroke a 11x7, 12x5, 12x6 or 11,5x6 APC would be best.
Forget MA black props they do not perform good at all, scimitar model is a little better.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

In short, you will not need a tach to realize you've gained RPM on top, I think personally it idles even lower, though that may just be because mine is broken in even more now. I have run the APC 13x4 on my .52 very easily, I never did write down at what RPM. I don't know the exact differences in degrees or duration each valve is open with this cam, but comparing the two by looking at them, the car cam opens and closes the valves quicker and they are open longer, the more their open, the more fuel/air charge it'll bring in. I haven't seen one side-effect like can be seen in real V8's with big cams.

The FS-40 is rated at 0.65 hp, the car version FS-40s-c is/was rated at 0.90 horsepower, the two biggest reasons for this are the cam and carb. That's an increase of .25 hp, roughly 39%!

The .52 is rated at 0.90 hp stock, the cam change will put that into the 1.0 to 1.1 hp range and a huge value for the return at a little more than what we pay for a gallon of good fuel. For my airboat, I have LOTS of room to use the carb off the car version as well, because of the straight intake manifold, you need more room behind the engine. In my 20 years in this wonderful hobby, it's the best carb I've ever used, and makes everything I've put it on run better and super reliable. With both cam and carb 1.15+ should be cake, that's in the range of the FS-70! The only downside is more money than the cam. For some reason I'm fascinated with this FS-52 and getting the most out of it, even though there is better power plants out there. Cam, carb, lighten the piston........on and on! I've got this setup in an airboat, which benefits from a low idle cause they don't have brakes! And when I need to get outta trouble, I can crank the rudder and blip the throttle, no hiccups!

Remove the valve cover, carb, cylinder head, then pushrods and pushrod tubes, finally the cam followers. Rotate your engine to piston at top dead center, there should be a mark on your drive washer lining up with the casting of the crancase, remove the cam cover off the side, both cams are marked with a dot, that timing mark should be pointed up and just a slight bit towards the rear of the engine. With the cam followers out of the way, you can pull the cam out and put the new one in, with the mark in the same spot and piston at top dead center, put her all back together and ENJOY ! More torque, mine pulls a bolly 12x8 carbon like nobodys business, and the 13x4 as well without being too high in rpm, some day I'll dust off the tach and see what it reads. Throttle response is much improved, remember, cars and buggys require that in copius amounts!

The best prop I could recommend on a stock .52 would be the 12x6 carbon fiber bolly, desert aircraft carries them, pricey, but worth it!

I might have to consider the cam, although this weekend I put a 12X6 Master Airscrew wood on it and it pulled satisfactory, I could take off and pull at about a 55% degree climb rate that is about all I need,

Jon, if you go the cam route and run into a snag somewhere, let me know!

O.K. MoreHP I will do that, I might try this for a week or two and test some more, but I will keep you informed,